Let's Go to My Place

There are a whole host of ways to make like a host, whether you're entertaining a single dark-haired, sloe-eyed lovely, throwing a formal dinner party for six or supervising a giant cocktail fest. In each case, you'll naturally want the correct accoutrements: plenty of ice, sparkling glassware, tempting foodstuffs and an ample supply of booze to help create an atmosphere of conviviality. And as host, you'll want to don duds that set you off without ostentation.

Scene: you and your date have just escaped from a large, dull party and your "Let's go to my place" has been accepted. After you've mixed the first nightcap it's a good idea to crawl out of that suit jacket you've been wearing all night and slip into something more comfortable, like they say; make it a red velvet host coat, and see if it doesn't brighten up your prospects as the wee small hours come on.

For something larger than an à deux evening, we feel that as long as there is a reason for giving a party, there is every reason for dressing for it. Few occasions are more special than a black-tie dinner party: first of all, it sets your particular soiree apart from the ordinary. You and your guests know it isn't just another party -- it's an occasion, topped off by an elegant repast and framed by candles, flowers, conversation and cognac.

The dinner party in town still calls for black. (Color does have its place at the resorts, on board ship, at country-club affairs and around the pool. But in town, black tie still means just that. Ties and cummerbunds that are rainbow radiant must be carefully chosen; they have a tendency to dominate not only you but the entire evening as well.)

Even though the formal dinner or supper party requires black, you as host don't have to look like all the other penguins. In the choice of your dinner jacket, there are variations in collars, vents, lapels and cuffs, and departures in facings ranging from grosgrain or satin to braid. And don't forget the different silhouettes that are available: from the natural look distinguished by no shoulder padding, narrow lapels and trousers, and a three-button jacket, to the continental outline with its shorter jacket, tapered trousers and angled pockets. And there's a surprisingly wide choice of fabrics, too. Within the bounds of good taste, and depending upon your budget, you can range from plain worsted to black cashmere, from combinations of silk and worsted to mohair, from silk, faille and light wool tropicals to Dacron combined with wool. For pure luxury, we like the elegance of a host's dinner jacket of black silk embroidery on black velvet, like the one shown at left.

While it's true that as host at a formal dinner party it's right and proper that you distinguish yourself from the rest of your guests, do so only in your choice of jacket. The balance of your outfit should follow the classic traditions of formality: slim, cuffless trousers with the satin stripe down the side, white shirt with waffle or pleated front (ruffles have never appealed to us) and French cuffs, of course. Black silk hose are de rigueur, as are black oxfords or pumps in calf or patent leather.

Just as formal attire makes something special out of your dinner party, and a bright host coat announces to your single guest that you are equipped to offer her anything her little heart desires, so a smoking jacket when you're home alone can make you feel that you are important to yourself. It's good balm for the inner man. The ones we like have deep pockets to accommodate tobacco pouch or cigarette pack if you're a restless wanderer from room to room. Constructed and tailored with a looseness that allows comfort and freedom of movement, the smoking jacket is perfect for those nights when you feel like nothing more than wrapping your paw around a glass of Scotch and getting to that book you've been wanting to read.

For the biggest blast of all, the large cocktail party, you once again have recourse to the red velvet (or another brightly hued) host coat. Naturally, with such colorful plumage as this you'll want to tone down the rest of your outfit. We suggest a pair of dark slacks, slim cut, pleatless, either with or without cuffs. Keep your shoes on the dark side, too, and why not try one of the newer lightweight, square-toe oxfords in black, or a sensible slip-on in a Scotch-grain black or very dark brown. Your shirt, as for all your after-five entertaining, will be white, and you may take your choice of the many accepted collar styles: buttondown, English tab, semi-spread or a round collar that uses a pin. Your tie should also be dark; the brighter the coat, the darker the tie -- and either no pattern or a very minute and subdued one. Another, dressier, choice is a white shirt with straight points and a black dress bow tie. Your position as host is immediately made clear, and all and sundry know at once to whom they should be grateful for the smashing success of the party. This also makes it easy for you to make it easy: there are always those young ladies who, after several hours of downing martinis, love to say goodbye to their host with what they rationalize as a dutiful kiss and a warm embrace. You should make it as simple as possible for them to find you.

Top for a post-prandial tête-à-tête, the host at home supplies apples, cheeses, cognac and a roaring fire -- and dresses in a scarlet host coat, cotton velveteen, fully lined, in a shawl-collar, two-button model with black faille facing, cuff and pocket trim; $37.50 by peerless Robes.

Below, right, alone in his digs with book and pipe, he's correctly garbed in case the doorbell rings, thanks to a plaid cotton velvet smoking jacket with black rayon facing and full sash; $18.50 by Rabhor

Hosting a dinner parry for six, the head man (left) sports an elegant host coat tailored in black velvet richly scrolled in black silk; shawl collar and pocket trimmings are in satin; $125 by After Six. The mirrored raconteur breaking everyone up likes his three-button Ivy-cut evening suit; $75 by Lord West. The third gentleman relaxes in a continental-cut mohair suit with shorter jacket, cutaway front and a new, very narrow shawl collar with satin facing; $125 by Cardinal.