The Taste

In the whiskey world, scotch attracts the big spenders, bourbon lures the sweet-tooths and, somewhere along the line, rye got lost in the shuffle. Before Prohibition, rye was America's drink. Back in the late 19th century, the original (and some say tastier) Manhattan was actually made with rye, not bourbon. But who orders rye these days? Fans of Don McLean's "American Pie," maybe?

Surprise: Among cocktail aficionados, rye is making a comeback. Heaven Hill Distilleries recently released the second batch of limited edition, unfiltered straight rye: Rittenhouse 23 Year Old. And it is one of the smoothest, mellowest, most complex entrants of rye whiskey.

Still, rye is not for wusses -- it's inherently peppery, spicy, sharp and perfect for fans of a high-octane burn. And at 100 proof, this will knock your socks off. By law, the spirit is made with 51 percent rye mash, and some combination of corn and malted barley, and aged for at least two years in charred new oak barrels. The new Rittenhouse has marvelous complexity with its combination of sweetness (a rum-like caramel flavor), pepper and one of the longest finishes on record. The cocktail curious can try it in a Sazerac (with Pernod, simple syrup and bitters), an Old Fashioned (with sugar and bitters) or, of course, a Manhattan (with vermouth and bitters). There's nothing wrong with a single ice cube, either.

-- James Oliver Cury