Fowl Deeds

In the most salubrious sense, the brisk weather of midautumn is definitely for the birds. Loyal beefeaters, the kind who are the first to admit they wouldn't recognize a live woodcock if it flew right into their whiskey sours, are now eagerly awaiting roast guinea hen and plump capons stuffed with truffles. Certainly, if France's Henry IV were alive today, he'd feel foolish suggesting a mere chicken in every pot. His fiat would include boneless chicken à la Kiev, rock cornish game hens, hazel hens, squab, grouse and fresh and smoked pheasant, to cite only a partial roster of the rich -- and richly various -- poultry fare which is now any man's for the asking.

It should be explained that most "wild" fowl wending their way to market these days are not there because of the hunter's prowess. Raised in the cushiony confines of game preserves, they can now be found in frozen niches right alongside their domestic cousins. If you're a bachelor padded down outside the great urban areas, you can still mail order pheasant, partridge, or the like, with pleasurable ease. Preliminary to making a choice, prospective poultry chefs should always remember that flying fowl such as mallard ducks or partridge are blessed with a gamy, tart flavor. The flesh of grounded birds -- domestic ducks and geese, for example -- is milder, more mellow. As with sour cream and sweet cream, each has its rabid partisans.

For many centuries, bird gourmandise was wrapped in a tradition of florid elegance. A welter of hoopla always accompanied Roman dinners of domestic and wild fowl. The emperor Heliogabalus was satisfied with no less than 600 ostrich brains at a single dinner. During the Middle Ages, manorial tables were festooned with platters of roast peacock, gaudily garnished with the bird's own plumage. When this was no longer terribly au courant, noblemen trying to keep ahead of the Sir Joneses instructed their royal stewards to serve roast peacock covered with a carat garni of pure gold leaf. In the last century, gourmets used to compare notes on the relative merits of flamingo and roast kiwi. First-hand experience, however, has shown that the flavors of such exotica as roast peacock, and parrot pie are nothing to crow about.

Today, fowl fetes are no longer burdened with this aura of effete delicacy. Certainly, it would be hard to find (continued on page 177)Fowl Deeds(continued from page 105) in the whole animal kingdom a more robust meat than roast Watertown goose served on a mound of moist apple stuffing, or the provocative flavor of braised pheasant with fresh mushrooms. Among the most munificent gifts of the smokehouse, outranking even ham for some, is sliced smoked turkey.

Not too many years ago the job of telling a good bird from a bad one involved so many ritualistic impedimenta that bachelors were glad to turn the assignment over to knowledgeable lady friends who were supposedly better versed in bird divination. All you have to do today is select a brand-name packager's bird: the fowl hierarchy of the well-known imprimaturs is almost always magnificently tender eating, since poulterers no longer wait upon seasonal demands, but send their genetically controlled flocks to their last roundup when the flesh is at its prime, then stash the birds in the deepfreeze until needed.

Bird nomenclature is simple enough for even the fledgling chef to grasp. All young chickens, for instance, from 1-1/2 to 3-1/2 pounds are known as broiler-fryers. They can be used not only for broiling and frying but for barbecuing and roasting and even for stewing if you're in a hurry. Hens over a year old are called "fowl" in the limited sense of the term, and should be used only for boiling or stewing. A male bird which has been desexed is a capon. Needless to say, for sacrificing his masculinity the capon is compensated with the most full-bodied flavor of the whole flock.

Whether any kind of roast bird retains its flavorsome juices depends in large measure on what you do with it on the fire. Wild ducks are cooked a mere 15 or 20 minutes to the bloody rare stage. Domestic ducks are kept on the fire until they are fork tender. Continental chefs test a roast bird to see if it's done by jabbing a fork into the thickest part of the flesh. If the juice that flows is pink, the bird is not yet at its peak (except, as we said, in the case of wild duck). If it's white, the bird is just right. If there's no juice, the cook has committed poultrycide.

