Urban Luau

Ever since Captain Cook sailed past Diamond Head into Hawaii and found himself wined and dined luau style, this most festive of Polynesian parties has been internationally hailed as king of the cookouts. No one knows who tossed the world's first luau, but it's possible that some early insular Elsa Maxwell accidentally dropped a freshly killed porker into a fire and, finding it done to a turn, invited the neighboring wahines and kanakas over to sample it. The tradition has happily continued and now all shoreside luaus serve roast pig steamed for hours in an underground oven as a sacrifice to the goddess Pele. But there's no need to hop a jet all the way to Oahu to enjoy the doings. In the time it would take you to pick up your tickets, you can be serving up a full South Sea feast fit for Pele herself right in your own air-conditioned digs.

Staging an indoor luau is as easy as poi. Even being sky high in an apartment can have some built-in blessings: Guests don't have to scour about for volcanic rocks, ti leaves and palm fronds, and you don't have to dig a pit to roast the traditional whole suckling pig. Instead, just ask a butcher to wrap up the juiciest pork-loin flanks, which you can start sizzling on an indoor rotisserie. If nought but the entire pig-on-a-platter will suffice, you can order one from a professional catering service.

We prefer to create a lush tropical atmosphere on the buffet table rather than on the walls. A single giant model of a tiki god surrounded by a bounty of island offerings serves far more admirably as a mood setter than a plethora of interior decorator-inspired fish-net coverings and cornball colored-glass globes.

Concentrate on laying out an elegant bar and buffet, which is, after all, where the action is. Begin by visiting your friendly florist. He won't be able to duplicate all 4000 varieties of hibiscus growing on Oahu, but he can supply you with quantities of properly lush greenery. Tell him the size of your luau table and ask for enough flat ferns to cover it. Order one or two centerpieces of short-stemmed flowers. The long-stemmed beauties are usually quite acceptable as buffet decorations, but avoid them at a sit-down feast, where they invariably create a junglelike atmosphere that inhibits cross-table conversation. Scatter fruit among the flowers and fronds. Pineapples cut lengthwise with the meat removed, sliced and returned to the shells, stalks of yellow and red bananas, grapes, citrus fruits, mangoes, papayas, coconut chips and avocado chunks make for delicious tropical tidbits that also serve as decorations.

In planning your luau, you'll find that the Americanization of authentic Polynesian dishes often makes them even more suitable to Stateside palates. Salmon is a good example. When it was first taken to the islands by Yankee traders, the fish had been preserved in a saline solution and was ultra-salty. Natives steeped the fish in clear water to remove excess salt, but some still remained, which turned it into an irresistible appetizer. Pummeled by hand to a purée and covered with scallions and tomatoes, it was called lomi salmon or simply lomi-lomi (the word "lomi-lomi" meaning "to massage"). On the islands it's still made this way. But we see no reason why (continued on page 155)Urban Luau(continued from page 89) you should waste time massaging fish when an electric meat grinder will do a better job.

While the guests are eagerly experimenting with South Sea appetizers, you should be loading your indoor rotisserie with succulent strips of pork loin ready for the roasting. Braziers and hibachis should be ready with mouth-watering repasts such as sesame beef.

At a luau, the side shows often rival the main event, so be sure to set the stage with plenty of condiments. Countless chutneys—some mild, others pepper hot—are available in any proper grocery. You might include chopped hard-boiled eggs and chives, tomatoes with basil, cucumbers in yogurt and dill, sliced bananas sprinkled with lime juice and brown sugar, and green salad with avocado and papaya chunks. All such tasty fare should make the scene served icy cokl in small relish containers. The traditional Polynesian delicacy, poi, is a fermented preparation of taro root, and is available in canned or frozen form at most gourmet food counters. Serve it seasoned with rock salt in individual bowls at room temperature or slightly chilled along with the pig. Definitely include heaping mounds of mils. The Hawaiian macadamia is king, but almonds, walnuts, or Brazils can also be used as a chopped garnish for sauce dishes, rice or, for that matter, any food you fancy. Fresh coconuts are essential to any luau. Tiny chunks of browned meat or toasted slices taste great with coconut-cream or curry dishes.

