Après-Ski Cuisine

There are few things on this earth that put a ravenous edge on a man's appetite the way a bracing, frost-nipped day spent on ski slopes does. When the day's skiing is over, Valhalla seems near at hand as the mountain air becomes suffused with the man-made aromas of hot seafood chowder, strong coffee and steaming rum toddies.

There are a number of techniques for negotiating a ski feast. You can muster the whole meal, ready-made—from quiche Lorraine to cognac—using any first-class restaurant or club kitchen as your commissary, and then transport it intact to your lodge where the simple chore of reheating is all that's required. Of course, if your lodge's larder and kitchen facilities lend themselves to on-the-scene cookery, you may prefer starting from scratch. Or you can cook stew or glaze spareribs in your own kitchen beforehand, pack them in widemouthed vacuum jugs and insulated picnic bags, then simply unpack when you're ready to serve the hungry snowmen and their snow bunnies. A gourmet-inclined ski host of the one-day-sojourn-to-a-nearby-slope persuasion carries raw food in his station wagon, (continued on page 153)Après-Ski Cuisine(continued from page 97) drops the tail gate for a buffet table, lights the hibachi or gasoline stove and broils the teriyaki or sautés the steaks to order. For the short haul, a big wicker basket is eminently useful.

If you think the latter approach sounds very much like a summer picnic, you'll soon discover major differences. There are no ants in the winter, a consummation devoutly to be enjoyed. On the other hand, there are some ski stamping grounds where Klondike readings on the thermometer cause dinner plates or mugs carried in the luggage section to become so frostbitten they can hardly be handled; it's wise to protect them in an insulated picnic box—normally used in the summer to keep things cold. If you're carrying hot grog, remember that most winter drinks are made with boiling water, and the mugs are really tall drinks. If in the summer you're in the habit of toting a quart of liquor, you'll have come to know that your quart is the equivalent of 16 two-ounce jiggers. A quart of mulled whiskey, on the other hand, will just about fill four mugs. It's the experience of most winter picnickers that a gallon vacuum jug isn't too much for reviving a party of four to six skiers.

Every first-rate bartender understands the principle of heat transfer. To keep your hot grog hot, you should preheat the vacuum jug. Pour boiling water into it and let it remain for about five minutes. Then empty it and pour in the hot potation.

There was a time when buying cooked collations meant a lot of bother. Advance shopping these days requires about as much effort as a trip on a chair lift. If you've access to a Swedish food shop or café, Swedish meat balls in brown gravy, flavored with allspice, as well as sweet and sour baked beans, seem especially designed for modern appetites. Neapolitan Italy may not be the habitat for skiing, but any of the small pastas in rich cheese sauce or tomato sauce are perfect for relishing under the open sky. Food knickknackery such as aspic stars and water-cress bouquets have no place in the snow, but a jar of Italian olive-and-pepper salad in olive oil or the crisp sour German or Danish Senfgurlten provide fine munching. For cooking on the station-wagon barbecue, tender meats such as minute steaks, lamb steaks or ham steaks or teriyaki (soy-flavored beef threaded on a skewer or bamboo stick) are all quickly done over a crackling fire. The double-size hibachi works just fine.

Explorers of ski trails still find sweets as important as they used to be in the days of the knapsack and the chocolate bar. Any snow-based buffet menu should have its sweet ending. Slices of brandy-soaked or rum-soaked fruitcake are easily clutched and maneuverable. Swiss apple turnovers or the French almond-paste-covered tarts are perfect with hot coffee.

Of the recipes which follow, the hot hors d'oeuvres and the beef with onion-horseradish sauce are planned for aprés-ski dining in the luxury of your lodge. The rest are for the kind of hot food and drink that can be consumed either alfresco at the scene of the climb or before a roaring hearth in your ski snuggery.

