Grooming Gear

It is a truism that clothes alone don't make the man, and the corollary is equally apparent: good clothes are an indispensable aid in helping the man make it — socially, professionally and purely personally in the realm of esprit and self-esteem. Of virtually equal importance is meticulous grooming — as opposed to mere cleanliness — since good grooming, no less than good manners and tasteful attire, goes far to enhance the total impression of the total man.

The adult urbane man, in his evolution from ring-around-the-neck boyhood, evolves a fairly automatic routine of bathing, shaving, toothbrushing, nail-clipping, cleaning, etc. If these activities are thought of at all, it is in terms of a not especially joyful routine. It need not and should not be so: the art of being perfectly groomed — and looking it — is easily achieved, with accompanying pleasures, with a bit of extra attention to proper gear, pleasing surroundings in which to employ it, and a modicum of extra know-how which is readily acquired.

The man's bathroom itself is worthy of the same attention as he may devote to his bedroom. Generally, we favor white or light-colored walls, with boldly contrasting bath mat, shower curtain and towels in such colors as deep blue, brown, green, red. (Light-colored walls make for good lighting — another essential to the properly equipped bathroom.)

The grooming gear should be comparable in quality and variety to that illustrated here — soaps, shavers, scrub brushes, hairbrushes, combs, after-shave, cologne, etc., i.e., all that may be necessary or desirable for the rites of the bath. The appurtenances, such as scale, sun lamp, soap dishes, hamper, towel racks and rings, etc., should be as luxuriously functional as one may obtain; there is an almost sensual pleasure in using such equipment daily, and to the degree that tangibles can do so, properly posh paraphernalia goes far toward promoting a feeling of well-being.

Most men these days prefer the shower to the tub. We are firm believers in both, since there are bound to be times when the suffusing warmth of a steaming tub in winter, or the indolent refreshment of a cooling tub in summer, is not replaceable by any shower so far conceived. After a particularly grueling day at the office, or active outdoor sport, total relaxation in a tub for 15 or 20 minutes can do more to ease the nerves and sinews than even the most dulcet shower.

A shower should, of course, be equipped with a head which is manually adjustable from gentle rain to deluge to needle spray. Each man will suit himself as to temperature and force of spray, but it may help you evolve a more satisfying procedure if you note these pointers.

In winter, take your shower as hot as you want it, but always turn it toward cool before emerging so that you will not step out into a chill workaday world with pores open. In summer, remember that an invigorating needlepoint cold or cool shower may make you feel refreshed while you are in it, but it tends to close the pores and stimulate blood circulation, and you may feel more discomfort from heat after it than you would if you stayed a bit longer in a cool (not cold) sluicing deluge.

Toweling has a great deal to do with the beneficent effects of showering. If the aim is to "stiffen the sinews, summon up the blood," as Shakespeare has it (admittedly in another connection), then towel vigorously with a friction towel. If the aim is to keep cool and calm, make use of a large, absorbent Grooming Gear (continued) terrycloth towel and pat, rather than rub. Let final moisture evaporate from the skin, either in the buff or while you wear a terrycloth robe.

When the weather is cool, a daily laving, tub or shower, night or morning, should take care of your hygienic needs and keep you feeling fresh. When the weather is warm, a shower or tub in the morning and when you get back from work will do much to keep you feeling cool and collected.

For those inevitable mornings after and early risings with insufficient sleep, we advise starting the shower tolerably warm while you lather and rinse, then sharpening up the spray and lowering the temperature until you attain that hydrotherapeutic shock which — even though it may be accompanied by involuntary yelps — does much to overcome the torpor of awakening.

Après le déluge, especially during the hot months, a gentleman uses stick, cream, powder, or liquid deodorants or antiperspirants — and there is a great difference between them. If you tend to perspire heavily, you may prefer an antiperspirant. If you are conscious of — or self-conscious about — (concluded on page 109) Grooming Gear (continued from page 38) the possibility of a male aroma, you will probably want to try the deodorants. For most men, antiperspirants do the trick. Tip: make sure your underarms are thoroughly dry before donning your shirt; though most antiperspirants and deodorants do not damage fabrics (and you should check labels concerning the makers' guaranties in this respect), harm to fabrics is far more likely to occur if the underarm application you use is damp or tacky when you dress.

