The Cool Approach

Certainly one of the most strategic bases of operations for the would-be chef at this torrid time of the year is the spot directly in front of a delicatessen's cold-food display case piled high with thuringer, Genoa salami, prosciutto, smoked eel, a dozen or so cheeses and a prodigal assortment of salads and seafood. With a little imagination, you can easily convert these plain cold comestibles into cold gourmandise. Cooked shelled shrimps reclining on beds of ice, for instance, are ready not only for bottled cocktail sauce but for subtle marinades and sumptuous offbeat salads. Tissue-thin slices of West-phalian ham can lead a hand-to-mouth existence or be rolled into horns of plenty filled with Dungeness crab meat, Alsatian foie gras or smorgasbord salads.

In laying the groundwork for many cold feasts, the first ingredients are oil and vinegar. They're common denominators in French dressing, mayonnaise, vinaigrette dressing, hors d'oeuvres, antipasto and all the substantial and light salads alike. Ever since Noah's dove returned to the ark with an olive leaf, the oil of the olive has been unchallenged for festive cold fare. French olive oil is lighter in body than the Italian or Spanish. All three have positive personalities, in contrast to the relatively tasteless corn and cottonseed oils of this country. If you're not yet an olive-oil addict, buy a bottle of artichoke hearts in oil. Chill them, sample them, and your conversion will be instantaneous. In the vinegar department, red-wine vinegar, white-wine vinegar and cider vinegar are basic. For those who like to mix salads at the table, sampler bottles of herb-flavored vinegar are all useful for the summer-salad man. If you're a graduate of the sour-cream school, this element, too, is used for converting plain dressings into exhibition pieces. In place of the usual Russian dressing -- four parts mayonnaise to one part chili sauce -- try four parts sour cream to one part chili sauce; it's especially delectable with all kinds of cold fresh seafood.

Hying to the delicatessen for sliced cooked meats follows a long, spirited (Continued on page 128)Cool Approach(continued from page 85) tradition. Cold pressed boar's loaf served with a honey-flavored mustard was the pride of ancient Roman gastronomy. In the Middle Ages, the French charcutiers, specialists in pork, as well as the rôtisseurs or roast-meat specialists, were offering ready-to-eat meats in public cook houses. To this day the French and French-American shops, featuring charcuterie, display not only elaborate cold pork products but the whole confraternity of galantine, game pies and pâtés of the finest meats and poultries extant.

When you're deploying cold cuts on a platter, the cold meat's obviously the thing that counts, but take your lead from the Gallic cold-food specialist who knows that the main theme becomes the center of attraction only with the help of an accent or a garnish. If, as a complement to the meat, you place a mound of cold asparagus vinaigrette on the platter, a simple-enough task, you are moving in the right direction toward cold cuisine in the grand manner. Put your cold glazed ham on a prechilled silver platter, carve a dozen or so slices as a frame for the ham, garnish it with lettuce cups filled with chowchow, deviled eggs or quail eggs, watercress or tiny two-inch ears of corn in tarragon vinegar -- all, of themselves, minor gestures -- and your cold ham becomes a fine frigid fancy.

All wines compatible with hot foods are equally pleasant with their cold versions. For informal summertime eating, it would be hard to find better all-purpose wines than the Alsatian. The best of them on the shelves now is the 1959 Gewuerz-Traminer, a distinctive white wine with a pleasant, cool bouquet.

A platter of cheese is always a rich epilog for a cold dinner or supper followed with a dark roast coffee. In summer, a special word must be put in for the delicate cheeses of the camembert and brie types with their thin yellowish-orange crust. In their ideal state they're soft but not flowing. Although they're always stored in the refrigerator, they should be removed about an hour before serving to let their bouquet ripen at room temperature. Triple creme parfait, the richest and finest of all, is excellent with a dark mellow port or iced kirsch. Here again, cheese is typical of the foods which, with little effort, can easily be transformed into rich classical desserts, as in Italian ricotta-filled liqueur-soaked cakes.

