Elegance Under the Stars

Something Marvelously Metaphysical takes place when an indoor meal, no matter how magnificent, is carried outdoors. Simply by crossing the threshold between living room and terrace, vichyssoise suddenly becomes creamier, champagne bubblier and fruit juicier. An alfresco dining room can be a terrace high above a city street, a stretch of blue-stone beside a swimming pool or a grass carpet under a patio umbrella. Wherever he holds forth, the host planning his party must remember above all else that the Italian word fresco means fresh, green or new; and that while sunlight and cool zephyrs and starry nights are all indispensable seasoning ingredients, a perfect menu should follow the fresh-green-new party line.

Quite often, a meal served under the heavens will include an old classic, such as cold chicken Jeanette—boneless breast of chicken in a velvety jellied sauce, flanked with slices of pâté de foie gras. It's not literally new, but like the charm of baroque music reaching ears for the first time, it comes as a fresh discovery whenever it's served. A bowl of pasta does not an Italian menu make. But when long threads of vermicelli are tossed with fresh chunks of Atlantic crab meat, minced green peppers, scallions and chives, the old world takes on a new delicious luster.

An elegant alfresco dinner can be a city mile from the stereotype cold picnic. A basket of cold cuts, a loaf of bread and a jug of wine may be paradise enow when transported from the trunk of your Jag to your own secluded babbling brook. But alfresco menus on the grand scale tend to be an appetizing amalgam of hot and cold. Hot consommé with a feathery garnish of spun eggs will provide all the benefits of a kitchen comfortably beyond the range of its heat. Cold peaches in champagne will take the edge off the most torrid summer day.

At no time of the year is the gourmet's almanac as richly crowded as the June-through-September season of lobster, crab meat, asparagus, melons, berries and peaches. There are now strawberries so large and luscious that they come equipped with their own tableware—long green stems for eating the fruit or for dipping it into a combination of brown sugar and sour cream. Both Frenchmen and Italians have a way with strawberries, and alfresco chefs with a sweet tooth find endless inspiration in the Italian berry bowl of strawberries mingled with softly whipped cream, liqueurs and pasticceria. Summertime melons can supplant soup, appetizer or dessert at an alfresco feast. They must be frosty cold and, usually, the bigger and thicker, the better. Melon with fruit is a well-known charm on a summer menu. When you think of the wide variety of melons—honeydews with their lime-colored flesh, Persian melons with their incredibly heavy meat, looking like cantaloupes but tasting infinitely richer, subtly flavored casabas and late Cranshaws bursting with juice—and when you also think not only of the spicy prosciutto but of the more delicate Westphalian ham and the pepper-cured Smithfield ham, the possible permutations in this department reach infinity. The first of the Deep South's peaches to put in an appearance are the crimson-flushed Early Rose, clinging like virtue to their stones. They're followed in time by the sensuously sweet Elbertas, which are, of course, freestone.

Like coffee and cognac, alfresco dinners and summer wine cups glorify each other. Wine cups are based on the sound theory that thirst quenchers and summer entertainment can both flow from the same pitcher. Actually, wine cups are neither served in cups nor mixed in cups, but in the tallest pitchers you can find. There are as many different wine cups as there are men to mix them. The wine may be any red from claret to chianti, any white from riesling to Chilean blanco; but in every case, it must be dry with the rich taunting flavor of the grape. The Spanish are past masters at this art, as anyone can testify who's ever slaked his thirst with the countless species of sangrías in the Iberian Peninsula. About an hour before mealtime, the Spanish maestro at the bar marinates his wine, fruit and fruit peel. This short siesta is what gives the sangría its benison. All good wine cups in the summertime seem to share one common fault: They're never big enough. Even nonwine drinkers find themselves drinking on and on. Hours will pass, and the wine cup is still fresco. We're in the habit of pouring a bottle of claret into a 2-quart pitcher and adding 8 ozs. fresh orange juice, 2 ozs. fresh lemon juice, 3 tablespoons sugar, 2 whole rinds of large California oranges cut into horse's necks, 6 slices each of orange and lemon and 11/2 teaspoons Angostura bitters. When this last occult ingredient has been thoroughly introduced to everything else with a long bar spoon, we stow the pitcher in the refrigerator till the alfresco hour, when we add club soda and ice, in about equal quantities, filling the pitcher to the rim.

