In the Swim

"Vanity," the man says somewhere in Ecclesiastes, "all is vanity." And there are few occasions when the vanity of the muscled male is more rampantly displayed than on the beach or beside the pool. We have nothing against vanity -- in fact, it's one of the few things that separates the poets from the peasants -- but before a guy goes prancing like a stallion, he needs something to be vain about. Unhappily, not all of us have.

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That explains, at least in part, the trend toward the tailored swim suit during the past few summers--a truly American innovation in the fashion scene. Boxer shorts, so popular in previous seasons, feature elasticized waist-bands that pinch the torso at mid point, then flow freely at the hips. This style is meant to flatter the fuller figure, which it does to a degree, but it also has the tendency to make the guy with a decent build look as though he were hiding a beer bulge. You can't have everything.

The 1956 crop of swimsuits can be trimmed to four major styles: boxer, tailored, skin divers and form fits. In the order listed, each becomes more closely molded to the body and more briefly cut, both in rise at the waist and length of the leg. To a point, each is styled for a different type of figure or beach activity.

The Boxer -- fits high at the natural waistline, measures about 13--15 inches in length at the outside seam dimension. This is the conservative suit most flattering to the fellow who doesn't care to turn purple in the face in the attempt to disguise generous proportions. Semi-boxers are an even better bet for this gent: they feature overlapping, tailored waist treatment in front with half-elastic band in back.

The Tailored Trunk -- has the elegant look of custom tailoring, with zipper fly front, overlapping waist band, with or without a short center panel of elastic in the back, is sometimes shown with adjustable side tabs reminiscent of Ivy League trousers. These suits are generally cut to fit just below the natural waistline; tight cut at the legs, often notched for easy movement as well as style; 10--13 inches at outer seam.

Skin Diver -- slick fitting trunk, cut well below the waist, that is popular with the slender, aqualunged man. Fits flat across the stomach with side zipper closures and usually finished with the "California" waist: fabric full cut to the top of the suit, no band. One of the best looking models for stalking cuttle-fish: a cotton reversible, solid color on one side, check or tartan plaid on the other, 8 to 10 inches at outer seam -- by Jantzen.

Form Fit -- these suits hug like a Jayne Mansfield sweater, offer little resistance to water, are therefore well-suited to speedy swimmers. But you'd better have damned sleek proportions before slipping into this job. One suit that takes to water like a turtle is a printed cotton with a four way stretch in back and tailored front panel, overlapping button closure at the waist and zipper fly front -- by Jantzen.

Stripes and small check patterns will hit full stride this year, with some of the more noteworthy suits tailored in the traditional hairlines and varied small stripes in gray-brown-black and gold-brown-black combinations so effective in sports shirts, blazer jackets and neckties. Three-quarter inch vertical stripings in club colors will also be a standout. Jantzen this year offers a reversible skin diver model in several terrific color combinations: solid smoke-gray on one side, small checks in gray and white on the other. McGregor makes up a hand-somely matched combination of striped shorts and shirt to be worn as a set or as separates, as you wish. Accessory shirts and short beach jackets will be seen everywhere, either in fabrics to match the swimsuit or using the pattern of the suit as a trim on beach jackets or pullover shirts.

The influence of both Mexico and the Far East is being felt in several new swimsuit prints. Gantner picks up the Mexican touch with an indigenous print sparked with the vibrant, earthy colors of our southern neighbors. McGregor anchors in the Orient with a print featuring small fishing craft and assorted dry brush bric-a-brac; this is carried over to a beach jacket lined in cognac colored terry cloth, kimono cut, straight falling front panels and full sleeves. Catalina toys with the colors of India in a job with a chipper orange-red base with coin groupings in yellow and green.

You can just about say farewell to those Hollywood beach nightmares of a few years ago, the kind the guy wore just before stepping into the surf at the very end of A Star Is Born: silk ascot (in a finely figured foulard) at the throat, ankle-length terry cloth robe (tied with studied perfection), smokey glasses and a terribly black cigarette holder. Today, these tender trappings are held up more to ridicule than to envy, and rightly so. The "full dress" entry to the beach is frowned on as being far too pretentious for the sensible man.

Replacing the long, long robe is the beach jacket, a short coat done up in terry cloth that is subtle and gracious and not at all self-conscious, proving that, even at beach and pool, you can be casually correct without being "costumed."

Boxer

Tailored Trunk

Skin Diver

Form Fit