A Formal Affair

playing it cool in a summer dinner jacket

There is a strange paradox in the men's attire field these days. The last 10 years have seen the rise of a great deal more informal living than ever before, ably backed by an emphasis on sportswear and casual duds. Yet, at the same time, the knowledgeable gentleman is becoming more formal in his dress -- but not according to the old mold of rigid conservatism.

A black or white dinner jacket is, of course, still correct for summer or tropical wear, and probably always will be. But there has also been a continuing trend toward additional color in formal warm-weather attire. Another trend that you won't want to buck is toward lightweight construction in jackets, trousers and evening shoes -- all of which help make for elegant, good-looking formal attire that is a pleasure to hang on your back come the balmy nights.

No time of the year puts more emphasis on your formal wardrobe than the season coming up. Why? Because this June, July and August the country clubs, yacht clubs, beach clubs and just plain clubs are going to indulge in the three Ds -- dining, drinking and dancing -- more formally than ever. Fact is, in the more civilized parts of the country, these club affairs are strictly formal on weekends. Also, if your vacation plans carry you to a resort, large hotel or aboard a cruise ship, you'll find that a dinner jacket is mandatory for evening wear.

Every sound formal wardrobe for the gentleman should be built around the black (or, if you wish, midnight blue) dinner jacket for winter. If you choose wisely in one of the new lightweight fabrics, the black job can also be enjoyed as a change during the spring and summer seasons. You should expand your wardrobe from there by adding a white dinner jacket and at least one other jacket in the deep or soft-tone shades shown on these pages -- and don't forget to check out the light blues and the off-whites.

Formal trousers, of course, are never anything save midnight blue or black and they will invariably sport that stripe up the side. Trousers have come a long way in styling as well as weight reduction: they, like all your trousers, should be slim and tapered for a lean, pipe-stem look.

Black patent leather or dull calf shoes or pumps are always worn, though in a pinch you can get by in a black plain-toe calf. Your hose, of course, should be black (plain silk or nylon are best; patterned or clocked socks are strictly thumbs down), and worn with garters.

White dress shirts with plain front or narrow pleats running from the collar all the way down are quite right. The ruffled shirts and lace jabots derived from the colorful costumes of Spain belong just there, not here.

Studs are optional since many of the summer formal shirts come with handsome buttons. Cuff links should be of plain design for formal wear. Solid gold links may be (concluded on page 77) Formal Affair (Continued from page 36) regarded as a long-range investment and they do have the necessary simplicity and quiet elegance for formal clothes.

The cummerbund or the cummervest should be worn in the position of a belt. Keep it down -- at the waistline. The open cummerbund pleats are always turned up when you put the cummerbund on. Usually the bow tie is bought in a set with the cummerbund, but if you prefer to find a special shape in a tie, remember that these two items must match. Most of the packaged bow ties are the pre-tied, clip-on variety used by glue-fingered types who are leery of tieing their own. In turth, anyone who has learned how to tie his shoe laces can handle a bow tie with equal ease, and we recommend you purchase the do-it-yourself model.

Solid black ties are still the most acceptable, with midnight blue running a close second. The use of solid colors other than these, the stripes, or the tartan plaids are also now acceptable. Artsy craftsy brocades, silver and gold lames, and all the other exotic fabrics dreamed up by the designers are colorful plumage, but strictly for the birds.