The Christmas Dinner Flambé

Building a lusty yule log fire and taking your winter evening's ease with a hot punch are among the more gemütlich gambits of the holiday season. But nothing warms the culinary cockies of an epicurean's heart as much as the festively flavorsome pyrotechnics of setting good food ablaze. Mastery of the blue flames that burn below and above a chafing dish was once thought to be the exclusive craft of dining-room captains and incorrigible show-offs. Actually, Continental chefs working at their ranges were blazing foods long before cherries Jubilee were kindled at the Carlton in London. To this day in the kitchens of any busy bistro you will see beacons of light constantly flaring above the sauté pans as chefs prepare lobster Americaine, chicken with Armagnac and countless other dishes of the classic cuisine. To cook without blazing spirits would be like cooking without butter or cream or stock.

Liquor of all types imbues any food with a luxurious offbeat quality. As the luminous flames play over the pans, the volumes of liquor reduces rapidly. It's this concentrated flavor that transfuses each dish with a special piquant character. Delicate crepes filled with apricots are one thing. The same crepes sautéed in butter and then set ablaze with 10-year-old calvados are as markedly different from the original as a hot toddy is from liquor served neat.

In your own digs, it's hard to say which of the two, eating or firewatching, is more fun. Certainly, the aureoles around such heavenly bodies as northern lobster, ring-necked pheasant and soufflé omelets rate all the attention they arouse.

First-rate fireworks must be brief and carried off with flair as well as flare. Keep in mind that alcohol burns; water doesn't. The proof of the liquid, therefore, shares importance with the flavor. it imparts. Sherry and other cooking wines with their low proofs (usually less than 20) can be made to blaze, but the pyrotechnics are feeble and fleeting. Spirits such as 60-proof liqueurs will burn only briefly and then expire, especially if they're mingled with juice-laden frozen strawberries, peaches or similar fruit. For a more radiant fire, the lower-proof liqueurs are often mixed with unsweetened true fruit brandies such as 100-proof kirsch or 100-proof mirabelle. Similarly, 100-proof bourbon whiskey will naturally send up a more brilliant flare than 86-proof. The most magnificent blaze of all comes from 151-proof Demerara rum, used alone or in combination with other rums. Knowledgeable firemen always check the proof on the bottle. (The old colonial custom of testing proof by mixing alcohol with gunpowder and then checking the size of the explosion isn't recommended for apartment chefs.)

A cardinal rule for lights that won't fail: All foods and their liquors must be kept warm over a low, dutiful flame before they're ignited in the chafing dish. But don't have the pan too hot. If you pour a fourth of a cup of brandy into an electric skillet heated to 400 degrees, the liquor will evaporate so fast that you'll hardly have time to set a match to it. You could pour a whole cup of brandy into the pan, but this would be overplaying a good hand. Simply keep the skillet at 200 degrees, the temperature that's best for blazing purposes.

Relatively dry foods like chicken blaze easily. Others like oysters or scallops, which throw off their own pool of liquid during cooking, will dampen the ardor of any fire before it can get started. In such cases, it's best to flame the liquor in a small chafing dish or saucepan on the side, and then pour the burned liquor into the larger chafing dish after the flames have subsided. When cream, tomatoes or any sauce is part of a recipe, the blaze must be it lit before the sauce is added.

Some chefs start the blaze by either moving the pan in a rapid circular motion or tipping it slightly while moving it back and forth, which brings the alcohol fumes and the under flame into combustible contact. Other firebuffs simply hold a lighted match above the warm spirits. Extra-long matches are available as special tinder for chafing dishes.

Equipment for flambéeing needn't be confined to the standard chafing dish. The smaller-size electric skillet is a perfect piece of fire equipment, provided you avoid extreme heat when flambéeing. Hibachi stoves with copper saucepans above them also are excellent props. And any fireproof shallow casserole or copper pan may be used above a source of heat (alcohol burner or tin of canned heat) set in a trivet.

