The Christmas Casserole

At the outset, let anyone who still looks upon the casserole as merely a trencher for bulky peasants' food remind himself of squab en casserole, coq au vin, breast of chicken with broccoli Mornay or cassoulet of duckling. For holiday chefs who, each year, rebel more and more against oversize roasting pans, tough giblets and mountainous bread dressings, such dishes are the staunchest sort of ally, because they combine the heights of both elegance and ease.

In turning to the casserole, the wise cook simply avails himself of the oldest utensil in the entire batterie de cuisine. Earthenware casseroles were used by men in the earliest times, and you'll still find brown earthenware casseroles in restaurants specializing in French provincial cooking, or in stores displaying imported cooking ware. But these honorable relics have generally been replaced by the porcelain cast-iron casserole, a utensil which is ovenproof, flameproof and almost foolproof.

There are two ways in which the sturdy new casserole makes gala cooking easier. First of all, it disencumbers the pot-washer of countless pots and pans that would otherwise pile up in the kitchen sink: a large casserole is versatile enough to take the place of a mixing bowl, a saute pan, saucepan, stew pot, baking dish, roasting pan, serving dish and storage dish for either refrigerator or freezer. Secondly, a casserole opens the door to the most comfortable kind of informal serving.

Even at those tables where the conventional roast turkey must appear on the menu at any cost, the casserole can come to the aid of the carver. It works like this: the turkey is roasted so that it's finished a few hours before the guests arrive. At his leisure the carver walks into the kitchen, rolls up his sleeves and gets down to work. First of all, like any professional cook, he uses his bare hands to separate leg and thigh from the breast. In the same way he removes the tailpiece and the two tender chunks called the oysters. He carves the meat at his own pace. When the bird becomes awkward to handle, he grabs a side of the cavity, with his left hand, and, with his right hand, slices alongside the keel bone, wings and back. After the carving is completed he fills a large shallow casserole with mounds of bread dressing, separated comfortably from each other. On the dressing he first places dark meat, then crowns it with slices of white meat. He pats each portion into a hemisphere, and covers the casserole.

About 20 or 25 minutes before the festal rites begin, he pours into the casserole a half cupful or full cup of chicken or turkey stock (the amount depending on the number of portions), places the casserole in a moderate oven and returns to his double martini. Just before the turkey is borne to the table, he pours piping-hot gravy over each appetizing mound in the casserole. At the table, the placid host comfortably lifts each portion from the casserole to the serving dish. The proceedings are urbane, but — infinitely more important — the turkey is hot, moist and actually seems more fresh-tasting than when it's carved at the table. Second helpings are kept in the covered casserole resting over a candle flame, where they remain hot throughout the meal.

If this kind of formulary strikes you as somewhat too mechanized, be assured that it won't seem so to your diners. The kind of husky and charming casserole that's come into vogue in recent years is impressive when it's brought to the table. And it's practical. It's so tough that you can take it from the hottest oven and place it in the coldest water, and it won't crack. Models of this type of kitchenware now range from tiny little cocottes for drawn butter to huge round or oval casseroles big enough for a rich brown gosling or three or four guinea hens.

The following yuletide dishes are (continued on page 108) Christmas Casserole (continued from page 53) engaging and exotic enough to make keeping holiday for your friends fun without folderol.

[recipe_title]Squab En Casserole[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 1-lb. squabs, cleaned for roasting[/recipe]

[recipe]4 medium-size potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. small silver onions, peeled[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon meat extract[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. button mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]15-oz. can imported tiny carrots[/recipe]

Peel the potatoes. Cut lengthwise into four sections each. Heat the butter and salad oil in a flameproof casserole over a direct flame until butter melts. Add the potatoes and onions. Saute until vegetables are light brown. (You may cover the casserole if necessary to avoid sputtering fat.) Remove potatoes and onions from casserole. Set aside. In the same fat saute the squabs on top and bottom until light brown. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add white wine and brandy, and set aflame. When flames subside, add the meat extract. Stir well. Add mushrooms, onions and potatoes. Place the covered casserole in a preheated oven at 375°, and bake one hour, basting occasionally with gravy in casserole. Drain carrots, and add to casserole. Continue to bake, uncovered, until squabs are browned and tender.

[recipe_title]Chicken With Broccoli Mornay[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 breasts of chicken, boiled[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small-to-medium-size bunch broccoli[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups hot milk[/recipe]

[recipe]3 beaten egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. can cooked wild rice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

Wash broccoli, removing outer green leaves. Cut stems of each piece lengthwise into three or four pieces without separating sections. Cook in slightly salted water until just tender. Avoid overcooking. Drain broccoli. Carve chicken breasts into thin slices, removing skin and bone. Keep warm.

In a heavy saucepan melt the 3 tablespoons butter. Remove saucepan from fire. Stir in flour, blending well. Gradually add hot milk to pan. stirring with wire whip. Return to a moderate flame. Simmer slowly, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons hot sauce slowly to beaten egg yolks, mixing well. Slowly add egg yolks to hot sauce in pan, stirring constantly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook over a slow flame, stirring 2 or 3 minutes. Avoid longer cooking and high heat, or sauce will curdle. Beat cream until thick, and fold into hot sauce. Add 2 tablespoons grated cheese.

