The Salad Bowl ... Bellissima!

Italians positively relish disagreeing about food. There are northern Italians in Piemonte and Lombardia, for instance, who cherish their daily risotto yet shun all of Italy's 300-odd kinds of pasta. All unite, however, in shouting a resounding bravo when it comes to salads. The reason is obvious. So wide and deep is their salad bowl, and so completely unbound by convention, that the possibilities are unlimited.

In concocting the Italian salad, every dissident has his day. It's almost impossible to name an edible root, herb, tuber, leaf or spice that at one time or another hasn't found its way into the eclectic insalata. In what other country will you find a salad made of bread? Yes, hard bread soaked in water, gently squeezed dry, then tossed with olive oil, wine vinegar, chopped celery hearts, onion and peppers. On what other shores would you be able to order a salad made of baby octopus? Or of red kidney beans, green olives, raw mushrooms or white truffles? Walk into a ristorante. Time and again you'll notice on the menu a salad capriccioso. It goes without saying that no two works of caprice can possibly be alike, even if their creators want them to be. And this is the boundless charm of their salads.

For bachelor chefs, the most salutary effect of the Italian salad ritual is its complete informality. It is virtually impossible to maintain a formal demeanor while mopping up red wine dressing with a heel of hard bread. In warmish weather, a salad meal usurps comparatively little of your time. When appetites are feeling the usual ennui of midsummer, the Italian salad serves a twofold pleasurable purpose, being both appetizer and green mixture at once. (Many of the marinated salads, such as raw mushroom or roasted pepper, of course, grace the antipasto tray all year long.)

French chefs tend to be esthetes about their salads. They give them poetic or pretentious names like Salade Beatrice or Salade Diplomate. Their lettuce leaves are often neat nests, on which they arrange parallel rows of beets, cucumbers and celery in a perfect geometric pattern. But Italians get right down to what psychologists of an older school used to call the lower senses -- taste, touch (continued on page 101)Bellissima! (continued from page 44) and smell. Their peppers, escarole, basil, dandelion, salami and provolone are all tossed in a riotous parade that has neither beginning nor end. Their salads are no less an art because they are so earthy.

Think, for a moment, of the many ways an Italian handles a simple element of taste -- salt. Elsewhere, most salad men are content to spray their greens with plain table salt, and let it go at that. The Italian carefully dissolves his salt in his red vinegar before the salad is mixed so that the solution is sure to reach every bite of finochio, every small leaf of watercress. For another kind of saltiness, he mashes anchovies to a smooth paste, and then adds it to his dressing. When capers are called for, he prefers the salted dry variety rather than those steeped in vinegar. Frequently, he flavors his salad with grated parmesan cheese. Somehow the salty tang of the cheese is never over-powering, but turns everything into a mature, ravishing blend. Frequently, olives pop up in salads, their crisp brininess the coolest kind of complement.

Perhaps the only food the Italian regards with genuine reverence is his olive oil. It must be virgin oil -- that is, oil taken from the first pressing of the olives. He prefers his native, heavier oil rather than the more expensive but lighter French or Spanish oils. For vinegar, the grapelike astringency of red or white wine vinegar reigns over all others.

Even the truffles in an Italian salad have a rich, earthbound flavor. In Italy, one eats both the fresh and the canned white truffles (actually light brown in color). They can be bought in Italian gourmet stores in this country. Unlike the black truffles of France, which are extremely mild in taste but superb for accenting other foods, the Italian white truffles are a self-contained delight to the tongue. Rossini, the composer, once wrote that he'd discovered something much more exciting than a new opera score -- a salad dressing containing mustard, vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper and finely chopped truffles.

Few salad makers in the world can vie with Italians in the use of herbs. Generally speaking, the flavors of most dried herbs are imprisoned within the leaves, and only released when the herbs are heated. A bright exception to this rule is dried oregano, an herb that, in this country at least, is most closely identified with pizza. Its aroma has such staying power, Italians say, because it was once touched by the hand of Venus herself. You can verify its perfume by sprinkling a small amount into any green salad. The very first bite will tell you that this is the Italian accent at its best. Now, in midsummer, fresh basil, fresh thyme, fresh tarragon and fresh chervil are available. Like fresh parsley, they should all be finely chopped to permit their flavors to burgeon in the bowl. They may be used more generously than dried herbs because they are gentler.

As insalata impresario, it isn't necessary to go dramatic in order to win accolades for your salads. You don't need a three-foot pepper mill for artillery. No code requires you to lift your salad fork and spoon, testing them for balance like weapons of honor. Sage guidance may be taken from the old proverb, Insalata ben salata, ben lavata, poco aceto, ben oliata (A good salad should be well salted, well washed, mixed with a small amount of vinegar and a large amount of oil). We would amend that proverb to include the reminder that salad greens should not only be well washed but also thoroughly dried, and that a small amount of vinegar means about one part vinegar to three or four parts oil. The only other requirement is a soaring imagination.

