Fare Play for Cocktail Parties

Cocktailing, of course, has long since outgrown the axiom that two peanuts make a party. True, the taste of a handful of potato chips may survive one or two deep sips of a double Scotch, but an appetite of any sizable dimensions won't be assuaged by going the onion-dip route. Substantial dishes such as casseroles of chicken and sausage, bowls of herbed rice, and Swedish sweet-and-sour brown beans with apple are much more closely attuned to contemporary cocktailing, which almost always finds the festivities extending beyond a reasonable dinner hour. The host who can astutely combine food and drink and thereby solve his guests' ever-present what-to-do-about-dinner dilemma is a thoughtful host, indeed. And thus is born the cocktail dinner, which stands between the tidbittery of olives wrapped with bacon and the full-fledged dinner, but closer to the latter in its ability to satisfy the inner man. Properly carried out, it provides all the glamor of a dinner without its elaborate layout. Even with the really massive cocktail party, where one has to break out the movable coat racks and folding chairs, a single hot dish such as a sumptuous chowder or a hot curry, served toward the end of the festivities, makes people feel that the affair's been something special.

The cocktail dinner nicely avoids the abrupt transition that occurs when the host has to shepherd his flock away from the bar and toward the dinner table. If you've got a blissful 11-to-1 martini in tow, why shouldn't you at the same time help yourself to a plate of Italian cold cuts and a fettuccini salad with parmesan dressing? Or you may be sampling your first frozen daiquiri when the soy-flavored beef on a skewer is carried to the buffet table. It happens to be the kind of Oriental beef dish that not only goes with a frozen daiquiri, as red wine goes with a saddle of venison, but continues to please the palate just as serenely during the second and third rounds of frozen daiquiris. There are Frenchmen who have always argued passionately that champagne may be sipped with any food at any time except between the hours of four A.M. and eight A.M., that bothersome interval between the night before and the next day. Similarly, it's time for Americans to put their own drinks down long enough to say that a Sazerac or a bourbon mist is just as gratifying before the dinner as it is later with the veal goulash, with the charcoal-broiled shell steak or with the platter of assorted cheeses and crackers.

At a full-course sit-down dinner, the number of guests you can invite is necessarily limited to the circumference of your dining table divided by the diameter of each guest at hip level. At a cocktail dinner, each man or woman needs only a chair and lap space—an immense boon to hosts planning boat parties or studio parties where space is limited, as well as to hosts planning poolside or patio parties where space isn't as limited but where guests like to sprawl on outdoor chaise longues or on mother earth itself rather than around a more formal table. When you break the news of your party to the invitees, be sure they understand clearly that they're coming to a fete where thirst and hunger will both be assuaged. Since food is being served, you naturally shouldn't draw the line for winding up the party at any particular time.

Let your food be ample, your menu brief. Instead of caravans of rich canapés with more garnishes than you can shake a swizzle stick at, the food appetizers should take the form of only a few cold and hot hors d'oeuvres of unrivaled delectability. They should make their bow with the second round of drinks and should continue to be offered up to the arrival of the principal offerings. Frequently, a fine hors d'oeuvre will carry its own built-in halo, such as fresh Beluga caviar with buttered fresh toast or with blini and sour cream. Again, it may be one that bears your own touch of kitchen genius, such as dilled shrimp with a chutney-flavored dressing. Among the best of the hot lures is a bubbling Welsh rabbit or a Swiss-cheese fondue with chunks of French bread to be speared with fondue forks at a small party or with disposable bamboo skewers at a large conclave. One of the best fondue variations: Mix a small amount of provolone cheese for its smoky flavor along with the regular Swiss gruyère cheese.

The main dish of a cocktail dinner may be hot or cold or a seasonable combination of the two. Cold glazed ham with hot Swedish brown beans and apple is a blissful partnership; a hot veal goulash may be served with hot buttered noodles or with the cold noodles in a fettuccini salad. The dessert, especially in the warm months, should be the noncooked type, such as a fresh-fruit compote with kirsch or strawberries Romanoff, supplemented with a tray of assorted small specialties from the best pastry shop in town.

