Oysters "R" in Season
October, 1965
In a World where the supply of quality caviar is slowly dwindling; where truffles are becoming more and more scarce; where the diminishing lobster is fetching a king's ransom, we are indeed happy to report that the oyster, one of nature's most succulent bounties, is on the increase. Only two years ago oyster prophets of gloom were mourning the loss of the disappearing mollusks as the annual crop grew smaller and smaller. Oyster famines aren't new. Although man is the biggest of all the oyster's predators, until recently he has been by no means the smartest nor the most persevering. Historically it has been the subforms of sea life, particularly the starfish, the drill and the sponge, that managed to get to their oysters before man. Even birds, such as the oyster catcher, have always been able to fly circles around oystermen. Eschewing complicated gear, they merely waited for the low tide to expose the oyster beds and then swooped down for their fresh oyster cocktail. In Africa, hungry chimpanzees completely ignore the caveat of the R-less months and have been known to make pilgrimages hundreds of miles for a fresh shore dinner. Thanks to new oyster-farming techniques in this country, man is able to protect oysters from those low lifes and keep the tasty little fellows for himself. The catch last year was hiked to something like a whopping 2,000,000 pounds. This year oyster prospects are even brighter.
The mounting oyster crop is bound to please the world of aphrodisia. That oysters have the power to generate and regenerate male sexual desire is an article of absolute faith so venerable and so widespread that if doctors at the Mayo Clinic officially declared the oyster to be an efficacious aphrodisiac, the announcement would not cause much more than a ho-hum. The prodigal powers of oysters have been commonly accepted since Caesar's legions sampled their first British bivalves. Before he burned out, the most licentious gormandizer of all times, Roman Emperor Vitellius, was said to have eaten 1000 oysters at one sitting or, to be exact, at one reclining. It just wasn't a real orgy without a few platters of oysters. No less a scholar than Voltaire went on record testifying that spiced oysters were celebrated for their contributions to fecundity. Later, Byron sang of the beautiful bivalve as the amatory food of Don Juan. There were always skeptics who would have their evidence from the lab rather than the boudoir. Such cynics could be referred to physicians who for generations had prescribed phosphorus compounds from their professional list of materia aphrodisia. Oysters, as everyone knew, were notable for their phosphorus content. Too much of it, taken straight, could conceivably kill a man, but oysters could only make one more alive. For centuries medical writers had described the positive effects of drinking sea water because of its phosphorous content. A grown-up oyster guzzles up no less than 160 quarts of sea water a day. Eating oysters was, by far, the most pleasant way of getting one's regular dose. For centuries many pious Frenchmen chronically found themselves in a real oyster stew: Oysters couldn't be excluded from the fish and seafood recommended in place of meat during days of penance. And yet, from all available evidence at the time, oysters, somehow or other, seemed to inflame the very passions the meatless diet was supposed to suppress. When you serve oysters today, you appeal to what Brillat-Savarin called the sens génésique, a sixth sense that draws the sexes together and depends on all the other senses for its power, but particularly on mature taste buds. For the glory of the oyster lies in the subtle delicacy of its flavor which, alas, often is lost on the neophyte but is a delight to the experienced trencherman.
There are two cults among men who've reached their oysterhood: the raw school, which looks on cooking an oyster as a foul desecration of natural flavor, like baking a watermelon; and the partisans of cooked oysters, who find taking them raw a bit barbaric for their tastes. The true aficionado eats them any way he can, from raw oysters scooped from the submerged barks of mangrove trees in Southern waters to baked oysters casino served on polished silver platters. The scales were once heavily weighted in favor of the raw school, since the simple oyster on the half shell, with its suave, salty deep-sea tang, its protean texture both tender and chewable, was the most persuasive kind of evidence one could possibly offer. Old-line oystermen want their half shells so fresh that when a few drops of lemon juice or freshly ground pepper are sprayed on the oysters, you can see a visible reflex action. They look upon cocktail sauce with a wary eye: It's all right if it's used as a modest dip on the corner of a raw oyster, but when you drown a raw oyster headfirst in a maelstrom of catsup, chili sauce, horseradish and Tabasco, you're no longer dining on oysters, but gluttonizing on cocktail sauce and using the precious mollusk to do your swabbing.
If you are going to cook your oyster, the first thing to remember is that its delicate flavor must be caressed, not bullied. When oysters go into a stew or a sauce, they must be escorted with spices that are titillating without being inflammatory. Never upstage the oyster's delicate salt-water savor. One of the delightful things about most smoked oysters is that the flavor of the smoke, which can be wanton and acrid in other foods, (continued on page 220)Oysters(continued from page 150) is thoughtfully subdued and artfully commingles with the call of the sea.
On the south shore of Long Island a number of otherwise respectable men have made a hobby of oyster piracy. There are certain spots in certain coves where they can always find oysters in either summer or winter. Often they eat them in a style that combines the cooked and the raw. In the summer, for instance, they place their bootlegged oysters in the shell on the barbecue fire before grilling their steaks. As soon as the shells pop open, they snatch the oysters from the fire. In the winter, the same ritual is performed before an indoor fireplace.
