The true gourmet, as opposed to the food snob, enjoys simple fare with as much gusto as he enjoys intricate and subtle delicacies. Nobody with good sense and a brisk appetite would snub, for example, the lowly frankfurter — provided it were well prepared. And, not long ago, the frankfurter was prepared to a Frenchy fare-thee-well by chef John Bandera of Chicago's Cafe Bonaparte, as part of a hoopla signalizing the hundredth anniversary of David Berg & Co., whose founder, we're told, was instrumental in introducing the succulent sausage to America. We were invited to the celebration because of our keen interest in gourmandise, and we ate well. Afterward, we became chummy with Mr. Bandera and, always working, pried out of him his recipes for the glamorous Gallicized franks we had enjoyed:
Frankfurters saute poivrade (Hors d'oeuvres for six) 8 frankfurters, 2 cups water, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon freshly ground coarse black pepper, 1 teaspoon marjoram.
Boil frankfurters in water for one minute. Drain. Slice each frankfurter diagonally into five pieces. Saute in butter, adding pepper and marjoram. Turn until browned. Serve in chafing dish with toothpicks handy.
Frankfurters Bourguignonne (Serves four) 8 frankfurters, 1/4 lb. salt pork, diced, 2 tablespoons butter, 3 teaspoons chopped shallots (substitute onions or chives, if desired), 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic, 3 cups claret, 1 no. 2 1/2 can small pearl onions, 1/2 lb. fresh whole button mushrooms, 1 no. 2 can brown sauce, 24 cooked Parisienne potatoes (small potato balls browned in deep fat).
Cut frankfurters in thirds. Saute frankfurters and salt pork in butter approximately five minutes, turning to brown. Remove meat and add shallots and garlic to the fat. Simmer two or three minutes. Add wine. Simmer until liquid is reduced to one cup — takes approximately eight minutes. Add onions, mushrooms and brown sauce. Cover and simmer for fifteen minutes. Add potatoes and frankfurters.
Frankfurters En Brochette, Dijon Sauce (Four skewers, two to three portions) 4 frankfurters, 1/4 cup butter, 1 green pepper cut into large squares, 8 fresh mushroom caps, 8 small pearl onions, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 teaspoons chopped shallots, 1/2 cup dry white wine, 1/2 cup canned brown sauce, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard.
Melt 1/4 cup butter over a slow flame. Add the green pepper squares and mushroom caps. Saute until tender. Peel the onions and boil until tender. Cut frankfurters into four pieces. Thread on skewers, using frankfurters, mushrooms, green pepper squares and onions. Fills four ten-inch skewers. Brush with butter remaining in pan in which vegetables were sauteed. Broil under low heat until browned. While the brochettes are broiling, baste frequently with the following sauce:
Melt two tablespoons butter in a saucepan. Add shallots and saute until they just begin to brown. Add wine and simmer until liquid is halved. Add brown sauce and mustard. Stir well with a wire whip. Bring to a boil and simmer two to three minutes.
As we were leaving Cafe Bonaparte, Chef Bandera confidentially revealed to us one more fascinating recipe, Chien Chaud, which happened to be his favorite. We found the ingredients strangely familiar: frankfurter, bun, mustard, relish, catsup (chopped onion optional, for antisocial types).
