George Washington Ate Here

George Washington, we fear, did not always practice what he preached. And he was forever preaching. He formulated some rules of etiquette that included such tidbits as: "Sleep not when others speak" and "Let your countenance be pleasant, but in serious matters somewhat grave." And, for all we know, George may have practiced these preachments diligently. One preachment he obviously did not follow, however, was this: "Make no show of taking great delight in your victuals." All the evidence points to the contrary -- the good general not only took great delight in his victuals, but didn't care who knew it.

He was indeed a playfellow of cosmopolitan tastes, a classicist in the pleasures of the table, the tavern, the cellar and the ballroom. His ledger shows almost constant Dutch treating with the boys, called "clubbing" in those days. "By a club in attack at Mr. Gordan's, 2/6." "Club of a bottle of Rhenish at Mitchell's, 1/3." "To part of the club at Port Royal, I shilling." Drinking arrack and Rhine wine were only small details in his busy life of fun. He loved dances and house parties, and even during the Revolution once danced with the wife of another generation for three hours without sitting down. He frequently played billiards (at which he lost small sums) and cards (at which he lost much more munificent sums). The races at Williamsburg always excited him, and at times he raced his own horses there. He loved fox hunting, shooting and I riding, especially to nearby taverns where he could sit down to a plate of plump oysters on the half shell and a glass of ale. He relished turtle and terrapin dinners, clambakes and barbecues. He particularly enjoyed picnics. While still a young surveyor he described the pleasure of roasting "wild turkey on a split stick and eating with the aide of a pocket knife." He had a particular fondness for fish, perhaps because of his proximity to Chesapeake Bay. He could never get enough salt codfish, a main course at Sunday dinners. He kept his own seine in the Potomac from which the kitchen at Mt. Vernon was supplied with shad, sturgeon and bass. He was bewitched by the taste of honey. Normally for breakfast he would eat a few hoe cakes, honey and tea. But when he took a 10mile ride around the family estate before breakfast he would then sit down to warm corn bread spread with honey, fresh butter, grilled fish, eggs, country ham or bacon and coffee. Among other foods that he found delectable were hazel nuts and hickory nuts which he bought by the barrel. The visiting Prince de Broglie described Washington's consumption of enormous quantities of nuts for dessert and how, even after the meal was over, he kept at it, piling up the empty shells as he drank innumerable toasts of Madeira to his guests.

Toward all the pleasures of life Washington showed a certain mellow tolerance, an identification which is often found in men of genius. For instance, in writing the contract for his gardener, Philip Bater, he specified in the most matter-of-fact way that four dollars would be due Bater during the holidays "with which he may be drunk for four days and four nights." To his constituents who voted for him when he ran for the Virginia House of Burgesses, he gladly furnished a hogshead and a barrel of punch, 35 gallons of wine and 43 gallons of hard cider. He imported his own rum by the barrel from the West Indies. At Mt. Vernon he brewed ale and hard cider and wrote many recipes for both drinks.

While he loved his indulgences, he was no cranky gourmet who became unhappy if a clove or an herb were missing. On a trip to Barbados he quite willingly ate dolphin and moldy bread. He once realistically warned his adopted grandson who was leaving home for school, "If you meet with collegiate fare, it will be unmanly to complain." During the war itself he didn't hesitate to eat from a pewter mess kit when necessary. And John Adams commended him for the fine example he set for wartime drinkers. "He has banished wine from his table and entertains his friends with rum and water."

If Washington was not fiercely in love with the plump widow he married -- the richest woman in Virginia -- he surely was deeply content with her. The "great cakes" calling for 40 eggs, 4 pounds of butter, 4 pounds of sugar and "frensh" brandy, the massive roasts, the hams prepared in the special smokehouse at Mt. Vernon, the game and the beefsteak "pyes" were all scrutinized every day by Martha.

Even after his retirement from public life, Washington never stopped entertaining crowds for dinners and house parties. At one time he described his house as a "well resorted tavern." He vigorously reprimanded grafting stewards and wrote long directions telling them how to avoid waste of food in the kitchen. In the twilight of his life he was designing his own oil and vinegar cruets. He invented a large silver wine coaster for passing four bottles of wine at the table. Valley Forge was a far-off memory when Washington stood beside his big Lowestoft punch bowl, while white foamy eggnogs of brandy and rum were ladled out. And on rainy days the father of his country could be seen patiently counting the number of dried peas in a pint. "Those from Mrs. Dangerfield's 1375." "Large and early black eye pease 1186." From such computations he could tell his farmers how many peas were needed to plant a hill and an acre.

