Spit Roasting

Today's Do-it-himself Gourmet who finds his taste buds set atingle by even the prospect of a spit-roasting feast is in good company. For over seven centuries, professional roasters have been saying that ovens are perfectly fine for bread or brioche, for gratins and cassoulets, but not for roasts. Ever since the French Guild of Goose Roasters was founded in 1248, rôtis-seurs have used anything from larks to whole lamb to demonstrate that meat, to be perfectly roasted, must meet with a direct flame; that to be beautifully browned, it must turn crisp in the free dry air (not the wet atmosphere that builds up in an oven); and that to conserve its naturally luscious flavor, it must be basted continuously with its own crackling fat and juices. In fact, the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, a distinguished organization of 7000 professional and amateur chefs with chapters all over the world, dedicates itself at innumerable Homeric feasts to spreading the philosophy of the turnspit.

That Americans have even more links in their chaînes is proved not only by the number of indoor rotisseries but also by the outdoor charcoal grills that hold plump fowl, miles of spareribs and countless standing ribs. Standing ribs, of course, don't just stand there, with their juices all flowing in one direction—downward. As the rib roast turns one cheek and then the other to the glowing coals, the inner succulence moves in all directions on the slow Ferris wheel. The beef acquires a fire-kissed savor to which the usual oven roast can never be privy.

The master of the turning spit knows that after he's built his fire and impaled his meat, his chief job will be to do nothing. He can leave his captain's chair and his Pimm's Cup for a minute to brush the spitted meat with its own fat or with a basting sauce. But even these minor duties aren't always necessary. If he's prepared a rice pilaf or a hot potato salad, it can be placed on a warm section of the grill for gentle reheating. If he wants to grill some beefsteak tomatoes or corn on the cob, or heat a loaf of French bread with chive butter, the roastmeister simply relaxes and waits until he's brought the (continued on page 167)Spit Roasting(continued from page 141) spit motor to a lazy halt before starting these chores. The 10- or 15-minute intermission gives the setting roast time to firm up for easy carving.

The chief attraction of the alfresco turnspit is that all kinds of large roasts—Spencer roasts, boned hams, capons and geese—can be done to a turn literally and figuratively. The corpulent roast must have clearance between the spit rod and the grill, but this is the only limitation. Every chap who has tried to grill lamb chops on his outdoor barbecue knows that he can grill them successfully only if he's armed with a high-powered water pistol ready to battle the almost incessant fiare-up from the dripping lamb fat. But a whole rack of lamb, the same meat uncut and in one piece, which makes a small but epicurean roast, faces no such hazard on the rotisserie. Like every roast over charcoal, it's protected by a long, narrow drip pan placed slightly to the front of the revolving meat. Into the drip pan flows the fat, as well as some of the meat's juices. Later on, the fat is discarded and the juices that turn into brown drippings are the essence of delectable gravies. The whole rack may be marinated in a mint-garlic-lemon trio; and this, too, adds a haze of enchantment that eludes the ordinary charred chops. Small viands such as split squabs, pork tenderloins or baby bluefish are fenced in a spit basket, which is nothing more than a wire broiler fastened to the spit to turn as a unit. The basket eliminates not only the endless Hip-flopping but also the possibility of instant charring. Certain tough cuts, such as short ribs of beef, whose normal destiny is the stew pot, become incredibly tender when taken for a ride on the turning spit.

Managing a rotisserie isn't tightrope walking; but you've got to be something of a balancing artist, just the same. The weight of a plump bird or joint on the spit should be evenly distributed, or the rod may get out of balance, moving in fits and starts. Ideally, you should stab the meat through its center of gravity. Thus, if you're fencing with a large standing rib roast, slender at the top but built like Falstaff at the bottom, it's best to pierce the meat diagonally from the top end of one side to the heavy bottom at the opposite end. Some turnspits are equipped with a set of compensating weights, a neat gadget that can be hooked up and boosted, if necessary, during the roasting. There are some heavy-duty rotisseries with doughty spit rods and powerful motors, and if you own one of these, balancing is never a problem. Finally, there are spitless spits, flexible, self-balancing metal cages designed for large or small roasts.

All roasts should be made as compact as possible before they're mounted on the spit. Akimbo chicken wings and flapping drumsticks should be skewered as close to the body as you can get them. Boned roasts should be tied into a symmetrical shape by the butcher. In season, pheasants or partridges, which may be dry, should wear a thin shield of salt pork tied snugly around the birds' breasts.

