On The Right Track

Back In The Halcyon Days Of Saratoga, when the world of horse racing extended from the thick-carpeted clubhouse to the clipped lawns and white verandas of the old United States Hotel, frock coats and top hats were indispensably correct for gentleman spectators. Times and tastes have changed, however, and today's turfwear – except in the Enclosure at Ascot, where stately styles still survive – has taken on an equally correct but far more colorful, comfortable, contemporary look. Whether handicapping the futurity at Santa Anita or checking time at the Maine Chance Farm on a new French thoroughbred, box-holder and railbird alike rate the new spectator suits, slacks, sports coats, shoes and accessories shown here as their best bets in modern track fashion.

In textures tamed and untamed, patterns plain and dappled, tones gentle and (concluded on page 122) Right Track (continued from page 78) spirited, the style stable has produced a crossbreed of Old and New World bloodlines that should make this year's fashion sweepstakes as attention-grabbing as the Grand National. America's virile adaptation of the traditionally British look – still the perennial favorite – has sired a brand-new entry in the jacket derby that should get the nod from the most exacting track judge. A trifle broader across the flanks than the classic soft-shoulder coat, this new jacket combines deep side or center vents with a trace of waist suppression and a slight flare at the bottom; the resulting horsy look is completely authentic, and a certain style winner.

For trackside clocking of early-morning workouts, the suede hacking jacket is a real thoroughbred. This elegantly comfortable coat style is even longer than the new-look sports jackets, with wider flaring and deeper vents.

In the current slack race, all gimmick entries such as back straps and pocket flaps have been summarily scratched; but side tabs, buckle fasteners and elastic waistbands are being touted to tighten the race. The traditionally slim-shanked Continental look will feature the clean-lined pleatless front, as usual; but style interest will be enhanced by new departures in the use of fabrics. While flannels are eternally correct, you might want to venture into the fields of jerseys, gabardines, poplins and the new compound cloths which mate mohairs and man-made fibers to the sturdy woolen bloodline. Cavalry twills and Bedford cord, both pressing for a comeback, should wind up in the money, too.

By all odds, however, the dark horse in the style derby is the versatile country suit – a style mixture blending the casual sports-coat look and the classic suit lines. First spotted at the January flat races in Bowie, Maryland, this fast-gaining contender is already being seen from Aqueduct to Churchill Downs. But the muted patterns and colors of past sporting seasons are being turned out to pasture in favor of bright new herringbones, plaids and checks, turf tones, chestnuts and dapple-grays.

Even at Roosevelt and the Hamble-tonian, there won't be anything sulky about the new shirts for spectator sportswear. Stripes will be the big news in a variety of hues both subtle and startling, with cuffs both barrel and French, and collars both tabbed and buttoned. The hot tip in this race is to parlay long-shot combinations of shirt and jacket into pattern-on-pattern style winners. The coordinated solid tie is still a safe bet, but this season figured foulards will be running neck and neck in fresh but orderly updated treatment of traditional taste. On top of all this, the new waistcoats are ablaze with color, and ready to invest your track wardrobe with uninhibited accents of sun and earth tones.

The new belts have buckled down to a season of revived traditional styling. Chinese puzzle fastenings and tricky trimmings have been ditched for a look of elegant simplicity. With the renaissance of belt loops, new oil-stained leathers in burnished tones of rich brown, black and olive green have shown up at the track; so have new widths ranging from 1/4 inch to 1 1/4 inches (to be worn in direct ratio to height); and new stretch-fabrics of stripes, plaids, paisley and even bold batik – all created to fit the modern mood in slacks and jackets.

Your choice of shoe styles for paddock treading should fit the total look of your sporting outfit – and the formality or informality of each equestrian event. At state occasions for the kingly pastime – such as Saratoga Springs or the Kentucky Derby – classics such as the plain toe, wing tip and moccasin front are the accepted pace-setters. But even these will be contemporized with a lighter, trimmer, more flexible look. At a freewheeling trotter's track or high-jumping steeplechase, you'll be well shod in a pair of the handsome new slip-ons. With their close-fitting elastic boxer tops and side gores, and higher tongues increasingly in evidence, this popular style is really coming up on the outside – to produce a more covered-up look in casual footwear. For warmer months and climes, laced shoes will be in excellent order, fitted with three- or four-eyelet ties and slightly higher in front than heretofore.

Topping off the new look of colorful comfort in track styles is a surge in cap-wear. This jaunty headgear will be making its bid in a variety of solid colors, nubby textures, batik patterns and linen-like fibers. Woven fabrics – soft enough to roll up and tuck in a pocket, springy enough to retain their smart original shape – will also be running strong.

Whether you win, place or show at the betting windows, these spirited styles in modern trackwear will keep you several suit-lengths ahead of the pack in the fashion derby. Bon chance!