Playboy's Spring & Summer Fashion Forecast

When some nameless English bard sang that "sumer is icumen in," he was probably lucky if he could find a decent jerkin to wear at Runnymede for the signing of the Magna Charta. When warm weather begins to break on the scene these days, however, a man is often even luckier if he can pick his way through the sometimes bewildering array of new styles and costumery drat is served up each year for every summertime activity from country-club dancing to keeping cool on the way to work.

To help our readers select a summer wardrobe that is stylishly correct and in keeping with today's active outdoor life, we herewith present the results of our labors--an item-by-item check list of predictions of the best in warm-weather fashions to come.

Suits: We see two important new trends in suits coming up this season. The first is in subtle new uses of silk and imitation silk. The heavy-looking nubs of the past have been brought down to give these styles a smooth-textured appearance. While there will still be surface interest in the material, the tone will be soft and understated. Price tags on these suits will meander from the economy to the luxury class, but good fashion buys should be available in all ranges. The big colors will be natural-looking tans, grays and other light shades. A second direction we predict and endorse heartily is the revival of stripes for summer suits. The slightly formal-looking (text continued on page 107) thin stripe that had been the province of the fall and winter business suit now definitely belongs in your warm-weather wardrobe as well. These muted summer styles offer new possibilities for plain and fancy stripe combinations. You can contrast a thin-lined suit with a broad-striped colored shirt and add a close-striped tie to complete the coordination.

No matter how much of a traditionalist you've been in the past, try to relax and break out of the rigidity of "button-down living" this summer. Expand your wardrobe with the latest in menswear--the shaped suit. You will hear it referred to as "shaped," "fitted," "body-traced," or whatever else the local jargon whips up. Essentially, the style is another example of the revival of British-type tailoring we noted in our European Fashion Dateline(February 1965) now adapted for American warm-weather wear. It gives the appearance of custom tailoring without the tight sharpness of the old Continental styling.

We can happily predict that natural-color suits will be showing up everywhere. This one-tone natural was an absolute must in a gentleman's wardrobe during the 1930s. Now it is a pleasure to put our own push behind its return to the wardrobe fold. It is worn to best effect with a colored shirt and tie, a strong paisley or patterned pocket square and topped with a jaunty straw.

Sports Jackets And Color Coordinates: The silken trend in suits will be carried over into sports clothes. But here the style comes off best using rough-texture silk tweeds, bold diagonals or large-scale herringbones. We also anticipate there will be a great many patternless solid-color jackets available in a new range of soft ice-cream shades such as lemon, lime, orange and blue. Like the Mississippi, madras just keeps rolling along and will hold its position as a summer classic. But denims and seersuckers will be strong again this year, with new patterns and large, bright stripes. The blazer is another warm-weather indestructible and will be seen this spring in a variety of materials from natural linen to the classic navy-blue hopsack. If you like to create an avant-garde effect, try the combination of a solid-color double-breasted blazer with checked slacks and white shoes.

The idea of a color coordinate, where the manufacturer makes an entirely complemented outfit of slacks and jacket designed to be sold together, is something we have been advocating for a long time. This season, we are pleased to report, there will be a great many excellent coordinates around in all colors and combinations.

Slacks and Shorts: Slacks will certainly continue on in the slim, cuffless tradition. Many will be making the scene with coordinated self-belts of the same material as the trouser fabric.

Belted slacks in light, bright shades are better than par for golf. Moderately tapered slacks are best for country wear. Adjustable tab slacks in dark and medium shades are always appropriate for business or town wear. White cottons are still standard for boating and the shore. The range in slacks fabrics seems almost endless--hopsackings, sharkskins, flannels, worsteds, linens, homespuns, poplins and twills will all be readily available.

It figures that the best tailoring elements in slacks should carry over to walk shorts and offer such popular features as wide belt loops and fancy L-shaped pockets. Patch madras and madras plaids will continue in high favor with the walk-short set, along with stripes and checks. For the studied casual look of an upbeat beachcomber, there will be cutoff jeans in white and tan denim.