Most bottled sauces for basting would be delightful if only they tasted at the end of the spit run as they did at the beginning. When too much basting sauce has been brushed too soon on the flesh, the heat often reduces it to a caramelized, tasteless crust. A good rule is to take any bottled thick basting liquid and thin it with equal parts of dry wine or stock. Don't baste too often. When the roast is finished, add a final dab before carving, or pass the sauce at the table.

In the past, spits have been turned by many different forms of energy. They've been operated by slaves, scullery help, children and even dogs. In England, a special canine with a low body and sturdy legs was bred to keep a treadmill going. There were more elaborate spits turned by windmills. At one time, roasting jacks suspended above the fireplace were operated by elaborate clock mechanisms or by the weight of the meat itself. Nowadays, plug-in chefs will find a crowd of new stainless-steel faces. There are gas or electric rotisseries fired from the top, the bottom or the sides. There are charcoal rotisseries for indoor or outdoor use, with vertical fireboxes in the rear so that the fat can never jump from the turnspit into the fire. The Farber-ware open-hearth rotisserie turns above closed heating rods; its drip pan is far below the line of fire, so thatÈunintentional smoke signals never go up. Many wall ovens are fitted with rotisseries beneath the broiler; it's always a good idea to keep the door open, so that the turning meat enjoys the pulse of fresh air.

And now, to prove that turnabout is fare play, we offer the following:

[recipe_title]Short Ribs, Robert Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]4 lbs. short ribs of beef[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]l/2 cup bottled Robert sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry red wine[/recipe]

Remove bones from short ribs, cutting as close to meat as possible. Brush lightly with oil and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Fasten on spit, keeping chunks slightly separated, if possible, for thorough browning. Roast over charcoal fire, using long, narrow drip pan set slightly toward front of short ribs. Disposable aluminum pans (the kind used for frozen pastries) are good for this job. Add a little water to drip pan to prevent smoking. Combine Robert sauce and wine, mixing well. As soon as meat turns light brown, brush with sauce mixture. Roast meat for about I hour or until thoroughly browned, brushing with sauce at 20-minute intervals.

[recipe_title]Curried Rock Cornish Game Hens[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]4 Rock Cornish game hens, 1 lb. each[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons curry powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon white pepper[/recipe]

Thaw hens in refrigerator. (Squab chickens or squabs, 1 lb. each, may be substituted for Rock Cornish game hens.) Combine all other ingredients, mixing well. Pour over hens, and marinate at least 3 to 4 hours in refrigerator. Preheat electric rotisserie or prepare charcoal fire. Place hens on spit, using extra spit holders, if necessary, to hold 4 birds in place, moving as a unit. End birds may be held by spit holders and middle birds attached to them with skewers. Roast 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until well browned and tender, brushing several times during roasting with marinade. Serve with pistachio rice pilaf and chutney.

[recipe_title]Pistachio Rice Pilaf[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup finely minced celery[/recipe]

[recipe]l/4 cup finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]13/4 cups chicken broth or stock made with bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dry sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup converted rice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. shelled salted pistachios[/recipe]

Melt butter in heavy saucepan. Add celery, onion and bay leaf and saute until onion is tender, not brown. Add chicken broth, sherry, rice and salt. Stir well. Bring to a boil; reduce flame as low as possible; cover with tight lid and cook without stirring until rice is tender —18 to 20 minutes. Do not stir while cooking. Remove bay leaf and add pistachios, tossing lightly with fork.

[recipe_title]Spit-roasted Fillet Of Beef[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

Order a prime, well-aged beef fillet (tenderloin) weighing about 6 lbs. before trimming. Do not follow the advice in some cookbooks that a lower grade of fillet is as good as the prime. Have the butcher remove the fat and tie the meat for roasting, folding the thin end under to make a symmetrical roast. Some chefs like a larded fillet; that is, one through which the butcher has drawn long thin pieces of fat, using a larding needle; the meat is richer tasting, but the beef flavor is modified—a matter of personal taste. Let the fillet stand at room temperature for at least an hour before roasting. If a charcoal fire is prepared, be sure it's very hot; or set the electric rotisserie at the highest temperature. Fasten meat on turnspit, brush generously with melted butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast 35 to 40 minutes, brushing several times with melted butter. Remove meat from spit and let it set for at least 20 minutes. Just before carving, place the whole fillet on the hot grill for a few minutes on each side. With roasted fillet, good accompaniments are foil-covered potatoes roasted right on the coals and broiled or sautéed mushrooms. Serve pâlé de foie gras as an appetizer and bring on the fillet to the sound of trumpets.