At this time of year, cheerful flames may be seen hovering about edibles and potables ranging from cocktail sausages café brulôt. Many of the blazing delicacies may be made without reference to a receipe. Seafood hors d'oeuvres, such as smoked oysters or smoked clams, need only be drained, heated in a tablespoon of their own oil and then set ablaze with rum or brandy. Smoked mussels, flambéed with aquavit, are a bright introductory note to the holiday smorgasbord. The same easy procedure is used with cocktail sausages and with such litde fishes as French mackerel in white wine, suitably drained, and boneless and skinless sardines.

Huge roasts are glorified with blazing spirits. Roast sugar-cured ham with its ruddy glaze is flamed with 100-proof bourbon before carving. The hot ham is set in a long, shallow copper or earthern casserole that has been heated. Naturally, the amount of bourbon needed depends upon the surface size of the casserole. From one to two tumblers of hot bourbon should be poured over a ham of respectable dimensions.

Even that classic beef dish, steak Diane, long ago passed its ordeal by fire. The minute steak is sautéed and served with its own pan juices spiked with Worcestershire. To loosen the pan drippings, a generous dollop of brandy is poured into the pan and flambéed. After the burning at the steak, the sizzling gravy is spooned over the meat on the platter. Similar fire rites are followed for calf's liver and lamb steak.

Two desserts that make fine flameboyant fare require nothing more difficult than the purchasing of pumpkin pie and branded fruitcake. The pie is warmed in a moderate oven for about 10 minutes and then set aflame with three ounces of hot rum poured on top. The fruitcake should be ring-shaped. In the center of the ring, a metal cup, or any other suitable piece of flameware, holds burning brandy that is spooned over each slice of cake.

For a truly dramatic, richly romantic Christmas dinner, nothing can equal the sheer victual virtuosity of a menu made up entirely of well-matched, flame-bedecked dishes. Each of the following recipes serves four festive celebrants.

[recipe_title]Onion Soup Flambé[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 quart thinly sliced onions[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves of garlic minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 quart plus 1 pint chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]12 thin slices narrow French bread toasted[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices process loaf Swiss cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]Grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]Paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. 100-proof bourbon[/recipe]

Melt butter in soup pot. Add onion and garlic. Sauté slowly, stirring frequently, until onions are a deep yellow, not brown. Add broth. Simmer 20 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper. Pour soup into four marmites. Add chicken broth or stock if necessary to fill marmites. Preheat oven at 425°. Float three slices bread on top each portion soup. Place a slice of cheese on bread. Sprinkle generously with parmesan cheese. Sprinkle lightly with paprika and oil. Place marmites in a baking pan with about 1/2 in. water. Bake about 20 minutes or until top is well browned. Remove marmites from oven and place on a silver platter. At the table, spoon an ounce of bourbon slowly atop each portion. Set ablaze. Cool your lips between sips of the peppery soup with a well chilled bottle of Chablis.

[recipe_title]Lobster Provencale[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 1 1/2-Ib. northern lobsters, boiled[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can Italian plum tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons minced shallots or onions[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

(concluded on page 204)Christmas Dinner Flambé (continued from page 90)

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon tarragon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup cognac[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, cayenne pepper[/recipe]

Remove meat from lobster shells. Cut into 1/2 in. thick pieces. Drain tomatoes. Chop meat coarsely. Set aside. Melt butter in pan over direct flame. Add shallots, garlic and tarragon. Sauté until shallots just begin to turn yellow. They should not brown. Add lobster. Sauté about five minutes, stirring frequently, only until lobster is heated through. Don't overcook. Add cognac. Set it aflame. When flames subside, add parsley and tomatoes. Simmer about five minutes longer. Add salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. Serve with curried rice from recipe following. The magnificence of lobster suggests the finest of Moselles, Bernkasteler Doktor.

