Playboy's Fall and Winter Fashion Forecast

Men who pride themselves on being trend-setters in the fashion field will find this fashion forecast – the first of what will be a semi-annual playboy report – a valuable guide to the garb they'll be eager to own in the months ahead. Customarily, our fashion coverage concerns itself with specific elements of your wardrobe. Here, we're surveying the entire fashion field to provide you with an authoritative view of duds you'll want to be on the watch for, style directions that will be in the vanguard through the end of winter, (Next April, we'll present our advance word on spring and summer attire.)

There are two major influences affecting the forthcoming fashion scene and at least the signs of a third trend aborning. Ivy will remain very big in urban suits and casual wear; in this area it is mostly fabrics that are news, both in terms of colors and in the design of the fabrics themselves. Checks and plaids are going to be among the leaders, in standard and offbeat colors, and a new depth of shading will be seen in the more subdued patterns. There will be a new richness of tone because of blends: dark tones will be big, but without the customary flatness and with a definite feeling of luxuriousness.

It can be expected that the Continental influence with trimmer, cleaner and slimmer lines will continue to be very much a part of the urban suit wardrobe for business and, particularly, for dress wear. The trend toward clothing that is more formal and elegant than the best of Ivy is part of the sophisticated world, and no matter what the style is called, it will be consistent with the best elements in Continental styling. "Continental" as a term may appear less and less frequently, but evidence of the effect it has had and the strength of its influence will be seen in the shortening, opening up (below the bottom button) and rounding off of most suit jackets you'll see.

There are definite signs that point to a reawakening of interest in English styling. A limited amount of the veddy English look is going to appear, but British touches will be widely evident. More chest expression, broader lapel shapes, modified waist suppression and a bit more fullness to jacket skirts are being tried with suits and odd coats. Shoulders will have a more tailored (but still natural) look; the broad and the bulky are still out. English styling is valid fashion and has been for a long time; its influence is to be more strongly felt, however. Like the Continental, it is not (continued on page 58) suitable for all figure types. Shorter men are apt to look a bit more so with any kind of flare in the skirt of a jacket or with even modified shoulder emphasis. Waist suppression should be subtle and its aim of trimness will be defeated if there is any tendency to middle spread. The new British look is going to be great for sports jackets in heather-toned tweeds. It can be expected that the Savile Row feeling will extend itself to afternoon suits, too.

On the sweater scene, more than anywhere else, perhaps, there will be genuine fashion news. The high-V is the descriptive term used for the shortened version of the V-neck, and it will be very big. The high closure works equally well with the shawl collar and the button fronts. The extra-heavy, rough, bulky sweater is out. The look is still robustly masculine, but it is brushed now, and the knit is lighter and flatter than in past seasons. This trend to less bulk keynotes innovations in knitting techniques, where flat knits are becoming increasingly important. Dimensional and textured knits will be right up there, too, Magnified stitches will provide texture interest in popcorn, waffle, honeycomb, basket, pebble, souffle1, open ribs and hand-turned cabling. Brushed surfaces will vary from deep fluffy piles to just a hint of brushed softness. The modified shawl collar and the high-V, widely banded, will run a close race for neckline preference. Pullovers should far outnumber the cardigan styles. The shirt look of button-placket pullovers plus completely shirt-tailored knits will usher in a new trend. General styling will be long and loose. Green-tinged hues will remain strong, but we predict that an abundance of the heathery and marl tones will challenge their popularity.

In the rainwear department the news will be patterned fabrics. There will be fewer extreme models than there were last fall, and pile and fur-type linings and liners will be much in evidence. Double-breasted coats will make a comeback. Look for the return of covert cloth as a material for both suits and raincoats – a rediscovery we applaud.

The news in shoe is good: fewer gadgets and solider styling. The new footwear generally will be tapered to a somewhat finer point, in keeping with the slim lines of both Ivy and American Continental suits, but the new shoes are to be more "shoe" than the previous delicate Italian styles. Soles will be thin and very flexible, and cut very close to the shape of the shoe. Heels will be slightly higher. The slip-ona will be more popular than ever, but bluchers, too, are in for new attention. The high-riser silhouettes will be much in evidence. These will be available in the same extended range of blacks, browns, burnished olives and ivy leathers from which more orthodox dress shoes are made. Moccasin fronts, increasingly popular, also will show the tapered influence. Ankle-high chukkas, with supple leather uppers and springy leather soles, should predominate for weekend knocking about. Loden green, charcoal brown and slate are to be among the more popular new shades. Look, also, for updated versions of the wing-tip shoe, lightened, slimmed down and with a new look of elegance.

