Happy Hors D'Oeuvres!

Dictionarily, an hors d'oeuvre is "a relish or appetizer, served usually at the beginning of a meal," and when owners of public eating places talk about hors d'oeuvres, they may mean anything from an anchovy to the Continental hors d'oeuvre wagon, or even smorgasbord. In popular parlance, however, the phrase has come to mean simply something that people eat while they drink. At this time of year, assembling the hors d'oeuvre platter is one of the nation's most active indoor sports. It's impossible to imagine a properly arranged office shindig, fraternity affair, New Year's Eve party, or just a crowd around a punch bowl, without a display of canapés, dips and dunks. What follows, therefore, is a table of tips to help you make sure your hors d'oeuvres turn out to be chefs-d'oeuvre.

Eye appeal is, of course, of immediate importance, but -- and nota bene -- it should be the appeal that comes from the natural sight of good food, freshly unpacked or freshly cooked or freshly sliced. Just to see a pound of Nova Scotia salmon, for instance, sliced thin, dripping its copper-tinted fat on the platter on which it's placed, will tease many appetites into instant awakening.

There are a number of classical delicacies which men have always regarded as perfect hors d'oeuvres, and the bachelor chef could hardly do better than to employ these great old stand-bys. The first that comes to mind is oysters on the half shell. The secret of their cold tangy goodness? Simple freshness. Oysters must be alive when they're opened, and they must be kept ice cold or they won't stay alive. At large blowoffs, oysters aren't too practical since they must be opened to order. If, however, you learn how to use an oyster knife, or if you own a mechanical oyster opener, you can serve the plump bivalves to a large company, and they'll complement any drink. Certainly it would be hard to top pâté de foie gras as an appetizer. Anybody who's eaten it fresh in France or imported in terrines recognizes the real foie gras for a certain seraphic richness. Finally, there's the aristocrat of them all, fresh beluga caviar. The genuine beluga contains no added salt, and yet it has a deep-sea saltiness along with a curious kind of mildness. When you taste the pearl-gray eggs, soft and crisp at the same time, you wonder how something so mild could so strongly stir the taste buds.

Unfortunately, the price of fresh beluga caviar, $2.25 per ounce, or about three times the price of the best Scotch, has always had a slightly deterrent effect on holiday purse strings. But there are hundreds of other wonderful hors d'oeuvres, including a wide variety of slightly salted caviars, and when carefully chosen and set up, they make the martini martinier and turn the champagne into nectar.

A good hors d'oeuvre should harmonize with the type or types of drinks served. For example, if you offer your friends a tray of rum cocktails, or tequila, the Mexican avocado puree called guacamole would be naturally felicitous. Thin slices of Genoa salami, in other circumstances a fine hors d'oeuvre, would be out of place. But no strict ukase need govern your choice. A mixture of cheddar cheese and brandy goes well with almost any kind of bar offering from aquavit to vermouth. Drinkers of dry potables like gin and vodka are always happily disposed toward herring filets and sundry other salty snacks. So unless you're serving every concoction in The Official Mixer's Manual, don't offer the conventional indiscriminate tray of hors d'oeuvres. Make the variety fit the drinks.

Be sure that the canapé carriers are oven fresh and crisp. If necessary to restore their freshness, place them in a very slow oven, 250°, 20 to 30 minutes. For dipping into cocktail spreads, you want small vehicles that won't break and that are delicately neutral in flavor. Be sure the butter used in canapé making is the best, 93 score, unsalted, and freshly unwrapped.

At many parties the overdressed platter of canapés is being replaced more and more frequently with the compartmental hors d'oeuvre dish or lazy susan for self-service. It's child's play to take care of such an assortment, but the display shouldn't remain untended too long when the whoopdedoo is at its height. Dishes should be refilled as often as necessary, and the edges should be kept neat. Table livery such as linen, silver, cocktail spears, cocktail napkins, etc., should be thoughtfully, even fussily, chosen, and arranged with taste.

Perhaps the easiest and most impressive of all hors d'oeuvres for intimate parties is the whole article of food, like a large well-aged gouda cheese, a smoked turkey or a smoked Smithfield ham. You can buy the latter completely cooked and glazed. Such centers of attention should be placed on a large carving board flanked with appropriate carving knife, meat fork or cheese scoop, as well as a large basket with thin slices of French bread, salt rye bread or cocktail-size pumpernickel rounds.

When, in his Canterbury Tales, Chaucer speaks of "the hors that hadde winges for to flee," he refers, of course, to "The Pegasee." But try the following hors, and see if they don't have the wings it takes to get your holiday drinking off the ground.

