The Alfresco Brunch

On a Weekday Morning, the urban bachelor often has barely enough time to gulp down a cup of coffee before going out to face the world. But on a summer weekend, the gourmet worth his seasoned salt is in the mood to socialize in the sun and may get his partying started early by judiciously combining potation and collation.

There are countless occasions for outdoor brunches: after-tennis fetes fashionably served at courtside, on-deck affairs just prior to weighing anchor for a day on the briny, or the classic late-morning board offered up on your patio or terrace. Whatever the even a properly gala brunch gets the day's festivities off to an elegantly flying start. Begin with a round or two of pick-me-ups: Bullshots, screwdrivers, tiger's milk, Ramos gin fizzes, bloody and ruddy marys rightfully replace such five-o'clock favorites as martinis and manhattans. While your guests are hoisting the libations, you can be adding finishing touches to the delectable edibles. A few whiffs of country ham frying in its own juices and a generous batch of warming brioches or croissants should have hunger coming up like thunder.

If you're hosting a poolside brunch, remember that swimmers and sun bathers are notorious for working up king-sized appetites. When entertaining natators, start them off with hearty but easily prepared taste-tempters such as thin slices of smoked salmon or Westphalian ham heavily peppered and rolled into cornucopias on buttered pumpernickel. Another great conqueror of early afternoon hunger is a mixed grill. This culinary delight stems from the old English hunt breakfast, where the chase often led not only to the fox but to lamb chops, country sausages and lamb kidneys. A mixed grill is simply a platter of assorted foods such as lamb chops, bacon, sausage and tomatoes separately broiled and served together. But they become especially regal fare when joined by sweetbreads, ham slices and artichoke bottoms. At an alfresco brunch, such food cooked over a hibachi—or one of those fine portable charcoalers with a smoker top—seems to make appetites even more delightfully (continued on page 148) Brunch (continued from page 117) unmanageable than at a sundown steak-out. Small grills are also perfect for garnishes such as bananas, spiced peaches, mushrooms and sweet green peppers. When your mixed grill is done to a turn and assembled on the platter, it deserves a butter-based sauce. Maître d'hôtel sauce calls for 1/2 cup butter, softened to room temperature, mixed with the juice of 1/2 lemon and 1 tablespoon minced parsley. A favorite of ours, beurre noir, is prepared by heating 1/2 cup butter, mixed with 2 tablespoons small capers and 2 tablespoons vinegar, in a pan until it turns nut brown.

If you have friends taking off for an overseas vacation, send them smiling with a bon voyage brunch given on the morning of departure. The occasion calls for the best in bubbly and fresh caviar served with ham, a creamy chicken hash, or any one of the hundreds of varieties of omelets that can be the signature of a successful repast.

Brunch has been almost a way of life in England since the turn of the century. Whatever put-downs you may have heard about traditional English culinary arts, the British do have a proper way with kippers and finnan haddie. Over here, our own domestic fish can be used for making creamed or steamed finnan haddie, but the imported Yarmouth bloaters and Scotch kippers are still first lords in the smoked-fish kingdom. Try English Van Smirren rainbow trout grilled in butter and lemon for a light seafood serving. Italian food such as sweet sausage, polenta and prosciutto are tailor-made for an American brunch. Panettone, originally an Easter cake, is now an all-year dolce. Buy panettone fresh from an Italian bakery, or try the Motta brand that can be heated through in the oven in a few minutes. Sliced, toasted and buttered, and served with a generous helping of black-cherry jam, panettone is a splendid meal's-end sweet.

Many dedicated brunchermen look to the Scandinavian smorgasbord for inspiration: Rare roast beef, ox tongue, ham, rolled pork, sautéed kidneys and steamed herring with boiled potatoes make ideal fare. One of the best things about a smorgasbord is that it can take care of itself. You serve up the food on platters and then join your guests in line waiting to serve themselves.

The following brunch recipes are sure to satisfy the heartiest of early afternoon appetites.

[recipe_title]Chicken Hash Browned with Pineapple[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]1-1/2 lbs. sliced chicken or turkey roll[/recipe]

[recipe]6 medium-to-large-size potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]3 5-oz. cans water chestnuts, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, onion powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]8 pineapple spears[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]Cinnamon[/recipe]

[recipe]Sugar[/recipe]

Peel and boil potatoes in salted water, and cut into small dice. Cut chicken and water chestnuts into 1/4-in. squares. In mixing bowl combine chicken, potatoes, water chestnuts and 1/2 cup butter. Mix very well, mashing potatoes slightly while mixing. Add salt and pepper to taste and season generously with onion powder. Preheat broiler flame. In a large skillet of cast iron or other thick metal, heat 1/4 cup salad oil over a moderate flame. Add chicken hash. If necessary, use two skillets or brown the hash in two batches. When hash is light brown on bottom, mix well and move to one side of pan to make hash oval-shaped. Continue to sauté until well browned on bottom; lower flame if it browns too fast. Place pineapple in shallow metal pan or pie plate. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons butter, cinnamon and sugar. Place under broiler flame until just heated through; it isn't necessary to turn it. Turn hash onto large platter, browned side up. Reshape, if necessary, into an oval. Place pineapple on top.