To further enhance your freshly bathed feeling and sense of sparkling cleanliness, you may wish to make use of a drop or two of men's cologne. If so, shun the sweet scents in favor of citrus or woodsy or spice-based tang.

Most men shampoo while showering — which is a good idea. Too many men use their bath soap for this purpose, and we recommend that they promptly switch to shampoo. In selecting the shampoo, be guided by your hair type — dry, normal or oily. For dry hair, seek a brand of shampoo containing lanolin; if your scalp tends to be sensitive or to flake, use a shampoo containing a germicidal agent. In any case, lather copiously and rub vigorously, twice, with a complete rinsing in between, making certain that the final rinse is thorough.

Once you've dried your hair, you'll probably want to apply a tonic or dressing suitable to your hair type: creams, oils and glycerine-based ones for dry hair, alcohol-based ones for oily hair. An important part of hair care is daily brushing with a fairly stiff-bristled hairbrush. The scalp is more readily stimulated if you start at the back of the neck and brush up and over your head — regardless of what hair style you prefer. A lively massage with an electric vibrator is an alternative to brushing.

A final word about hair care, this not self-administered, but definitely important for you to be aware of. Patronize the very best barbershop you can find, and find one barber therein who knows how you like your hair cut and will take the time and effort required to trim it without use of razor or clippers. Then regularly avail yourself of his ministrations so that you will fulfill this criterion of looking like a gentleman: "He never looks as if he needs a haircut; he never looks as if he's just had one."

Time and direction are the two big deals in toothbrushing, with dentifrices a matter of secondary importance. Virtually all standard brands of dentifrice do a good job and you won't go far wrong selecting by flavor alone. Same with mouthwashes and rinses, though most dentists warn against using the powerfully germicidal ones except in recommended dilution. But more important than these is the brushing itself, properly accomplished with the sides of the bristles, not the tips, and with to-and-fro massage action starting above the gum line and swinging down from the top teeth, up from the lowers. If you're the hurry-up type, you'll want to investigate electric toothbrushes, which give you the equivalent of thorough hand brushing in a fraction of the time.

We hereby secede from the razor controversy. It's our belief that a man should have both an electric razor and a regular razor. In fact, we favor two electric razors, one to be kept in the office for a fast facial cleanup if you're going out for the evening without stopping off at home first, or if you have an important cocktail or business appointment. Most men feel they can get a closer shave with lather and blade, rather than with an electric shaver. This may be a matter of habit, or of technique. Those using a bladed razor should be aware that the best of shaving creams (tube, bomb or hard-milled-soap lather to be used with brush) cannot do a proper job without a thorough face-washing first. Then, all soap should be removed with a thorough rinse. If you have oily skin, two washes and two rinses may do more than one to soften the beard and prepare it for shaving. Many men have found that a splash of skin-bracer or even after-shave lotion, applied after the rinse and before the shaving preparation, helps keep the face hairs erect and ready for effective cutting. Wielders of straight razors need no admonition to keep their razors well stropped. Safety razor blades should be changed before each shave.

The electric razor, too, does better when the face has been cleansed of all natural oils. However, your electric razor will perform better on a thoroughly dry beard. For wielders of the electric razor there are talcs and preshave lotions which achieve the desired condition before you zizz away the whiskers.

We're all in favor of after-shave lotions, provided they are not heavily scented and that what scent they do have is bracingly fresh rather than fragrant. They not only remove the last vestiges of lather, but they cleanse those microscopic nicks which are virtually unavoidable, and they close the pores and cool the face while they evaporate.

Too many chaps, otherwise impeccably groomed, neglect their hands. There are odorless, lanolin-based hand creams which, if regularly applied, will prevent a chap's chapping his paws in the coldest weather. Thorough drying after washing, application of lotion and the wearing of gloves whenever one is outdoors all help keep hands in good condition throughout winter's rigors.

We recommend fairly regular sessions with the manicurist in your barbershop. Between her ministrations, clippers and emery boards will keep your nails the proper shape and length. Never clean nails with metal; this abrades the under-surfaces and lets dirt accumulate more easily. An orange stick is the thing.

A tip on toenail care: clip them short and straight across, to avoid ingrown nails and the snagging of socks.

And now, groomed from head to toe, you're bound to be the best man.