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The world probably doesn't need a new lager -- especially a light, personality-free one from Central America. But Toña is not some marketing executive's dream -- it is a Nicaraguan beer that dates back to 1926. With summer coming, and a booming interest in all things Latin America, now is a fine time to introduce an old beer to a new market. In fact, Toña is the first Nicaraguan beer to be distributed widely in the United States.
Like many Mexican beers, Corona and Pacifico for example, Toña goes down easy. The bottle is easily identified from far away: It's simple, brown and heavy on the text with a gold "T." The beer pours a very light, pale yellow with tight white lacing, and a head that simmers down quickly. It would not be unfair to say that Budweiser comes to mind. The stuff is light, malty and pleasant if you like your beer thin, but with a bitter acidic finish.
Beer aficionados will likely want to try this once and move on, but party-hearty types, and proud Nicaraguans who remember the flavor of yore, just might find this fits the bill this summer.
-- James Oliver Cury
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