Through a Glass-Darkly

Velvety dark beer is intended for those who drink beer like wine, not like water. You pour it at the gemütlich dinner when you're serving whole roast tenderloin of beef, at the special board when you're carving a crown of lamb, or at the season's first feast of cold fresh Kennebec salmon. Even with fare as casual as roquefort cheese and sour-dough French bread, or with bowls of fresh crab lump and mayonnaise, it's an extremely pleasant turn-of-the-beer-tide to be able to ask your guests whether they'd prefer Danish dark Carlsberg or Oyster Stout from the Isle of Man. Understandably, beer drinkers are fiercely loyal to one kind of brew. But when four good men of different loyalties are sitting around a pinochle table, the most convivially ubiquitous balm you can dole out, after dealing the cards, is tankards of rich black beer. In food, rather than merely with food, dark beer imparts a mellow, offbeat accent that has absolutely no peer for flavoring dishes as varied as bacon-and-onion rabbit, minute steaks with beer gravy or a dessert of warm baked apples with bread-crumb filling mixed with dark beer, brown sugar and spices.

There's no exact point on the beer spectrum that separates light from dark. Beers range in color from the palest American blonds to the blackest of British stouts. Even the latter aren't literally black. Hold a glass of Guinness up to the light and you'll see ruby threads among the black. There are in-between hues like the Mexican Cerveceria Moctezuma, which leans toward the dark side. What makes a beer turn from light to dark when it's brewed is largely a matter of heat. Beer is liquid barley flavored by hops and fermented by yeast. During the process, the barley malt is roasted--at a low temperature, its color is light; at a higher temperature, the color is deeper brown and the resulting beer is dark. Like dark-roasted coffee, it captures that special crowd that appreciates espresso or café noir rather than just another cup of coffee.

In rare instances, you may encounter a phony dark beer. It's simply a light beer to which color has been added. You can spot it first by its flavor and sometimes by its collar. If the bead is a deep brown and collapses quickly, a fake pigment has been introduced. If the collar is light brown and the flavor lingers, then the beer is the genuine dark brew worthy of Gambrinus himself. Needless to say, the foam on any great beer is creamy thick and holds itself proudly to the last drop.

Dark beers, like certain women, mature beautifully. Most light beers are at their peak of flavor about two to three weeks after they've come from the brewery. Because their shelf life is short, light beers should be bought at a shop with a rapid turnover. But the dust on a bottle of dark beer, like the cobwebs on bottles of rare red burgundies, is often a badge of quality. We recently downed the contents of a can of American dark beer over a year old. Its flavor was both richer and fuller than the dark beer that had left the same brewery only a few weeks before. Explanation? Oxidation. The small amount of air in the head space at the top of the can actually rounds the breed of dark beers to perfection, whereas it weakens its lighter liquid brethren. The new draught Guinness in bottles will handily survive 18 months, a far beer cry from the suds Queen Elizabeth I drank, so strong "no man durst touch," and which the good queen insisted should be matured at least seven or eight hours before she would drink it.

Once a year American and European brewers genuflect to the goat that heralds spring and the bock-beer season. Bock is dark beer with more than usual body, and hoppier--that is, with the added pleasant bitterness that comes from hops rather than malt. It's now on tap, and is the most pleasant kind of prelude for a man learning to savor the brunet brews. Among America's dark delights, Pryor's, with its opulent flavor, is closest to the great German and Scandinavian brews.

The best way to explore the dusky brews is to pour them into large tulip-shaped glasses, just as you would with wine at a wine-tasting party. All first-rank beers, particularly the dark members of the tribe, have a definite malty aroma that is part of their taste profile. If you're tasting two darks or a dark versus a light, keep a pile of bread sticks or water crackers and wedges of hard cheese nearby. Take small nibbles of each between tastings to clear the palate. With plenty of beer, the hopfest can go on for hours.

The darkest and boldest in flavor of imported brews are the British stouts. Mackeson's, once called milk stout because it's brewed with milk sugars, will actually float on top of certain British light beers. Guinness speaks the brogue of its old Dublin dynasty. You may be somewhat less than ecstatic the first time you sip it. Like an initial tasting of Italian aperitif bitters, stout's rich, insolent flavor probably will surprise you. Then, as it slowly flames your appetite and lingers in the back of your mouth, you'll inevitably want more and more. In Malaya, children of Cantonese extraction are still baptized with Guinness instead of water. When Guinness is finished brewing, fresh wort (beer with unspent yeast) is added just before the stout is poured into bottles or kegs. As with champagne, the fermentation is then completed in the container. It's this final step that helps give Guinness its rare ebullience.

Of mixed beer drinks, the most illustrious is black velvet--half stout and half champagne poured into tall Pilsner glasses. It originated in 1861, when Londoners were mourning the death of Queen Victoria's consort, Albert the Good. Champagne was part of the sad ritual, but its color was embarrassingly bright. To make it more in keeping with the grievous event, black stout was addèd by the steward of the fashionable Brooks Club. The black plush is a variation in which sparkling cider is substituted for champagne. In this country, a more doughty drink is the boilermaker, neat whiskey washed down by beer. We especially like its Teutonic version: ice-cold Steinhäger gin (like the Dutch Genever gin in flavor) followed by dark Munich beer. For men whose thirsts can only be assuaged by tonic water, we suggest the refocillater: 6 ozs. ice-cold tonic water, 2 ozs. ice-cold stout and 1 oz. ice-cold brandy poured into a prechilled goblet without ice but with a slice of lemon floating on top.

A. E. Housman once proclaimed, "And malt does more than Milton can/To justify God's ways to man." Dark malt does even better. Use it when you hop from your usual beer and skittles to beer in victuals, of which some splendid examples follow.

