Big Man on Campus

Although we can't guarantee that Playboy's annual campus fashion feature will bring you fame instead of shame (as in the accompanying photo story), we're willing to warrant that if you heed this guide, your peers, especially the fair sex, will regard you as a Big Man On Campus.

To begin with, potential B.M.O.C.s, ready to enter another academic year, will be glad to know that, more than ever, faddishness in fashions is being supplanted by function: With the avantgarde taking a giant step to the rear, good taste joined by utility will help shape a virile and handsome wardrobe. Particularly heartening to freshmen and transfers heading into unfamiliar terrain is the knowledge that regional trends are making up their differences and giving way to a compatible across-the-country profile; while desirable touches of individuality remain in many areas (most often influenced by climate), collegiate duds throughout the nation are becoming more notable for their similarities than for their disparities. This year's campus fashion forecast is divided into two parts--the first describing those apparel items acceptable on any campus in the country, the second predicting those style variations that will appear in this country's six geographic regions.

Setting the pace for a consistent campus silhouette is the blue blazer, which will be the number-one sportswear choice of college men everywhere; sharing its universal acceptance are contrasting gray-flannel trousers (we recommend two pairs), followed closely by versatile chinos (three or four pairs). Several other items in the undergraduate's wardrobe--notably dress outerwear, dress shirts, dinner jackets, shoes and accessories--vary little from coast to coast. Topping these off is the topcoat; fashion-wise collegians will take along a couple (particularly in Northern schools; one will do for the South), choosing from among gabardine, tweed balmacaan, reversible tweed/gabardine, or camel's hair for casual wear, while dress-up occasions suggest a dark-toned semifitted fly-front Chesterfield, a traditional herringbone cheviot in dark gray, or a double-breasted camel's hair. Rainy-day alternates can be a natural, oyster or tan poplin raglan raincoat (with zip-in liner for cool climes) and a black poplin, while weekend winter jaunts to nearby big cities and year-end homecomings will require a fly-front wool overcoat with pile or fur lining.

Although buttondown shirts are still the correct style for dress, a couple of tab collars or the newer buttonless buttondowns (worn with a collar pin) should fill out a collection of from 18 to 24. Blue and white are the dominant solid shades, but stripes are running wild and we're confident that even such wilder hues as yellow and pink will be appreciated. The only rule in neckwear concerns width: Give your pencil-narrow ties, if you still have any, to your kid brother and take along a dozen of the slightly wider (2? to 2 3/4 inches) cravats. Vivid rep stripes are still popular this year, as are classic wool challis and foulards. To complete your initial assortment, balance these with a standard black knit, some elegant club stripes in the small size and a couple of ancient madders, leaving space on your tie rack, however, for later additions from the campus haberdasher.

For those B. M. O. C.s whose names adorn many debutante invitation lists, there's no question that buying, rather than renting, a dinner jacket or two is the proper step; however, even lesser campus lights enjoy the luxury of swinging off for an occasional weekend without the usual last-minute rental-agency bother. The greatest advantage of owning your own formalwear is that it will be tailored to fit you alone. The classic natural-shoulder black-satin shawl collar jacket is de rigueur, with the white shawl collar jacket a commendable alternate for spring and summer.

For comfortably correct stepping out in any part of the country, we recommend a half-dozen pairs of shoes, selected from among brown cordovan plain-toe bluchers, classic loafers, desert-type boots, black slip-ons, grained wing tips and deck or tennis shoes. A record of heavy snowfall in your area will, of course, require ski or rough hide boots. Your dozen-and-a-half pairs of socks should include dark stretch nylons, white and dark crew socks, and over-the-calf dark ribbed Orlons.

As the popularity of Continental-type, loopless trousers wanes, the importance of belts increases. Since fabric belts are still acceptable, take along a couple from last year; but we prefer the trim appearance of one-and-a-quarter-inch alligator belts in brown or black for dress, while for everyday use, we give the nod to beefy harness leather or web styles. You can fill out your collection of a half-dozen belts with a dull calf and a subdued pigskin. Regardless of your school's climatic conditions, you ought to buy a pair of elegant leather gloves to coordinate with your dress topcoat; frosty weather will require, in addition, a couple of pairs of wool-lined gloves.