The number of oysters you need for a party depends upon their size and on the capacity of your guests. On the West Coast there are Olympia oysters not much bigger than a dime. In Australia they come a foot in diameter, one of which, dipped in flour, egg and bread crumbs and fried, fills an outsize dinner plate to the rim. On the U. S. East Coast large ones are called Cape Cods or Chincoteagues, even though they never came within miles of these Massachusetts or Virginia oyster grounds. Small oysters are called blue points, after a Long Island town which isn't their home either. During the summer, in many states an oyster ban is proclaimed because it's the spawning season. Since the oyster is so bighearted in contributing to man's amatory life, it seems only fair to give the oyster its fulfillment in return and, incidentally, keep the supply level high. Some oysters in the R-less months of May through August have a milky, somewhat insipid flavor. But others don't. There is no absolute rule. In many areas, particularly those bordering the warmer waters, the oyster feast goes on jubilantly all year long.
The sensual flavor of raw oysters calls for beer or stout. But cooked oysters seek the libidinous company of champagne or dry white wine, such as chablis.
Each of the following love philters serves four and can be administered at any hour from brunch to midnight supper.
[recipe_title]Oyster Omelet, Western Style[/recipe_title]
[recipe]18 freshly opened small oysters[/recipe]
[recipe]1 medium-size boiled potato, peeled[/recipe]
[recipe]1/2 cup catsup[/recipe]
[recipe]Bread crumbs[/recipe]
[recipe]12 slices bacon[/recipe]
[recipe]8 eggs, beaten[/recipe]
[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]
[recipe]Tabasco sauce[/recipe]
[recipe]4 tablespoons butter[/recipe]
[recipe]4 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced[/recipe]
The omelet may be made in two large pans, simultaneously, each containing two portions; or half the recipe may be repeated in the same pan. Drain oysters well, wipe dry with paper toweling, and cut each one crosswise into three pieces. Cut potato into very small dice. Combine oysters and catsup in mixing bowl, tossing thoroughly. Coat oysters in another bowl with bread crumbs. Chill thoroughly in refrigerator. Preheat broiler flame. Cut each slice of bacon crosswise into six pieces, place in heavy skillet and sauté slowly until crisp. Remove bacon from pan, letting fat remain. Fry oyster pieces in bacon fat until golden brown. Remove oysters from pan, discarding fat, and set aside. Season eggs with salt and pepper. Add several dashes Tabasco sauce. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in omelet pan or large skillet. Add half the eggs, oysters, bacon, scallions and potato. Cook as an omelet, lifting eggs to permit liquid portion to (low to pan bottom. Place pan under broiler flame to cook liquid remaining on top. Fold omelet in half and slide onto platter. Repeat steps with balance of ingredients to make second omelet.
[recipe_title]Oysters Tetrazzini[/recipe_title]
[recipe]32 freshly opened small oysters[/recipe]
[recipe]Clam broth[/recipe]
[recipe]1 cup milk[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]
[recipe]1 small onion, finely minced[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 teaspoon dried chervil[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 cup flour[/recipe]
[recipe]2 tablespoons dry white wine[/recipe]
[recipe]Salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 lb. thin spaghetti[/recipe]
[recipe]1/2 cup shredded gruyère cheese[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]
Drain oysters, reserving liquor. Measure liquor; add enough clam broth to make 1 cup liquid. Combine with milk in saucepan and heat up to boiling point. Set aside. In another saucepan melt butter; add onion, tarragon and chervil. Sauté only until onion turns light yellow. Stir in flour, mixing well. Slowly add hot milk mixture, stirring with wire whip until smooth. Simmer over low flame, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes; avoid scorching. Remove from flame and stir in oysters and wine. Add salt and pepper to taste. Boil spaghetti until tender; drain and divide among four large shirred-egg dishes or individual casseroles. Move spaghetti to rim of dishes, forming a well in center of each. Spoon oyster mixture into center of each dish. Sprinkle with both kinds of cheese and paprika. Bake in oven preheated to 375° 15 to 20 minutes, or until top is lightly browned.
[recipe_title]Oyster Pancakes, Horseradish Dip[/recipe_title]
[recipe]1 doz. freshly opened large oysters[/recipe]
[recipe]Beer or ale[/recipe]
[recipe]1 small onion, finely minced[/recipe]
[recipe]3/4 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]
[recipe]2 eggs, well beaten[/recipe]
[recipe]3 tablespoons melted butter[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 cup milk[/recipe]
[recipe]3/4 cup sifted flour[/recipe]
[recipe]1 teaspoon baking powder[/recipe]
[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]
[recipe]1 cup sour cream[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 cup light sweet cream[/recipe]
[recipe]2 tablespoons horseradish[/recipe]
[recipe]2 teaspoons finely minced chives Salad oil[/recipe]
Cook oysters in their own liquor just until the edges begin to curl. Remove from fire. Reserve liquor. Chop oysters coarsely with French knife. Add enough beer or ale to oyster liquor to make 1 cup liquid. In bowl of mixing machine, combine oysters, onion, beer mixture, bread crumbs, eggs, butter, milk, flour, baking powder and salt. Beat at medium speed until smooth. Let mixture stand 10 minutes. Combine sour cream, mayonnaise, sweet cream, horseradish and chives, stirring with wire whip until smooth. Store in refrigerator until serving time. Preheat electric griddle or electric skillet set at 390°. Brush lightly with oil. Drop batter about 1/4 cup at a time onto griddle. When cakes are light brown on bottom and top edges are dull, turn and brown other side. Serve with horseradish dip.
