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Dom Pérignon and Cristal may get all the shout-outs from folks who claim to know how to live large. But don't call yourself a champagne connoisseur until you've tried Perrier-Jouët. Now's an especially good time to take the plunge. The company, which has been around since 1811, recently released the latest iteration of its "prestige cuvée" (a.k.a., its best stuff). The bubbly's as elegant as the bottle is beautiful.
The 1999 Fleur de Champagne is the new vintage -- the latest year to be worthy of a dedicated bottling (not all harvests merit such individual attention). The bottle itself turns heads with the company's iconic Art Nouveau-style floral pattern of large white flowers, which engulf the type surrounded by gold outlines.
The wine itself has a typical golden champagne paleness. Tiny bubbles rise in a concentrated stream at the center of the glass while larger bubbles lazily migrate upwards along the edges. With champagne, smaller bubbles are considered better, if only because there are more and they help release the flavors.
The strong bouquet melds almonds, bread (the French like to say "brioche") and citrus. Take one sip and you'll recognize the distinctly dry brut style. This bottle has a lot of acid, too, which is refreshing and goes well with food, especially seafood. The one thing it isn't: creamy. And sometimes, that's exactly what you want.
-- James Oliver Cury
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