Stuffing and trussing are twin poultry puzzles to which amateur chefs sometimes give more attention than they deserve. Actually, a stuffing needn't find its way inside the bird at all: most often it's just as good if it's baked in a separate casserole, kept on the fire only for the time needed for cooking the stuffing, rather than the time needed for roasting the bird. The two don't always coincide. Trussing poultry simply means tying the drumsticks so that the bird's shape will be more compact during roasting. To truss a bird you tie the ends of the legs together with a length of butcher's cord, making a figure eight to hold the legs, then tie together the ends of the cord under the body in front. If the bird is thawed, the butcher will truss it for you. Many birds are roasted without trussing; as long as the oven temperature is low, the results are uniformly good.

In carving birds, you are counseled to use a knife with a razor-sharp edge. The poultry-wise man knows that the flesh of tender capons, ducks and geese, under the stress of a dull blade, will break into loose chunks. One of the handiest of all cooking and dining utensils is a pair of poultry shears, especially useful for portioning small-and medium-size roasters.

A regal bird is worthy of a fanfare of introductory fare. For a prologue, offer fresh caviar, the kind that makes you consult your bank balance, or iced, freshly opened oysters on the half shell -- each with a dab of fresh caviar -- or a fresh crab meat and avocado cocktail. If you tender a soup course instead of the appetizer (don't overwhelm your guests' palates with both), let it be one of the lighter bouillons.

If the wine obbligato is to be domestic, many lean toward the New York State wines of the Finger Lakes region, noted for their "foxiness" -- a slightly fruity flavor reminiscent of the mature grape eaten right off the vine. Other poultry savants will accept nothing less than the most aristocratic of the white Burgundies à la Montrachet. The 1959 vintage has now matured, and is one of this century's most superb French wines.

And now to our fine feathered friends.

[recipe_title]Roast Capon[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]8 to 9 lb. capon[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup madeira[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup tomato juice[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons arrowroot or cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]Brown gravy color[/recipe]

Remove all fat from capon. Wash and dry the bird. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Preheat oven at 450°. Place capon, breast side up, on a wire rack in a shallow roasting pan. Roast 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°. Roast, without turning, until capon is tender, about three hours total cooking time. From time to time remove accumulated fat in pan. When capon is done, remove bird from pan. Again remove any fat. Let brown drippings remain. Pour chicken broth, madeira and tomato juice into pan. Place pan over top flame, bring to a boil. Reduce flame and simmer 10 minutes. Dissolve arrowroot or cornstarch in 1/4 cup cold water. Slowly add to simmering liquid in pan, stirring until gravy is thickened. Add salt and pepper to taste. If gravy flavor seems weak, add one or two packets instant chicken broth. Add brown gravy color if necessary. Carve capon. Place slices on mounds of truffle stuffing, recipe below. Spoon gravy over capon. Pass balance of gravy in sauceboat.

[recipe_title]Truffle Stuffing[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]2 quarts stale bread cubes[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium onions, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]7/8-oz. can black truffles, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 teaspoons salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon powdered sage[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon leaf marjoram[/recipe]

[recipe]Paprika[/recipe]

Make bread crumbs out of 1 quart of bread cubes, using an electric blender. Soak remaining bread cubes in cold water. Squeeze very gently to remove excess water. Melt butter in a saucepan. Add onions, celery and 1/2 cup water. Simmer slowly until celery is tender. Avoid browning onions. In a mixing bowl combine bread cubes, crumbs, onions, celery, truffles, salt, pepper, sage and marjoram. Toss well. Put stuffing into a greased casserole or baking dish. Sprinkle lightly with paprika. Bake uncovered in oven at 350° 1 hour until top is browned.

[recipe_title]Roast Goose[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]1 goose, 10 to 12 lbs.[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 carrots, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]12 sprigs parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. apple brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup tomato juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Brown gravy color[/recipe]

Wash the bird. Dry well. Refrigerate goose in a pan, overnight, with the onion, carrots, celery and parsley. Keep covered. The aroma of the vegetables will enhance the goose flavor. Set vegetables aside and place goose, breast, side up, on a wire rack in an uncovered roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast in oven preheated at 450°. After 1/2 hour, reduce heat to 350°. Continue to roast, allowing about 18 minutes per pound. From time to time remove accumulated fat in pan. When goose is half done, add vegetables. Continue to roast until bird is very tender. Again remove fat from pan, but save drippings. Remove bird from pan. Add chicken broth, wine and brandy to pan. Bring liquid to a boil over top flame. Simmer 10 minutes. Dissolve flour in tomato juice, making sure there are no lumps. Slowly stir into simmering gravy. Add brown gravy color if necessary. Add salt and pepper to taste. If flavor of gravy seems weak, add one or two packets instant chicken broth.

