Spring House Party

what to wear while making like a guest

Of all the Delightfully romantic Social occasions invented by man, none has the glamorous excitement of the weekend house party in the country. These delicious convocations -- big enough for the rovingest eye and intimate enough for delectable dalliance -- share the traditional glamor of an ocean cruise and offer much more, too. There's the same gaiety and conviviality of "social" rooms and lounges that one finds on shipboard, but at the weekend house party the group is smaller and hand-picked by the host instead of by anonymous travel agents; the private goings-on in staterooms are matched by the cozier room-to-room visiting; and the comparative shortness of the precious weekend hours more quickly dissipates the chillier barriers. Everyone's bent on fun, and there's a conspiratorial air of promise from the moment the guests forgather.

At this time of year -- between the snows of winter and the dog days of summer (when we'll take an air-conditioned apartment, thank you) -- the country weekend house party comes into its own. And with more and more people turning commuters or part-time country gentlemen, it has become one of the happier national institutions (international, in fact: the French now have a word for it, "weekend").

Of course, like every good social institution, le week-end has evolved its own protocol and procedures. Used to be that the city slicker could visit his country cousin and, on arrival, merely doff his suitcoat, take off his collar and roll up his sleeves. Nowadays, the niceties call for proper weekend garb. In selecting a weekend wardrobe, don't stint: better to be oversupplied with the right duds for the variety of occasions that might arise, than to make like a world wanderer who must travel light. And remember, you won't have hotel facilities for ordering a shave bomb, buying an extra shirt in the lobby, or getting a shine or a fast pressing job, so pack with care and foresight. Don't count on borrowing from your host or other guests; if you do, you may be non grata at that particular hacienda for good. Remember, too, that though you'll be assigned your own room, you'll have visitors in and out, night and day: it's only good sense to make sure your personal gear -- luggage included -- be elegant symbols of the man you are.

Your host, of course, will have told you, if you don't know from previous visits, pretty much what to expect in the way of daytime activity, and you can select from your wardrobe accordingly. If there's to be riding, golf or tennis, you'll tote your own proper equipment. And if, as is likely, there will be a spot of house-to-house visiting, or a dinner or dance at the country club, you'll want something adequately formal but not citified and stiff.

Let's assume nothing unusual is planned by your host and that if some too strenuous outdoor activity is on his agenda -- like climbing the nearest cliff (continued on page 66)House Party(continued from page 31) or helping him build a retaining wall -- you'll have the savoir-faire to finesse it without offending. On this assumption, here's the clothing and equipment to take along:

Before packing, make a check list of the little things you'll need (hankies, studs, ties, bath accessories, etc.) and lay them out on your bed. Then lay out the right number and kind of shirts, then add one for luck. Then shorts, underclothes, socks; a sweater and or weskit; and your best PJs and foulard dressing gown and leather slippers (these you'll want for a lazy breakfast, or for sharing a nightcap in your room or another guest's). Shoes next: take a leather-soled black pair for dress-up, and a rubber-soled pair for clomping about out of doors. If these have a slight tread they'll do for golf (your country host won't take kindly to golf-cleat marks on his random-width antique floor boards or modern inlaid rubber tile). At any rate, avoid those inch-thick red rubber soles affected by some college freshmen. Last, lay out your outerclothing: slacks, sports jacket, country formal wear -- about which more in a moment. Pack for preserving press and freshness, rather than for living out of your luggage. Now make a final check -- sunglasses, leather-palmed string gloves for top-down driving, windproof lighter, pipe and pouch? -- and then, and only then, get out the things you'll wear and carry en route.

Plan to travel in a suit, a comfortably relaxed job. (The ruggeder tweeds can get uncomfortably hot in a train, or in an open car on a day that's warm and sunny.) Carry a light, water-repellent topcoat. Your shoes should be leather-soled spectator sporters. By all means, wear a hat. Thus outfitted, you'll be comfortably correct in transit and, on arrival, you won't have to excuse yourself to change.

Check the gear in the drawings for the right sort of garb for a country stroll, a round of golf, or a fast trip in a sports car to the nearest split-level Colonial liquor emporium. For these occasions -- or a tour of somebody's kennels or stables -- we recommend tailored sportswear which makes you look muscular but not sweaty and which discreetly suggests ferocious action without forcing you into any. There's an art to selecting clothes of this type. They're among the best-looking in a man's wardrobe -- and can be the worst -- if you go over the line from the functional-looking to the gadgety-looking.

See the drawings, too, for tips on the proper formal attire. No matter how posh the proceedings, city formals won't do. They can, however, easily be adapted to rural shindigs: wear a matching cummerbund and tie in tartan or a harmonious color; wear a soft-collared pleated shirt -- or even a smooth-finished daytime buttondown with four-in-hand, if you sense the formality will be rather informal.

Inevitably -- and happily -- a major feature of the country weekend is the totally relaxed, conversational, delightfully unplanned drifting together of everyone as the sun goes down and the juniper hour is at hand. There's a fire in the grate, the bar is set up for self service, one by one and in couples the guests wander in from outdoors or come down the stairs from a fresh-up shower and change. Your host probably has the hi-fi playing softly; the doors may be open onto the patio; some guests just lounge and talk, others dance, others find a bay-window seat or a chaise for a quiet tête-à-tête. For this hallowed occasion, you'll wear the suit you traveled in, or your dressier slacks and jacket. The leather-soled sport shoes will do nicely for a casual dance or two. Should the spirit suddenly move the group, you might all whisk off to someone else's house party, to see how they're doing and to case the social talent; in that event, you'll still be dressed correctly.

Well, let us assume that you have been agile enough to imbibe at least as much Scotch as ozone, and that the weekend has been a success in other ways, too -- with happy renewals ahead.

Here are two gentle points of etiquette we suggest: