From Russia with Love

Centuries ago, long before Lenin introduced the lowest common denominator to Russia, status-seeking boyars, hungry for both food and culture, turned to France for the fine art of cooking. One of Peter the Great's most valuable souvenirs picked up during a trip to western Europe was a Parisian chef. However, when Frenchmen in large numbers went uninvited to Russia during the Napoleonic campaign, the Russians, as every schoolboy knows, taught them a lesson in deepfreezing. One of the exhibits in the object lesson was the eminent French chef Laguipière, who had been cooking for French Marshal Murat and who regrettably expired in the snowy reaches of Vilna without leaving a single recipe.

Two years later, in a friendlier era, Czar Alexander I, who had been dining at the Paris mansion of Monsieur de Talleyrand, ate so well that he asked if he, too, couldn't take back the chef as his souvenir. There was a little delay, but eventually Talleyrand fixed things up, and the great (continued on page 154) From Russia (continued from page 79) Marie Antoine Carême, founder of what we now know as classic French cooking, went to the court of St. Petersburg. Before he left France, however, Talleyrand briefed him well, and explained that during Carême's Russian sojourn he was to be a spy in chef's uniform. At the end of each of the czar's state banquets, the important items of conversation were in Carême's head, and were duly transmitted to France. In the light of his contributions to Russian cuisine, it was a small price to pay. Just to show the Russkies the subtleties of which he was capable, Carême created the light dessert of spongecake and cream known today as charlotte russe.

As time went by, the paws of the Russian bear seemed to have made as much of a lasting imprint on French cookery as the French made on the Russian. (Incidentally, grilled breaded bears' paws, served with a sweet-and-sour sauce, have always been a great Russian delicacy.) When the Count of Monte Cristo was able to feast in the manner to which he was accustomed, what did he order? Nothing less than a giant sturgeon from the Volga. Russian soups such as borsch, rassolnik and stchi are part of the repertoire of every eminent French chef. Beef Stroganoff seems to be scoring a commanding lead over beef bourguignon. The French brochette d'agneau is simply Russian shashlik, or lamb on a sword, a patio favorite all over the world.

The pinnacle of the Russian table, of course, is the regal roe of the sturgeon. The Russians call caviar their black jewels, and they resent outsiders who dishonor the jewels with onion or chopped hard-boiled egg. Caviar, not only in Russia but all over the world, shines as the highest badge of luxury eating. Along with chicken â la Kiev, borsch and piroshki, it proves that the one art that revolution never bullies is a fine cuisine.

In Chekhov's day a Russian would rather not entertain at all if he couldn't entertain lavishly. His zakuskas (appetizers) spread on a buffet table began with a vast sea of little fish--sardines, anchovies, sprats, smoked fish, jellied fish, fish in oil, in cream, in dill, in wine, in mustard, in onions--followed by smoked hams, game and pâtés, pickled vegetables, a whole galaxy of salads which in turn led to the hot zakuskas containing anything from blini with caviar to hot mushrooms in sour-cream sauce to tiny balls of lamb. A favorite Russian indoor sport was to watch non-Russians stuff themselves like force-fed geese, thinking they were enjoying a buffet dinner, only to be ushered from the zakuska table to the dining room where a 23-course repast awaited them. At this point the fun began in earnest for the Russian hosts, who, following the best custom of the day, didn't eat with the guests but circulated among them, cajoling them to have one more rich piroshki with the soup, pleading with them to fill their glasses just one more time with champagne, begging them to have one last ladleful of pashka, a Brobdingnagian dessert made of cottage cheese, butter, whipped cream, sugar and candied fruit. Even today the lavish tradition goes on in crowded Russian apartments where couples band together for a giant communal feast, each supplying one of the festive courses.

The pungent Russian ballet with food tends to swirl around the sour rather than the sweet. No Russian chef would think of beginning his day's work without his smetana, or sour cream, just as no French chef could possibly operate without sweet cream. In rassolnik, the Russian giblet soup, there are always sliced sour pickles to keep the zest flowing until the last spoonful. The herb dill, with its tart overtones, is everywhere. And there are seemingly limitless permutations on the cucumber theme. Crisp young cucumbers are in cold soup, in cucumber and turnip salad, with sour cream, in cucumber sauce. Many a Russian begins his day by eating cucumbers.

One of the most prodigal of Russian feast dishes is the Armenian mixed grill of fowl. Large and small birds--from geese to chicken to hazel hens--are split, brushed with oil and lemon, and slowly barbecued over a charcoal fire. The revolving electric spit with pan beneath is perfect for even cooking in this kind of gastronomic production. Naturally, the grilling time varies with the size of each bird. A quail will need only about 10 to 15 minutes. A grilled small duckling or baby turkey will want from 45 minutes to an hour. Tart cold fruit sauces are commendable comrades for grilled fowl.

