Chop-Chop Chinese Fare

The True Genius of Chinese Chefs has always been their limitless flair for improvising. In old China, the lowliest cook could take an ordinary onion omelet and with a few spices transform it into a celestial delicacy. Foraging Chinese soldiers would climb almost inaccessible ocean cliffs to bring down swallows' nests and convert them into birds'-nest soup. After they had eaten all of a shark's meat, Chinese fishermen found they could steam the fins into a ravishing broth.

When the Chinese General Li Hung-chang was staying at the then newly amalgamed Waldorf-Astoria, in 1896, his three personal chefs who traveled with him were suddenly called upon to prepare a dinner for President Cleveland, who had come to pay his respects. They quickly assembled the local provisions on hand, mainly onions, pork, celery and mushrooms, and created an authentic culinary triumph. They called their dish tsa-sui, meaning a miscellany of practically anything. New Yorkers pronounced it chop suey, and have done their best ever since to make it the ultimate in Chinese culinary clichés. But the important thing is that Americans who had been accustomed to their meat on a platter, their sauce in a sauceboat and their vegetables in a vegetable dish were introduced to a glorious melange of small morsels of food quickly sautéed, quickly steamed and quickly bathed in a soy-flavored sauce.

To a bachelor, one of the most magnetic attractions of Chinese cooking is that with few exceptions (roast duck takes several hours and birds'-nest soup requires about eight hours on the fire) it's the speediest in the world. But the very instantaneousness of a Chinese dish, once it's on the fire, is also a possible booby trap. There's a final moment when every morsel must be deployed within arm's reach – each item sliced, minced, trimmed, shelled or in whatever state the last-minute posture demands. If the shrimp are done and the water chestnuts haven't been sliced, if you have to struggle with a bottle cap or search for the cornstarch or fumble with the garlic, you will inevitably commit a culinary faux pas – a la Chinese. For a prime secret of Oriental cooking is timing, and the times entailed are short. If you've been told that Chinese vegetables are only half cooked, you've been told a half-truth; Chinese vegetables – by comparison with American plebeian standards – should be one-quarter cooked or one-eighth cooked. In some cases there is only the merest flirtation with a hot fire. Dishes of meat or poultry may be cooked in advance provided the vegetables are added at the last moment.

From the Oriental viewpoint, the principal ingredient in any recipe is an unswerving dedication to good food. Time and again in Chinese biographies and novels the hero is recognized as heroic by his allegiance to the good things of the table. His exact supper menu is as important as his midnight tryst after supper.

No sluggards in the potable department, countless Chinese notables were famed for their ability to hold liquor. Wang Chi, for instance, was remembered as the Five-Bottle Scholar. In modern times the Chinese, like the French, refuse to damn fine food with irreverent swilling. Before the dinner, martinis made with rice wine instead of vermouth, clover clubs, gimlets and whiskey or rum sours are all modern Eurasian pleasures. Toward the conclusion of a meal, a cup or two of a fine flowery tea is preferred to the endless merry-go-round of tea gulping that usually goes on in American Chinese restaurants. The very end of the feast is properly capped with fruit liqueurs.

In setting up your own Sino-styled food fest, at least two of the following dishes should be proffered – always with the proper rice.

[recipe_title]Chinese Rice[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 cup converted rice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 3/4 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

In a saucepan with heavy bottom and tight-fitting lid bring water to a rapid boil. Add salt. Slowly stir in rice. Cover and cook over lowest possible flame 18 to 20 minutes or until rice is tender. Do not stir while rice is cooking.

[recipe_title]Beef and Oysters[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 1/2 lbs. sirloin steak[/recipe]

[recipe]16 large freshly opened oysters[/recipe]

[recipe]Peanut oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons onion, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. sliced fresh mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons oyster sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs, well beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon ground anise[/recipe]

[recipe]12 thinly sliced red radishes[/recipe]

Cut steak into approximately 1-in. squares, as thin as possible – no more than 1/16 in. thick. If steak is very cold or semifrozen, slicing will be easier. Heat 2 tablespoons peanut oil in a wide saucepan. Add onion and garlic. As soon as onion begins to turn yellow, not brown, add sliced steak and mushrooms. Sauté, stirring frequently, until meat is brown. If any pool of liquid remains in pan, continue to cook until it disappears. Add chicken broth, oyster sauce and soy sauce. Bring to a boil. Mix cornstarch with 1/4 cup cold water to a smooth paste. Stir into pan and cook until thick. Add salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate to taste. Mix well the eggs, remaining water, flour and anise. Dip oysters in batter. Heat 1/2 in. peanut oil in a wide skillet until first wisp of smoke appears. Fry oysters until light brown on both sides. Mix radishes with beef mixture. Turn into serving dish. Arrange oysters on top.

[recipe_title]Fantail Shrimp and Celery Cabbage[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 lbs. large shrimp[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]Peanut oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion, cut julienne[/recipe]

[recipe]3 cups celery cabbage, cut julienne[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups iceberg lettuce, cut julienne[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup catsup[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon sesame oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon fresh gingerroot, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon oyster sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

Remove shells from shrimp, leaving tail on. Cut lengthwise almost, but not quite, in half. Remove vein from back. In a narrow bowl beat egg whites until stiff. Add cornstarch and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Mix well. Transfer egg-white mixture to a larger bowl, add shrimp and mix well. Heat 1 in. peanut oil in electric skillet preheated to 370°. Fry shrimp until light brown on both sides. While shrimp are frying, heat in another wide pan 2 tablespoons peanut oil. When oil is very hot, add onion, celery cabbage, lettuce, catsup, sesame oil, gingerroot, sugar, oyster sauce and soy sauce. Season to taste with salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate. As soon as vegetables are hot, not limp, remove from fire. Place vegetables in a mound on serving dish. Arrange shrimp around vegetables, crown fashion.

