Smorrebrod

When the editors of Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary defined the noun "sandwich" as "two or more slices of bread with other food, as meat, cheese, or savory mixture, spread between them," they irreverently snubbed those modern-day Vikings whose tables are dedicated to the proposition that the real art of sandwich-making (and sandwich enjoyment) lies in the theorem that in halving the bread one doubles the eating pleasure. Although the open sandwich, or sm?rrebr?d, is lavishly served all through the Scandinavian countries, as well as in Germany and Austria, the Danes are credited with having brought it to its present peak of virtuosity. Comestibles that most Americans wouldn't think of putting between slices of bread become magnificent booty when perched atop a single slice. In Scandinavia, such toppings as herring in cold lobster sauce, slices of roast goose mingled with fruit stuffing, raw egg yolks, bits of crisp bacon with sautéed onion atop rare roast beef, or fillet of freshly smoked eel aren't esoteric oddities but properly satisfying fare for the more knowledgeable trencherman. The well-trained sm?rrebr?der astutely brings together the doughty and the delicate. Scraped or ground raw beef in cannibal sandwiches cavorts with tiny shavings of fresh horseradish, capers and onions. Smoky sprats rest atop weightlessly soft scrambled eggs and hot curry finds its way into the blandest mayonnaise.

Americans touring Scandinavia recognize the sumptuous open sandwich feast as more than merely the familiar smorgasbord on bread. Unlike the full-dress smorgasbord, which often requires consultation with elaborate recipes, all you need for a successful open-sandwich party is the route to the nearest fine food counter. With herring as the base, admirable open sandwiches can be built easily from such wonderful pickings as herring in dill, in madeira, in fruit sauce, in lobster sauce or in cream. The Danes will be the first to forgive the pun when we call theirs the land of the cheery herring. But the kingdom of little fishes is only a beginning. Bachelors planning a sm?rrebr?d fest will now find in gourmet shops and delicatessens an appetite-rousing array of sliced cooked meats, sliced fowl, seafood, salads, cheeses and condiments. So lavish is the present pageant of things pickled, canned and jarred that your most difficult decision is not what to buy but when to call a halt.

The Dane customarily puts eating first among the practical arts of living. The natural goodness of sm?rrebr?d ingredients is found in the Danish imports now coming to this country -- mild cured ham, smoked salmon with not a grain of salt in it, Danish blue and mynster cheeses, the latter much closer to the Swiss than the pallid munster produced in this country, the accompanying great Tuborg and Carlsberg beers and, of course, the incomparable Aalborg Akvavit, with its dry caraway flavor, and cherry heering.

For bearing your sm?rrebr?d to the table, you should conscript huge silver or fine wooden platters, china platters or outsize wooden cheese trays. The knife and fork are more utile than the hand in doing the sm?rrebr?d justice. Each sandwich should be not only succulent but a color delight as well. On sun-yellow scrambled eggs, diagonal stripes of pink smoked salmon are ribbons of gastronomic honor. Atop thin slices of roast pork loin, mounds of pickled red cabbage please both eyes and taste buds. Among the sandwiches there should be islands of additional color -- large bunches of water cress, lemon or lime wedges, nests of lettuce filled with mushroom salad, curried pasta salad or cucumber salad in dill.

The translation of sm?rrebr?d is buttered bread. The butter must be sweet, the color of white gold, and worked with a knife or spatula until it's creamy soft but not melting. It should be spread lavishly. The Danes are past masters in making compound butters such as butter mixed with curry, with chives, with mustard, with pimiento or with horse-radish. Both the genuine Danish rye bread, called rugbr?d, and black pumpernickel should be sliced not more than an eighth-inch thick. Sour rye, white bread or whole-wheat bread should be a quarter-inch thick.

Architects of late supper parties or all-night beer parties often simplify the sm?rrebr?d ritual by merely emptying their plunder out of cans, jars and packages from the delicatessen into serving plates alongside huge trays of bread. The assembled sandwich munchers may then create their own sm?rrebr?d on the spot. For prepared posh sm?rrebr?d parties, you need simply phone the nearest Scandinavian or Danish restaurant, such as the newly opened Copenhagen in New York, or the Kungsholm in Chicago, and order your catered sm?rrebr?d in advance. Oskar Davidsen's famous old restaurant in Copenhagen has air-expressed open sandwiches all over the world. Of course, dedicated members of the sm?rrebr?d cult will want to make their own sandwiches in their own private digs. It isn't necessary to emulate Davidsen's four-foot-long menu with 712 open sandwiches made from 178 combinations on four different kinds of bread. But you should plan on a batting order that includes each of the main categories of the Danish cold board: fish and shellfish, fresh meats and poultry, smoked meats, eggs and cheese.

