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Francis Ford Coppola's wines occupy an unusual place on store shelves and on restaurant menus. On the one hand, the master moviemaker is dead serious about his art. Whether he's making a great film, pasta sauce or wine, the man is deeply committed to his products; he does not merely lend his name to a bottle. On the other hand, you can't walk into a Trader Joe's without seeing one of his wines on sale, often next to the Two Buck Chuck (three bucks on the East Coast).
You are right, then, to wonder if this is one of his better ones. Well, yes and no. Francis Ford Coppola's Rosso 2005 is designed to be an "everyday wine" and not a "fancy wine," according to Coppola. It's an odd blend: 51 percent zinfandel, 29 percent syrah and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. And it costs just $11. It doesn't aim for true greatness.
For the price, however, this is a bargain. Though not especially complex, the wine is very drinkable. The nose screams "berry" -- especially blueberry and cherry. The palate registers some soft tannins at first, as well as a sweet, jammy amalgamation of fruit, including strawberries, and a hint of spice. If you're worried about finding the right bottle, look for the label with the nighttime shot of his new pyramid-like Sonoma winery (formerly Chateau Souverain) theatrically presented behind red curtains and Doric columns.
-- James Oliver Cury
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