Long Live the Lobster

The Lobster is the playboy of the deep: he is a Night Person, an epicure, a traveler. During the daylight hours, he remains relatively stable on the ocean bed; after sundown he becomes noticeably restless, moving about with vigor and dash, despite his armor-plated bulk. He has the true gourmet's fondness for seafood, being partial to clams in the shell, and he has been especially equipped by nature to enjoy this delicacy: one claw is larger than the other -- with this he holds the clam, while with the daintier claw he extracts the tasty tidbit piece by piece. As for his traveling preferences, he finds the airplane more congenial than train or truck.

A century ago, the lobster's travels were limited. The shipping of the first live lobster from New England to Chicago back in 1842 was a major event, (continued on page 32)Long Live the Lobster(continued from page 19) something like the launching of a satellite. The crustacean got as far as Cleveland (traveling by the fastest possible overland route), where canny Clevelanders, sensing it was not long for this world, boiled it with much pomp and circumstance before whizzing it on to the Windy City.

Those were the days when lobsters were sold for a penny apiece on the Maine coast, but, not far inland, brought fabulous sums in so-called lobster palaces. New York's Broadway, where well-fixed bachelors took their blonde popsies for fancy seafood dinners, became known as lobster alley.

Today, lobsters -- freed from the shackles of the leisure class -- are available to everyone. The wonderful thing about lobsters is that while they're no longer the rare romantic food of the gaslight era, they've lost none of their gustatory enchantment whatever. Even now, in the full tide of the summer lobster season, the most jaded epicurean will tighten his bib at the sight of a bright red lobster, lifted from a steaming pot, hiding beneath its armor the firm white flesh, the soft green liver or tomalley and (if the lobster happens to be female) the heavenly crisp roe.

It's not quite fair to compare the northern lobster, with which the present thesis is concerned, and the spiny lobster taken from warm waters off California, Mexico, South Africa and Australia. The latter, sold in frozen form as rock lobster or langouste, is as different from a Maine lobster as veal is different from beef. While rock lobster is easy to handle and never too costly, it lacks the moist vivacious flavor of the cold-water titans and their incredibly sweet claw meat.

Just because two lobsters are alive doesn't by any means indicate that they're of equal quality. The very best lobster is one which is snatched right out of the "pot" (a trap of wooden lath) in which it was caught, and rushed to the boiling water. If you live in South Bend or Santa Fe, this ideal state of affairs isn't practicable. Lobsters will stay alive out of their own habitat about two weeks, provided their gills are kept moist with ice, seaweed or water. If your fish dealer happens to have a tank of freshly pumped water, and if he receives a daily supply of the restless thoroughbreds, you'll usually have no problem. If you have any doubt about the condition of a live lobster, simply lift it up and observe its tail movements. Collar the fellow on the top of the back with the pincers pointed forward, so they'll be unable to swing around and nip you. Look at its tail. If it barely shows signs of movement, the lobster is on his way to an early demise, and should be rejected. If the tail snaps underneath, you've got your hands on a lively, luscious specimen.

Generally, the color of a good live lobster is a deep charcoal brown tinged with green or blue, and showing, here and there, speckles of red or orange. Like all creatures in the sea around us, variations of this main color theme will be found. Some lobsters are black; in rare instances, cream colored. If, however, a barely moving lobster shows large patches of orange or red, it means that its life is ebbing, and it has no place on your bachelor board.

After you've lifted and held a number of live lobsters, you'll learn more or less automatically to select those that are heavy for their size. Lobsters that have just molted and replaced their shell will feel somewhat hollow and will show deep red at the joints. They're perfectly edible, but the meat isn't as succulent as that of lobsters that haven't recently thrown off their old armor plate for new. Look for lobsters with large-size claws, since the meat is so delectable. A lobster who loses a claw in battle will simply grow another one to replace it, but it takes several moltings before the new claw reaches full size again.

If you're buying a cooked live lobster, a really wonderful labor saver, again check the tail. It should be tightly curled underneath the body. Lift the tail up. If it snaps back impudently, the lobster was good before it was boiled. A cooked lobster should have a clear salty seashore fragrance, not a dank fishy smell.

Chicken lobsters weighing from 3/4 to one pound apiece -- it takes six years to attain even this baby size -- are tender and toothsome, but the amount of labor necessary to extract a fair-size portion always makes a hungry seafood man hone for something more mature. Lobsters weighing from 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 pounds are just about perfect for single portions. Real lobster-lovers will demand double or triple portions. Above two pounds, the specimens tend to be tough and dry. Normally a 1 1/4-pound lobster when cooked will yield one cup of lobster meat for such dishes as lobster cocktail or lobster newburg. Frozen cooked northern lobster meat is always more or less of a frustration. It looks luscious in the can, but the moment it thaws, all of the lobster's goodness flows out in sad little rivulets. Unlike shrimp, which can take freezing, well, northern lobsters are still best when they're alive and kicking.

