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The jokes have been flying ever since Michelob released its new trio of "fruit-infused" beers -- Pomegranate Raspberry, Lime Cactus and Tuscan Orange Grapefruit -- which will be available through Labor Day. Beer snobs have compared the flavor to everything from Tang, Tic-Tacs, soda pop and Jolly Ranchers. Why add "flavor," some people wonder, to a drink that already tastes great? And why must the flavors be so damn fruity? A minority of lambic lovers, on the other hand, suggests that these flavors are refreshing, tasty and different -- perfect for a hot summer day.
There is no denying that these pilsner-style beers are super-light (105 calories each). The stuff retains no head and doesn't taste like beer, which is great if you don't like malts or hops, but why make it a beer then? The flavors are oddly effete: We're not talking about run-of-the-mill citrus or berries. Tuscan Orange Grapefruit sounds like a lipstick color. Lime Cactus could be TGI Friday's latest party cocktail. And Pomegranate Raspberry is a combination no manly man could ever pine for publicly.
Though the beer does not touch actual fruit during any step of the process -- "natural" flavorings are added -- it doesn't taste too artificial. It's not too sweet. The aftertaste is pleasant, not overrun by chemicals. And the carbonation level is strong -- ultra fizzy, in fact. Michelob or Chick-elob? Judge for yourself.
-- James Oliver Cury
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