Ernie's, in San Francisco, is a sumptuous restaurant out of the crystal-and-velvet Victorian age. From the Gibson Girl prints adorning the walls to the gaslight fixtures glowing softly, Ernie's is a luxurious reminder of Nineteenth Century grandeur. The three dining rooms, two downstairs and one upstairs, are plushly upholstered. Much of their warmth – as LeRoy Neiman's painting indicates – stems from the deep, textured red that adorns walls and tufted chairs, and dominates the rooms. A massive mahogany bar just beyond the main entrance, and a small vintage replica upstairs, are elegant complements to the air of luxurious ease. The main-floor bar is a creation of rare beauty; according to artist Neiman, it is a stunning introduction to Ernie's. "Once you pass through the single, inconspicuous door into this connoisseur's world, you're immediately struck by the enormous, regal bar. It is amazingly large and its already commanding presence is enhanced by row after row of bottles lining its rear wall," Neiman recalls. But it is the food – even more memorable than the decor – that keeps diners lingering longer at Ernie's than at most restaurants. Served expertly by waiters of Continental discretion, the food is the heart of Ernie's allure, in the opinion of hosts Victor and Roland Gotti. A glance at the menu reveals its auspicious nature; a sampling from it confirms the Gottis' judgment. Among the choice hors d'oeuvres are Iced Cracked Crab with Sauce Mayonnaise and Imported Italian Polli Peperoncini. After French Onion Soup or Tortellini alla Romana, you may select from a list of entrees that includes Filets of Sole Normande and Chicken Sauté Sec with Mushrooms and Fine Herbs or delight in one of the Specialitá della Casa – Tenderloin of Beef En Brochette, with Sauce Chasseur (and Risotto of Wild Rice) or Roast Boned Royal Squab, Montmorency, for example. The more-than-ample wine list enables you to match one of your favorites to each course. For dessert, Zabaione al Marsala is perfect for two. And after-dinner liqueur, from Ernie's treasured stock, brings the meal to a leisurely close. Strolling through the parlor-like premises for a final savoring of the comforts of the Gay Nineties, before returning to modern San Francisco, you are reminded anew that this is one of the world's elite epicurean retreats
