Shrimps Supreme

the life and loves of the scrumptious schizopoda

In learning the art of shrimp cookery, one should know something, first of all, about the life and loves of the slender crustacea.

Before birth the shrimp is part of a single egg mass that sometimes numbers three-quarters of a million potential shrimp. When hatched, the shrimp drifts around in shallow, slow-moving waters for several weeks until he grows to about a quarter of an inch in length. Then, feeling his oats, he sets out for deeper water and more salty adventures. Not long afterward he faces an adolescent problem. While his body grows big, his shell is inflexible, unable to expand. With a few well-timed flicks, he simply throws off his old shell and acquires a new one. His sex life is designed for the utmost variety: he is born male; as he matures, he gradually becomes female.

On the Pacific coast one may find the so-called ghost shrimp, so transparent you can see the heart beat. Blind shrimp have been taken from caves in Cuba. In the western American deserts, at rare intervals, small armored shrimp have been discovered coming to life when flash storms awakened dormant shrimp eggs in the sand.

The entire shrimp industry, in recent years, has experienced a magical prosperity. In 1945 someone discovered that if you trawl for shrimp at night while the shrimp are free swimming, you'll come up with a much bigger haul than in the daytime. New shrimp beds were discovered in deeper waters. Today, shrimp is the little tail that wags the whole Gulf of Mexico from which are taken most of the 250 million pounds of shrimp we eat annually.

For the eager young chef aching to do something different, the prime advantage of shrimp as a culinary medium is the fact that they are available in almost any conceivable form -- and in sizes from baby to jumbo -- for cooking. You can now buy shrimp raw, raw and dipped in butter or crumbs, cooked with the shells on, or cooked with both shells and vein removed. If you live in a town where fresh shrimp deliveries are not frequently made, you can buy frozen shrimp. Certainly of all the huge variety of freezer foods now available, none whatever equals the quality of frozen shrimp as compared with the fresh product. Gourmets everywhere agree that the sweet seafood flavor as well as the firm texture of the frozen shrimp compare favorably with the fresh specimens.

When you buy raw fresh shrimp, you want shellfish that are completely free of any trace of off-odor or stickiness. The shells must be firm, clinging tightly to the body of the shrimp. All shrimp are sold beheaded, since the head constitutes about 40% of the shrimp's weight.

A few years ago the only shrimp you could buy were the gray variety. Now you will find raw shrimp that are brown, greenish brown, pink and even red. Just to make the shrimp spectrum a little more bewildering, tradesmen refer to all fresh shrimp as "green shrimp." But in spite of the varieties in color, there aren't too many differences in the eating quality of different shrimp.

Normally, the bigger the shrimp, the higher the price. The men who run the shrimp boats, however, prefer the flavor of the medium size shrimp to the extra large ones. The outsize shrimp will sometimes become dry after cooking. The largest size shrimp sold commercially are called jumbo, and run about 25 or fewer to the pound. Large shrimp range from 25 to 40 to the pound. Medium shrimp are from 45 to 65 to the pound. The designation "medium" actually means small shrimp which are quite bothersome to shell.

The Chinese used to open shrimp by flaying the shells with bamboo poles. Until a few years ago, in shrimp factories where dried shrimp were being prepared, "shrimp dancers" were hired to tramp on the shells with special shoes. In your own bachelor apartment, this kind of elaborate exorcism is hardly necessary, however. You can buy a shrimp cleaner like the Zipout or the Shrimpmaster which will remove both shells and veins in one operation.

To clean shrimp by hand only a few deft movements need be learned. Simply tear the underbelly of the shell with one hand while holding the shrimp with the other hand. Peel off the top and biggest part of the shell. Then, holding the end of the shrimp tail in one hand, pull the entire shrimp free. To remove the vein, start at the fat end of the shrimp and, using the corner of your index finger or a very small skewer or small pointed knife, peel down the length of the shrimp's body until the vein is out. You can't always see the vein as a distinct color, although you can feel it and separate it from the body. Sometimes it's black, sometimes orange, pink or white. In certain sections of the South and in some of the older hostelries, shrimp are served with the vein left intact. It won't harm you. Now and then, however it may be gritty.

When you boil shrimp, you'll sometimes detect an iodine-like odor. This is completely harmless and merely indicates that the shrimp were dieting on a variety of small marine life known as Balanoglossus. To moderate the pungent odor of boiling shrimp, add some acid like lemon juice or vinegar to the pot. When boiling shrimp, some cooks like to add herbs as well as seasoning vegetables to the water. Others like shrimp boiled in beer -- a process that gives a delicate, slightly bitter tang to the shrimp flavor. Then there are shrimp fanciers who want their shrimp only boiled in plain salted water and who will tolerate no tampering with the natural shrimp flavor.

Shrimp may be boiled in or out of the shell. When boiled out of the shell, they tend to curl a little more tightly than they do when boiled in the shell.

The one hard and fast rule which applies to boiled shrimp, as well as all other seafood, is simply: Don't overcook. If you do, the shrimp will be both dry and tasteless. To boil large shrimp for such dishes as shrimp cocktail, shrimp salad or any dish calling for cooked shrimp, plunge the shrimp into rapidly boiling water to which 1 teaspoon salt per quart of water has been added. When the water comes to a second boil, allow five minutes cooking time. Remove the shrimp from the water. If the cooked shrimp are to be stored in the refrigerator, it's a good idea to return them to the cooking liquid, after it has cooled. Keep the shrimp immersed in this liquid until serving time.