[recipe_title]Baked Oysters with Mushrooms[/recipe_title]
[recipe]24 large oysters on half shell, deep side Clam broth[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 cup light cream[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 lb. fresh mushrooms[/recipe]
[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]
[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]
[recipe]2 tablespoons brandy[/recipe]
[recipe]1 teaspoon Pernod[/recipe]
[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]
[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]
[recipe]3/4 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]
[recipe]1 tablespoon finely minced chives[/recipe]
Preheat oven to 400°. Remove oysters from shells, reserving liquor. Measure liquor; add enough clam broth to make 1 cup liquid. Combine with cream in saucepan and heat up to boiling point, but do not boil. Set aside. Slice mushrooms, caps and stems, very thin and sauté in 3 tablespoons butter until just tender. Stir in flour, mixing well. Slowly add clam-broth mixture, stirring constantly with wire whip. Bring sauce to a boil. Reduce flame and simmer very slowly, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Add brandy and Pernod. Add salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate to taste. Remove from flame and divide half the mixture among the 24 shells. Place an oyster in each shell. Spoon balance of mushroom mixture on top of oysters. Melt 1/4 cup butter in saucepan. Remove from flame and stir in bread crumbs and chives, mixing well. Place bread-crumb mixture on top of oysters, smoothing tops with spoon or spatula. Place oysters on a half-inch bed of rock salt in shallow pan or casserole. (The rock salt isn't absolutely necessary, but it keeps the oysters in an upright position so that as little juice as possible is lost.) Bake 15 to 20 minutes.
[recipe_title]Paprika Oysters[/recipe_title]
[recipe]24 freshly opened large oysters[/recipe]
[recipe]2 10-oz. cans frozen oyster stew[/recipe]
[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]
[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]
[recipe]1 small onion, finely minced[/recipe]
[recipe]2 teaspoons paprika[/recipe]
[recipe]4 tablespoons very dry sherry[/recipe]
[recipe]2 egg yolks[/recipe]
[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]
[recipe]4 slices toast[/recipe]
Place thawed oyster stew and flour in electric blender and spin until thoroughly mixed and smooth. Melt butter in saucepan. Add onion and sauté until onion is yellow. Stir in paprika, mixing well. Add oyster stew and simmer slowly, stirring frequently, until sauce is thick and all floury taste has disappeared--about 10 minutes. Mix sherry with egg yolks. Add about 1/4 cup hot sauce from saucepan. Stir thoroughly. Slowly add egg-yolk mixture to pan, stirring constantly, until sauce comes up to boiling point. Do not boil. Add oysters and their liquor. Heat, without boiling, only until edges of oysters are curled. Add salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate to taste. Spoon oysters and sauce over hot toast.
[recipe_title]Oysters Casino[/recipe_title]
[recipe]24 large oysters on half shell, deep side[/recipe]
[recipe]1/2 cup butter[/recipe]
[recipe]1 small green pepper, finely minced[/recipe]
[recipe]4-oz. can pimientos, finely minced[/recipe]
[recipe]2 tablespoons finely minced shallots or scallions[/recipe]
[recipe]1 tablespoon finely minced parsley[/recipe]
[recipe]Juice of 1/2 lemon[/recipe]
[recipe]Tabasco sauce[/recipe]
[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]
[recipe]8 slices bacon[/recipe]
[recipe]Bread crumbs[/recipe]
Preheat oven to 400°. Let butter stand at room temperature until soft enough to spread easily. Combine butter with green pepper, pimientos, shallots, parsley and lemon juice. Add a few dashes Tabasco sauce and a generous sprinkling each of salt and pepper. Mix well. Sauté or broil bacon only until it is half done; drain, and cut each slice crosswise into three pieces. Place oysters in a shallow pan or casserole on a half-inch bed of rock salt. Spread pimiento mixture on oysters; sprinkle generously with bread crumbs, and place a piece of bacon on top of each oyster. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until bacon is crisp.
"The world is mine oyster," said Shakespeare. And a big, wide, wonderful one it is, too.
Like what you see? Upgrade your access to finish reading.
- Access all member-only articles from the Playboy archive
- Join member-only Playmate meetups and events
- Priority status across Playboy’s digital ecosystem
- $25 credit to spend in the Playboy Club
- Unlock BTS content from Playboy photoshoots
- 15% discount on Playboy merch and apparel