In the gastronomic pecking order, many foods enjoy favor because they're fresh from field, river or sea. Cold beefsteak tomatoes, cold Kennebec salmon and cold northern lobsters must always be models of perfect freshness. Don't assume, however, that the whole art of cold cookery depends upon freshness per se. Smoked boneless pork loin, in its canned version, is often superior to the run-of-the-mill fresh offering. A really fine canned pâté of liver often outranks a pâté maison that's been sojourning on the refrigerator shelves for a week or so. Air-cured hams like prosciutto or Smithfield are usually a year or two old before they've reached their prime. But once the slicing starts, they should be eaten within a week. Cooked seafoods like shrimp or lobster should be eaten the same day they're boiled, although an additional day in their own stock in a very cold refrigerator will not harm them. Even with all the summer fruits now in their full tide, it's doubtful if a peach melba made from fresh peaches and fresh raspberries equals the bliss of ice cream resting on big canned elberta peaches topped with imported melba sauce.

Last-minute dishes are often notorious for stretching those last minutes into hours. In the fare which follows there are sometimes several steps, separated by long intervals, for marinating or ripening flavors. But the total effort in each case is designed for the freewheeling host who wants enough time to eat, drink and be merry along with his guests.

[recipe_title]Clam Juice Cocktail[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 8-oz. bottles clam juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup catchup[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup cracked ice[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, celery salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons horseradish[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]4 dashes Tabasco sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

Pour clam juice, catchup and cream into blender. Add ice and several dashes each of salt, celery salt and pepper. Add horseradish, lemon juice, Tabasco and Worcestershire. Run blender at high speed for 10 seconds. Pour into prechilled old-fashioned glasses, each with a large ice cube.

[recipe_title]Bagna Cauda[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

[recipe]1 medium-size bunch celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large cucumber[/recipe]

[recipe]2 green peppers[/recipe]

[recipe]2 sweet red peppers[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. Belgian endive[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bunch thin scallions[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pkg. small bread sticks[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 large garlic cloves, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons anchovy paste[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 pint heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1-oz. can whole white truffles, finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]Pepper[/recipe]

Trim leaves from celery. Cut off root end and separate bunch into pieces. Run a vegetable peeler along outside of celery pieces to remove tough strings. Cut celery into pieces approximately 4-in. long and 1/2-in. wide. Peel and cut cucumber into pieces the same size as celery. Cut peppers in half through stem ends. Discard seeds and stem ends of peppers. Cut peppers lengthwise into 1/2-in. pieces. Separate endive into pieces for dipping. Cut root end off scallions, allowing about 1 in. of green part to remain. Place vegetables on top of ice in a large salad bowl. Place bread sticks near chafing dish. In the chafing dish, over a low flame, melt butter. Add garlic. Sauté until garlic turns brown. Remove garlic and discard. Add anchovy paste. Mix well. Add cream and truffles. Add a generous dash of freshly ground pepper. Let liquid simmer about 5 minutes before guests dip vegetables and bread sticks into the bagna cauda (hot dip).

[recipe_title]Cold Creme Vichyssoise[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]3-1/8-oz. pkg. instant potato flakes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 quart milk[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups ice, finely cracked[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]4 packets instant light broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon white pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon MSG seasoning[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]Chopped chives[/recipe]

In a large saucepan heat 1-1/2 cups milk only until bubbles appear around edge of pan. Add potatoes. Remove at once from flame. Stir until well-blended. Add balance of milk slowly, cracked ice, cream, instant broth, salt, pepper, MSG and garlic powder. Pour half of ingredients into well of blender. Blending must usually be done in two steps since most blenders will not hold all of liquid. Blend for 20 seconds, or until ice dissolves. Add more milk or cream if lighter soup is desired. Pour in chilled cups. Sprinkle with chives.

[recipe_title]Crab Meat and Avocado Coquille[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 lb. fresh or canned crab meat[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size ripe avocado[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup celery, finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons green pepper, finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon Dijon mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1 hard-boiled egg, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons chives, finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons lime juice or lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, MSG seasoning[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large canned pimientos[/recipe]

[recipe]8 large ripe olives[/recipe]

Carefully remove any pieces of tendon or shell from crab meat. In a mixing bowl combine crab meat, mayonnaise, celery, green pepper, mustard, egg, chives and lime juice. Remove avocado from shell. Cut into large dice. Place a large fine-wire strainer over bowl. Force avocado through strainer into bowl. Mix with other ingredients in bowl. Season to taste with salt, pepper and MSG. Pile crab meat into 4 coquille shells, smoothing mounds with a table knife. Cut pimientos crosswise into 1/4-in. rings. Place overlapping rings on top of crab meat. Garnish with ripe olives.