The hatters are betting on contrasting color trims on smooth felts, silk finishes, mixtures and scratch finishes. Casual and sports hats will continue to grow in popularity. Tyroleans, cloth hats, casual crushers and tweedy trims will be very much on the scene for wear with wintry casual clothes. Brims will be even smaller. Tapered crowns will further emphasize the small look of the new headgear. Charcoal, steel gray, blacks and black olives will win out over the browns. Ivy types can look for more raw edges in their new felts. Continental fanciers will want to try the new semi-Homburg with a narrow 17/8-inch brim.

Moderation is the good word in the new slacks, conservative thinking having triumphed over the duked-up experimentation of seasons past. Continental slacks are still going to be very much with us but with an absence of gimmicks or extreme style features. Frontier pockets and dropped polo pockets will be out. The newest slack trend is in the country trouser – traditional in cut, but in beefier, more rugged fabrics. The trend in coloring is toward subtlety, with small patterns in subtly contrasting colors coming on strong. Tone-on-tone window plaids will be big and stripes also will figure in the pattern picture, though considerably toned down, with the shadow stripes or tone-on-tone stripes very right indeed, Vou'll want to favor worsted flannels, hopsacks and the revived gabs, all emphasizing country colors – mixtures of earthy taupe with olive and bronze accents; in corduroy, polished cotton and narrow cords the olives and golden beiges will lead the color parade.

Vests, we're glad to say (for they offer a splendid opportunity to show individuality) will be back in full force. Doeskin, corduroy, suede, hopsack, burlap, madras, cotton, brocade, wool – solid, fancy, regular or reversible – will be yours to choose from. Some will have knitted backs, some will be double-breasted, all will be seen worn with sports jackets and with natural-shoulder suits and the new "country" or "sport suits."

These sport suits are definitely a development worth watching. They are casual coats teamed with matching or harmonizing slacks and vests, to make three-piece outfits that are correct for exurban and at-ease social occasions. Favor those cut along natural lines, in fabrics ranging from enlarged hopsacks to bold hound's-tooth checks.

On the fabric front, look for three major trends. First, the greatest increase in interest for any fabric will be enjoyed by corduroy. You'll see it in everything from a buttondown pullover shirt to a printed plaid corduroy sports jacket, to a vest, to slacks, and in every form from wide wale to narrow pin cord, in colors from deep brown to pure white.

Second are the blanket plaids. The horse-blanket look will be evident as hidden color in linings for outerwear and sportswear. If you have the poise to swing it, you'll want to latch onto a completely functional reversible spectator sports cape, one side water-resistant poplin and the other a bold plaid.

Third are what the trade calls laminates. Traditional fabrics, jersey and knits are being bonded to foam for body and shape-retention. The resulting laminate will be used for a new category of garment that might best be described as a sweater-jacket. We predict it will be big on the casual scene.

Apropos materials, anticipate a much wider use of shearling and of fur trim. In shearling you'll probably be offered your choice, either the authentic thing itself, or shearling-like wool, or the new synthetic shearling. Whether mock or original sheepskin, you'll find shearling lining in the more casual outerwear, extending into the collar, facing, pockets, cuffs and fronts. A newer note is the rugged handsomeness of shearling edge showing through at yoke and seams. You'll find shearling backing up corduroy, cotton, cotton blends, sueded cotton and wool. It's also most effective with real leathers, such as cabretta, suede or deerskin.

Fur trim is news, too. With the enormous success of fur-like pile shawl and notched collars in outerwear in the past couple of seasons, it is inevitable that more fur – and simulated and synthetic fur – will be seen this coming season on everything from suburban and car coats (with beaver and raccoon) to evening coats using luxury furs such as mink, sable or astrakhan. A new, extremely elegant style for the gentleman of means is the successful combination of fine cashmere with a mink or sable collar for the ultimate in town topcoats, ideal for the most gala occasions. The fur collar may be removed, allowing for the simple enjoyment of a rich fabric topcoat.

The formal-wear story will continue to reflect the Continental influence, expressed in peaked lapels and angled shawl collars. The cutaway-front, one-button jacket will hold sway because of its elegance. Be cautious about braid as edging; it can easily be overdone. A legitimate new direction is the use of black mohair with a muted plum strip (continued on page 137) Fashion (continued on page 58) ing. The possibilities of dark tones combined in a subtle manner are being explored – sensibly – as a change from classic black, a valid trend as opposed to the garish use of oriental brocades.