[recipe_title]Baked Clams, Chive Stuffing[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 doz. large chowder-size clams on half shell[/recipe]

[recipe]6 slices bacon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup dark beer[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced fresh chives or 2 tablespoons freeze-dried chives[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced fresh dill[/recipe]

Preheat oven at 450°. Cut each slice of bacon crosswise into 4 pieces. Combine bread crumbs, beer, butter, chives and dill. Mix until thoroughly blended. Spoon 1 tablespoon stuffing on top of each clam, spreading smoothly to cover clams completely. Place a piece of bacon on top of each clam. Place clams in shallow baking pan or casserole. Bake until bacon is crisp. Serve at once. Note: Large-size clams, when covered, will be more tender than smaller clams, which heat quickly penetrates and toughens.

[recipe_title]Minute Steaks, Beer Gravy[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]4 boneless steaks, 8 to 10 ozs. each, cut from the shell[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup stout[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dry red wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup water[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon finely minced shallots or scallions[/recipe]

[recipe]1 packet instant bouillon[/recipe]

Preheat electric skillet at 390°. Slash edge of each steak in two or three places to prevent curling. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pan-broil steaks without added fat until brown on both sides or to degree of rareness desired. Remove steaks from pan. Add all other ingredients. Bring to a boil. Scrape pan bottom to loosen drippings. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Pour over steaks on platter.

[recipe_title]Bacon-and-onion Rabbit[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]8 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-in. squares[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1b. sharp process cheddar cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 cups dark beer[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon prepared mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dry mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]4 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dark beer[/recipe]

[recipe]6 pieces toast cut in half diagonally[/recipe]

Cut cheese into 1/2-in. cubes. In top part of double boiler, over a low direct (concluded on page 182) Through a Glass (continued from page 110) flame, sauté bacon and onion until bacon is crisp and onion turns yellow. Avoid browning onion. Drain mixture of fat. Add cheese, 1 1/2 cups beer, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar and both kinds of mustard. Heat in top section of double boiler over simmering water, stirring occasionally, until cheese is completely melted and flavors are blended. In a small bowl, beat egg yolks and 1/4 cup beer. Stir in a few tablespoons hot cheese mixture. Pour into pan and continue heating, stirring constantly, until mixture is thick. Place 2 pieces of toast in each of 4 individual casseroles or shirred-egg dishes. Pour cheese over toast. Place another piece of toast on top each portion.

[recipe_title]Fresh Mackerel, Munich Style[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 fresh mackerel, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 Ibs. each Salt, pepper, celery salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon chervil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion, minced very fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small clove garlic, minced very fine[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons instant-blending flour[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup dark beer[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup clam broth[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 packets instant bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

Have fish dealer split fish, removing backbone. Cut fish lengthwise into 4 halves. Place fish, cut side up, in shallow greased saucepan or electric skillet. If pan is not large enough to keep fish from overlapping, use a baking pan. Sprinkle fish with salt, pepper and celery salt. Add 1 cup water to pan. Sprinkle with juice of lemon. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. In another saucepan, melt butter with bay leaf and chervil. Add onion and garlic and sauté until onion is yellow. Remove from flame and stir in flour. Slowly stir in beer, clam broth and wine. Bring to a boil; reduce flame; simmer 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add bouillon powder and Worcestershire sauce. Season to taste and set aside. Remove fish from pan. Pour off cooking liquid. Return fish to pan. Pour sauce over fish. Again cover pan and simmer, don't boil, 5 minutes longer. Place fish on serving dishes. Spoon sauce over fish.

[recipe_title]Stuffed Cabbage, Beer Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 medium-size head cabbage[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. chopped beef chuck[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons rice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion, minced very fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 piece celery, minced very fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon ground sage[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion, cut julienne[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can tomatoes[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cup dark beer[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]2 packets instant bouillon[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 tablespoons lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]3 whole allspice[/recipe]

Cut core from cabbage. Remove 8 large outside leaves. Cut off thick bottom of leaves. Use balance of cabbage for another purpose. Lower cabbage leaves one at a time into rapidly boiling water. Simmer just until limp. Drain cabbage. Boil rice in salted water until tender. Drain and set aside. In mixing bowl combine beef, rice, onion, celery, sage and bread crumbs. Season with 1 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper and 1/8 teaspoon monosodium glutamate. Mix well. Divide meat into 8 equal parts. Fill each cabbage leaf, folding ends in to make firm roll. Place rolls, seam side down, in shallow pan or Dutch oven. In another saucepan, sauté Spanish onion in butter until onion is yellow. Drain tomatoes, reserving juice. Chop tomatoes coarsely and add, with juice, to onion. Add beer, instant bouillon, lemon juice, vinegar, sugar and allspice, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil. Pour over cabbage rolls. Cover and simmer slowly 1 hour.

[recipe_title]Baked Stuffed Apples[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]2 cans baked apples in syrup, 3 apples per can[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup brown sugar[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/3 cup stout or dark beer[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup melted sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon cinnamon[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1/4 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]Dash nutmeg[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons dark Jamaica rum[/recipe]

[recipe]Heavy sweet cream[/recipe]

Preheat oven at 370°. Drain apples, reserving syrup. In mixing bowl combine bread crumbs, sugar, stout, butter, cinnamon, lemon juice and nutmeg. Mix well. Add more sugar if desired. Place apples in shallow baking pan or casserole. Fill cavity of each apple with bread-crumb mixture and pile on top to form a smooth mound over each apple. Heat apples in oven 20-25 minutes. Combine syrup from apples with rum. Heat over top flame up to boiling point, but do not boil. Place each apple in deep serving dish. At table, pass syrup and heavy cream separately.

To which we can only add--let there be dark, and plenty of it.