[recipe_title]Marinated shrimp, sour cream dressing[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1-1/2 lbs. cooked shelled shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cider vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup celery, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons fresh thyme, minced, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup chili sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash Tabasco sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 head Boston lettuce[/recipe]

In a deep bowl place shrimps, oil, vinegar, onion, celery, thyme and parsley. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Mix well. Cover bowl, and let mixture marinate at least 4 hours in refrigerator. In a separate bowl combine sour cream, chili sauce and Tabasco sauce. Spoon sour-cream mixture into glass dessert dish or large old-fashioned glass. Place in center of round or oval platter. Place lettuce leaves around platter. Remove shrimp from marinade and arrange on lettuce leaves. (If raw shrimps in shells are used, buy 3 lbs.)

[recipe_title]Swedish potato and kraut salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]6 medium-size potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup sauerkraut, well-drained[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons scallions, finely sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons white-wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons aquavit[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Boil potatoes in jackets until tender, about 1/2 hour. Drain. When cool enough to handle, peel potatoes. Cut into dice about 1/2-in. thick. In a mixing bowl combine scallions, oil, vinegar, sugar, aquavit and parsley. Add potatoes and sauerkraut. Toss thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Chill thoroughly.

[recipe_title]Curried mushroom and asparagus salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 6-oz. cans whole mushrooms, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. pkg. frozen asparagus cuts[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon curry powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon onion, grated[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Cook asparagus until tender. Drain. Chill well. In a mixing bowl combine mayonnaise, sour cream, curry, lemon juice, sugar and onion. Add mushrooms and asparagus, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss carefully until blended. Serve well-chilled.

[recipe_title]Fresh asparagus vinaigrette[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]2 lbs. fresh asparagus, jumbo-size stalks[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 hard-boiled egg yolk[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons chives, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon Dijon mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons roquefort cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

Wash asparagus well, holding tips under cold running water to remove any sand. Run a vegetable peeler over asparagus, starting about 1 in. from tip, to remove scales and stringy outer portion. Cut about 1-1/2 in. from ends of asparagus, removing tough woody parts. Tie asparagus into a bunch with butcher cord. Lower asparagus into boiling salted water and cook until just tender. Don't overcook. Remove from water and chill thoroughly. Combine all other ingredients in blender. Blend 15 seconds. Add salt if desired; cheese is usually salty enough to season dressing. Pour dressing over chilled asparagus on platter or pass dressing in sauceboat.

[recipe_title]Nesselrode chest[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]3/4 cup bottled Nesselrode sauce 8-oz. sponge loaf cake[/recipe]

[recipe]6 oz. ricotta cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]4 oz. triple sec[/recipe]

[recipe]2 oz. light rum[/recipe]

[recipe]Confectioners' sugar[/recipe]

Drain Nesselrode sauce, reserving juice. Combine juice with triple sec and rum, mixing well. Cut off top layer of cake about 1/2-in. thick. Set aside. Hollow out center of cake, leaving chest with 1/2-in.-thick wall all around. Sprinkle half of juice on bottom of cake. Sprinkle balance of juice on inside of top slice. Mix ricotta with Nesselrode fruit. Pile into cake. Place top layer on cake, dry side up. Sprinkle generously with confectioners' sugar, using a flour sifter.

[recipe_title]Strawberries in liqueur[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 quart strawberries, hulled[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup strawberry jelly[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup heavy sweet cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract[/recipe]

[recipe]3 oz. strawberry liqueur[/recipe]

If clear strawberry jelly isn't obtainable, strawberry-and-apple jelly or redcurrant jelly may be substituted. Beat jelly in bowl until soft. Mix strawberries with jelly, coating thoroughly. In a chilled bowl, beat cream until thick. Fold in sugar and vanilla extract. Spoon strawberries into prechilled glass dessert dishes. Spoon whipped cream on strawberries. Pour strawberry liqueur on top.

Summer, it need not be pointed out, is the season for self-indulgent indolence. The above recipes will give one a fare start toward idyllic warm-weather hosting. All right, everybody into the pool.