Ship to Shore

From Balboa to bar harbor, some 39,000,000 pleasure craftsmen will be cruising the country's waterways this summer. Bedecked in the trim new lines of boating attire, this record show of hands will be functionally garbed for high-sea wear and suavely suited for the social whirl ashore. These two wardrobes share a versatility tailor-made for the limited storage space available on even the stateroomiest yacht. What's more, neither wind nor rain nor chill of night will stay these styles from their appointed rounds; cut with clean-limbed simplicity in shades both offbeat and upbeat, most are compounded of featherlight cottons and squall-proofed wash-and-wear synthetics that ignore inclemency, warm weightlessly, resist wrinkles and keep their crease in models equally appropriate for cockpit libations or on-deck action.

On the fashion scene afloat, the bulky look and feel of past styles have been deep-sixed in favor of action-keyed functionalism and extra-casual comfort. The new wave of (concluded on page 141) Ship to Shore (continued from page 76) windbreakers, surcoats and warm-weather parkas -- detailed variously with hoods, knit collars and cuffs, zipper fronts and drawstring bottoms -- will be plotting a salty new course in wide-weave cotton and denim blends of solid sunburst hues, high-key stripes, and boldly block-patterned signal-flag designs. Also welcomed aboard: a hardy crew of foul-weather friends -- water-repellent zippered pullover jackets and hooded slicker-coats in bantamweight man-made fibers, some lined with neutral-toned terrycloth, others with warm but weightless laminates, all in beacon-bright shades of electric yellow, red, blue and orange. The summer sweater shipment will be on board with deep-V, turtleneck and cardigan styles (some sans collars) in lightweight, heavy-duty mixtures of Orlon and cotton which not only insulate or ventilate as needed, but weather storms and salt spray virtually unscathed.

On the shirtwear horizon, keep a lookout for three significant silhouettes; the monochrome duck pullover in sand brown, denim blue, sea green and classic white; the dressed-up cotton T-shirt, both V- and crew-necked, in solid shades and striped variations on the navy-and-white theme; and the traditional boating shirt in full-cut button-front and pullover styles, usually of porous knit fibers and emblazoned on the breast pocket with a maritime emblem. A pair of eminently practical trouser styles will be enjoying the run of the ship from transom to bowsprit: white duck slacks, a returning classic from the Twenties; and tapered, ankle-length deck pants (most with inseam ankle vents for freedom of action) in unimpeachable black and shades of blue, tan, off-white and olive. Hitting the deck smartly will be a colorful array of surefooted yachting shoes in canvas, duck and in elegantly functional weatherproofed natural elk with standard rubber soles.

For his trips ashore, the knowing yachtsman will garb himself thus: during the day, of course, almost any boating outfit -- deck pants with knitted pullover, walk shorts with sport shirt -- is considered correct, even at clubs and marinas known for their sartorial propriety after dusk. The new waist-length sport shirt, in air-conditioned blends of tropic-toned cotton and Dacron, has a well-groomed but comfortably casual look which promises to dominate the daytime shorewear scene; worn outside coordinated slacks or shorts, it's available as a straight-bottomed pullover with side vents and in coat-front styles with elasticized waistband or side adjustments -- both with a variety of Continental and regulation stay collars. From the cocktail hour onward, slacks rather than shorts are called for, in combination with open shirt, ascot and lightweight cardigan or pullover sweater for handsome protection from unseasonably cool evening breezes.

In the more urbane environs of such watering places as Newport and Coronado, etiquette requires a degree of decorum which offers the waterborne visitor a matchless opportunity to accouter himself with studied informality in the classic uniform of the international yachtsman. The trimly tailored new line of blazers will be cutting a figure of impeccable correctness on beach and boardwalk in both single-and double-breasted models of linen, silk, tropicals and lightweight wool, with cool solid shades of Mediterranean blue, green, red and yellow vying with old-guard navy for fashion favor.

Tradition continues to prevail in evenings-ashore shirting preferences: low-keyed to counterpoint the beach-umbrella hues of blazerwear, standard button-front styles with simple medium-spread or convertible collars will remain firmly in charge. As always, the tastefully figured silk ascot will be the indispensable, indisputably appropriate accessory; or if the occasion demands, a solid knit or striped cotton tie of suitably subdued cast. Rich fabrics and outlandish patterns have no place in the nautical tie wardrobe. Slacks for land wear will be more tailored than their seafaring counterparts: reed-slim and Ivy-oriented with conventional side pockets, cuffed legs and pleatless fronts. Belted and beltless models (side-tabbed or elasticized) will share equal billing in light gabs and flannels of compound cotton mixtures closely coordinated with the weaves and tones of the bright new blazer jackets. Finally, make a footnote to pack a pair of leather-soled loafers or Continentally styled slip-ons for candlelit dinners and moonlit dancing ashore.