Put wild rice in the bottom of the casserole with 2 tablespoons butter. Separate rice grains with fork. Add a few tablespoons water to prevent burning, and cook over a low flame until rice is heated thoroughly. Arrange broccoli on top of rice. Place sliced chicken on broccoli. Spoon sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with balance of the grated cheese. Sprinkle lightly with paprika. Place under a broiler flame until top of sauce just begins to brown. Watch carefully to avoid burning. Serve at once.

[recipe_title]Ham Roulade[/recipe_title]

[recipe]10-oz. package frozen leaf spinach[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]salt, pepper, nutmeg[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 1b. canned, or country, ham,sliced thin[/recipe]

[recipe]no. 2 can sweet potatoes, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons madeira or sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]3-oz. can pecan halves[/recipe]

Cook spinach until tender. Drain spinach well and chop coarsely. Melt the 3 tablespoons butter. Add the onion and saute until onion is yellow. Add spinach to onion, mixing well. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste. Separate ham slices. On each slice place a small amount of the spinach mixture. Roll up the ham slices from the short end. Cut sweet potatoes lengthwise into half-inch slices. In the casserole melt the 1 tablespoon butter over a slow top flame. Add the brown sugar and madeira. Bring to a boil. Simmer 1 minute. Place the ham rolls in the casserole. Arrange sweet potato slices between ham rolls. Sprinkle pecans over top. Baste with liquid in casserole. Bake covered at 375° for 30 minutes, basting occasionally. Bake uncovered 15 to 20 minutes longer. Baste again just before serving.

[recipe_title]Cassoulet of Duckling[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. great northern beans

[recipe]1 large onion, peeled, stuck with 4 cloves[/recipe]

[recipe]1 carrot[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]4 1/2 -lb. duckling[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]no. 2 can tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]2 8-oz. cans tomato sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup finely minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. garlic sausage or thick country sausage[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]

Wash beans well, and soak in 1 quart cold water in a casserole overnight. Add another quart of water. Add the whole onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Add the neck and gizzard of the duckling. Simmer beans slowly over a top flame until tender, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

While beans are simmering place the duckling in an uncovered roasting pan. With a meat fork pierce the duckling skin in about a dozen places to permit fat to escape. Roast at 325° until tender, about 2 hours. Drain off fat from time to time, as it begins smoking. When duckling is finished roasting, remove it from the pan. Again drain off fat, and add 1 cup water to brown pan drippings. Place roasting pan over top flame. Stir well. Bring to a boil. Add this gravy to the casserole.

In a small saucepan melt the butter. Add minced onion and duckling liver. Saute until onion turns yellow. Chop liver coarsely. Set aside onions and liver.

Remove the whole onion, carrot, celery and bay leaf from the beans. Add the sauteed onion and liver to the beans. Chop the tomatoes coarsely. Add the chopped tomatoes together with their juice to the beans. Add the tomato sauce and parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste.

With a poultry shears cut the duckling into small-size serving pieces. Add the duckling to the casserole, forcing the duckling underneath the beans. Bake covered in a slow oven, 325°, 1 1/2 hours. Remove lid from casserole. Cut sausage crosswise into 1/4 -inch-thick slices. Place sausage slices on beans. Sprinkle bread crumbs over top of sausages. Sprinkle lightly with paprika. Bake uncovered until top is brown, about 30 to 40 minutes longer.

[recipe_title]Pork Roast En Casserole[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3-lb. loin pork roast, boned and tied[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cider vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon bouquet garni[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]12 crushed juniper berries[/recipe]

[recipe]2 sliced onions[/recipe]

[recipe]2 sliced pieces celery[/recipe]

[recipe]8 sprigs parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bouillon cube[/recipe]

[recipe]brown gravy color[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons arrowroot or cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]8 carrots[/recipe]

[recipe]4 medium-size potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]2 small white turnips[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. package frozen peas[/recipe]

In a large casserole place the pork, white wine, vinegar, water, bouquet garni, salt, pepper, juniper berries, onions, celery and parsley. Marinate about 24 hours, turning the meat occasionally in the marinade.

Remove pork and vegetables from the marinade. Pour the marinade mixture into a saucepan.

In a hot oven, 450°, roast the pork in an uncovered casserole until the meat is brown, from 30 to 40 minutes.

While the pork is browning, bring the marinade mixture to a boil. Add the bouillon cube. Add a small amount of brown gravy color. Dissolve the arrowroot in 2 tablespoons cold water, and slowly stir into the simmering marinade mixture. Strain this gravy, and pour over the pork in the casserole. Cover the casserole and bake at 350° for 1 hour. Peel the carrots, and cut crosswise into two-inch pieces. Peel the potatoes, and cut lengthwise into quarters. Peel the turnips, and cut lengthwise into six wedges each. Place the potatoes, carrots, turnips and peas in the casserole. Again cover with the lid. Continue to bake until meat and vegetables are tender, 25 to 30 minutes longer.

Serve with gusto, and deck the bowls with boughs of parsley (fa la la la la, la la la la).