[recipe_title]Shrimp Risotto Salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]1 lb. shrimp, boiled[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]2 hard-boiled eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon anchovy paste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sharp mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon onion salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon ground sage[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons white wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]4-oz. jar artichoke hearts in oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups cooked rice (about 2/3 cup raw rice)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pimientos, 1/2-in. dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup diced celery hearts[/recipe]

[recipe]2 scallions, 1/4-in. slices[/recipe]

[recipe]Lettuce leaves[/recipe]

Remove shells and veins from shrimp. Cut shrimp crosswise into 1-in. pieces. Cut each tomato and each hard-boiled egg into quarters. Be sure ingredients, including rice, are ice cold. In a salad bowl combine anchovy paste, mustard, onion salt, pepper, sage and vinegar. Stir until well blended. Slowly stir in olive oil. Drain artichoke hearts. Add their oil to bowl. Add rice, artichoke hearts, shrimp, pimientos, celery and scallions. Toss well. Line cold dinner plates with lettuce leaves. Pile salad mixture in center. Place tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs alternately around each portion of salad.

[recipe_title]Greens With Salami And Provolone[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]2 large cut cloves garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon onion salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon red wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon sharp mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. thinly sliced Genoa salami[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. sliced provolone cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup chicory, 1-in. pieces[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup finochio, thin slices[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup escarole, 1-in. pieces[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup Belgian endive, 1-in. pieces[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup watercress[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon salted capers[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive condite, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

Rub salad bowl well with garlic. Discard garlic. Dissolve onion salt in vinegar in salad bowl. Slowly add oil, pepper and mustard, stirring well. Cut salami and provolone into thin julienne strips about 1 in. long. Add to bowl. Add all remaining ingredients. Toss well. Add more vinegar or oil if desired.

[recipe_title]Mushroom And Ham Antipasto Salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]6 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large cloves garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons white wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon fresh basil, chopped fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. fresh white mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. sliced boiled ham[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. white truffles[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup minced celery hearts[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Heat oil in a saucepan over low flame. Smash cloves of garlic slightly and add them to the oil. Sauté until garlic turns brown. Discard garlic. Pour oil and vinegar into mixing bowl. Add basil. Remove mushroom caps from stems. Cut mushroom caps into slices about 1/8 in. thick. (Mushroom stems may be used for another cooking purpose.) Cut ham into very thin julienne strips, about 1 in. long. Cut truffles into very thin slices. Add mushrooms, ham, truffles and celery to bowl. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Toss well. Chill in refrigerator. Let mixture marinate at least two hours before serving.

[recipe_title]Cucumber And Ricotta Salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]2 medium-size cucumbers[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup ricotta cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon finely chopped chives[/recipe]

[recipe]1 head Boston lettuce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup thinly sliced white radishes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup pepper salad in oil[/recipe]

[recipe]8 oil-preserved ripe olives[/recipe]

[recipe]2-oz. can rolled anchovies with capers[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon red wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Peel cucumbers and cut each one in half lengthwise. Scrape seeds from cucumbers, leaving oval shells. Mix ricotta cheese and chives. Fill cucumber shells with cheese mixture. Sprinkle with salt. Set aside. Break lettuce into pieces about 1 in. square. In a mixing bowl toss the lettuce, radishes, pepper salad, olives, anchovies with their oil, and vinegar. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add more oil or vinegar if desired. Spoon salad mixture onto cold serving plates. Place cucumbers on top of salad.

[recipe_title]Tuna Fish, White Truffle And Potato Salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]1 lb. small new potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon white wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon white pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sharp mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced chives[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]7-oz. can tuna fish in olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size cucumber[/recipe]

[recipe]3-oz. can white truffles[/recipe]

[recipe]Lettuce leaves[/recipe]

Boil potatoes in their jackets until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Do not overcook. In mixing bowl combine vinegar, salt, pepper and mustard. Mix very well. Add thyme, parsley, chives and olive oil slowly, stirring well. Peel potatoes while still warm. Add at once, while warm, to vinegar mixture. Toss well. Chill in refrigerator. Break tuna fish into large chunks, reserving oil. Peel cucumber, and cut into 1/4-in. cubes. Cut truffles into thin slices. Add tuna fish with its oil, cucumber and truffles to potatoes. Toss well. Line a salad bowl or serving plate with lettuce. Pile salad in center.

After sampling any of these superb insalate, your guests should echo the sentiments of that renowned Italian, Roberto Luigi Stevenson, who waxed lyrical over the "Wine-scented and poetic soul/Of the capacious salad bowl."