Cheese It

Cheese Speaks many languages -- from the redolent gratings of parmesan floating atop French onion soup to the regal refulgence of a moist and plump cheesecake. Discriminating gourmets, accustomed to their cheese at the end of a meal, hardly need an interpreter to explain that roquefort from France, blue from Denmark, stilton from England and gorgonzola from Italy are all branches of the same aristocratic blue-veined family. Cheese's richest idiom, however, is on the fire -- melted down with kirsch, bubbling with ale, fried in crunchy croquettes, tossed into big onion pies. You may take your virginal emmentaler or gruyère for granted, but the first time you dip a heel of French bread into a hot Swiss fondue, your palate is ushered into a vast new velvety field of flavor, an experience possibly the aesthetic equal of seeing an alpenglow for the first time.

Reserves of cheese in the larder have always provided staunch security against unexpected onslaughts of hunger or unplanned roistering. Epicurus put it nicely: "Send me some preserved cheese that, when I like, I may have a feast." For a gemütlich after-theater gathering, or as a culinary capper to a day in the country, rich cheese melting in the chafing dish offers the warmest welcome to the senses.

For centuries, cheese was mainly eaten just as it came from the cave or cellar, with little or no thought given to its improvement. By the 17th Century, however, Sir Kenelm Digby was describing a "Quick, fat, rich, well tasted cheese" melted upon a piece of toast. It remained for Louis XVI, though, through pure royal gluttony, to confer the special boon of Gallic gourmandise upon cheese. Each night in the dining room of the Grand Trianon, a huge dining table was lowered into the kitchen. There it was loaded to the groaning point with the best of the haute cuisine. Although the astronomical number of different dishes didn't in itself provide (continued on page 159) Cheese It (continued from page 89) assurance that the royal taste buds would escape ennui each night, one appetite bait was always guaranteed to work. Louis' cooks, who valued their necks, invariably served spiced melted cheese on toast. In the 19th Century, Robert Louis Stevenson recalled, "Many's the long night I've dreamed of cheese -- toasted mainly." But what was dubbed toasted cheese in an age of redoubtable trenchermen bore little relationship to the anemic toasted cheese sandwich run up on a lunchtime grill. Digby's recipe for toasted cheese included, in artistically freewheeling fashion, cheese, butter, asparagus, bacon, onion, anchovies and spices, cooked down and poured over hot toast.

Some cheese "purists" claim that only certain hard cheeses such as cheddar, Swiss and parmesan are suitable for cooking. To submit others to heat, they aver, is criminal. Like all dogmatists they mistake their lack of imagination for insight. Any fair amount of gastronomic meandering through a European country -- Italy, for instance -- soon demonstrates that you can successfully cook cheese from the softest ricotta, through any of the semisoft clan, such as bel paese, right up to the hardest romano that you chop with an ax. Many of the so-called pasta dishes might just as well be called cheese dishes when you consider the cheese that go into them.

Compared to the job of cooking meat, game and seafood entrees, conjuring up a cheese dish is a comparative pushover. No blanching, boning, braising, carving or other stints are here to bedevil you. One notorious cheese trap, however, must always be avoided. All natural cheeses, that is, all those except process cheese, must never be subjected to high temperatures. Woo them gently over the most caressing of fires or they turn into rebellious tough strands. When cheese croquettes, for instance, are fried in deep fat, the bread-crumb coating must provide protection for the fragile cheese within. When you place cheese in a chafing dish, you lower it into a sauce, wine or other protective medium rather than toss it directly into the hot pan. The flame underneath the chafing dish should be the kind that can readily be reduced.

In the world of fine food, no eating custom breaks the ice as fast as a happy herd sitting down at a fondue party. The etiquette, from Switzerland, is extremely civilized. Everybody eats out of the same dish. Cheese melted down with white wine and kirsch is prepared in the kitchen and brought to the table in a sturdy earthenware casserole, the caquelon. It's heated on a trivet over a spirit lamp. Actually, a metal chafing dish with water in the bottom pan is just as good as, if not better than, the caquelon, since the chafing dish prevents the last pool of fondue from drying and hardening over the heat. Each fondue fancier is provided with a long, insulated fork. He spears a piece of French bread with it, dips it into the bubbling cheese, twirls it around, and then carries it from the fondue pan to his mouth. The man who drops a piece of bread in the fondue buys the wine if the party happens to be in a tavern. The smart money keeps the bread intact by spearing it through the soft part into the crust.