[recipe_title]Patty Of Ham, Egg Mollet[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]8 baked patty shells[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 lbs. sliced boiled ham[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups hot milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons minced fresh chives[/recipe]

[recipe]2 raw egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]1 hard-boiled egg yolk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, cayenne[/recipe]

[recipe]8 eggs at room temperature[/recipe]

All steps in this luscious patty combination should be done before guests arrive. Warm the ham and the eggs slightly before serving. As a laborsaver, prepared hollandaise sauce may be used. The real passionnés of hollandaise will prefer the fresh version in the recipe. Any French bakery will supply patty shells; they're also available in frozen form ready for baking.

Cut ham into 1/2-in. squares. Melt 1/4 cup butter in saucepan, remove from flame and stir in flour, blending well. Slowly add hot milk, stirring constantly. Return to moderate flame and simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in ham, light cream and chives; add salt and pepper to taste and set aside. Pour 2 raw egg yolks into well of electric blender. Force hard yolk through a small wire sieve into blender. Melt 1/2 lb. butter over low flame until sputtering hot but not brown. While running blender at medium speed, slowly add butter through opening of blender top, about a tablespoon at a time. If the sauce does not blend completely, stop blender and stir center with rubber spatula, then resume blending. Continue until all butter is added. Remove hollandaise sauce from blender, stir in lemon juice and add salt and pepper to taste and a dash of cayenne. Store hollandaise in a warm place (not a double boiler) until serving time. Bring a deep saucepan of water to a rapid boil. Place 8 eggs in water, one at a time, keeping water at a boil. Cook 5 to 6 minutes—until medium boiled. Remove shells from eggs and place eggs in saucepan of warm water. Reheat just before serving. Remove lids from patty shells. Pour a small amount of ham into each patty shell. Place an egg mollet on top. Spoon hollandaise sauce over egg. Place remaining ham alongside each patty shell and top with patty-shell lid.

[recipe_title]Herring Fry Platter[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]3 fillets of schmaltz herring, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion[/recipe]

[recipe]3 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup all-purpose flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]4 large tomatoes[/recipe]

Wash herring in cold water and dry with paper toweling. Cut crosswise into 1/2-in. pieces. Peel onion and cut in half through stem end, then crosswise into 1/4-in. slices. Separate slices into strips. In well of electric blender put eggs, 3 tablespoons salad oil, pepper, salt, water, flour and cornstarch. Blend 10 seconds, scrape sides of blender, then blend 10 seconds more. Pour batter into mixing bowl. Heat 1/2 in. salad oil in electric skillet preheated at 370°. Dip herring into batter and fry until light brown. Use a large pair of tongs or two large spoons to handle herring. If there are too many stray pieces of batter in fat, strain it before frying onion. Dip onion into batter and fry a small amount at a time to keep strips from sticking together. Long frying of onions isn't desirable. They should be light brown when removed from pan. Place herring and onions in shallow pan. Reheat if necessary before serving by placing in a moderate oven 5 to 10 minutes. Cut out stem end of tomatoes and cut each tomato in half through stem end, then crosswise into 1/4-in. slices. Stack tomatoes down middle of serving platter. Place onions and herring on both sides of tomatoes. Serve as accompaniment to scrambled eggs.

[recipe_title]Brunch Crepes. Bar-Le-Duc[/recipe_title]

(12 crepes)

[recipe]5 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup all-purpose flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/4 lbs. cottage cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 3-2/3-oz. jars red bar-le-duc[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

Pour 1/4 cup salad oil into coffee cup or other small container and set aside for frying crepes. Put eggs, milk, water, 1/4 teaspoon salt and flour into well of electric blender. Blend 10 seconds at high speed, scrape sides of blender, then blend 10 seconds more. Pour batter into bowl. Heat a heavy skillet, 7 ins. across bottom, over moderate flame. Pour enough salad oil into skillet to cover bottom. Pour excess oil back into coffee cup, draining well. While holding pan off flame, pour in 3 tablespoons batter. Tilt pan to cover bottom completely. Adjust flame to prevent browning too fast. When each crepe is lightly browned, turn with spatula and lightly brown other side. Remove crepe from pan. Stack crepes on large dish. Continue cooking until all batter is used. Preheat broiler flame. Combine cottage cheese, sugar and l/8 teaspoon salt and mix well. Place 3 tablespoons cheese mixture in a long strip on each crepe, about 2 ins. from ends. Roll up. Cut 1/2 in. from each open end of crepe. Place crepes in shallow casserole in a single layer. Cover with whipped cream and place under broiler flame until tops are light brown. Watch crepes constantly, and turn when necessary to brown evenly. Spoon bar-le-duc over each crepe before serving.

[recipe_title]Grapefruit Nog[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]1 cup unsweetened grapefruit juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons honey[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. California brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup coarsely cracked ice[/recipe]

Pour grapefruit juice, lemon juice, honey, brandy and egg into well of electric blender. Blend 30 seconds. Add ice and blend 10 seconds longer. Pour into prechilled double old fashioned glasses, each containing 2 ice cubes.

[recipe_title]Ruddy Mary[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]1 cup tomato juice[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. aquavit[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 dashes Tabasco[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg yolk[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon catsup[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup coarsely cracked ice[/recipe]

Put all ingredients in well of electric blender. Blend 20 seconds. Pour into prechilled double old fashioned glasses, each containing 2 ice cubes.

[recipe_title]Screwdriver with Sherry[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]1 cup orange juice[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. oloroso sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. vodka[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup coarsely cracked ice[/recipe]

Put all ingredients in well of electric blender. Blend 20 seconds. Pour into prechilled double old fashioned glasses, each containing 2 ice cubes.

The brunchboard herein delineated is a mere sampling of the multitude of fare suited to make any midday feast into a weekend summer festival.