[recipe_title]Hot Drambuie Toddy[/recipe_title]

(Serves one)

[recipe]2 ozs. Drambuie[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 slice lemon 1 slice orange[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. boiling water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 piece stick cinnamon[/recipe]

Pour Drambuie and lemon juice into preheated mug or punch cup. (To preheat mug, fill with boiling water for about a minute, then discard water.) Add lemon slice, orange slice and 4 ozs. boiling water. Stir with cinnamon stick. Let cinnamon stick remain in mug.

[recipe_title]Buttered Quarter Deck[/recipe_title]

(Serves one)

[recipe]2 ozs. golden rum[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon dark Jamaica rum[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. dark sweet sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of i/2 lime[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 thin slice lime[/recipe]

[recipe]5 ozs. boiling water[/recipe]

Put all ingredients into preheated mug or punch cup. Stir well.

[recipe_title]Hot Southern Comfort Nog[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]6 ozs. milk[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. Southern Comfort[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]Freshly grated nutmeg[/recipe]

Heat milk and heavy cream in saucepan. Bring up to the boiling point, but do not boil. In a narrow bowl, beat egg until thick and lemon colored. Slowly add sugar while beating. Stir in Southern Comfort and bourbon. Slowly stir in milk-cream mixture. Pour into preheated mugs. Sprinkle with nutmeg.

[recipe_title]Hot Gruyère and Anchovy Canapés[/recipe_title]

(24 pieces)

[recipe]4 slices white bread[/recipe]

[recipe]Sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. gruyère cheese, shredded[/recipe]

[recipe]8 flat anchovy fillets, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese Paprika[/recipe]

Preheat oven at 450°. Toast bread under broiler on one side only. Spread untoasted side with butter. Mix gruyère cheese with minced anchovy fillets, mayonnaise and parmesan cheese. Spread cheese mixture evenly on untoasted sides of bread. Sprinkle with paprika. Place bread, cheese side up, on the back of a large baking pan or cookie sheet. Bake 5 minutes. Cut each slice into 6 pieces. Serve very hot, on platter with large paper doily or cloth napkin.

[recipe_title]Mussel Chowder[/recipe_title]

(Two quarts)

[recipe]1 large onion, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon flour[/recipe]

[recipe]9-oz. can mussels[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. bottle clam juice[/recipe]

[recipe]3 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]3 packets instant bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]3 medium-size potatoes, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]4-oz. jar pimientos, drained, small dice Salt, pepper, celery salt, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

In soup pot sauté onion, celery and garlic in butter until onion just turns yellow. Avoid browning. Add bay leaf, parsley and thyme. Stir in flour, mixing well. Add juice from mussels, clam juice and water. Bring to a boil. Add bouillon powder and potatoes. Simmer slowly, until potatoes are very tender—about 1/2 hour. Cut mussels into medium-size dice. Add mussels, milk, cream and pimientos to pot. Bring up to the boiling point, but do not boil. Season to taste.

[recipe_title]Shrimp Beignets[/recipe_title]

(About four doz., hors d'oeuvre size)

[recipe]7-oz. pkg. frozen cleaned and peeled shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup water[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon celery salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon white pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup all-purpose flour[/recipe]

[recipe]4 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion[/recipe]

[recipe]Deep fat for frying[/recipe]

Cook shrimps, following directions on package. Drain and put through meat grinder, using fine blade. Bring water to a boil in a heavy saucepan. Add butter, monosodium glutamate, salt, celery salt and pepper. When butter melts, add flour all at once. Stir well. Remove from flame. Stir until no dry flour is visible—batter will be very stiff. Transfer batter to electric mixer. Gradually add unbeaten eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Grate onion into batter. Add ground shrimps and mix well. Keep batter, covered, in refrigerator until very cold—at least 2 hours. Heat deep fat to 370° or until it shows the first wisp of smoke; or heat 1 in. fat in electric skillet preheated at 370°. Drop batter by heaping teaspoons into fat. Turn once to brown on both sides. Drain on absorbent paper. Sprinkle with salt and serve with Chinese-style mustard.