Boiled Lobsters

The best way to boil lobsters is not to boil them. Steam them. Old Maine lobstermen are forever reminding you that the lobsters prepared in a clambake are not actually baked but are steamed by the seaweeds covering the hissing hot rocks. The essential point to remember is no matter how you cook a lobster, don't overcook it. A lobster contains sublime, sensuous broth, and it shouldn't be drawn or spilled in vain. In spite of the fact that seafood houses submerge lobsters in boiling water (a convenience for them), you'll do better to cook the lobsters with only enough water to fairly cover the bottom of the pot, about one cup to a gallon pot. Choose a pot into which your lobsters will fit comfortably. Be sure the pot has a tight-fitting lid. Bring the water to a boil. Place the lobsters in the pot on their backs. Cover the pot. Let the water come to a second boil, and then cook for 10 minutes for a medium-size lobster. Seven or eight minutes will do for a chicken lobster. The small amount of water will generate enough heat to cook the lobsters without washing away too much of their own natural nectar.

To serve a boiled lobster, remove it from the pot with a pair of large tongs. Wait a moment or two, so it isn't too hot to handle. Use pot-holder mitts if necessary. On a heavy cutting board lay the lobster on its back, pincers forward. Insert a heavy French knife (the heavier the better) into the belly. Split the tail in two without separating the halves, if possible. Turn the head toward you. Cut toward the head and down until the lobster is divided. Remove the small sac, sometimes called the "queen," right in back of the head. It's the lobster's stomach and usually contains some gritty matter. Remove the vein running the length of the body. Don't discard the tomalley or roe, if any. Twist off the claws by hand. With the heavy knife, crack the claws for easy dissection at the table. When you crack the claws beforehand, you eliminate the use of a nut cracker at the table, a clumsy weapon if ever there was one. Serve the lobster with a sauceboat of melted butter to which a healthy squeeze of lemon juice has been added. Lobster etiquette, certainly the least dainty but the most practical in the world, is usually observed with oversize bib napkins as well as extra hand napkins, oyster forks or the smaller-tined lobster forks, large finger bowls and a whopping salad bowl or platter for lobster shells discarded in battle.

Broiled Lobsters

Preheat the broiler at 400°. To split a live lobster for broiling, place it on its back, pincers forward. Insert a knife between the tail and body sections to cut the spinal cord. Then cut the lobster in half in the same manner described above for the boiled lobster, removing (concluded overleaf)Long Live the Lobster(continued form page 32) the sac and intestinal vein. Leave the claws intact. Brush generously with melted butter or salad oil. Sprinkle the flesh side lightly with salt, celery salt, white pepper and paprika. Place the lobster flesh side up in a shallow baking pan. Place the pan under the broiler flame. Broil five minutes. Remove the lobster from the broiler section. Cover the lobster with aluminum foil. Place in the baking section of the oven and bake eight to 10 minutes for a medium-size lobster. Allow more baking time for larger-size lobsters. Remove the claws and crack them with a heavy French knife before sending the lobster to the table. Serve with large lemon wedges and melted butter livened with lemon juice. For broiling lobster outdoors over charcoal, fasten the lobster in a wire broiler rack. Broil six to eight inches above the source of heat. The flesh side will get done very quickly. Remove the claws and broil them a minute or two longer close to the charcoal.

Either boiled or broiled lobsters are always sensational lead spots at the table. Other dishes seem pale by comparison. However, a large platter of crisp salty French fried potatoes, some sliced beefsteak tomatoes and a bowl of cole slaw with mustard dressing are quite compatible. For the finale, a cold billowy wedge of lemon chiffon pie, along with coffee.