[recipe_title]Sea Bass with Sweet and Sour Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 sea bass, 1 3/4 lbs. each[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. shelled pine nuts[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/4 cups chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons cider vinegar[recipe]

[recipe]Cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]1 green pepper, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pimientos, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]13 1/2-oz. can frozen grapefruit sections, thawed and drained[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon sesame oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons oyster sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate Peanut oil[/recipe]

Have the sea bass cut into boneless and skinless fillets. Cut each fillet crosswise into quarters. Place pine nuts in a shallow pan in oven preheated to 350°. Heat 10 to 12 minutes or until nuts begin to brown. Avoid scorching. In a saucepan combine chicken broth, sugar and vinegar. Bring to a boil. Mix 3 tablespoons cornstarch with 1/4 cup cold water. When smooth, slowly add paste to broth. Add green pepper, pimientos, grapefruit, sesame oil, oyster sauce and soy sauce. Again bring to a boil. Remove from fire. Sprinkle sea bass with salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate. Dip in cornstarch. Heat 1/2 in. peanut oil in a wide skillet until oil shows first wisp of smoke. Sauté fillets until light brown on both sides. Place fillets in serving dish. Bring sauce to a boil again and pour over fillets. Sprinkle with pine nuts. (concluded on page 132) Chinese Far(continued from bare 94)

[recipe_title]pork balls with crab meat[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 1b. boneless pork loin[/recipe]

[recipe]61/2,-oz. can crab meat[/recipe]

[recipe]5-oz. can water chestnuts, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons farina[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]l/g teaspoon garlic powder[recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon sesame oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/s teaspoon ground cloves[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]3 packets instant chicken bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons peanut oil[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups fresh fennel, sliced 14-in. thick[/recipe]

[recipe]3 scallions, thinly sliced[/recipe]

Put pork and water chestnuts through meat grinder twice, using fine blade. Add farina, egg, garlic powder, sesame oil, cloves, 1 teaspoon salt, \/s teaspoon pepper and i/s teaspoon monosodium glutamate. Mix well. Shape into balls 1 in. in diameter. In a wide saucepan or Dutch oven bring 3 cups water to a boil. Add instant bouillon. Drop pork balls into broth. When pork balls rise to top, cover pan with lid and simmer 8 minutes. Set aside. Remove any cartilage or pieces of shell from crab meat. Separate into large flakes. Heat peanut oil in saucepan. Add crab meat and saute over low flame about 3 minutes. Add broth in which pork balls were cooked. When broth boils, mix cornstarch with 1/, cup cold water to a smooth paste. Slowly add to crab-meat mixture. Add soy sauce and salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate to taste. Add pork balls and fennel. Cook only until fennel is heated through. Stir in scallions.

[recipe_title]Mandarin Duck[recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]4-lb. duckling[/recipe]

[recipe]Il-oz. can mandarin orange segments, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons rice wine or sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cinnamon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons peanut oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons onion, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]A teaspoon fresh gingerroot, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon sesame oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]5-oz. can bamboo shoots,[/recipe]

[recipe]drained 5-oz. can water chestnuts, drained and sliced thin[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup diced celery cabbage[/recipe]

Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate Place duckling breast side up on a wire rack in an uncovered roasting pan. Roast in oven preheated to 350° about 2i/o hours or until duckling is golden brown and very tender. Drain off fat from time to time during roasting to prevent smoking. When duckling is half cooked, mix 14 cup soy sauce with brown sugar, rice wine and cinnamon. Brush duckling about every 20 minutes with soy-sauce mixture. When duckling is done, remove meat from bones and cut into l/i-in.-thick crosswise slices. Heat peanut oil in a large saucepan. Saute onion, garlic and gingerroot until onion is barely yellow. Add chicken broth, soy sauce and sesame oil. Bring to a boil. Mix cornstarch and 1/3 cup cold water to a smooth paste and slowly add to chicken broth. Add duckling, bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, mandarin orange segments and celery cabbage. Season to taste with salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate. Cook only until vegetables are heated through.

[recipe_title]Chicken With Pineapple[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]3 whole breasts of chicken, boned[/recipe]

[recipe]201/g-oz. can pineapple chunks[/recipe]

[recipe]4i/q-oz. can blanched almonds[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons peanut oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons onion, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]5-oz. can water chestnuts, drained and sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon sesame oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon[/recipe]

Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate, Place almonds in shallow pan in oven preheated to 350° for 10 to 12 minutes or until almonds are brown. Avoid scorching. Drain pineapple chunks, reserving I/, cup juice. Remove skin from chicken. Cut each chicken breast in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1/,-in.-thick slices. Heat peanut oil in electric skillet preheated to 300°. Saute chicken 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Place lid on skillet and cook 8 to 10 minutes longer. Sprinkle onion and garlic into pan. Saute a minute or two longer. Add chicken broth and \/z cup reserved pineapple juice. Bring to a boil. Mix cornstarch with 14 cup cold water to a smooth paste and slowly add to pan. Add pineapple chunks, water chestnuts, soy sauce, sesame oil, cinnamon and almonds. Season to taste with salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate.

In delineating the attributes of a Great Man, the esteemed Confucius included these gourmandial traits: "He does not eat what is too ripe or too green. He does not eat what has not been properly cut. He does not eat without the proper sauce. Although the meat may be abundant, he does not eat more of it than he does of the vegetables. He does not restrict the amount of his wine, but he does not let it befuddle him." As in most things, Confucius knew what he was talking about.