Here now are Playboy's shrimp recipes for spring, each proportioned for two glowing appetites.

[recipe_title]Shrimp Marinara[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. raw shrimp, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter or olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon parsley flakes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon oregano, chopped fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons tomato paste[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Chop the tomatoes fine. Melt the butter, or heat the oil, in a saucepan. Add the shrimp. Force the garlic through a garlic press into the pan or mince the garlic very fine and add it to the pan. Sauté the shrimp over a moderate flame until they turn pink. Add the tomatoes, parsley, oregano and tomato paste. Simmer slowly 6 to 8 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

[recipe_title]Shrimp Rarebit[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/2 lb. cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 lb. sharp American cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon prepared mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dry mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon celery salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup beer[/recipe]

Melt the butter in the top part of a double boiler over simmering water. Add the shrimp and cook until they are glossy with butter and heated through, about 2 to 3 minutes. Cut the American cheese into cubes about 1/2 inch thick. Add the cheese, the prepared mustard, dry mustard, paprika, Worcestershire sauce, celery salt and beer. Cook until the cheese is completely melted. Stir well. Serve over freshly made toast.

[recipe_title]Fried Shrimp[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3/4 lb. raw shrimp, shelled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]Deep fat for frying[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg, well-beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon baking powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon grated onion[/recipe]

Cut the shrimp, splitting them about three-quarters of their length, leaving the tail end intact. Wash well. Dry on paper toweling. In a deep mixing bowl combine the beaten egg and water. Sift the flour, salt and baking powder into the bowl. Add the grated onion. Beat with a wire whisk or rotary egg beater until the batter is very smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Heat the fat to 380° or until the first wisp of smoke appears. Dip the shrimp in the batter. Place them one by one gently into the fat. Fry until light brown, turning once during frying. Drain fried shrimp on paper toweling. Sprinkle with salt. Serve with a cold sauce made by combining 1/4 cup mayonnaise with 2 tablespoons sour cream and 2 teaspoons horseradish. Or, serve with prepared cold tartar sauce.

[recipe_title]Shrimp and Avocado Cocktail[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/2 lb. cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

(continued on page 78) [recipe_title]Shrimps Supreme[/recipe_title] (continued from page 36)

[recipe]1/2 ripe avocado[/recipe]

[recipe]Lettuce leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup chili sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon horseradish[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]2 dashes Tabasco sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon finely chopped chives or scallions[/recipe]

Be sure the shrimp, avocado and chili sauce are ice cold. Cut the avocado into dice about 1/2 inch thick. Place several small lettuce leaves in the cocktail dishes. (Saucer champagne glasses are nice for service.) Place the shrimp and avocado on the lettuce. Mix together the chili sauce, horseradish, lemon, juice, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce and chives. Pour the sauce over the shrimp. Serve with a small wedge of lemon. Another pleasant variation on the shrimp cocktail theme may be made by substituting thawed frozen grapefruit segments for the avocado.

[recipe_title]Shrimpburgers[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons grated onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon dry mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Vegetable fat[/recipe]

Force the shrimp through a meat chopper, using the coarse blade. Separate the egg yolks from the whites. Beat the whites with a rotary beater until they are stiff. In a mixing bowl combine the ground shrimp, egg yolks, flour, grated onion, mustard, salt and pepper. Mix well. Fold the egg whites into the mixture. Melt the vegetable fat to a depth of a 1/4 inch in a large frying pan. When the fat is hot, drop the shrimp mixture by large spoonfuls into the pan. Sauté the burgers until golden brown on each side.

[recipe_title]Broiled Marinated Shrimp[/recipe_title]

There's an overnight marinating process involved here, but the actual cooking time, after the marinating is completed, is very brief.

[recipe]1 lb. raw shrimp, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]1 onion, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 carrot, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 piece of celery, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]3 sprigs of parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of a half-lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]Breadcrumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]

In a deep bowl combine the onion, carrot, celery, parsley, salad oil, lemon juice and shrimp. Mix well. Store overnight in the refrigerator. When ready to use, remove the shrimp from the vegetables. Preheat broiler to 500°. Sprinkle the shrimp with salt and pepper. Dip them in breadcrumbs, coating thoroughly. Place in a shallow metal pan. Sprinkle lightly with salad oil and paprika. Broil from 3 to 5 minutes on each side or until brown. Serve with tartar sauce, catsup or the sour cream dressing in the fried shrimp recipe above.

[recipe_title]Shrimp Pan Roast[/recipe_title]

Like oyster pan roast, which is not a roast at all but a form of stew, Shrimp Pan Roast follows the tradition of the old eastern oyster houses.

[recipe]1 lb. cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon celery salt[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons horseradish[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup chili sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups light sweet cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 slices of toast[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

In a heavy saucepan melt the butter. Add the shrimp. Sauté over a moderate flame for 2 minutes. Add the paprika, celery salt, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce and chili sauce. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Simmer 2 minutes longer. Add the cream, mixing well. Bring up to the boiling point, but do not boil. Let the liquid merely simmer for several minutes. Place the toast in deep soup bowls. Spoon the shrimp over the toast. Pour the liquid into the bowls. Add a dash of paprika to each portion. Serve with oyster crackers or Trenton crackers. Happy chomping.