A Little over a year ago, Playboy announced, "There is a full-scale revolution taking place in men's fashions." Our forecast has proven uncannily correct. Since then, the locked-in look of sartorial traditionalism that repressed--rather than developed--the wearer's individual fashion image has rapidly faded from the urban scene and a bold new breed of American and European designer-inspired styles is becoming the clothing order of the day. For the warm months ahead, we see a continuing trend toward bolder shades, trimmer tailoring and lighter, more luxurious fabrics. Categories of clothing are disappearing; once-sporty accessories, such as the turtleneck, now can be coupled with suits and formal-wear for a sophisticated yet casual look.
This spring, begin sprucing up your wardrobe by selecting suit styles that are both close-fitting and colorful. You'll find that jackets now extend an inch or two longer, with more shape at the waist; lapels are broader and the chest is trimmer but not tight. Trousers are slim and slightly tapered. We prefer styles that offer an angled cuff that covers the back of the shoe. This keeps the ankles out of sight while you're walking. In any fashion picture, details play an important part. This year, suit manufacturers have taken their tailoring cue from the custom shops by offering slimmer sleeves and higher armholes that give coats a smooth, fitted look across the back.
If you're a staunch supporter of Ivy-inspired suits with three buttons, center vent and conventional pockets, try a colorful change of pace. Conservatively cut styles are now available in a rainbow of hues, including green and yellow. They look best when worn with a medium-spread-collar, deep-tone shirt.
Double-breasted styles in suits, sports coats and blazers have taken shape in the best of fashion traditions. Four- or six-button models with deep side vents in solids, bold plaids, chalk stripes or color-on-color stripes are the established ground rules to follow.
The Mao coat, with straight stand-up collar and lapelless button front, is a good-looking substitute for a sports coat or a blazer. We predict that it will open new fashion directions and, by next season, will have strongly influenced suits, sports apparel and formalwear styles.
Slacks in a multitude of colors and fabrics--from persimmon to mint green and pin-wale corduroy to velvet--are solid favorites. Colors such as royal blue, lavender or emerald green can stand alone or be mixed--say, orange with brown--for additional fashion effects. Also look for trim Ivy-style slacks in wisteria (a subtle purple) and a pure pink shade in linen blends and pin-wale corduroy.
In dress shirts, there's a sunny spectrum of shades from which to choose, including electric blue, melon, gold, purple, raspberry (text concluded on page 93) and apricot. Collars are fuller, broader and higher; buttondowns, incidentally, simply don't make it with the trimmer, more shaped styles in suits. Save them to wear with Ivy-inspired outfits.
Our Spring and Summer Fashion Forecast is highlighted by the introduction of the supershirt: a casual shirt of luxurious fabrics--velvet or cotton Jacquard, for example--that's cut longer and wider, with a higher collar. For added elegance, you can wear it open, with a full scarf knotted around the neck, or closed, with a pocket square tied under the collar like a tie.
From adventurously colorful business suits to supershirts, we've outlined the coming trends toward more sophisticated urban wear. Now it's up to you to pick out the hot new items that will best enhance your warm-weather fashion image.