Strain gravy. Place slices of goose over apple stuffing, recipe below. Pour gravy over each portion.

[recipe_title]Apple Stuffing[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]2 quarts stale bread cubes[/recipe]

[recipe]4 Delicious apples, peeled and cored[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium onions, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]Liver from goose[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup minced fresh parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced fine, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 teaspoons salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon monosodium glutamate seasoning[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs, well beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]Paprika[/recipe]

Soak bread in cold water. Squeeze very gently to remove excess water. Cut each apple into sixths. Cut crosswise into 1/4-in. slices. Melt butter in a wide saucepan over a low flame. Add apples, onions and goose liver. Sauté, covered, until apples are just tender. Don't cook to a mush. Cut liver into very small dice. In a mixing bowl combine bread, liver, apples, onions, parsley, thyme, salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate and eggs. Toss well. Turn mixture into a casserole or shallow baking pan. Sprinkle with paprika. Bake in oven at 350° 1 hour or until top is browned.

[recipe_title]Broiled Deviled Duckling[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]4-1/2-to-5-lb. duckling, cut up for stewing[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large onions[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery[/recipe]

[recipe]8 large sprigs parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons bottled sauce Diable[/recipe]

[recipe]Brown gravy color[/recipe]

[recipe]Dijon mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]Bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Paprika[/recipe]

Place duckling in a large pot with onions, celery, parsley, bay leaf, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cover with cold water. Bring to a boil. Skim well. Reduce flame. Simmer slowly until duckling is tender, about 1 to 1-1/4 hours. Remove duckling pieces from broth. Strain broth. Skim fat from broth. Chill duckling in refrigerator. Melt butter in a saucepan. Remove from flame. Stir in flour. Slowly stir in 1-1/2 cups hot duck broth and sauce Diable. Bring to a boil. Reduce flame. Simmer 10 minutes. Add brown gravy color. Preheat broiler flame. Remove all skin and fat from pieces of duckling. Brush with mustard. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dip in bread crumbs, coating each piece thoroughly.

Sprinkle with oil and paprika. Broil until brown on both sides. Pour hot sauce on plates or platter. Place duckling on sauce.

[recipe_title]Pheasant Sauté with Mushrooms[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]3-1/2-lb. pheasant, cut for stewing[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. sliced fresh mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dry sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon tarragon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon chervil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon onion salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup white bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, white pepper[/recipe]

Heat butter and oil in a wide saucepan until butter melts. Sauté pheasant until light brown. Add mushrooms. Sauté until mushrooms are tender. Add sherry, chicken broth, tarragon, chervil and onion salt. Simmer slowly until pheasant is tender, about 1 hour. Add light cream. Simmer 5 minutes more. Remove from flame. Stir in bread crumbs, which will thicken the sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste.

[recipe_title]Breast of Guinea Hen with Chestnuts[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]6 breasts of guinea hen (3 whole breasts without bone)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]6 round slices ham, 1 oz. each[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup port wine[/recipe]

[recipe]12-oz. can clear chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]10-3/4-oz. can brown gravy[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons minced chives[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon chervil[/recipe]

[recipe]11-oz. can whole chestnuts in water[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]6 slices toast[/recipe]

Heat butter and salad oil in a wide saucepan over a moderate flame until butter melts. Add ham. Sauté 1 minute on each side. Remove ham from pan. Keep in a warm place. Sauté guinea hen in same pan until light brown on both sides. Add brandy. Set it ablaze. When flames subside, add wine, chicken broth, brown gravy, chives and chervil. Simmer 10 minutes. Drain chestnuts and break into large pieces. Add to pan. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes longer. Season gravy with salt and pepper. Place toast on serving plates or platter. Place ham on toast, then guinea hen. Spoon chestnuts and gravy on top of guinea hen. Serve very hot. Chicken breasts may be substituted for the guinea hen if desired.

Whichever of these recherché birds in hand graces your groaning board, you can be sure that your fowl play will reap its reward in your guests' compliments coming home to roost.