A Russian legend tells how the Lord, after making the entire world, its mountains, oceans and rivers, asked the people if they were satisfied. Spokesmen for all nations hurried to say how pleased they were--all except the Russian, who, in all humility, stepped up and said, "Please, Lord, don't forget some vodka." Generally the Russian has two motives for drinking vodka. The first is to find as many excuses as possible for eating caviar, herring, anchovies and the myriad appetizers that always follow the downing of neat iced vodka. The second is to get roaring drunk. Dare-deviltry and drinking have been synonymous ever since Peter the Great founded his College of Drunkards, a club of irreverent drainpipes. Modern Russian blades at bachelor parties are always challenged to drink the name of the bride spelled out in glasses filled with vodka. If the girl happens to be an Ene Popov, the challenge is easily tossed off. But if she happens to be an Anastasia Bogomolova, the session calls for long, hollow legs, indeed.

Russian gourmets these days tend to frown on their native vodka. The reason for their attitude is that Russian vodka seldom attains the finesse of the product now produced by American distillers. The acrid flavor of the 100-proof Russian vodka available in this country reminds one of raw grain spirits before they're disciplined by charcoal. A particularly scalp-raising variety of Russian vodka called pertsovka is flavored with hot chili peppers. An exception to the rule is the imported zubrovka; blended with the herb known as buffalo grass, it proves to be a subtle, smooth potion.

The recipes that follow--variations on those long hallowed by Volga gravy-boatmen--are tailor-made to suit the palate of the most urbane American commissar of cuisine.

[recipe_title]Eggplant Caviar[/recipe_title]

(Eight appetizer portions)

[recipe]1 large eggplant[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size fresh tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size onions, very small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small clove garlic, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2green pepper, very small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons finely minced fresh dill Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

Place eggplant in shallow pan in oven preheated at 450°. Bake 45 minutes, turning once to bake evenly. Remove from pan and cut in half lengthwise. With sharp paring knife or grapefruit knife, remove pulp from eggplant shell; avoid tearing shell. Cut pulp into very small dice and set aside. Set the eggplant shells aside. Lower tomatoes into a pot of rapidly boiling water for 20--30 seconds, then hold them under cold running water for a few seconds, peel off the skin and remove stem ends Press tomatoes to squeeze out excess liquid, then cut them into very small dice. In a shallow saucepan heat oil. Add onion, garlic, green pepper, eggplant and tomatoes. Sauté slowly, stirring frequently, ten minutes or until all vegetables are tender. Add lemon juice, dill, and salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate to taste. Spoon cooked mixture into eggplant shells. Chill in refrigerator until ice cold.

[recipe_title]Anchovy Piroshki[/recipe_title]

(About 14 pieces)

[recipe]2 unbaked pie shells, 9-in. diameter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup mashed potatoes (without milk) 10 anchovy fillets, minced fine Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons milk[/recipe]

Preheat oven at 425°. Sauté onion in butter until onion turns yellow. Combine onion, potatoes and anchovies and season to taste. Place pie shells on floured board and cut each into 7 round pieces, using standard old fashioned glass, 3 in. in diameter across top, for cutting. On each piece of dough place about 2 teaspoons potato mixture. Lift one end of dough over potato mixture to make crescent-shaped turnovers. Press edges of dough with fingers, sealing tightly. Press again with tines of fork. Trim off any ragged edges. Combine egg and milk, mixing well. Brush each turnover with egg mixture and place on lightly greased cookie sheet or shallow pan. Bake 20 minutes or until well browned. Serve with soup.

[recipe_title]Onion Borsch[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]16-oz. can beets, cut julienne[/recipe]

[recipe]1 quart chicken broth or stock[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4cup red wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. sliced boiled ham, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons cognac[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate Sour cream[/recipe]

Borsch is best made one day and served the next. Cut onion in half through stem end, then cut crosswise into thinnest possible strips. In soup pot sauté onion in 2 tablespoons butter until onion is limp and yellow, not brown. Add beets, together with their juice, and chicken broth. (Water and instant bouillon powder may be used in place of chicken broth.) Peel potatoes and cut into very thin slices. Cut slices into julienne strips the same thickness as the beets. Add potatoes to pot and simmer slowly until potatoes are tender. Add lemon juice, vinegar, sugar and ham. Simmer 10 minutes. Remove from fire and stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Add cognac, salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate to taste. Add more sugar or vinegar, if necessary, to taste. Serve topped with generous dollops of sour cream.