Once you've mastered the basic skills of boiling and broiling, you'll want to go on to other specialties in the great lobster variety show. Here now are a gaggle of lobster recipes all approved by Playboy:

[recipe_title]Cold Stuffed Lobster[/recipe_title]

(Two portions)

[recipe]2 boiled lobsters, 1 1/4 lbs. each, chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup diced ripe avocado[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large fresh tomato[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons chili sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons finely chopped chives[/recipe]

Split the lobsters in two, removing the claws and saving the lobster shells. Remove sac and vein from each lobster. Remove meat from the lobsters. Cut the lobster meat into dice 1/4-inch thick. Bring a saucepan of water to a rapid boil. Lower the tomato into the water for 15 seconds. Then place it under cold running water, peel off the skin and cut out the stem end. Squeeze the tomato gently to eliminate excess juice and cut it into 1/4-inch dice. Combine lobster meat with diced avocado, diced tomato, mayonnaise, chili sauce, Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice. Mix thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Carefully spoon the lobster mixture into the lobster shells. Sprinkle with chopped chives. Serve very cold.

[recipe_title]Lobster Fra Diavolo[/recipe_title]

(Two portions)

[recipe]No. 2 can Italian-style tomatoes with tomato paste[/recipe]

[recipe]2 live lobsters, 1 1/4 lbs. each[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 ozs. brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon basil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon rosemary[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Put the tomatoes with tomato paste in a blending machine. Blend until no large pieces of tomato remain. In a medium-size saucepan, sauté the onion in olive oil until it just turns yellow, not brown. Add the brandy, light it and burn for a few seconds. Add the tomatoes, garlic powder, parsley, basil and rosemary. Simmer over a very low flame, stirring occasionally. Split the lobsters, following previous directions. Remove the tomalley and set it aside for later use. In a large pot fitted with a tight lid, bring 1 cup water to a boil. Add the split lobsters. Steam for five minutes, no longer. Remove lobsters from the pot. Pour liquid in which lobsters were steamed into the tomato mixture. Remove lobster meat from shells, cut into slices 1/2-inch thick and add to the tomato mixture. Simmer a few minutes. Slowly stir the tomalley into the saucepan. Simmer, don't boil, stirring constantly, about two minutes longer. Add salt and pepper to taste.

[recipe_title]Lobster Newburg[/recipe_title]

(Two portions)

[recipe]Meat of 2 boiled lobsters, 1 1/4 lbs. each[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]l/8 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]l/8 cup dry sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 envelope instant chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg yolks beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, white pepper[/recipe]

Cut the cooked lobster meat into slices 1/2-inch thick. In a heavy saucepan melt the butter over a low flame. Add the lobster. Sprinkle with paprika. Sauté one minute. Add the sherry, light cream and 1/2 cup milk. Slowly bring to a boil. Add the instant broth. Combine the beaten egg yolks with 1/4 cup milk, mixing well. Add 3 tablespoons of the hot liquid from the pan to the egg yolks. Gradually stir the egg-yolk mixture into the pan, stirring constantly, and cooking only until the sauce thickens. Overcooking will cause it to curdle. As soon as the sauce begins to bubble around the edge of the saucepan, remove from the fire. Add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the lobster newburg over hot fresh toast.

[recipe_title]Lobster Stuffed with Crab Meat[/recipe_title]

(Two portions)

[recipe]2 live lobsters, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 lbs. each[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup fresh crab meat[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup light bread crumbs or cracker crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons minced green pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]

Prepare the lobster as for broiling, following previous directions. Remove the tomalley, and set it aside. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a saucepan. Add the onion and green pepper. Sauté until onion is yellow. Combine bread crumbs with sautéed vegetables and parsley. Add lemon juice, crab meat and lobster tomalley. Add salt and pepper to taste. Broil the lobster as directed. After removing the lobster from the broiler and before transferring it to the oven, stuff the cavities of the lobster near the head with the crab-meat mixture. Sprinkle lightly with paprika. Bake as directed.

[recipe_title]Lobster Stew A La Playboy[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Meat from 2 boiled chicken lobsters[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, white pepper, paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon onion salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]Tabasco sauce[/recipe]

Separate the lobster tomalley and the roe, if any, from the meat. Slice the meat 1/2-inch thick. Force the tomalley and the roe through a coarse sieve or colander into a heavy saucepan. Add the butler. Sauté very slowly, stirring constantly, about two minutes. Add the lobster. Sauté about two minutes more or until each piece of lobster has absorbed some of the butter. Sprinkle the lobster lightly with salt, white pepper and paprika. Add the milk and cream. Add the onion salt and monosodium glutamate. As slowly as possible bring the liquid up to the boiling point but do not boil. Remove from the fire. Add a dash of Tabasco sauce. You can eat the lobster stew at once, but to permit the flavors to really ripen and "marry," keep the lobster stew in the refrigerator overnight. Then reheat it in a double boiler only until hot, not an instant longer. Eat the stew with pilot crackers or Trenton crackers. Eat it with Relish, Gusto and Alacrity, too.