[recipe_title]Hot Charcuterie With Mustard[/recipe_title]

(Serves 12)

[recipe]3-lb. cooked, trimmed and skinned corned or smoked tongue[/recipe]

[recipe]2-lb. piece Taylor pork roll[/recipe]

[recipe]2-lb. piece Canadian bacon (cooked smoked boneless pork loin)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup prepared mustard (Dijon or Dijon style)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup salad oil[/recipe]

Narrow end of tongue should be folded under and skewered to make compact piece. If base of tongue (root end) is tough, cut it away before fastening meat on spit. Remove outer casing of pork roll. Fasten tongue, pork roll and bacon on spit. Use three spit holders to keep meat in place. If only two are available, fasten center piece of meat to end pieces with a long skewer. Combine mustard, cream and oil, mixing until well blended. Brush meats with mustard mixture. Roast 45 minutes, basting every 15 minutes with mustard. Meats need not "set" after roasting, like fresh meats, but should be sliced thin while piping hot. Serve on toasted split long French bread, toasted split soft buns or sour rye bread. Serve with warm or cold potato and leek salad. Keep the party foaming with ice-cold beer or ale.

[recipe_title]Potato And Leek Salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves 12)

[recipe]4 lbs. medium-size potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]8 large leeks[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup white wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon prepared mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dry mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons fresh chives, minced very fine[/recipe]

[recipe]4 small sour pickles, minced very fine Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Boil potatoes in jackets until just tender. Drain. As soon as potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them, then cut lengthwise into four strips each. Cut strips crosswise into l/2-in.-thick slices. Cut away green part of leeks; then cut them lengthwise in half, then crosswise into 1/4-in. slices. Wash well to remove sand and drain in large wire strainer. Sauté leeks in oil over low flame until just tender. Combine wine, wine vinegar, prepared mustard and dry mustard, mixing well with wire whip. To potatoes, add leeks with their oil, wine mixture, chives and pickles. Toss gently; add salt and pepper to taste. Salad may be served cold. "Hot" potato salad is always actually served warm, and may be heated gently in a flameproof casserole over the coals or in a moderate oven.

[recipe_title]Rock Lobster, Anchovy Butter[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]4 9-oz. pkgs. frozen lobster tails Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 lb. sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons anchovy paste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice Cayenne pepper[/recipe]

Keep lobster tails frozen until ready to use. They may be roasted in a spit basket or pierced individually by spit rod. To pierce lobster, use a skewer to make a hole in center of each tail. Force skewer through underbelly and out of hard shell on opposite side. Arrange lobster tails on spit rod; end pieces should be held in place with spit holders at ends of rod. Keep all lobster tails moving as a unit with the use of jumbo-size skewers holding them from one end of spit rod to the other. Brush lobster generously with oil. Roast 15-20 minutes over very hot charcoal fire or in electric rotisserie set at highest temperature. While lobster is on turnspit, melt butter slowly over low flame. Skim off foam from top and pour off butter to another container, omitting sediment at bottom of pan. Add anchovy paste, lemon juice and dash of cayenne. Cut lobster tails in half lengthwise with heavy French knife. Serve anchovy butter at table in individual sauceboats or dishes for dipping. Grilled tomatoes, corn on the cob, julienne potatoes or Saratoga potatoes are all natural members of the camaraderie.

[recipe_title]Mint-Basted Rack Of Lamb[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 single racks of lamb, 3 lbs. each[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dried mint leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large cloves garlic Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Have butcher saw off ends of racks, so that there will be enough clearance between spit and grill for lamb to rotate. Have him remove backbone for later carving. Crush mint leaves between fingers. Combine oil, lemon juice, mint leaves and garlic smashed lightly with side of French knife. Pour over lamb. Marinate overnight. Remove lamb from marinade and fasten racks on spit. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Remove garlic from marinade. Roast lamb over strong fire 30 to 40 minutes. Meat should be slightly pink, not well done. Brush two or three times during roasting with marinade. Carve meat, and brush cut pieces with marinade. Pistachio rice pilaf, grilled eggplant steaks and cold fresh asparagus vinaigrette enhance a sumptuous lamb roast.

And thus we see how a feast can be turned to one's advantage.