Whether or not you plan to participate in campus pajama parties, we suggest that you be prepared with three pairs, at least two of them wash-and-wear cottons, the third, a warm knit or flannel (even in the South). A pair of robes in different weights--washable cotton or lightweight wool and heavy terry or heavy wool--will also be useful.

The walk-short look will be fashionable this academic year where the weather warrants it: A minimum collection of four pairs, increasing in number the farther South you go, should be built around madras, white ducks, cords and wash-and-wear poplins. A check list of accessories applicable to any school in the U. S. A. includes odd vests you may have, 18 sets of underwear, a dozen handkerchiefs, a pair of slippers, shower clogs, six pocket squares, formal cuff links and studs, toilet kit, pocket secretary, leather wallet, colognes, shaving lotions and a couple of ascots.

Notwithstanding the national trend toward homogeneity in apparel this school year, there are still subtle--but stylishly important--differences among this country's collegiate regions. These distinctions apply primarily to suits, sweaters, sportswear and hats, all discussed in the pertinent sections that follow.

The Northeast: The three-button natural-shoulder suit still reigns supreme on campuses from Harvard Square to Brooklyn College (and elsewhere throughout the U. S. A.), the only change from last year being that dark shades are no longer mandatory. A balanced selection of four suits will include a navy worsted, medium-gray sharkskin, tan or brown cheviot herringbone and a renascent Donegal tweed, clay-colored Shetland or natural gabardine. (Vests are optional with the light shades.) The correct leisure accent begins with the obligatory blue blazer and goes on to pale, bold-patterned tweeds, camel blazers and, for the warm months, lightweight seersucker jackets. Ten pairs of coordinating slacks--semidress and casual--may be chosen from among dark- and medium-gray flannel, olive hopsack, chino, whipcord and cavalry twill, with dark corduroys and washable whites rising in favor this season among campus pacesetters.

Predictably frigid winter months in New England and the mid-Atlantic states will require, in addition to your overcoat and topcoat, a full complement of casual outerwear. A quilted ski parka, short loden duffel coat and mammoth-plaid jacket will put you in warm shape for anything from quadside snowball fights to gridiron gatherings, while a lightweight tan poplin golf jacket will keep the nip in the air during autumn woodland walks. For under-the-parka comfort, or a welcome touch of color on brisk spring mornings, take along an assortment of six sweaters, including a couple of V-neck pullovers, a crew neck, a cardigan and a boat neck. Cotton and wool jersey turtleneck pullovers in solid shades of white, black and blue will be providing a rakish under-the-sport-shirt look--speaking of which, we suggest a half-dozen sport shirts in solid knits, madras plaids, bold stripes and dark solids.

The top of the male profile will be capped with a wide variety of headgear in the Northeast: Ivy Leaguers will be at their dressed-up best in center-crease felts with raw or welt edges in olive, gray or mustard tan. For between-classes wear, the poplin rain hat is still a favorite, as is the knitted toque for ski weekends and snow festivals; for a casual topper with a little more flair, take along a velour or tweed cap.

The Southeast: Still maintaining its reputation as the best-dressed campus region in the country, the Southeast combines high standards of fashion awareness with deceptively variable temperatures, thus requiring a wardrobe chosen with special care. For seminars, socials and vacation visits back home, a minimum of four natural-shoulder suits is essential. Although the vest is no longer mandatory, it will still be worn by fashion leaders, who will also set the pace with such suits as navy-blue worsteds, glen plaids, and light-toned tweeds and cheviots. Or, you may also choose from among a vested whipcord outfit in natural shades, a light-brown tweed or a black-and-white herringbone tweed.

