The Shorts Story

Let's face it, walking shorts are no longer a laughing matter.

We know because we remember the summer of 1952 when the sight of a full-grown man, padding down Michigan Avenue in knee-length khaki shorts, high cotton socks and conservative sports jacket, was enough to cause chaos. Dogs growled. Women flickered their eyes heavenward and swooned. Men groaned and trembled. We didn't wear them in public again all season.

Somehow, in three short years, everything has changed. Today, even the scoutmaster of troop 814 maneuvers his pack down the main thoroughfare, instead of back alleys, keen on the fact that here--between his belly and his knees--is high fashion! Everyone who wears full-length trousers from September through the middle of May now feels the powerful urge to molt as soon as the thermometer approaches 85. Walking shorts are de rigueur. The emancipation of the American male is almost complete, for he has finally discovered that walking shorts are unbelievably comfortable hot weather fare. Some have even been known to wear them to the office.

Shorts, for men, of course, are about as "new" as the loin cloth. The remarkable thing is the way that advertising agencies have been able to build acceptance for such an item in so short a time. To most people today, the word Bermuda no longer connotes a lush piece of geography in the Atlantic Ocean, but rather a length for walking shorts averaging 11 inches at the inseam.

We feel this is good, but certainly some further facts, definitions and warnings are in order.

No doubt the recent popularity of walking shorts can be attributed to the search for casual, cool, natural clothing that has been taking place all around us. Not to be overlooked too is the current continental influence in our leisure dress, the final realization that, as in art, music, theatre, good food and wines--if not politics--sophisticated Europeans have been for many years way ahead of their more straight-laced American cousins. Thus, as more and more Americans travel abroad, they realize that a conservative tradition, as practiced in England, France and Italy, can still produce such exciting staples as sports cars, the mistress, Chateau Lafite (concluded on page 48) Shorts Story (continued from page 36)Rothschild, Gina Lollobrigida and walking shorts.

We know a fellow about 5'71/2" tall, who weighs in at 226, and thinks that walking shorts are made to order for him. He is wrong. The reasons are obvious. While it's not necessary to have legs and waistline like Bob Mathais', walking shorts do expose a lot of anatomy. We hope--sincerely--that men will look closely in the mirror before stocking up on the following items.

Although shorts for street wear are currently being thrust on us in three different lengths, 7, 9 and 11 inch in-seam, a good rule for the taller man to follow is this: keep the kneecaps open to the air; make sure the shorts come down as far as the kneecaps, and the hose come up to them. Walking shorts should never be worn with short hose. Generally, a shorter fellow should choose walking shorts with a little less length, thereby giving his legs a longer appearance. Accordingly, his high socks should come a little lower than the kneecap, furthering the illusion of height.

Concerning cut, our conservative fellow would be smart to choose his walking shorts the same way he chooses his slacks. Because we don't recommend pleats for trousers, why bother with them on shorts?

Self-belts, double-belts and no-belts are among the many new features of this season's crop, but we think you'd be wise to stay away from the continuous waistband with elasticized sides or back, and stick with a regular loop belt model, with or without back buckle strap, as you choose. A good bet is the flat woven belt that stretches with little bulk around the waist, now available in handsome rep stripes. As always, make sure your walking shorts have trim, neat lines, with no gathers, puffs, pleats, darts, folds or draws.

Fabrics recommended include good-looking lightweight grey flannel, striped madras, linen, or cotton cord in narrow stripings of blue, grey or brown. Sensible blends of dacron and cotton, wool tropical or rayon make for easy laundering and require little pressing; the same for orlon blended with these same fibers. These fabrics stay crisp and fresh for a long time, making them ideal for active as well as spectator sports in the suburb or the city.

As important as shorts are, certainly the high hose should get equal billing. Since most men's legs aren't as graciously formed as Mamie Van Doren's, a wool or cotton cable stitch, with turn-down top, should do much to improve the picture. Other favorites include colorful Argyle panels, or ribbed solid colors in black, dark brown, dark blue, grey or white. Make sure they come right up to the kneecap with a three-inch turn-down.

One classic example of the complete hot weather outfit includes a pair of black poplin walking shorts, white cable stitched hose, cordovan loafers, and a jacket of English blazer cloth, blended of wool and cotton, in black with red-and-white stripings and brass buttons. You'll need a shirt too, so make it a cool, blue pin-stripe batiste button down, and finish it off with a black knit tie.

Coming off the streets for a moment and into the swim of things, patterns for beachwear this season are, as usual, many and varied. The theory here, as in other men's apparel, seems to dwell on the dazzle--bright colors and splash--with not much good taste in evidence. As we have maintained in the past, an active market coupled with healthy advertising budgets can create many Frankensteins. We feel it's our duty to cut them down to size.

Again we face the dilemma of eastcoast vs. westcoast. Some of our friends around Malibou Beach like to wear snugly fitting trunks for the "real brief" look. If you have a good-looking navel, then by all means choose one of these jobs. For quick action, one manufacturer offers side zippers that enable the bather to get rid of this swim suit inside his trousers. Peek-a-boo sides with intricate woven grillwork are recommended for those guys who can press 247 lbs. without a grunt. We can't.

For us, boxer trunks in cotton poplin, cut much like your walking shorts, though not as long, are best for easy comfort on the beach, whether you prefer sunning or swimming. Fabrics should be chosen with an eye toward their dry-ability as well as good looks, and in both departments the man-made synthetics hold up well. Dacron, orlon or nylon offer quick drying and trim appearance, and you should choose them in solid colors or rich, interesting tartan plaids, loose-fitting for comfort with elastic waist so they'll stay with you.