The potable to proffer at your luau is rum. A stock of light, dark and 151-proof Demerara (along with your regular firewater for those who'd rather fight than switch) will keep you or your barman busy shaking up exotic concoctions such as bacardis, daiquiris, mai tais, navy grogs, fog cutters, zombies and scorpions. Have a large supply of tall torn collins glasses on hand. For an after-dinner tipple, try a sweet Polynesian change of pace, such as a pineapple crème de menthe frappé. Fill saucer champagne glasses three fourths full with finely crushed ice and pour in a shot of undiluted frozen pineapple juice. Turn it in the glass, then add an ounce of green crème de menthe.

The key to a luau feast is neither pig nor poi, but hoomanawanui, which means "take it easy." Let the party choose its own speed. A luau isn't an organized affair that requires careful supervision by the host. If you've done your preplanning well, the night can virtually run itself. As you and your guests dream and dance after dinner, you'll find that a luau never really seems to end; it drifts off into the moonlight.

The following are all island-tested recipes that should make your indoor luau indeed festive.

[recipe_title]Sesame Beef[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 lbs. boneless sirloin steak 1-in. thick[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons sesame seeds[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons sesame oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large cloves garlic, finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]3 scallions, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sake or dry vermouth[/recipe]

Preheat oven at 375°. Place sesame seeds in shallow baking pan and bake until deep brown, 25-30 minutes. Stir occasionally to brown evenly. Remove sesame seeds from oven and place in blender. Blend until seeds are finely chopped. Cut steak into pieces 1 in. square and 1/4 in. thick. In mixing bowl, combine steak, sesame seeds, sesame oil, pepper, soy sauce, salad oil, monosodium glutamate, garlic, scallions and sake. Marinate 3 to 4 hours. Preheat broiler flame or use hibachi if you can accommodate one in fireplace. Fasten meat on skewers. Broil until brown on both sides.

[recipe_title]Kim Chee[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]1 large cucumber[/recipe]

[recipe]l/2 large head Chinese cabbage[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt[/recipe]

[recipe]4 scallions[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large cloves garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]2 small hot peppers in vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger[/recipe]

Cut impeded cucumber crosswise into very thin slices. Cut Chinese cabbage crosswise into 1/4-in. slices. In a mixing bowl, combine cucumber, Chinese cabbage and 2 tablespoons salt, mixing well. Let stand 1/2 hour. Cut scallions, including green part, crosswise into 1-in. pieces. Cut lengthwise into thinnest possible strips. Mince the garlic and hot peppers extremely fine. Wash cucumber and Chinese cabbage in cold water. Drain well and place in bowl or jar fitted with tight cover. Add scallions, garlic, hot peppers, 1 tablespoon salt and ginger. Add water to barely cover all ingredients when pressed down firmly. Let stand covered in refrigerator 1 week. Serve ice cold as a salad accompaniment.

[recipe_title]Lomi-Lomi[/recipe_title]

(Makes one pint)

[recipe]1 lb. fresh salmon[/recipe]

[recipe]3 medium tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]2 scallions[/recipe]

[recipe]1 roasted sweet pepper or pimiento[/recipe]

[recipe]2 small hot peppers in vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon cider vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon anchovy paste[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

Have fish dealer fillet salmon, removing skin and bones. Examine salmon carefully to make sure all bones are removed. Steep tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds. Cut off stem end, remove peel and cut each tomato into quarters, then gently press out seeds. Mince tomatoes very fine. Cut scallions, including green part, into thinnest possible slices, Cut sweet pepper into very small dice. Mince hot peppers very fine. Put salmon through meat grinder, using fine blade. Combine salmon with tomatoes, scallions, sweet pepper, hot peppers, cider vinegar, sugar, anchovy paste and monosodium glutamate. And 1/2, teaspoon vinegar from bottle containing hot peppers. Mix very well. Chill in refrigerator several hours before serving. Serve with thinly sliced rye bread or sesame crackers.