All this methodical attention to husbandry and hosting was, like virtue, its own reward. This was a mode of life he had prayed for at the end of the war when he denounced the instruments for destroying mankind and wrote of the "sons and daughters of this world employed in more pleasing and innocent amusements."

To this end Playboy now offers some choice Colonial recipes. In the museum of the Historical Society of Pennsylvania one can still read Martha Washington's family cookbook. The antiquated procedures used in her recipes are hardly practical today, but here are some of the dishes that Washington favored, adapted for modern cooking methods. All recipes are for four portions.

[recipe_title]Short Ribs of Beef, Burgundy[/recipe_title]

Among the five meat courses that were often put on the dinner table at one time, short ribs were especially popular. They have a magnificent beef flavor. They are somewhat fatty, but this is balanced by the very dry red wine sauce in which they are potted. The gravy should be skimmed of every globule of fat before the short ribs are served. Short ribs should be escorted to the table with fluffy egg noodles, French cut green string beans and a bottle of fine Pommard.

[recipe]3 lbs. short ribs of beef[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, chopped fine[/recipe]

[recipe]4 sprigs parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 carrot, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pinch thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup dry red wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bouillon cube[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon brown gravy color[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Place the short ribs in a shallow roasting pan in a hot oven preheated to 450 degrees. Keep the meat in the oven until brown, about 30 to 40 minutes, turning once during the browning. In a heavy Dutch oven or stewing pot fitted with lid, melt but do not brown the butter. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, celery, carrot, bay leaf and thyme. Sauté slowly until the onion turns deep yellow. Stir in the flour, mixing well. Add the wine, the water and the bouillon cube, mixing well. Bring the liquid to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce flame so that liquid merely simmers. Transfer the short ribs from the roasting pan to the stewing pot. Cover the pot. Simmer slowly until the meat is very tender, about 2 hours. Remove pieces of meat from pot. Skim all fat from the surface of the gravy. Strain the gravy through a fine wire strainer. Add the Worcestershire sauce and gravy color. Add salt and pepper to taste. If short ribs are not to be eaten immediately, return the meat to the gravy and reheat when ready to dine. If short ribs are to be eaten at once, pour the strained gravy over the meat on the serving dishes or platter.

[recipe_title]Purée of Pea Soup with Mushrooms[/recipe_title]

Winter appetites at Mt. Vernon were often gratified with this renowned Old World soup. This is the kind of thick soup which is always enhanced by the addition of a ham bone. If you happen to have one left over from a baked ham, or if you can inveigle your butcher into letting loose of one, by all means use it. Diced mushrooms and small ham croutons make this soup a meal in itself. Serve it from a big tureen. Pass crisp hard rolls and butter. Follow it with warm mince pie and coffee.

[recipe]1 onion, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 carrot, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon sage[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup quick-cooking dried split peas[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 quarts soup stock[/recipe]

[recipe]1 ham bone[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons bacon fat or vegetable fat[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. fresh mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ounces sliced cooked ham[/recipe]

[recipe]2 dashes Tabasco sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

(concluded on page 70)

Washington (continued from page 52)

Put the bacon fat, onion, garlic, carrot, bay leaf and sage in a soup pot. Place over a moderate flame and sauté until the onion turns yellow -- not brown. Add the peas and soup stock. (If no soup stock like chicken broth or beef broth is available, use 1-1/2 quarts of boiling water and 6 bouillon cubes instead). Add the ham bone. Bring soup to a boil. Reduce flame and simmer slowly until the peas are very soft, from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. While the soup is simmering, wash the mushrooms and cut them into 1/4-inch cubes. Put the mushrooms and butter in a separate saucepan or pot. Cook, covered, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are tender. Set aside. When the peas are tender, remove the ham bone from the soup. Force the soup through a strainer or food mill. Cut the ham into 1/4-inch squares. Combine the strained soup, mushrooms and ham. Simmer 5 minutes. Add the sugar and Tabasco sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste.