[recipe_title]Lobster PâTé[/recipe_title](About 1 1/4 cups)

[recipes]1 boiled fresh lobster, about 1-1/2 lbs. raw[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 cup celery cut into small dice[/recipes]

[recipes]3 tablespoons butter at room temperature[/recipes]

[recipes]2 tablespoons mayonnaise[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipes]

[recipes]1/4 teaspoon onion salt[/recipes]

[recipes]1/8 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipes]

[recipes]2 tablespoons dry sherry dash white pepper[/recipes]

Remove all meat from lobster, discarding sac in back of head. Cut the lobster meat into cubes about 1/4-in. thick. Don't discard the green liver or coral roe, if any. Put the lobster and celery through an electric meat grinder, using the finest blade. Add all other ingredients, and mix well. Chill in the refrigerator.

[recipe_title]Brandied Cheddar Spread[/recipe_title](About 2 cups)

[recipes]1 lb. sharp cheddar cheese[/recipes]

[recipes]1/3 cup brandy[/recipes]

[recipes]3 tablespoons butter at room temperature[/recipes]

[recipes]2 tablespoons heavy cream[/recipes]

[recipes]dash nutmeg[/recipes]

[recipes]dash cayenne pepper[/recipes]

Put the cheese through a meat grinder, using the finest blade. Combine the cheese in a mixing bowl with all other ingredients. Mix well. Chill in the refrigerator. Remove from the refrigerator about a half hour before serving so the cheese may be spread easily. A good bourbon may be substituted for brandy with excellent results.

[recipe_title]Guacamole with Bacon[/recipe_title](About 2 cups)

[recipes]2 cups mashed avocado[/recipes]

[recipes]2 tablespoons lime juice[/recipes]

[recipes]1 teaspoon grated onion[/recipes]

[recipes]2 teaspoons olive oil[/recipes]

[recipes]8 drops Tabasco sauce[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipes]

[recipes]1/4 teaspoon monosodium glutamate[/recipes]

[recipes]4 slices bacon[/recipes]

Buy two large ripe avocados. Cut in half. Remove seed, and scoop out meat with a spoon. Puree the avocado meat in a blender or meat grinder, or force it through a large fine wire strainer. When ripe, avocados are easy to puree by hand. As soon as the 2 cups of avocado are mashed, combine with the lime juice, onion, olive oil, Tabasco sauce, salt and monosodium glutamate. Put the bacon in a cold frying pan. Heat over a moderate flame, turning frequently, until bacon is crisp. Drain bacon; cut or crumble into very small pieces and add to the avocado mixture. Chill thoroughly. This is an excellent dip for scooping with shrimp chips.

[recipe_title]Sour Cream And Anchovy Dip[/recipe_title](About 2 cups)

[recipes]2-oz. can rolled anchovies with capers[/recipes]

[recipes]1/4 medium-size green pepper[/recipes]

[recipes]1 cup sour cream[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 lb. cream cheese, at room temperature[/recipes]

[recipes]2 tablespoons finely chopped scallions or chives[/recipes]

[recipes]4 drops Tabasco sauce[/recipes]

Drain oil off anchovies. Chop anchovies and green pepper very fine. In a mixing bowl combine all ingredients. Stir thoroughly until well blended. No lumps of cream cheese should appear. Chill well.

[recipe_title]Shrimp Canapés, Curry Butter[/recipe_title](About 30)

[recipes]1 lb. medium-size shrimp, about 30 to the pound[/recipes]

[recipes]salt, white pepper[/recipes]

[recipes]juice of 1/4 lemon[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 cup sweet butter, at room temperature[/recipes]

[recipes]2 teaspoons curry powder[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 teaspoon ground coriander[/recipes]

[recipes]Melba toast rounds[/recipes]

[recipes]2 tablespoons finely chopped chives[/recipes]

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Hors D'Oeuvres!

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Peel the raw shrimp, removing vein in back. (Peeling the shrimp before boiling will cause them to curl into a compact round shape, best for this type of canapé.) In a heavy pot bring 1 cup water to a rapid boil. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and the lemon juice. Add the shrimp. Cook covered, about 5 minutes. Drain the shrimp. Chill thoroughly. Combine the butter, curry powder and coriander. Blend well. Spread the butter thickly on the toast, and place a shrimp on each round. Sprinkle lightly with salt, white pepper and chopped chives.