There were terraces long before there were tranquilizers. Guests, stretched out on your leisure chairs, feeling charitable toward the whole world, may be predisposed to find whatever food and drink you proffer to be perfect. But the host himself should never be a victim of his own built-in hospitality. To help keep him as carefree as possible, there are now countless models of food carts, all designed to quickly and quietly transport food and drink from indoors to outdoors. There are carts with movable shelves and drawers, carts with hot table surfaces that merely require plugging in to keep soup marmites and casseroles bubbling hot. There are others with recessed condiment racks, some with galleries to guard gin and tonic from sliding onto the flagstones. There are carts with beds for charcoal fires and beds for crushed ice. There are bars on wheels and ice tubs on wheels. Be sure, however, that whatever model you choose rides on soft rubber tires and ball-bearing wheels for conquering the sometimes rough journey from carpet to doorsill to terrace.

For hosts whose châteaux have too many stairs for anything on wheels, there are on-the-spot electric tureens and casseroles for keeping hot things hot, and deep trays with ice sections for keeping cold things cold. In spite of all the streamlined bar equipment, there's much to be said for the old-fashioned wicker tote basket, holding its cargo of six basic bottles—Scotch, American whiskey, gin, rum, vodka and vermouth. Finally, for the alfresco late show, the proper romantic glow can be supplied by slender butane candles, which neither burn down nor drip nor smoke.

A pleasant gourmandial note is struck when an alfresco menu bears the decisive flavor of one nation or another's kitchen. Over the years, the French and Italian cuisines, like the two Rivieras, have overlapped and influenced each other so much that the influenced dishes often turn out to be superior to the models from which they sprung. The French strawberries marinated in liqueur (fraises Romanoff) become the even tastier Italian strawberries amarettini. Italian stracciatella soup becomes consommé Windsor or consommé with spun eggs. Here now, speaking for both schools, are two designs for prandial pleasure. Each of the following recipes serves six.

I. Gorgonzola Cream Vermicelli with Crab Meat Verde Romaine, Egg and Anchovy Salad Strawberries Amarettini Espresso

Corgonzola Cream

Crumble 12 ozs. gorgonzola cheese. Force it through a wire strainer or colander. Add 3 ozs. sweet butter at room temperature. Mix well. Shape into a round or oval cake 3/4 in. thick. Place on serving plate. Sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese and with finely minced fresh chives. Serve as spread for cocktail crackers.

[recipe_Title]Vermicelli With Crab Meat Verde[/recipe_Title]

[recipe]11/2 lbs. fresh deluxe crab lump[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup finely minced green pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]3 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup clam broth[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons finely minced celery leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon finely minced chives[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dry white wine Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]11/2 lbs. vermicelli[/recipe]

Examine crab lump carefully and remove any pieces of shell or cartilage. Sauté onion, green pepper, scallions and oregano in butter just until onion turns yellow. Remove from fire and stir in flour, blending well. In a saucepan, heat milk, cream and clam broth to boiling point. Slowly stir milk mixture into sautéed vegetables. Return to a low flame and simmer 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add crab lump, celery leaves, chives, white wine, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until crab meat is heated through. Keep sauce warm until serving time. Cook vermicelli in salted water until just tender. Drain very well. Pour sauce over vermicelli on serving plates.

Romaine, Egg and Anchovy Salad

Lower a large tomato into boiling salted water for 20 seconds. Peel tomato and cut out stem end. Squeeze to remove excess water. Cut 6 anchovy fillets into small dice. Chop tomato with anchovies until tomato is reduced to a pulp. Rub a salad bowl well with a cut clove of garlic. Prepare enough romaine to make 6 cups, cut or torn into 1-in. pieces. Romaine should be very well dried with paper toweling. Place romaine in bowl. Add 1 hard-boiled egg cut into small dice. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil or more to taste. Toss well. Add tomato mixture and 1 tablespoon wine vinegar. Toss well. Season to taste.

