Beefing It Up

Most knowledgeable beefeaters tend toward split culinary personalities. In their club dining rooms, they call for planked steaks and sizzling steaks, for Delmonicos and Chateaubriands, for filets and contre-filets. But when the black ties are tossed aside in favor of chef's caps, carnivorous men more often than not turn to slices of juicy beef brisket astride wedges of new cabbage, to German Sauerbraten and beef stew in burgundy, Old World dishes for which devotees always have been willing and able to perform a cook's tour of fireside duty. In France, it's axiomatic that if you scratch an urban gourmet, you'll find a peasant with his pot-au-feu. In this country you may not find a peasant, but you'll find a peasant's hearty appetite and, more often than not, his devotion to some traditional rural cuisine.

Rustic beef dishes, those that need lazy simmering in Dutch ovens and deep casseroles, naturally appeal to the kind of male chef who doesn't cook by the minute hand of the clock, who knows how to use a meat mallet, who likes to take time out to tinker with exotic herbs, wine sauces and offbeat marinades. He's wise enough in the ways of hosting to know that the time he spends preparing the strapping, slow-cooking cuts will yield leisure dividends during that mellow period between the tinkle of the cocktail shaker and the sound of the dinner gong. Pot roasts and stews are always at their best a day or so after cooking. Time gives them that state of grace which chefs know simply as blending.

True steermen always chart a course away from any beef cut carrying a suspiciously cheap price tag. They keep a weather eye peeled for the U.S. Prime or Choice citations whenever possible. Don't be misled by those who say that in the stewpot all grades or cuts of beef can eventually be tamed. Ungraded beef or extremely tough shin meat may become soft, but its flavor and texture will remain untoward. Canned corned beef, known as bully beef, for instance, is so tender that it collapses rather than forms into slices under the knife. But you wouldn't talk about it in the same breath you'd mention the prime, apple-red slices of corned beef that appear in a New England boiled dinner or find their way to a heavenly berth between slices of sour rye in the best Broadway bistros.

Between the ox' tongue and tail there are dozens of succulent cuts which are destined for the pot rather than the roasting pan. Employment of both these utensils results, of course, in the pot roast. It isn't necessary to imitate Roman chefs who used to present a whole suckling pig, roasted on one side, boiled on the other. They accomplished the feat by covering one side of the animal with a thick, almost impenetrable paste, after which the carcass was roasted. Later, the paste was knocked off and the unroasted side of the animal was steamed tender. The different culinary languages that spell out the varieties of pot roast are almost infinite in number. Another word for the technique is braising. Besides the simple American pot roast, the two best-known versions are the German Sauerbraten and the French beef alamode. The basic steps are simple. You take a semitender cut of beef. You may or may not marinate it, depending on whether or not you want the meat imbued with the tart flavor of wine or vinegar. You brown the beef in the oven. In this country, too many chefs make the mistake of pan-browning it on top of the stove; this results in weak, washed-out color and flavor. When the browning is finished, the meat is transferred to a pot and liquid added. The liquid may be almost anything potable -- consommé, vinegar, water, stock, chicken broth, brandy, beer, red or white wine, champagne, tomato juice, or combinations of these plus added spices and vegetables.

French beef alamode has established something of a longevity record for being in fashion -- it's stayed in style ever since the 1700s. At that time, a Parisian restaurant owner placed a wooden statue of a bull in front of his bistro. To drive home the fact that he was offering what was then fashionable, he dressed his bull with a blue scarf and gay ostrich feathers. He marinated his beef in wine, browned it, and then cooked it in a pot with the marinade. Modern beef alamode is made the very same way. Sauerbraten, the German version, is marinated somewhat longer in vinegar and water.

An even easier diversion than braising for the amateur chef is boiling. Once the knack is acquired, you can dispense with recipes and hit the bull's-eye with anything from the combination New England platter of boiled fresh beef and corned beef with root vegetables to Henry IV's pot-au-feu, boiled beef with chicken. Actually, "boiling" is a notorious misnomer. You don't boil beef; you simmer it about 20 degrees below the boiling point, keeping the fire low (just as you would shun prolonged high temperatures in roasting) so that the meat will be docile on the carving board and, more important, will retain the liquid essence that makes it truly beef.