With all sandwiches, such appetite-whetting accompaniments as gherkins cut into fan-shaped slices, plum tomatoes, pickled walnuts and artichoke hearts in spiced olive oil are guaranteed aids to gourmandise. Although professional sm?rrebr?ders like to construct their sandwiches at the very last moment, it's possible to make them in advance and keep them fresh by following a simple technique: place the assembled sandwiches in large shallow baking pans or shallow cartons; cover the top tightly with Saran-type or foil wrap, or a moistened kitchen towel wrung dry; store them in the refrigerator until served.

In enjoying his open sandwichcraft, the Dane follows an old drinking ceremony. Because he loves eating more than drinking, he always takes a bite of sm?rrebr?d before he raises his glass of icy cold snaps to his lips. Invariably his snaps is the Aalborg Akvavit, and the first one is always taken neat. For a chaser he immediately takes a prodigious draught of his beer. Thereafter his snaps is swallowed in small sips, each sip followed with generous quaffs of beer.

While the art of the open sandwich can be mastered without ever scanning a single recipe, the cooked sm?rrebr?d specialties have their own very special allure. Their number is legion, and the technique of their construction couldn't be easier. Playboy's own array of open sandwiches is designed for any bon vivant with access to a skillet.

Each of the following recipes serves four.

[recipe_title]Pâté de foie gras and Smoked Turkey Sandwiches[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4-oz. crock pâté de foie gras with truffles[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. tin sliced smoked turkey[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices pumpernickel[/recipe]

[recipe]4 large tomato slices, 1/4-in. thick[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]Flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg, well beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]Bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

Work butter until it is soft enough to spread easily. Butter pumpernickel. Spread pâté de foie gras on bread. Arrange parallel slices of smoked turkey on foie gras. Sprinkle tomatoes with salt, pepper and sugar. Dip in flour. Pat off excess and dip in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs. Heat 1/4 in. salad oil in a large skillet. Fry tomato slices until golden brown on both sides. Place a tomato slice on each sandwich.

[recipe_title]Beef Tartar Sandwiches[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1-1/2-lb. boneless prime porterhouse steak[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]4 dashes cayenne pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]4 teaspoons horseradish[/recipe]

[recipe]4 teaspoons capers, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons onion, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]4 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices rye bread[/recipe]

[recipe]4 sour gherkins[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons minced chives[/recipe]

Trim meat of all fat. Put it through a grinder twice, using fine blade. Add salt, black pepper, cayenne, horseradish, capers, onion and egg yolks. Mix well. Butter bread. Spread meat on bread and place a gherkin, cut into fan-shaped slices, on corner of each sandwich. Sprinkle with chives.

[recipe_title]Ham, Egg and Blue Cheese Sandwiches[/recipe_title]

[recipe]8 thin slices Danish or Virginia ham[/recipe]

[recipe]2 hard-boiled eggs, chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. blue cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon grated onion[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices rye bread[/recipe]

(concluded overleaf)

Cut hard-boiled eggs into small dice. Crumble blue cheese. Combine eggs, cheese, mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, sugar and grated onion. Add salt and pepper to taste. Butter the bread. Place ham on bread. Spoon egg mixture onto the center of each sandwich.

[recipe_title]Smoked Oyster Sandwiches[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3-2/3-oz. cans smoked oysters, chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]1 hard-boiled egg[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 large green pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon minced chives or onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices whole-wheat bread[/recipe]

With a very sharp knife cut eight lengthwise strips of egg white 1/4 in. wide. Cut the pepper into eight long strips. Work butter smooth on cutting board, then add chives and parsley. Spread bread with butter. Chop egg yolk until very fine. Arrange oysters on bread and sprinkle with chopped egg yolk. Cut each sandwich in half diagonally. On each half place a strip of green pepper and a parallel strip of egg white.

[recipe_title]Roast Beef, Bacon and Onion Sandwiches[/recipe_title]

[recipe]8 thin slices rare roast beef[/recipe]

[recipe]8 slices bacon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices rye bread[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon horseradish[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]12 thin slices cucumber[/recipe]

Mince onion very fine. Cut bacon into small dice about 1/4-in. square and heat in a frying pan until it is almost crisp. Add onion and continue to fry until bacon is crisp. Drain onion and bacon of all fat. Work butter until it is soft enough to spread easily. Add horseradish to butter and spread on bread. Place roast beef on bread and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with bacon and onions. Place alternate slices of tomato and cucumber, overlapping, on the center of each sandwich.