[recipe_Title]Strawberries Amarettini[/recipe_Title]

[drinkRecipe]1 quart large strawberries[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. strawberry liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. kirsch liqueur (not the usual dry kirsch)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cup heavy cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 tablespoons sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon vanilla[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]131/2-oz. can pineapple chunks, well drained[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3-oz. pkg. amarettini (tiny imported macaroons)[/drinkRecipe]

Remove stems from strawberries. If berries are large, slice in half lengthwise. (concluded on page 155) Elegance (continued from page 66) Combine strawberries, 1/4 cup sugar, strawberry liqueur and kirsch liqueur. Marinate in refrigerator 2 to 3 hours. Whip cream until thick but not stiff. Add 3 tablespoons sugar and vanilla to cream. In large bowl, combine pineapple, strawberries, whipped cream and amarettini. Toss lightly. Serve ice cold.

II. Consommé with Spun Eggs Cold Chicken Jeanette Fresh Asparagus Vinaigrette Peaches in Champagne Demitasse

Consommé With Spun Eggs

Bring 6 cups chicken broth or 3 cups chicken broth and 3 cups beef broth to a rapid boil. Beat 3 eggs well with wire whip or rotary egg beater. Slowly pour eggs into boiling broth, stirring constantly with wire whip. As soon as all eggs are added, remove soup from flame. Add 1 tablespoon each of finely minced fresh chives and fresh chervil or parsley.

[recipe_Title]Cold Chicken Jeanette[/recipe_Title]

[recipe]3 large whole breasts of chicken[/recipe]

[recipe]2 chicken backs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery[/recipe]

[recipe]6 sprigs parsley Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]5-oz. block pâté de foie gras or mousse de foie gras[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 envelope plain gelatin[/recipe]

[recipe]12 fresh tarragon leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. can consommé (for jelling)[/recipe]

In 2 quarts slightly salted water, boil chicken breasts, chicken backs, onion, celery and parsley until breasts are tender—30 to 40 minutes. (Backs are used to give broth body and are not part of finished dish.) When chicken is cool enough to handle, lift meat from bones and skin, making 6 individual portions. Cut each portion in half horizontally. Cut foie gras into 18 slices, dipping sharp knife into hot water for easy slicing. Place a slice of foie gras between slices of chicken. Strain chicken broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If broth seems weak in flavor, add a packet or two of instant bouillon. Set aside 11/4 cups broth for sauce. In a heavy saucepan, melt butter over low flame. Remove from flame and stir in flour, mixing well. Slowly stir in 11/4 cups broth. Bring to a boil; reduce flame and simmer 10 minutes. Stir in heavy cream and remove from flame. Soften gelatin in 1/4 cup cold water. Stir gelatin into hot sauce. Chill sauce in refrigerator until it is about room temperature, but do not let it jell. Place chicken on serving platter. Alongside each portion of chicken, place 2 slices foie gras. Pour sauce over chicken, not over foie gras, coating each piece completely. Chill in refrigerator until sauce is jelled. Dip tarragon leaves in boiling water for about 10 seconds. On each portion of chicken, press 2 tarragon leaves in V shape. Chill consommé in refrigerator, but do not let it jell. Brush consommé over both chicken and foie gras, coating both with light film. Return to refrigerator until consommé sets. Balance of consommé may be jelled completely and forced through pastry bag and tube as garnish for platter.

Fresh Asparagus Vinaigrette

Remove tough ends from 3 lbs. large-size fresh asparagus. The asparagus will usually snap at point where tough end begins, or ends may be cut off with knife to keep stalks uniform in size. Pare each stalk with vegetable peeler to remove stringy outside and scales. Wash very well to remove any sand. Boil in salted water until tender—10 to 15 minutes. Drain. Chill thoroughly. Serve, on leaves of Boston lettuce, with an olive-oil French dressing flavored with finely chopped pimientos and hard-boiled egg. Egg may be omitted if desired.

Peaches in Champagne

Dip 9 large- or 12 medium-size ripe freestone peaches in boiling water for about 1/2 minute. Hold under cold running water. Peel peaches and cut into 1/2-in.-thick slices. Sweeten with 1/2 cup sugar or more to taste. Mix well. Chill thoroughly in refrigerator. Chill a pint of dry champagne. Pour champagne over peaches in large glass bowl.

This is, of course, only a small sampling of the elegant alfresco fare available to the urban outdoorsman. Day or night, the sky's the limit for do-it-yourself dining out.