[recipe_title]Spareribs, Fruit Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves jour)

[recipe]3 lbs. spareribs[recipe]

[recipe]1 cup brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 3 lemons[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 2 oranges[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size onions, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, smashed[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dry mustard[/recipe]

Have butcher cut spareribs into serving-size pieces. Place spareribs in a bowl. Mix brown sugar, lemon juice and orange juice until sugar dissolves. Pour over spareribs. Add onions and garlic; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and marinate overnight, turning meat several times to marinate thoroughly. Place spareribs in a baking pan, sufficiently large so that pieces of meat only slightly overlap. Strain marinade into pan. Preheat oven at 325°. Bake spareribs, uncovered, about 2 hours, or until well browned and tender. Turn meat to brown on both sides. Baste about every 20 minutes with liquid in pan. Remove ribs from pan and keep in a warm place. Remove fat from drippings. This can be done quickly by pouring liquid from baking pan into a bowl or saucepan and adding a tray of ice cubes. The fat will solidify, and liquid can then be poured into small saucepan. Heat liquid up to boiling point. Dissolve cornstarch and mustard in 2 tablespoons cold water. Slowly stir into sauce. Simmer 2 or 3 minutes. Serve sauce either hot or cold with spareribs. If spareribs are to be reheated, place in baking pan, cover with aluminum foil, reheat in moderate oven.

[recipe_title]Braised Beef, Onion-Horseradish Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2-lb. eye of the round roast[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large onions[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1 carrot[/recipe]

[recipe]6 sprigs parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]4 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]2 packets instant bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup quick-cooking rice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons horseradish[/recipe]

[recipe]Bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Butter[/recipe]

Place meat, fat side up, in shallow uncovered roasting pan in oven preheated at 450°. Roast 30 to 40 minutes or until meat is well browned. Transfer meat to large saucepan or Dutch oven. Add onions, celery, carrot, parsley and 4 cups water. Add 1 teaspoon salt and bouillon powder. If there are drippings from pan in which meat was roasted, pour l/2 cup boiling water into roasting pan, scrape to loosen all drippings and pour into saucepan. Cover pan with tight lid and simmer over very low flame until meat is tender—about 2-1/1 hours. Remove meat from pan and cool for at least a half hour; or use next day, if desired. Cook rice, following directions on package. Put rice, onions from pot and 2 cups liquid from pot into electric blender. (Do not blend liquid while hot.) Blend 30 seconds or until sauce is smooth. Add horseradish and season with salt and pepper. Cut meat lengthwise in half, then into slices 1/8 in. thick. Place slices in a large shallow casserole in stacks of 3 or 4 each. Between each slice spoon about a teaspoon of sauce. Pour balance of sauce over stacks of meat. Sprinkle generously with bread crumbs, lightly with paprika. Dot with butter. Bake in oven, preheated at 375°, 25 to 30 minutes or until bread crumbs are browned.

[recipe_title]Beef in Mustard Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]3 lbs. top sirloin of beef[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 Spanish onion, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry red wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup apple brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can tomato sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon ground coriander[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup prepared mustard[/recipe]

Cut beef into strips 1/3 in. thick and 3/4 in. square, or have butcher do this rather tedious job for you. Be sure beef is not thicker than 1/8 in. Heat oil in heavy saucepan or Dutch oven. Sauté beef until it loses its red color. Add onion, garlic and celery. Simmer 5 minutes longer. Keep pot tightly covered to save meat juices. Add wine, apple brandy, tomato sauce, coriander, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper and 1/8 teaspoon monosodium glutamate. When gravy boils, dissolve cornstarch in 2 tablespoons cold water and slowly stir into pan. Simmer very slowly, stirring occasionally until meat is tender—about 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Remove pan from flame and slowly stir in cream and mustard. Correct seasoning.

It matters not whether the troops under your command have spent the day on the beginners' slopes or have schussed with professional perfection; these gustatorial rewards will make one and all feel as though they've just won a gold medal for the giant slalom.