A leisurely look can be achieved with a trio of blazers (one blue, one camel and the third gray or green), an outspoken herringbone tweed jacket in black and white, a windowpane bold tan Shetland and a brown tweed. Coordinate these with two pairs of light-gray flannels (to go with your blazers), four pairs of tan chinos, two pairs of blue (dark and medium) poplins, a pair of natural whipcords and a blue-gray worsted hopsack. Since the position of the sport shirt on Southeastern campuses is presently in flux, we suggest that you take no more than six--a couple of solid knits, a pair in dark solid colors, a madras and a bold stripe--and see what happens as the season develops.

You'll need only a minimum of really warm-weather apparel in the Southeast. For dressing up, be sure to have at least one topcoat, and, for casual wear, choose from among nylon shells in red, yellow, blue or white, madras pullovers, black or tan poplin golf jackets and fleece-lined waist-length poplins. Sweaters, on the other hand, will make up an important part of your wardrobe; we think you should be prepared with an ample assortment of V necks and cardigans in Shetland, lamb's wool and camel's hair, as well as a sumptuous cashmere or two. Sweater shades in this area are seen rather than heard, so play it safe with camel shades, followed by wine, navy blue and dark green. Since hats are optional, you (concluded on page 158)B.M.O.C.(continued from page 152) can get by with a rain hat and perhaps a sporty tweed cap.

The Deep South: The formula for Deep Southern fashion tastes is dictated by equal parts of sunshine, quality-consciousness and orthodoxy. Accordingly, the natural-shoulder suit--with vest (in spite of the weather)--prevails unquestionably. An array of four light- and middleweight suits, varying in tone and texture from navy-blue to medium-gray herringbone, understated glen plaid, tan gabardine and washable tan poplin, will be an unimpeachable assortment for any social diversion from fraternity bashes to weekend sorties in New Orleans, Atlanta or Palm Beach. Since the Southern sportswear accent is influenced by resort trends, your sports jackets should be appropriately freewheeling. We suggest several bold plaids on light grounds, a vibrantly toned madras, a couple of seersuckers and a camel blazer (in addition to the indispensable blue blazer). Ten pairs of slacks, including a large proportion of washable blends in tan, blue and olive, will suitably round out your casual ensembles.

Although warm outerwear is rarely needed here, the Southern student will want to be ready for unseasonably cold days with a fleece-lined poplin and a brightly colored nylon shell. Sweaters, likewise, are exceptional rather than standard, but a couple, similar in style to those worn by Southeastern matriculants, will come in handy for autumnal events. The sport-shirt scene, on the other hand, is very much alive, with buttondown collars the style-wise choice. Madras in both light and dark grounds, as well as vivid solid shades, will be the prevailing hues, but you can vary your collection with a couple of solid-color knits and some Henley crew shirts.

The Midwest: The predictably unpredictable extremes of weather in mid-America dictate a full complement of outerwear matched by a suitable array of warm-weather apparel for early fall and late spring. With the Ivy League three-button suit as unquestioned here as it ever was (and vests de rigueur), you'll want to start out with a herringbone, cheviot or glen plaid in revived brown tones, supplemented by a heather mix of olive or blue in tweed, a gray flannel and a dark-blue worsted sharkskin; include, for warmer days, a tropicalweight blend in either black or navy. For quadrangle bull sessions and beer-hall elbow bending, a jaunty leisure look can be achieved with sports jackets in bold tweeds, also light-colored but outspoken patterns of plaid Shetland and brown herringbone. Slacks coordinates will range from the classic gray flannels to taupe corduroys, olive gabardines, tan chinos, worsted whipcords and, for late spring, washable whites.

One of the brighter aspects of matriculating in the Midwest is the wide variety of great-looking winterwear you can add to your wardrobe. Prismatic ski parkas, suave suede jackets, virile loden and duffel coats are all nifty for the casual campus scene, while, for weekend dates in Chicago or St. Louis, this season's fur-collared tweed coats and handsome pile-or fur-lined jackets are noteworthy. For wintry under-the-coat comfort, bulky ski sweaters and classic V-neck Shetlands are top choices; since there are few hard-fast rules regarding knitwear in the Midwest, the balance of your initial four-sweater assortment may be freely selected. Going counter to the national trend toward lighter colors, this section favors deep-dyed shades in sport shirts. We recommend, as your first choice, several of these in solid colors, supplemented by a madras, a couple of bold stripes and plaid patterns, making a total of eight.