[recipe_title]Scrambled Egg and Smoked Salmon Sandwiches[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]4 1-oz. slices smoked salmon[/recipe]

[recipe]Butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices rye bread[/recipe]

[recipe]8 medium-size fresh mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon fresh chives, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Work 3 tablespoons butter until it is soft enough to spread easily. Butter the bread. Cut mushrooms into slices about 1/8-in. thick and sauté in 1 tablespoon butter until they are just tender. Set aside. Beat eggs until "whites are no longer visible. Add chives and season with salt and pepper. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in skillet. Add eggs and cook over moderate flame, stirring constantly, until eggs are soft scrambled. Divide eggs among the 4 slices of bread, spreading evenly. Arrange a row of mushroom slices diagonally across each sandwich. Top mushrooms with salmon slices.

[recipe_title]Lobster Salad Sandwiches[recipe_title]

[recipe]2 1-1/4-lb. northern lobsters, boiled and chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup minced celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon chili sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, celery salt[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]8 slices French bread[/recipe]

[recipe]8 lettuce leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]8 slices hard-boiled egg[/recipe]

[recipe]8 anchovies[/recipe]

[recipe]8 thin slices black truffle[/recipe]

Remove meat from lobsters. Cut into small dice, no more than 1/4-in. thick. In a mixing bowl combine diced lobster, celery, mayonnaise, chili sauce, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and salt, pepper and celery salt to taste. Butter the bread and place a lettuce leaf on each slice. (Boston lettuce leaves, medium size, are best for this kind of sandwich.) Spoon lobster onto lettuce. Place a slice of hard-boiled egg on each piece of bread. Curl an anchovy around the rim of each slice of egg. Turn truffles into fancy shapes with a truffle cutter (available at stores featuring imported housewares and kitchen utensils). Place a slice of truffle on each slice of egg.

[recipe_title]Imported Shrimp Mound Sandwiches[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 2-3/4-oz. jars tiny imported shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices white bread[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup celery, diced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup Spanish onion, diced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup canned pimiento, diced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Half lemon[/recipe]

Be sure shrimps and vegetables are icy cold. Drain shrimps. Work butter until it is soft enough to spread easily. Butter bread. In a mixing bowl combine celery, onion, pimiento and mayonnaise, mixing well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Place a mound of the celery mixture on each piece of bread. Arrange the shrimps on top of the celery mixture. Sprinkle with the juice of the half lemon.

[recipe_title]Sliced Pork and Red Cabbage Sandwiches[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3-lb. center-cut pork loin[/recipe]

[recipe]l-1/2 cups finely shredded red cabbage[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 teaspoon prepared mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon celery seed[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon turmeric[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices white bread[/recipe]

[recipe]8 strips canned pimiento, 14/ in. thick.[/recipe]

Place meat in uncovered roasting pan and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast in preheated oven at 400° for 1-1/2 hours. While meat is roasting, pour off melted fat into small container from time to time. Place fat in refrigerator until serving time. In a mixing bowl combine cabbage, sugar, vinegar, mayonnaise, mustard, celery seed and turmeric. Mix well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Chill in refrigerator. Spread bread with pork fat. Cut meat from bones, removing it in one piece. Slice meat thin and arrange slices on bread. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Across the center of each sandwich arrange a long mound of red cabbage salad. Place two strips of pimiento on sides of each cabbage mound.

[recipe_title]Curried Crab Meat and Danish Sausage Sandwiches[recipe_title]

[recipe]7-1/2-oz. can king crab meat[/recipe]

[recipe]4-oz. can (drained weight) Danish cocktail sausages[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2-cup onion, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon curry powder.[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices bacon[/recipe]

[recipe]8 slices French bread[/recipe]

Buy the tendonless chunk-style crab meat, if possible. If the regular king crab meat is used, the tendons must be carefully removed before cooking. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan or skillet over a low flame. Add onion. Sauté only until onion is yellow. Remove from flame. Stir in flour and curry powder, mixing very well. In a small saucepan heat cream until bubbles appear around edge of pan. Slowly stir cream into pan with onion. Mix very well. Return to a moderate flame, and simmer 5 minutes. Add crab meat, brandy and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer over a low flame 5 minutes more. Set aside until serving time. Cut each slice of bacon crosswise into 4 pieces. Wrap a piece of bacon around each sausage. Fasten open end of bacon with toothpick. Sauté sausages in a skillet without added fat until bacon is brown, turning when necessary. Butter bread. Heat crab meat if necessary, and spoon over bread. Remove toothpicks from sausages and arrange sausages on top of crab meat.

The above sampling merely skims the surface of a cornucopian array of br?d-based Danish delights. Your own variations on Scandinavia's urbane upgrading of the Earl of Sandwich's bid for immortality are limited only by the reaches of your imagination and the proclivities of your palate.