For chefs whose specialty is no cooking whatever, there are two succulent readymade stand-bys -- welsh rabbit in jars (which profits from the addition of several drops of Tabasco) and Swiss fondue in refrigerated packages (which usually benefits from an extra lacing of kirsch).

Cheese and wine have always been close kinsmen. Both are judged by mellowness, fragrance, body and breed, and both are tests of a man's connoisseurship. At wine-tasting sessions, cheese is the customary equipment for clearing the taste buds between sippings. Hot cheese dishes, unless they're overpoweringly spiced, perform the same job. When you pop a piece of bread covered with hot cheese into your mouth, a glass of wine cools things pleasantly. Ale and beer are inevitable with dishes of cheddar or cheshire cheese. With any of the informal dishes that follow, Swiss neuchatel, Rhine wine, asti spumante or California chardonnay are great tablemates.

[recipe_title]Fondue With Prosciutto[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1/2 1b. Swiss emmentaler cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 1b. natural gruyère cheese French bread[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 1b. prosciutto ham, sliced paper thin 4 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups dry white wine 2 cloves garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]Whole nutmeg 4 tablespoons kirsch[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Cut bread into chunks about 1 in. thick, taking care that each chunk of bread includes crust. Cut ham slices in half. Roll up each half cornucopia fashion. Pile bread in bread basket. Arrange ham slices on platter. Shred cheese by forcing it through large holes of square metal grater. Put cheese and flour in mixing bowl, tossing until cheese is coated with flour. Heat wine in top part of double boiler over direct flame until bubbles appear around edge of pan. Do not boil. Place over simmering water in bottom section of double boiler. Add cheese by handfuls to wine, stirring well. When the cheese is dissolved, add another handful, stirring well until all cheese is used. Squeeze garlic through garlic press over fondue. Grate about 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg over fondue. Stir in kirsch. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour fondue into chafing dish or caquelon before bringing it to dining room. Guests spear bread or ham and dip.

[recipe_title]Welsh Rabbit With Fried Apple[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 lb. very sharp cheddar cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]3 large Delicious apples Flour Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup ale[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon grated onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon cider vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon prepared mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon paprika Salt, pepper, cayenne pepper[/recipe]

Peel and core apples and cut each one crosswise into four slices. Dip in flour. Heat oil to a depth of 1/4 in. in a large skillet until first wisp of smoke appears. Sauté apples until tender. Remove from pan and keep in warm place. Shred cheese by forcing it through large holes of square metal grater. In the top part of a double boiler, over direct flame, heat ale until bubbles appear around edge of pan. Do not boil. Place ale over simmering water in bottom section of double boiler. Combine cheese and 2 tablespoons flour in bowl, tossing until cheese is coated with flour. Add cheese by handfuls to hot ale, stirring well. As soon as one handful is melted, add another. Stir frequently until all cheese is used. Add onion, vinegar, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, paprika and salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. Place apples in individual shallow heated casseroles. Pour welsh rabbit over apples.

[recipe_title]Roquefort and Cheddar Toast[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1/2 lb. roquefort cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. cheddar cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon Dijon mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup hot milk[/recipe]

[recipe]4 pieces French bread, each about 4 in. long[/recipe]

Paprika

Put both kinds of cheese through a meat grinder, using fine blade. In a mixing bowl combine cheese, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and cayenne pepper. Stir until thoroughly blended. In a small saucepan melt butter. Remove pan from flame and add flour, stirring until no lumps remain. Slowly add hot milk, stirring constantly. Return pan to a low flame, and simmer 3 minutes. Avoid scorching sauce. Chill sauce in refrigerator. Add sauce to cheese mixture, blending well. Cut each piece of French bread in half lengthwise. Spread cheese mixture on bread. Place pieces of bread in a shallow baking pan or baking sheet. Sprinkle generously with paprika. Bake in preheated oven at 370°, 10 minutes. Serve very hot. (The cheese mixture, chilled, without the bread, may be used as a cold cheese canapé spread.)