Sports jackets, as we've indicated, will be reverting – somewhat – to their founding influence, which is British. This means a slightly wider and notched lapel, more use of flapped hacking and patch pockets, center or side vents, three buttons, some waist suppression, more shoulder tailoring. Outsized glen plaids and district checks head the list of patterns, with a revival of tartan plaids strong. The homespun look – accomplished by combining many colors in a weave – will also be favored, and more and more rep silk linings will be used to dress up sports jackets. Each wardrobe should have at least one jacket for spectator wear, and one or more in muted, richer blends for less casual occasions.

The dress-shirt picture will feature new colors: linen and ivory (a civilizing subtlization of olive and gold). Construction improvements will include more tapering and more pullovers. Collars will still be tab, tablcss, round eyelet, small and medium spread and but-tondown, but expect the buttondown to be shortened and the spread collar narrowed. With an eye to the stripes and plaids in upcoming suitings, the shirt-makers are working toward fashions that are softer and less strident than before. In dressier dress shirts, the modified spread collar will be your best choice. A revival of the contrasting collar and cuff on a solid-body shirt will be welcome for alter-five wear and as a break from the traditional white shirt, and there will be a good range of solid and soft colors in this style. Blue will make a strong comeback here, with pastel lime and lemon also worthy of notice.

The trend in cut-and-sewn sport shirts is toward textured materials: tweedy cottons, plaid hopsacks, plaid oxfords, humble-looking homespuns and brushed cottons and rayons with a worsted suiting "hand." As to color, the so-railed solids (which are actually compounds or yarn-dyed effects) are a safe bet and a good one. Look for the growth of the very new winter batiks, and for prints on cotton hopsack as well as broadcloth and regular oxford. Wovens (as they're ungrammatically called) are also making strides with newly colored district checks and plaids, twill weaves, and a revival ol tartan checks. Fly fronts will grow in popularity. Collars will be shorter and have more spread. "Engineered" placket treatments will be very big. Pullovers, tapered cuts and shorter buttondown collars are highlights.

Your knit-shirt supply will be im-proved by the adoption to these shirts of knitting stitches already used in sweaters. Velours, sheared and sueded cloths, brushed and boucle types, along with winter versions of terry knits, are going to be widely shown. Look, too, lor self collars, made from the same fabrics used in the body. Rib-knit collars will be fuller and may extend into the plackets. Continental one-piece collars will still be strong, as will shawl collars in trimmer, narrowed versions.

It you're planning to revise or expand your tie wardrobe – an excellent notion – there's good news for you, for there will be a wider choice than in seasons past. Prints have lost their hold, except in conversational prints – which will continue to gain adherents. Tie shapes are just a bit wider: the extremely narrow tie is disappearing. New stripe patterns in bright colors will supplement the usual reps and challis. Jacquard grounds will figure large for dressier clothes.

Most men are under-equipped with belts. The coming season will be a good time to rectify the lack. The belt wardrobe should be a full and varied one. Fabric belts will offer even more color and variety than heretofore. Hopsacking and braids in slightly wider widths will come into their own. Leather will make news on the color front, too: look for belts in soft golds and ivy green. Remember, however, that while your belt collection may be extensive and colorful in materials and buckles, the basic black or brown leather belt and uninvolved buckle should not be neglected. The classic simplicity of a quality leather belt is the foundation of this element of the gentleman's wardrobe.

As to gloves, the gentleman's choice will reveal the general increase in consciousness of the demands of urban elegante, and the differentiation in degrees of formality that Continental styling has made possible. Pigskin is not an all-purpose glove material. Pigskin and capeskin in their new bulkier versions have the right look of vigor for casual and country winter wear; they look smart and are right either as is or lined, and will be available in regular sizes, in stretch gloves, and with interesting contrasts of palm and back. The urban scene will call for the smartness of a thinner glove in black or gray; the well-dressed man will want a few pairs of both.

A final news note is the emergence of a suit that might be thought of as bridging the gap between formal business attire and the old-fashioned cutaway. If you're a guest at – or the host of – a party whose written invitation does not specify black tie, but does call for an R.S.V.P.. you may want to sport this dressy combination of a solid, double-breasted jacket over striped trousers.