Things You Check

The checkroom at Chicago's Playboy Key Club is the setting for an off-and-on romance involving the handsome outerwear you see at your right; and a fashionable layaway plan it is. The cloakroom Bunnies attentively in attendance have testified of late that what's coming off at the club is taking up a lot less space than it used to, and there are good reasons for the trend: coats (both top- and over- ), hats, gloves, mufflers, umbrellas and attache cases have all been Metrecaled down to a slim, trim, decidedly elegant look that was unknown just a short while ago.

The town-attuned topcoat takes on three distinct looks, and there's at least one that's particularly right for you, no matter what your choice of suit – Ivy, Continental or British Lounge. Your (concluded on page 105) Things you check (continued from page62) decision in a coat may be the always-correct, slightly-fitted, semi-chesterfield classic with its natural shoulders, fly front, flap pockets, and notched or semi-peaked lapels. Or, if you prefer, there's the nattily casual British Warmer. This double-breasted stand-by is a good fashion bet in either its original military shade of pinkish tan or in recently introduced olive, blue, gray or brown. Or you may favor the traditional fitted dress coat in dark gray or brown luxury fabrics. Slightly longer than knee length, it sets off rich suitings extremely well. Peaked or semi-peaked lapels (just a shade wider this year than last), button-through front, and patch or angled pockets are distinguishing characteristics of this breed.

When casualness is the keynote, there is another coterie of coats from which to choose – notched-collar raglans to be worn with Ivy and conservative suits, double-breasted polo coats for sports wear, the modified ulster for fair weather and foul, and the British-inspired bal-macaan that's the perfect cover-up for sports jacket and slacks.

The guy with a head on his shoulders makes a point these days of having a hat on his head, a pleasant enough task, since styles have never looked better, and the assortment of models, colors and trims is more varied now than a sea-son ago. Most of the new models feature a smaller silhouette. This whittled-down shape, becoming to most everyone, is the result of proportionately lower crowns. The new-breed felts actually have more brim than is at first apparent, an optical illusion created by taking a moderately full brim and giving it a deep roll. This is particularly suited to the fellow with a full face.

Black is still the big color in dress hats. Covert shades trimmed with black bands and brim-edge-bound with gabardines are an innovation worth nothing. The contrasting color trims are showing up on smooth felts, new silk finishes multi-hued mixtures, scratch finishes and soft, suede-like felts, as well as luxurious velours.

In gloves, there's a whole fistful of fresh Continental ideas. Olive, antique brown and vicuna are supplementing the classic browns, tans, grays and blacks. Luxurious lightweight leathers include butter-soft capeskins, split pigskins and new reverse lambskins. Back vents, shorter lengths, off-center decoration, embossed or latticework effects are interesting on-hand additions. The inside story is told in elasticized cuffs, and foam or pile linings. Smart and practical, too, are the stretch gloves with Helanca sidewalls.

Along with the classic knits and woven plaids, today's well-mufflered man has a fresh and wide choice for dress wear – pure silks in neat as well as bold patterns, regal cashmeres, and reversibles that switch from pattern to plain, wool to silk, color to color. And speaking of color, the muffler works well as a bold accent against a topcoat's solid tones. Check them out carefully to make sure that the things you check garner admiring glances from the hat-check chick.