[recipe_title]Ham and Mushroom Canapés[/recipe_title](About 30)

[recipes]1/4 lb. fresh mushrooms[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 cup red wine vinegar[/recipes]

[recipes]1/3 cup olive oil[/recipes]

[recipes]1 medium-size onion, sliced[/recipes]

[recipes]1/4 teaspoon salt[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 cup sweet butter, at room temperature[/recipes]

[recipes]3 tablespoons mild prepared mustard cocktail crackers, square shaped[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 lb. sliced boiled ham[/recipes]

[recipes]3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley[/recipes]

The mushrooms in this canapé, which are marinated raw, should be firm and white, with tight-fitting caps. Wash mushrooms. Cut vertically into thin slices. No slice should be larger than the canapé base used. Place the mushrooms in a salad bowl with the vinegar, olive oil, onion and salt. Marinate overnight. Combine the butter and mustard, mixing well. Spread the canapé crackers with the butter. Cut the ham into small pieces carefully, to fit each canapé. There should be no overlapping, ragged edges. Place the ham on the buttered canapé crackers. Drain the mushrooms. Arrange the mushroom slices on the ham. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley.

[recipe_title]Scallop Canapés[/recipe_title], [recipe_title]Horseradish Butter[/recipe_title](About 30)

[recipes]1 lb. fresh sea scallops[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 cup lime juice[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 cup sweet butter, at room temperature[/recipes]

[recipes]3 tablespoons prepared horseradish salt, white pepper[/recipes]

[recipes]2 tablespoons chopped chives or scallions[/recipes]

[recipes]round cocktail crackers or Melba toast[/recipes]

Wash the scallops well. Slice each one crosswise to make round pieces for fitting on the cocktail crackers. There should be approximately 30 pieces. Marinate the scallops in the lime juice overnight. During this time the scallops will become "cooked," or pickled, by the acid juice. Combine the butter and horseradish, mixing well. Spread the butter on the cocktail crackers. Drain the scallops. Place a scallop on each round. Sprinkle lightly with salt and white pepper. Sprinkle with chopped chives or scallions.

[recipe_title]Hot Chicken Tartlets[/recipe_title](24 pieces)

[recipes]1 cup finely diced boiled chicken[/recipes]

[recipes]1/4 cup condensed cream of chicken soup, undiluted[/recipes]

[recipes]2 tablespoons mayonnaise[/recipes]

[recipes]1 tablespoon bourbon[/recipes]

[recipes]1 tablespoon sherry[/recipes]

[recipes]1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper[/recipes]

[recipes]1/8 teaspoon salt[/recipes]

[recipes]24 small tartlet shells, holding about 1 tablespoon each paprika[/recipes]

Be sure the chicken is free of all fat, skin or bones before dicing. In a mixing bowl combine the chicken, cream of chicken soup, mayonnaise, bourbon, sherry, pepper and salt. (Be sure the pepper is freshly ground, since it's the ingredient that gives this appetizer its zip.) Mix well. Fill the tartlet shells with the chicken mixture. Sprinkle lightly with paprika. Place the filled tartlet shells in a shallow pan or pie plate. Bake in a preheated oven at 375° about 10 minutes or until tops are browned.

Shrimp, lobster or crab meat, cooked, freed of all bones or shell and finely diced, may be used in place of chicken. Use condensed bisque of shrimp soup instead of chicken soup.

[recipe_title]Grilled Sardines[/recipe_title], [recipe_title]White Wine Butter[/recipe_title](12 hot canapés)

[recipes]3-1/4-oz. can boneless and skinless sardines[/recipes]

[recipes]1 envelope instant minced onions[/recipes]

[recipes]1/2 cup dry white wine[/recipes]

[recipes]1/4 cup butter at room temperature[/recipes]

[recipes]3 slices white bread paprika[/recipes]

Carefully remove sardines from tin without breaking them and split each sardine lengthwise into two pieces. Soak the instant minced onions in the white wine for 5 minutes. Simmer the onions and wine over a slow flame until the wine is reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Let the wine mixture cool until it is nearly room temperature. Then mix it thoroughly with the butter into a smooth paste. Toast the bread on one side only under a moderate broiler flame. Arrange the sardines on the untoasted side of the bread, allowing four sardine halves to each piece of bread. Spread or brush the white wine butter over the sardines. Sprinkle lightly with paprika. Broil under a moderate broiler flame until edges of bread begin to brown. Remove bread from broiler with a wide spatula. Cut each slice of bread into four pieces, each with a broiled sardine half. You'll find your guests packed around this tasty dish like -- well, like sardines.