|
Fat cats have historically ordered Bordeaux -- often ponying up hundreds of dollars per bottle -- for full-bodied wines that can stand up to the aggressively meaty flavors of steak. A far less expensive option, and one that seems to be ridiculously reliable, is malbec, which is one of the grapes used to make Bordeaux blends. Though it grows almost anywhere (Europe, USA, South America, Australia), the best stuff seems to come from Argentina. You can usually spot bottles for $30 to $40 at restaurants, which means they cost about $10 to $15 in stores.
Most malbecs are dark, inky and tannic. The Michel Torino Coleccion 2005, from the Calchaqui Valley in Argentina, shows all the classic traits: It's a deep purple color with rich fruit flavors -- plum, cherry, raspberry -- some tannins, and more acidity than what you find in other malbecs.
Bodega Norton 2005, from the Mendoza region of Argentina, is another story. Its color is light for a malbec -- a red-purple hue. And it seems light, with less complexity: Tart cherry notes overwhelm the rest of the flavors, except for some spiciness on the finish. If your dining companion were having something lighter than steak -- pork or chicken, for instance -- the Norton would be a good compromise. If it's an all-beef blowout, stick with the Michel Torino Coleccion.
-- James Oliver Cury
|
Michel Torino Coleccion 2005 
Bodega Norton 2005