[recipe_title]Camembert Croquettes[/recipe_title]

(Serves four in appetizer portions)

[recipe]8 ozs. camembert cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg yolks, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]Bread crumbs Salt, pepper Flour[/recipe]

[recipe]I egg[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Deep fat for frying[/recipe]

Trim rind from camembert. Put cheese in mixing bowl, and stir until cheese is puréed. Add egg yolks, cream, 1/2 cup bread crumbs and salt and pepper to taste. Blend well. If mixture is too stiff to handle, add a little more cream. If mixture is too thin, add more bread crumbs. Shape into narrow cylinder-shaped croquettes about 2 in. long and 3/4 in. thick. Dip in flour, coating thoroughly. Beat whole egg and salad oil together. Dip croquettes in egg mixture, coating thoroughly. Dip in bread crumbs, patting ends of croquettes flat. Heat deep fat to 370°. Fry until light brown. Turn croquettes while frying to prevent filling from breaking outer shell.

[recipe_title]Ricotta With Crab Meat[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 lb. ricotta[/recipe]

[recipe]6 ozs. bel paese cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg yolk, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. crab meat[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons minced green pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup hot milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup prepared tomato sauce

[recipe]Parmesan cheese[/recipe]

Cut bel paese cheese into small dice about 1/4 in. thick. Combine ricotta, bel paese, whole egg and egg yolk, mixing well. Remove any pieces of shell or cartilage from crab meat. Sauté onion and pepper in butter until onion is yellow. Remove from flame and stir in flour. Slowly add hot milk. Return to low flame and simmer 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Combine crab meat and sauce. Add parsley, wine and salt and pepper to taste. Chill crab-meat mixture in refrigerator. Spread half ricotta mixture over a shallow 7-in. casserole. Spread crab meat over ricotta. Spread balance of ricotta over crab meat. Pour tomato sauce on top. Sprinkle generously with parmesan cheese. Bake in preheated oven, 370°, until cheese browns, about 20 to 25 minutes.

[recipe_title]Cheese And Onion Pie[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]9-in. unbaked pie shell[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. wensleydale or cheshire cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 egg yolk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon white pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Paprika[/recipe]

If above cheeses aren't obtainable, sharp moist American cheddar cheese may be used instead. Force cheese through large holes of square metal grater. In a mixing bowl toss the cheese and flour together. Cut onion in half through stem end, then cut into thinnest possible slivers. Sauté onion in butter over low flame until limp but not browned. Mix together the milk, egg, egg yolk, salt and pepper. Place cheese and sautéed onion in pie shell. Strain milk mixture into shell, and sprinkle with paprika. Bake in preheated oven at 400°, 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 325°. Bake additional 25 to 30 minutes or until knife inserted in pie comes out clean.

[recipe_title]Cheshire Pudding[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]3/4 lb. cheshire cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups milk[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups stale bread cubes, 1/2 in. thick[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup ale[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sharp prepared mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dry English mustard[/recipe]

Heat milk until bubbles appear around edge of saucepan. Combine beaten eggs and milk in large mixing bowl. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper and 1/4 teaspoon paprika. Add bread cubes. Shred cheese by forcing it through large holes of square metal grater. Add one third of the cheese to bowl, mixing well. Divide the mixture among flour-greased custard cups. Place cups in a shallow baking pan with hot water. Bake in preheated oven at 370° about 30 minutes, or until top of pudding is firm when touched with spoon. While pudding is baking, combine remaining two thirds of cheese with flour in mixing bowl. Toss until thoroughly blended. Heat ale in top part of double boiler over direct flame, until bubbles appear around edge of pan. Place ale over simmering water in bottom section of double boiler. Add cheese in small batches to ale, stirring well, until cheese is dissolved. Add prepared mustard, dry mustard, I teaspoon paprika and salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm until serving time. Unmold pudding onto serving dishes. Pour hot cheese sauce over pudding. Sprinkle with paprika.

The variety of hot cheese dishes is limited only by the adventuresome scope of your imagination. In terms of its adaptability and ease of preparation, the cheese, truly, stands alone.