[recipe_title]Mushroom Dill Soup[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]Lamb bone from leg of lamb[/recipe]

[recipe]3 medium-size onions[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery[/recipe]

[recipe]2 carrots[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. fresh mushrooms, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]4 packets instant bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons minced fresh dill Sour cream[/recipe]

The stock for this soup may be made from the leg of lamb used in the shashlik recipe below. Tell the butcher who bones the leg of lamb that you want the meat from the shank end and any meat trimmings that might be useful for the soup pot. Place lamb bone in pot with 2 onions, 1 piece celery and 1 carrot. Add 2 quarts water and simmer slowly l1/2 to 2 hours. Season with salt and pepper. Skim excess fat and strain broth, discarding vegetables. Cut meat adhering to bone into small dice and set aside. Cut remaining 1 onion, 1 piece celery and 1 carrot into small dice. In another pot sauté diced mushrooms, onion, celery and carrot in butter until onion is yellow. Stir in flour, mixing well. Add strained stock. There should be l1/2 quarts liquid. Add water if necessary to make this quantity. Add bouillon powder and simmer slowly 1/2 hour. Add diced lamb, light cream and dill. Bring up to the boiling point but do not boil. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve topped with dollops of sour cream.

[recipe_title]Chicken à La Kiev[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]3 whole large chicken breasts Salt, white pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil for frying[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. sliced mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced shallots or spring onions[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons bread crumbs[/recipe]

Have the chicken breasts boned and cut lengthwise in half. Put chicken breasts between two sheets of wax paper and, using a meat mallet or flat side of cleaver, pound meat as thin as in Italian-style veal cutlets, but avoid tearing flesh. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cut pieces of butter about 11/2 in. long and 1/2 in. thick, and place one on each chicken breast. Roll up breast from long side around butter. Fold in ends so that butter is well enclosed. Chill in refrigerator to harden butter. Put flour, milk, egg and 1/2 teaspoon salt in well of blender and blend until smooth. Heat oil to a depth of 1/2 in. in electric skillet preheated at 370°. Preheat oven at 425°. Dip rolled chicken in batter, coating thoroughly. Fry chicken until medium brown, turning when necessary. Transfer chicken to shallow pan. Bake in oven 5 to 8 minutes. Sauté' mushrooms and shallots in remaining butter (there should be about 2 tablespoons) until mushrooms are tender. Add light cream, bread crumbs and salt and pepper to taste. Bring sauce up to boiling point. Pour sauce on serving platter and place chicken on sauce. Warn guests to avoid sputtering butter when cutting.

[recipe_title]Shashlik with Cucumbers[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]6- to 7-lb. leg of spring lamb[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]4 large cucumbers[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size onions, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]4 large cloves garlic, smashed[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sweet butter at room temperature[/recipe]

Have butcher bone lamb and cut into cubes about 1 in. thick. (Lamb bone and meat attached to it may be used for soup stock.) Place lamb in large bowl with 1/2 cup salad oil and juice of 1 lemon. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Marinate overnight, turning meat several times to marinate completely. Peel cucumbers and cut in half lengthwise, then crosswise into slices about 3/4 in. thick. In separate bowl place cucumbers with remaining 1/2 cup oil, vinegar, onions and garlic. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Marinate overnight. Thread skewers alternately with lamb and cucumbers. Broil over charcoal or under very hot broiler flame until meat is well browned. Brush with butter.

[recipe_title]Cold Cherry Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]19-oz. can sour pitted red cherries[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons cider vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash Tabasco sauce[/recipe]

Drain cherries well, reserving 2 tablespoons juice. Place cherries in blender with the 2 tablespoons juice and remaining ingredients. Blend until smooth. Chill well in refrigerator. Serve with barbecued fowl or game.

[recipe_title]Apricot Compote[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]12-oz. pkg. large dried apricots[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup granulated sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon vanilla extract[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons kummel[/recipe]

Place apricots in saucepan. Add water to pan so that top of fruit is covered by about 1 in. of water. Bring to boil; reduce flame and simmer very slowly about 10--12 minutes. Add sugar and simmer 5 minutes longer or until fruit is very tender. Remove pan from flame. Add vanilla. Chill well in refrigerator. In small narrow bowl beat cream until thick. Fold in confectioners' sugar and kummel. Serve apricot compote in glass dessert dishes or saucer champagne glasses. Spoon cream on top.

With the preceding recipes at your disposal, you won't have to set forth the classic 23-course Russian meal in order to make an impression on your guests. Their compliments, however, will be prodigious.