Before beef is simmered, there's a small sacrificial step called blanching. You simply place the meat in a pot with cold water, bring it up to the boiling point, and then throw off the water. It's a kind of cleansing operation, before the meat is committed to its final rite in the pot, that purges the meat and its stock of any off-flavors that might have been lurking on the surface. You test boiled beef for tenderness by plunging a two-pronged fork into it in several places. When it's ready, you should be able to withdraw the fork without any undue tug of war.

One more ploy remains. The instant that beef becomes tender is not the propitious time to serve it. During the simmering, beef juices flow into the water. To recapture them, let the meat laze around in its own stock for an hour or so without fire, and it will absorb its goodness.

With boiled beef of any kind -- tongue, plate, chuck, brisket, short ribs or what have you -- serve horseradish, the kind with a real bite. If it doesn't bring tears to the eyes, it's sham horseradish.

The long, slow simmering session for boiled beef offers a perfect opportunity to chill a half-dozen bottles of beer or ale. When beef comes to the table in a sauce, as in the pot roasts, stews and casseroles, it would be hard to imagine better company for it than a robust California red like cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir.

The following recipes serve four.

[recipe_title]Beef En Daube, Dill Sauce[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2-1/2 lbs. bottom round beef, 1-in.-thick slices[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size Spanish onion, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size garlic clove, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]3 cups hot stock[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup dry red wine[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup canned tomatoes, chopped fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons fresh dill, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup dill pickles, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 tablespoons brandy[/drinkRecipe]

Cut meat into 3-in. squares. Trim excess fat. Place beef in shallow roasting pan in oven preheated at 450°. Brown on both sides. In a stewpot melt butter. Add onion and garlic. Sauté until onion is yellow. Slowly stir in flour. Gradually add stock, stirring until smooth. Add wine, tomatoes, parsley, dill, dill pickles and meat. Simmer very slowly, keeping pot covered, until meat is tender, about 2-1/2 hours. Skim fat from gravy. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add brandy.

[recipe_title]Beef Stew Bourguignonne[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 lbs. top sirloin of beef[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. bacon, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons shallots or scallions, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size clove of garlic, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon fresh chervil, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon prepared bouquet garni[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 cups red burgundy wine[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]2 cups stock[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, MSG seasoning[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. small silver onions[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. small fresh mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]14-oz. jar tiny whole carrots[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

Cut beef into strips about 2-in. long, 1-in. wide and 1/4-in. thick. Heat bacon in heavy stewpot. Sauté until bacon becomes crisp. Remove bacon from pan. Let fat remain. Add beef. Sauté until beef loses red color. Add shallots, garlic, parsley, chervil and bouquet garni. Sauté slowly, stirring frequently, until shallots are yellow, not brown. Stir in flour, mixing well. Slowly add wine and stock, stirring well. Add 1 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Simmer slowly until beef is tender, about 2 hours. While beef is cooking, remove skins from onions. Boil onions in salted water until tender. Drain. Wash mushrooms. Sauté in butter until tender. Keep bacon, onions and mushrooms in warm place. Drain carrots when meat is tender, and add to pot. Cook until carrots are heated through. Season stew with salt, pepper and MSG to taste. Pour stew into large serving casserole. Place mushrooms, onions and bacon on top of stew.

[recipe_title]Pot Roast with Caraway[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 lbs. beef rump[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups cold chicken broth[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cup dry white wine[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dry sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 piece celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup canned tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons caraway seeds[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, MSG seasoning[/recipe]

Place beef in a bowl with chicken broth, both kinds of wine, onion, celery, bay leaf, tarragon and tomatoes. Let meat marinate in refrigerator overnight. Turn meat once during marinating period. Remove meat from liquid. Save marinade. Place meat in roasting pan in oven preheated at 450°. Brown meat on all sides, about 30 to 40 minutes. Remove meat from pan. Transfer to stewpot. Add marinade. Simmer meat over low flame. Place caraway seeds in well of blender. Blend about 30 seconds or until seeds are chopped fine. Add to stewpot. Put flour and 1 cup cold water in blender. Blend until smooth. Slowly add to simmer liquid in pot. Skim gravy when necessary. Cook meat until tender, about 2-1/2 hours. Remove onion, celery and bay leaf from pot. When gravy has cooled slightly, slowly stir in sour cream, mixing well with wire whip. If cream does not blend easily with gravy, use an electric blender to make it smooth. Add salt, pepper and MSG to taste. Pour gravy over slices of meat on platter. Pass additional gravy at table.

