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Fruit-flavored vodkas may be old news, but distillers have not yet crossed over into veggie-infused booze. So far, the world has not yet enjoyed the flavor of spinach vodka. But Herb's aromatic vodkas are a step in that direction, mixing in rosemary, fennel, dill and cilantro with, well, mixed results. All four bottles are made from grain (40 percent alcohol by volume) and infused with fresh herbs. They come in apothecary-style frosted bottles that will definitely stand out in your liquor cabinet (or freezer). Years ago, herb-infused bottles would have been prized for their medicinal value. These just taste good.
The fennel flavor makes the most sense. Plenty of anise-scented liqueurs (like Pernod and ouzo) and cocktails play up fennel's licorice flavors. This particular vodka has a lovely sweetness as well; it stimulates the tip of the tongue and coats the back of the throat. It finishes with a dry bracing spiciness. Dill vodka produces a completely different smell and flavor. The scent is unmistakable if you've ever had cucumber or salmon with dill. The taste, though, is not as strong; it registers more of a burn after the first few seconds and the aftertaste is oddly neutral.
Cilantro may be the least convincing adaptation of the bunch. Burrito lovers know whether they like cilantro (also known as coriander); this stuff doesn't taste natural. Something registers as chemical-like, though the peppery finish is not bad. When trying the rosemary vodka, gourmands, in particular, may get flashbacks of specific dishes -- rosemary is commonly paired with potatoes and lamb. The herb itself grows on evergreen shrubs; the strong bouquet is a little minty and a little pine-like. In a vodka, it's hard to know what goes well with it (maybe just ice). If the idea of a lamb martini sounds good to you, this would be an ideal base.
-- James Oliver Cury
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