[recipe_title]Sherried Oysters[/recipe_title]

If you've ever eaten the wonderful oysters from Chincoteague, Maryland, you'll understand Washington's passion for this seafood. Sherried oysters are served in a delicate sauce that doesn't mask the provocative flavor of the bivalves. Serve sherried oysters on crisp hot toast or on a mound of white rice together with buttered fresh green peas.

[recipe]3 dozen freshly opened medium size oysters[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]Oyster liquor[/recipe]

[recipe]Milk[/recipe]

[recipe]4 scallions[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dry sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Drain the oyster liquor from the oysters. Measure 1/4 cup of the oyster liquor. Add enough milk to make 1-1/2 cups liquid. Heat over a slow flame, but do not boil. In another saucepan melt the butter. Add the oysters and sauté only until the edges of the oysters begin to curl. Remove the oysters began to curl. Remove the oysters from the pan using a slotted spoon. Don't overcook oysters or they will become tough. Stir the flour into the pan, blending well. Add the paprika. Gradually add the 1-1/2 cups liquid. Bring to a boil. Reduce flame and simmer 5 minutes. Add the sherry. Chop the scallions, using the white part and about 1 inch of the green. Add the scallions and oysters to the pan.

[recipe_title]Shad Roe with Almonds[/recipe_title]

Shad won't be in season until spring, but since shad and shad roe were great Washingtonian favorites, we'll go into the subject here. In a pinch, you can always get it in a can. Shad itself is a luscious fish but quite bony. In large city markets you can buy it boned. Shad roe are the eggs of the female shad. Shad roe are always sold in pairs, which should be separated before cooking. Serve shad roe with crisp shoestring potatoes, grilled tomatoes and a watercress salad.

[recipe]1/2 cup shelled almonds[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pair fresh shad roe[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]4 sprigs parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, celery salt, pepper[/recipe]

Pour boiling water over the almonds. Let the water remain on the almonds 5 minutes. Drain almonds. Remove skin from almonds. Place the almonds on a small shallow pan or pie plate. Sprinkle with the salad oil. Place in a preheated moderate oven at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Keep a sharp eye on the almonds for they burn quickly. Remove almonds as soon as they are toasted brown. Sprinkle with salt.

Preheat the broiler to 450 degrees. Separate each pair of shad roe into two portions. Wash well, taking care not to break the membrane. Place the roe on a shallow pan or metal pie plate. Brush with melted butter. Sprinkle with salt, celery salt and pepper. Place under the broiler flame. Broil about 5 or 6 minutes on each side or until brown. Beware of sputtering fat. Transfer the roe to a platter. Again brush with melted butter. Sprinkle with the juice of a half lemon. Cut the remaining half lemon into wedges. Garnish the roe with lemon wedges and parsley. Sprinkle the browned almonds over the roe.

[recipe_title]Black Cherry Fritters[/recipe_title]

Most Americans now know that the story of Washington and the cherry tree was a whopping fable invented by Parson Weems. Although Washington didn't chop down a cherry tree, he did plant and graft hundreds of cherry trees on his estate, and, of course, he loved the fruit in all forms. Black cherry fritters dusted with confectioners' sugar should be served at a late hour on a frosty night. Or serve them for luncheon as a main course with grilled bacon and hot maple syrup. In preparing this recipe don't use the sour pitted cherries. Use the dark sweet cherries put up in heavy syrup. If there are pits, remove them.

[recipe]1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon grated lemon rind[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup drained, canned pitted black cherries[/recipe]

Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs. Beat the yolks well and combine with the cold water, salad oil and lemon rind. Add the liquid egg mixture and the cherries to the dry ingredients. Stir only until the ingredients are blended, that is, until there is no pool of liquid in the mixing bowl and no dry flour is visible. Don't stir like a dervish or the fritters will be tough. In a separate bowl beat the egg whites until stiff. Fold the egg whites into the batter, that is, add the whites using a down-over-up stroke with the mixing spoon.

Heat a kettle of deep fat -- no more than half-full -- until the fat reaches 380 degrees. At this temperature the fat will show the first wisp of smoke. For best results use a thermostatically controlled deep fryer. Drop the batter by tablespoons into the hot fat. Don't make the fritters too big or they will be underdone in the center. (The fritters may also be fried in a shallow pan in a quarter-inch of hot vegetable fat.)

Remove the fritters from the frying kettle. Drain on absorbent paper. Sprinkle generously with confectioners' sugar just before serving. Take great delight in your victuals.

Playboy's food & drink editor