[recipe_title]Beef Hash Browned, Poached Egg[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 cups cooked beef, very small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size clove of garlic, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup boiled potatoes, very small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup mashed potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, MSG seasoning Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]4 poached eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]2 8-oz. cans tomato sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon fresh chives, minced[/recipe]

Beef must be trimmed of all fat, hard ends or gristle. Sauté onion and garlic in 2 tablespoons butter until onion is yellow. Combine beef, diced boiled potatoes, mashed potatoes, onion and garlic, cream, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Mix very well, adding salt, pepper and MSG to taste. Brown one portion of hash at a time. For each portion heat 1 tablespoon oil in a heavy, cast-iron skillet. Shape each portion into an oblong, like an omelet. Brown hash well on both sides. When portions are complete, keep in a warm place. Heat tomato sauce with 1 tablespoon butter. (Poached eggs may be prepared beforehand, stored in warm water and then reheated for a moment just before serving.) Place hash on dinner plates. Place a poached egg on top of each portion of hash. Sprinkle with chives. Pour tomato sauce around hash.

[recipe_title]Short Ribs of Beef, Piquante Sauce[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 lbs. short ribs of beef[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup onion, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size clove of garlic, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup celery, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup green peppers, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup carrots, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon ground allspice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup cider vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup canned tomatoes, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon beef extract[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, MSG seasoning[/recipe]

(concluded on page 235)Beefing It Up(continued from page 108)

Place short ribs in a shallow roasting pan in oven preheated at 450°. Brown meat, turning once, for about 30 minutes. In a stewpot or Dutch oven, heat salad oil. Add onion, garlic, celery, green peppers, carrots, bay leaf and allspice. Sauté, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes. Remove meat from roasting pan, and transfer to stewpot. Add vinegar, sugar, tomatoes, water and beef extract. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Simmer slowly, covered, until meat is tender, about 2 hours. Skim fat carefully from gravy. If liquid evaporates too much, replace with water or stock. Remove bay leaf. Remove meat and place on large platter. Keep in warm place. Let gravy cool slightly. Pour gravy with all vegetables into blender. Blend 30 seconds or until smooth. Add salt, pepper and MSG to taste. Heat gravy and pour over meat on platter.

[recipe_title]Paupiette of Beef[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2-1/2 lbs. top sirloin of beef sliced 1/4-in. thick[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small clove of garlic, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. "hot" sausage meat[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup canned chestnuts (packed in water)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]12-oz. can chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon beef extract[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup white wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup tomato juice[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]10-1/2-oz. can mushroom gravy[/recipe]

[recipe]7/8-oz. can truffles, drained, chopped fine[/recipe]

Salt, pepper, MSG seasoning

Have butcher cut meat into 12 slices, about 3 by 5 in. Have him tenderize it with a meat mallet, or do the job yourself, flattening each piece as you would for veal scallopini. Sauté onion and garlic in oil until onion is yellow. Add sausage meat to pan and continue to sauté until meat is light brown. Break meat up as much as possible with fork as you would for meat sauce. Break chestnuts into small pieces or cut them into small dice with a knife. In a mixing bowl combine sausage meat, chestnuts, bread crumbs and 2 tablespoons juice from can of chestnuts. Mix well. Add salt to taste. Divide chestnut mixture into 12 parts and place on beef slices. Roll up meat from long end. Fasten each roll with two toothpicks. Place rolls in a shallow pan in oven preheated at 450°. Bake, turning once, until beef rolls are browned. Transfer rolls to a large stewpot or Dutch oven. In a blender pour chicken broth, flour, beef extract, wine and tomato juice. Blend 30 seconds. Pour over meat. Add mushroom gravy and truffles. Simmer, covered, over very low flame, until meat is tender, about 2 hours. Season gravy with salt, pepper and MSG to taste.

These recipes, only a lip-smacking smattering of the bountifully endless varieties of steer-starring fare, should leave your guests with no beef coming.