[recipe_title]Coconut Cream[/recipe_title]

(Makes one pint)

[recipe]1 large fresh coconut[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons arrowroot or cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, white pepper[/recipe]

Pierce 2 eyes in coconut, using ice pick, or hammer with large nail or screwdriver. Discard liquid from coconut. Roast coconut in preheated oven at 400° for 20 minutes or until shell cracks. Tap shell with hammer to remove meat and cut coconut meat into large pieces. With sharp paring knife, cut off dark outer skin. Cut coconut into l/2-in. dice. Place a handful at a time in blender, and blend until finely chopped. Heat milk and cream in saucepan; bring up to boiling point. Remove from flame and add coconut. Let stand 1/2 hour. Strain coconut cream, a small amount at a time, through a double thickness of cheesecloth, wringing cloth lightly. Discard coconut meat (its flavor will have been extracted). Heat coconut cream in saucepan until it comes up to boil. Dissolve arrowroot in 1 tablespoon cold water, and add to saucepan. Mix well. Simmer a minute or two to thicken sauce. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Use coconut cream as a sauce with cooked foods such as lobster chunks, crab meat, shrimps, chicken, ham, etc.

[recipe_title]Chicken and Spinach, Coconut Cream[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]4 whole breasts of chicken[/recipe]

[recipe]Coconut cream (recipe above)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 packages frozen leaf spinach[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sesame oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]3-1/4-oz. cans Coco Bits[/recipe]

Simmer chicken in salted water until tender—about 30 minutes. Avoid overcooking. Remove skin and bones from chicken and cut into large dice. Combine chicken with coconut cream. Simmer slowly over low flame 3 to 5 minutes. Cook spinach. Drain well and set aside. Cut onion in half through stem end, then crosswise into thinnest possible Strips. Sauté onion in salad oil until yellow, not browned. Add sesame oil and spinach and stir well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Place spinach in casserole. Pour chicken in coconut cream over spinach and place in moderate oven until heated through. Sprinkle with Coco Bits.

[recipe_title]Fried Shrimp and Canadian Bacon[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 lb. extra-large shrimp, 8 to the lb.[/recipe]

[recipe]8 slices Canadian bacon (smoked pork loin)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 medium onion, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup all-purpose flour[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

Remove shell from shrimp, carefully permitting tail and end of shell to remain up to last ridge of shrimp. Cut down middle of shrimp back, dividing but not separating shrimp into halves. Press shrimp gently so that it is flat. A few very small slashes with knife may be necessary to flatten it. The tail end, however, should remain intact. Trim all fat off Canadian bacon, and sauté in oil briefly on each side. Place a slice of Canadian bacon on cut side of shrimp. Press flat. The stickiness of the shrimp flesh will cause the bacon to adhere. If part of the Canadian bacon can be forced under shrimp shell, it will be more secure. Chill in refrigerator at least 1 hour. Put eggs, salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate, soy sauce, onion, cornstarch and flour into blender and blend until smooth. Pour batter into bowl. Heat oil to a depth of 1 in. in electric skillet preheated at 350°. Hold shrimp and Canadian bacon together at tail end and dip into batter. Let excess baiter drip off only for a few seconds. Lower carefully into skillet and brown well on both sides. Serve with vinegar soy sauce (recipe below) as a dip.

[recipe_title]Vinegar Soy Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves four to six)

[recipe]1/2 cup garlic-flavored red-wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons chopped toasted pine nuts[/recipe]

Combine vinegar, soy sauce and sugar and stir until sugar dissolves. Divide among small dishes, one at each place at table or one between each two places Sprinkle nuts on top. Serve with any batter-fried Polynesian food.