Shirts and Sweaters: The shirt jac, a casual style worn outside the trousers, is something we have boosted since its first appearance (The Playboy Shirt-Jacket, Playboy, March 1963). This should be a big year for the jac, and the choice in fabrics, collar styles and patterns will be broad. There will also be some very handsome rough-textured models on the market, but you might do well to check before buying and be sure you are physically comfortable in them. Many are too heavy for warm-weather wear to suit our taste.

A vote for high honors among new jacs goes to a series of tricot styles in acetate and acetate-and-rayon blends. Tricot had a surge as a shirt fabric back in the early 1950s, but was plagued by an irksome tendency to cling, and practically disappeared. Since then there have been many improvements in the fabric. It tailors well and keeps the airy construction that first made it popular, but without sticking. We see tricot now getting the second chance it deserves.

Sports-minded knit shirts will again be very much part of the summer scene. The Henley shirt in striped textures, terrycloth, and even velour, will be around, as well as pullovers and button-front cardigan models.

Collared sport shirts will present a broad spectrum of weaves and yarn sizes. Among the best bets we see are a cotton that looks like linen, a pin dot and a lightweight Bedford cord. This year you will also begin to see a number of sport-shirt and cardigan-sweater combinations being sold.

The sweater has been pigeonholed for far too long as strictly something to keep you warm in cold weather. We have always believed that this versatile garment should be used as a fashion accessory in all seasons. This season, manufacturers have answered our call and will be turning out a number of excellent lightweight sweaters that can be worn in any weather and still be comfortable. The big news will be in textured fabrics, including bouclé, linen and synthetic blends, as well as subtle knitted cable effects. Alpaca has reached the classic stage by now. Particularly appropriate for golfing, it is good anywhere. In the less exotic materials, you will be able to take your choice of V necks, burly and nubby lightweight cottons, fisherman's knits, bantamweight wools and pastel-toned brushed-mohair blends. The newest sweater idea this spring is a velvety, lush-knit velour in cotton or synthetics, which we recommend highly for the club or beach.

In pullovers, we like the new scrambled links that give the sweater a handmade look. Cashmere, as always, will score well. But if your budget doesn't allow that luxury, you can settle for Orlon or lamb's wool. In many cases it takes a real pro to tell the difference. Take a look at some of the cardigans with sueded trim and bold stitching that give a flavor of elegance not often seen in men's woolen goods. If you can carry off the Continental flair of Italian-style knits, you will have a good selection this spring. The layered winter sweater that looks like a turtleneck under a pullover, but is actually one garment, has been adapted in lightweight yarns and will be reappearing as casual summerwear.

Raincoats and Outerwear: History forgets the name of the World War I British officer who first fastened hand grenades to his raincoat and then wore the outfit into the trenches. But Humphrey Bogart certainly made the style stick, and now Sean Connery carries it on. Undoubtedly spurred by the adventurous doings of 007, we feel the trench coat coming back again stronger than ever under the cover of a rash of subtle variations. Some strive for the authentic look of the bulky British version with full shoulders and chest and plenty of flair below the belt line. These coats have all the bits and pieces of the traditional trench--full belt, back yoke, gun patch, epaulets, D rings, storm tab, et al. There will also be a number of slimmed-down versions which have eliminated many of the frills and are cut to a narrower silhouette. A single-breasted version is in the offing which technically isn't a trench coat at all, but retains the martial air of the original. Black, tan or natural, off-white and olive will be the big colors for the coat, and a few medium shades in muted patterns will be around to give you a wider choice.

You should also find some very good short raincoats, cut well above the knees. This style looks as if it has the makings of a real trend, so if you are in the market for new rainwear, check to be sure you are not buying a coat that might shortly become outdated.

A new trend in outerwear will be splashy linings that offer everything in the way of artwork from interesting abstract designs to full-scale paintings.

For the really informal occasion, be it a golfing date or a beach picnic, there will be a wide assortment of "pull-ons" available. One we like is a lightweight parka that comes in vinyl-coated fabrics and can double as foul-weather gear or as after-swimming wear for the sunniest of days. This style will be out in nylon taffeta, duck, chambray and madras, as well as a nylon that's printed to look like madras. It comes fitted with zippers and snap fasteners.