The Southwest: The give and take of fashion influences is seen most clearly in this sharply individualistic area. Harness-leather belts and bold brass buckles originated here and are now seen all over the country; similarly, fields of Southwest-inspired wheat jeans are being cultivated as far North as Seattle, as far East as Princeton; modified Western boots and ten-gallon hats, also born and bred in this region, have become a frequent item on campuses everywhere. Conversely, the traditional natural-shoulder outline is so firmly entrenched here that it brooks no exceptions. You'll need four suits, and we think you'll be decorously attired in a vested navy worsted, a dark-gray flannel, a light-gray herringbone and a medium-gray glen plaid.

For an impeccable leisure look, we recommend five sports jackets: a camel blazer added to your necessary navy jacket, a seersucker in burgundy, a medium plaid Shetland and a rugged herringbone tweed. Ten pairs of slacks, chosen from among basic gray flannels and chinos for chill Southwestern evenings, and wash-and-wear summerweights for blistering high noons, will coordinate correctly. Outerwear, too, should be chosen with an eye to the thermometer: For after-dinner playmate prospecting, take along a quilted nylon ski jacket, a lined waist-length jacket, or a three-quarter-length car coat.

Southwestern tastes in sweaters range from wild to woolly, with undergraduates competing to see who can accumulate a larger and more colorful collection. Accordingly, you'll need a minimum of eight, varying these from regulation camel's-hair cardigans to Shetland and lamb's-wool crew necks and V necks, from mohairs, alpacas and heather mixes to flag-bright bulky knits and ski types. In a reversal of last year's trend toward subdued tones, standard sport-shirt styles will be seen in vivid bursts of color, Ban-Lon and cotton knits will show up in every hue, and madras in bold plaids promises to be popular. To balance your assortment of 12 shirts, include a couple of conservative hopsacks in dark solid tones. Although bare heads are OK in this section, you may want a rain hat and gray center-crease felt for dates, and a cloth tweed lid for informal occasions.

The West Coast: Nowhere in the United States are fashion preferences so sharply unpredictable as in the freewheeling Western states, which, from an apparel point of view, have little in common other than a justified reputation for sartorial independence. West Coasters, for example, will depart from nationwide style trends by sporting jaunty short-sleeve cardigans, venturesome self-supporting slacks and evening suits in glistening mohair. Even though the natural-shoulder accent is prevalent in the Pacific States, its importance is attenuated by a universal casualness of dress that is acceptable for even the most formal occasions. Since you won't need the collection of four vested suits standard for most other campuses, choose a couple or three from among sharkskins in black, navy or gray, natural gabardine and taupe hopsack. Naturally, your leisure wardrobe will be correspondingly large: Complement your blue blazer with one in olive or camel; add to these an assortment of sports jackets in gray herringbone tweed, madras, seersucker and blended polyester-worsted (in one of the new clay tones). Complete your casual ensembles with several pairs of the standard flannel and worsted trousers, plus an ample supply of lightweights (the number determined by your geographical location), and leave room on your slacks rack for a pair or two of locally purchased beltless trousers.

Northwestern matriculants will need a full supply of outerwear, including at least a ski parka, a corduroy stadium coat and a three-quarter-length camel-toned raglan with leather trim. For California, any one of these, or a navy convoy coat, will be sufficient. Because there are no definitive sweater trends in the West, you can take along anything from lamb's wool to cashmere, from light alpaca to heavy bulky knits. We recommend at least a dozen sport shirts, all buttondown except for a selection of solid knits and a sweat shirt or two. Colors run rampant here, so take your pick of many hues in velours, madras, bold stripes, hopsacks and tartans. Since hats are optional, don't burden your skull with more than a couple: a poplin for rain and a tweed cap for dates.

There it is. School fashions have never been better looking--yet more masculine--than they will be this year. Relax and enjoy them.