[recipe_title]Curried Rice[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 cup long grain rice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons curry powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon onion salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

Bring water to a rapid boil. Stir in curry powder, onion salt and oil. Add rice. Stir very well. Cover pot. Cook over lowest possible flame, without stirring, until rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Add cream, bring cream up to boil. Fluff with long kitchen fork.

[recipe_title]Chicken and Cepes with Armagnac[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 whole breasts of chicken[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. can French cepes[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup Armagnac[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons minced chives[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate 4 slices toast[/recipe]

Boil chicken until tender. Cool. Remove skin and bones. Cut meat into large dice. Drain cepes. Cut into 1/4 in. thick slices. Melt butter over low flame. Add chicken and cepes. Sauté about five minutes. Add Armagnac to pan. When hot, set ablaze. When flames subside, add cream and chives. Simmer five to eight minutes. Add salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate to taste. Spoon chicken on toast. Fill champagne glasses with the best 1955 brut you can find.

[recipe_title]Beef and Kidneys with Champagne[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2-lb. shell steak, boneless[/recipe]

[recipe]2 veal kidneys, about 6 oz. each[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon flour[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup very finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon ground fennel[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, freshly ground black pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint champagne[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons meat extract[/recipe]

Remove any fat from steak. Cut steak into rectangular pieces about 1 in. long and 1/8 in. thick. Remove outer membrane, if any, from kidneys. Cut each kidney in half lengthwise. Cut out fat. Cut each piece of kidney crosswise into 1/4 in. thick slices. Set aside 1 tablespoon butter, in a small container, with the flour. When butter is soft, but not melting, mix it with the flour, forming a smooth paste. Heat oil and remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a pan over a direct flame. Add steak, kidneys, onion, garlic and fennel. Sauté, stirring frequently, until meat browns. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Continue to sauté until liquid at pan bottom evaporates. Add bourbon. Set ablaze. Add champagne. Cook until champagne is reduced to approximately half a pint. Add meat extract. Stir well. Add flour-butter paste. Cook, stirring constantly, until gravy thickens. Correct seasoning to taste. Recommended burgundy: Clos de Vougeot.

[recipe_title]Mushrooms and Peas with Rum[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/2 lb. mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. package frozen peas[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons finely minced shallots or onions[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon dried mint leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 oz. light rum[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. dark Jamaica rum[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

Cook peas, following directions on package. Drain. Set aside. Wash mushrooms. Cut into slices 1/8 in. thick. Melt butter in pan. Add mushrooms, shallots and mint leaves. Sauté until mushrooms are tender and no more liquid remains in pan. Add both kinds of rum and set ablaze. When flames subside, add peas. Stir well. Cook until peas are heated through. Season with salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate.

[recipe_title]Soufflé Omelet Grand Marnier[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons English cream filling[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract[/recipe]

[recipe]3 oz. Grand Marnier[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup sifted confectioners' sugar[/recipe]

(English cream filling is the custard mixture sometimes used for filling éclairs or cream puffs. Vanilla pudding may be used instead.) Pre-heat oven at 350°. Separate egg yolks from whites. Mix yolks with English cream filling, vanilla and I tablespoon Grand Marnier. Put whites and salt in the bowl of electric mixer. Mix at high speed until whites are stiff. Slowly add confectioners' sugar while continuing to beat at high speed. Slowly fold yolks into whites, using a down, over, up stroke with mixing spoon. Don't stir. Butter bottom and sides of an oval shallow casserole or au gratin dish. Sprinkle with sugar. Turn omelet into casserole, shaping it into a long oval. Bake 20 minutes or until golden brown. Heat balance of Grand Marnier. Pour on top of omelet. Set ablaze. Serve at once. Individual portions may be sprinkled with additional sugar if desired.

And now there's nothing left to do but bask in the warm afterglow of your flambé feast, with the ruby ember of your post-prandial panatela and the euphoric crackling of a roaring hearth as reminders of the Yuletide's incandescent dining delights.