APre-Season Check with three of Manhattan's most venerable, yet pace-setting, clothiers has uncovered a handsome quintet of new ideas in raiment for relaxation. The five jackets, you'll note, are way out in front of today's trend toward more color, more variety and a fresh incorporation of detailing that helps spell individuality. All are cut with smart, easy, straight-hanging lines that put the kibosh on exaggeration and make for solid comfort. New, too, are the fabrics employed: roughhewn, husky homespuns; soft tweeds that add the right amount of warmth without weight; shetland wools in District checks; featherweight flannels and luxurious cashmeres. Styling details include lapel piping, unusual linings and slanting pockets — called hacking pockets — borrowed from the traditional hacking coat worn by gentleman riders, all of which help point up the guy who knows how to take his ease while looking his casual best.
J. Press, above left: dramatic departure from the standard navy blazer. A shirt-light jacket of imported wool-plus-Egyptian-cotton Viyella, winered checks on dark blue, with brass buttons. The coat weighs in at a scant 19 ounces, functions felicitously on a good many occasions when a standard sport coat would be too casual or too warm. Price: $57.50.
Chipp, above: black quarter-inch silk braid pipes the front of this Cambridge gray flannel blazer that's fine as an all-purpose utility coat. Traditional patch-and-flap pockets, red and black striped lining, silver metal buttons and a hook vent in back make it doubly distinctive when coupled with a pleatless, narrowly tapered pair of slacks. Price: $45.
Chipp, below: a rugged four-button, slant-pocket jacket of homespun Irish tweed, lined with pheasant-print wool challis.
Inset: the under-collar picks up the lining and sports a button-across throat latch for the windier days of spring. Price: $85.
Lord of New York, above: elegant cashmere coat checked in black and white, with hacking, flapped side pockets and flapped breast pocket. Price: $175.00, cut to order.
J. Press, below: authentic District check in all-wool shetland. The madder-tone lining is picked up in the breast pocket, pulls out of pocket to double as handkerchief. Price: $70.
