New Under the Sun

Fashions in the current sartorial swim have come a long way from the bundled-up "hospital-patient" look of long robes and the now square cabana sets that compromised the atmosphere of American beaches with their gaudily overdecorated motifs. Today's trend toward mixing and mating swimming and lounging garb has sent the garish cabana set the way of the great auk.

Now you can express your individuality by creating your own casual combinations. Start in either direction--from the top down or from the bottom up. For example, if you have a favorite turtle-neck or sport shirt, match it with a pair of swim trunks; or start at the bottom and cap your favorite swim trunks (text concluded on page 133) New under the Sun (Continued from page 69) with a sweater or nylon parka. The possibilities are limitless and, as with all good fashion ideas, fun follows function. If you're a really avid aquanaut, and like to linger until dark, a bulky mohair pullover will protect you from the sunset chill. Or, if your skin burns easily, a longsleeved Rugby shirt will cover you handsomely while giving respite from the sun's rays. (To keep your legs from acquiring a boiled-lobster hue on your initial sorties into the sun, white slacks in lightweight fabrics, from Dacron-and-worsted to sailcloth, are good-looking limb-savers.)

On the other hand, no matter how much of a sun worshiper you are, the rituals of taste will require a proper top when you sit down for your poolside lunch. If the sun in blazing, select a covering that is light, comfortable and highly absorbent--such as a feather-weight terrycloth pullover or a cotton-and-rayon hand-washable knit shirt. (And don't forget that when it gets warm enough, it's both casual and correct to roll with the heat by rolling up the sleeves.)

The French Riviera has long been a prime showcase for the top as an expression of the mood and personality of the wearer (cashmere and alpaca cardigans are currently in favor). The casual world a California has become an enthusiastic convert to the top as an admirable and utilitarian accent for swimwear, and this year you will see an impressive increase in both the number and variety of shirts, sweaters and jackets at poolsides and sandy strands all over the country. (The Eastern contribution to this look is the buttondown dress shirt with the sleeves rolled up above the elbow, and the open collar housing an ascot.)

This season, summertime versions of the ski parka will schuss right up to water's edge. Zip-front models come with attached and hidden hoods or, wind-breaker-fashion, with short stand-up military collars. Other versions have crew necks with extended tabs. Drawstrings or side tabs are usually at the bottom, as are the typically "ski" contrasting panels and trims. Another favorite in this group is the pullover parka.

The big news here, however, is in the selection of fabrics and in the way the parka is made to team with suffering and Lastex trunks. Nylon taffeta in unlined versions is bright and popular, and so are vinyl-coated madras, chambray, denim, duck and even seersucker. The color choice is assertive and broad, ranging from stark white to fiery orange. Midsummer is the perfect time to indulge your taste for strong colors, so let yourself glow.

Top tops this summer include any sweater you own--from the lightest alpaca cardigan to your bulkiest mohair pullover--any top from another sport (a football jersey or a classic poplin golf jacket), and any functional piece of work clothing, such as an exercise sweat shirt or the working cowboy's Levi shirt jacket.

When everything topside is shipshape, check to see that you're suitably shod. Casual slip-ons are eminently untile to keep you from accidentally going off the deep end, and can be visually effective as color accents. There is a wide variety of fabrics from which to choose in natural-color knits, bright or subdued madras fabric, seersucker or burlap casuals.

In short, then, chacun à son goût. Forget all the restrictive sartorial rules of pass summers and let your imagination be your guide.