New, high-style cardigans that can be classed as jackets because of their laminated sleeves and backs with suede fronts, will be out this spring, along with corduroys and cotton suede leisure jackets in every style from button-front blouses to bush coats.

Swimwear: In swimsuits you will be seeing some colorful adaptations of old school and club tie techniques. Professional competition stripes, which originated at the surfing clubs of Waikiki Beach, have been adapted and make for a striking appearance anywhere. This big swim short is a copy of the real (concluded on page 171) Fashion Forecast (continued from page 110) surfing trunk, complete to a wax pocket and lacing in the waistband. Another version picks up the competition stripe running across the front and repeats it in either a matching surfing parka or shirt. This solid surfing trunk will be seen in duck, gabardine, stretch woolen, double-knit stretch nylon and Lastex. Zip-front parkas and pullovers made to match surfing and tailored trunks will be replacing the old cabana sets. And about time, too.

Belts: The belt market has been hatching some of the freshest new ideas we have seen in a long time of fashion waist watching. The harness buckle remains the all-time favorite, but you're going to see more in the way of double-ring cinch buckles this spring. Leather is still the top material, but there will be an increase in reversibles. Textured belts will also be making an appearance with the use of water buffalo and the matte-finish oiled hides. We give very high marks to a number of striped ribbon belts.

Hats: The famous old Franklin Roosevelt "Campobello" shape-it-yourself hat looks to be in for a revival this season. There will also be a host of new fabrics in porkpies and side-dent styles--denims, patch madras, seersuckers, plus silky slubbed cloths. Combination straw and fabric brims will be very much on the scene and the planter's hat will again be big for the beach. Classic golf hats in coconut will be with us, as always.

The German student's beer-hall cap that has been around since the old Student Prince days has been updated and will show up again this year.

Shoes and Socks: Sport shoes this year will be of soft, suedelike leather, as well as the familiar canvas styles, to add color to summertime comfort. In the smooth leathers it looks as if there will be a new emphasis on white, pale tan and walnut brown to go along with the standard jet black. The shaped suit demands a fuller shoe than we have been accustomed to in recent years. But, fortunately, the heavier-looking models coming out meet this requirement without actually increasing in weight. We also notice a strong return to the classic English styles for dressy shoes that blend well with any ensemble.

The tremendous success of over-the-calf stretch socks has resulted in a happy widening of the style range. New blends, various rib effects and neat fancies will be seen, but the colors will remain on the darker, more conservative side.

We see new shades of sweater-coordinated socks being big this spring. Mostly they will be crew socks in shaggy and brushed textures, with yellow and blue as the favorite colors. Be sure to look at cushioned-sole crew socks for your active sportswear. They are particularly good for tennis and other running sports.

Ties and Ascots: Rep stripes and twill will again be the leaders this season, but in brighter colors and grounds. Check the rich blues, browns and greens that will be around to set off the new natural shades in jackets and suits. And don't fall into the common mistake of assuming that because your shirt is striped you can only wear a solid-color tie. There are a variety of patterns, such as rep, paisley, challis and shaded iridescent panels, that can go very well with striped shirts.

Ascots continue to climb up the popularity ladder and this spring these handsome casualwear accessories will be seen in pure silks, cottons and blends, and varying from solid colors to paisleys, polka dots, batiks and abstracts.

Formalwear: For our money, one of the best new summer dinner jackets on the market this season is a "country formal" we suggested to manufacturers a while back. A smartly patterned seersucker, which looks like classic glen and Urquhart plaids in black and white, this outfit strikes us as the answer to the need for dress clothes that are correct for the most formal occasion and yet swing with today's casual stylings.

There is a freedom in breaking with the traditional white or black formal dress in spring and summer that allows you to express yourself as you like, whether it be in gray-with-black-trim jackets, colorful paisleys or even a pastel shade in denim. If you have an active social life planned for this summer, add a couple of these extra jackets that can be worn as separates.

From head to toe, these are our predictions of the shape and style of things to come in the season of the summer solstice. Light and bright, the fashions of the upcoming months should prove to be a delight to the discerning eye, whether it be your own or that of your lady fair.