[recipe_title]Saimin[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]3 lbs. fresh spareribs 2 pieces celery[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large onions, peeled[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. very thin vermicelli[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons soy saute[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. sliced boiled ham[/recipe]

[recipe]8 scallions, thinly sliced[/recipe]

Have butcher cut spareribs in half lengthwise and then into serving-size pieces for barbecuing. Place in large pot with celery and onions. Add water to cover meat and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil; skim; reduce flame and simmer slowly until spareribs are tender—about 1 hour. Strain broth, discarding celery and onions. Reserve spareribs for barbecued spareribs (recipe below). Be sure vermicelli is extremely thin, not just thin spaghetti. Boil in salted water until tender. Drain. Season broth with soy sauce and salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate to taste. One or two packets instant chicken bouillon may be used, if necessary, to give broth additional body. Cut ham into very thin julienne strips. Divide vermicelli, ham and scallions among four soup plates. Bring broth to a boil and pour into soup plates.

[recipe_title]Luau Spareribs[/recipe_title]

(Serves join)

[recipe]Cooked spareribs (recipe above)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon Chinese oyster sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup catsup[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large cloves garlic, finely minced Combine brown sugar, lemon juice,[/recipe]

soy sauce, oyster sauce, catsup and garlic, mixing well. Marinate spareribs in the mixture 2 to 3 hours, turning occasionally to marinate evenly. Place spareribs in shallow pan. Broil under preheated flame until brown on both sides. Brush with marinade daring broiling.

[recipe_title]Roast Loin of Pork, Apricot Glaze[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]3 lbs. boneless center-cut loin of pork[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sake or dry vermouth[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup apricot jam[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons dry mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons prepared mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium onion, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Put oil, sake, vinegar, apricot jam, soy sauce, dry mustard, prepared mustard and onion into blender and blend until smooth. Set aside a third of the sauce for basting. Use balance for relish at table. Preheat electric rotisserie at medium heat. Sprinkle meat with salt and pepper. Fix meat on spit and roast for 1-1/2 hours. While meat is roasting, brush occasionally with basting sauce. Let meat stand at least 10 minutes before carving.

[recipe_title]Coconut Mousse[/recipe_title]

[recipe](Serves six to eight)[/recipe]

[recipe]9-1/2-oz. can prepared Cream of Coconut[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon (envelope) unflavored gelatin[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon vanilla extract[/recipe]

[recipe]18-oz. can guava shells in syrup[/recipe]

Put Cream of Coconut and milk into blender and blend until smooth. Soften gelatin in cold water and place in top part of double boiler over simmering water until gelatin dissolves. Add to coconut mixture in bowl and chill in refrigerator only until edge of mixture begins to thicken and is syrupy in center. Mixture will jell rather quickly; do not permit it to set. Beat egg whites until still, add 2 tablespoons sugar and fold into gelatin mixture. Beat cream until still, add 2 tablespoons sugar and vanilla extract and fold into gelatin mixture. Return mixture to refrigerator and chill until stiff. Chill guava shells in refrigerator. Spoon coconut mousse onto serving plates and top with guava shells.

[recipe_title]Black Cherry Rum Punch[/recipe_title]

(Makes 21 six-oz. punch cups)

[recipe]1 fifth light rum[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. 151-proof rum[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. dark Jamaica rum[/recipe]

[recipe]2 17-oz. cans pitted black cherries in heavy syrup[/recipe]

[recipe]8 ozs. fresh lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. fresh orange juice[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. fresh lime juice[/recipe]

[recipe]8 ozs. cherry heering[/recipe]

[recipe]8 ozs. crème de cassis[/recipe]

[recipe]2 limes, sliced thin[/recipe]

[recipe]1 quart club soda[/recipe]

Put all ingredients except soda in punch bowl. Add 2-quart block of ice. Stir well. Refrigerate 1 hour. Add soda. Stir well.

[recipe_title]Tall Islander[/recipe_title]

(Serves one)

[recipe]3 ozs. pineapple juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. fresh lime juice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. light rum[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon dark Jamaica rum[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon macadamia-nut syrup[/recipe]

[recipe]1 slice lime[/recipe]

Put all liquids in cocktail shaker with lots of ice. Shake very well. Strain into 12-oz. tom collins glass containing 2 or 3 ice cubes. Add lime slice.

Bountiful Polynesian offerings are bound to make the natives unrestless tonight and are equally at home in a high-rise or down among the sheltering palms.