Hosts should face the fact that at cocktail time the most important things aren't necessarily cocktails. They may be highballs or, more likely these days, on-the-rocks drinks of any variety. In sultry weather, they may be rickeys or cobblers or other iced potables on the dry rather than the dulcet side. If you've a conventional drink for which you've won plaudits or a new drink you'd like to introduce, a good technique is to prepare beforehand an outsize pitcherful or an extra-large shakerful. After shaking or stirring briskly, remove the ice. It may be necessary to make two batches to fill the container. Store it in the freezer, temporarily, until the crowd arrives. Then place the pitcher or shaker on top of a deep bed of ice in a champagne bucket. The presentation is worth its weight in Baccarat. The more gleaming the pitcher and glassware and the shinier the champagne bucket, the more receptive everyone will be to the single potable, old or new. You should keep available in the background the usual whiskeys and spirits for the diehards—if, indeed, there are any—who may insist on their habitual firewater. Hosts who confidently offer one main dish at a cocktail dinner shouldn't hesitate to offer one main drink, perfectly served.

One of the curious aspects of the familiar cocktail party is its noise level. It invariably starts low and then rises in a zooming curve until it reaches about 85 decibels, at which point most conversation becomes generally unintelligible. At a cocktail dinner, the host alone calls the tune, raising or lowering the volume almost at will. Let him lead his guests to a platter of seafood or a block of pâté de foie gras and sound will miraculously descend to an easy conversational tone. Later it will again rise. Let him bring on the hot lobster cutlets with a sauce diavolo and you'll hear a pin drop. After the main course is over and the small babas au rhum have disappeared and the hot coffee has been poured, it will again rise slightly and then stay on the mellow plane of friends quietly enjoying their brandy snifters and their liqueur frappés. Wise men planning a cocktail dinner should consult the following trail blazers.

[recipe_title]Dilled Shrimps, Chutney Dressing[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]3 lbs. raw shrimps in shell or 1-1/2 lbs. cooked shrimps, shelled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup cider vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons dill weed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large sliced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup chutney, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup heavy sweet cream[/recipe]

If shrimps are raw, boil 3 to 5 minutes; shell and devein. Bring water, vinegar, sugar, dill weed, salt and onion to a boil. Pour over shrimps. Marinate in refrigerator overnight. Drain. Combine mayonnaise, chutney and cream, mixing well. Use chutney dressing as a dip for shrimps.

[recipe_title]Veal Goulash[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]3-lb. boneless shoulder of veal, 3/4-in. cubes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup finely minced celery[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]4 packets instant bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 2-oz. jars roasted pimiento strips, minced extremely fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large canned tomatoes, minced extremely fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup grated raw potato, grated just before going into pot[/recipe]

Heat salad oil in deep saucepan or stewpot. Add veal, onion and celery. Mix very well. Sautè, stirring frequently, until meat loses pink color. Stir in paprika and flour, mixing very well. Add 1 quart water, instant bouillon, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper. Add pimientos and tomatoes. Bring to a boil. Reduce flame and simmer, covered, 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Add potato. Simmer until veal is very tender, about 20 to 30 minutes longer. Correct seasoning. Goulash is best if stored one or two days in refrigerator before serving. Serve with rice, with hot buttered noodles or with fettuccini salad below.

[recipe_title]Fettuccini Salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]1 lb. fine-size egg noodles[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup thinly sliced red radishes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small green pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 medium-size cucumber[/recipe]

[recipe]4 scallions[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

(concluded on page 212) Cocktail Parties (continued from page 116)

In Italy, fettuccini are usually the wide-size egg noodles. In this country, the medium- or fine-size are preferred, especially for pasta salads. Boil noodles in salted water, following directions on package. Drain very well, pressing noodles in strainer to remove surplus water. In a large mixing bowl, combine noodles with olive oil. Cut radishes into very thin slices, then cut crosswise into thinnest possible strips. Cut green pepper the same size as the radishes. Peel cucumber and remove seeds with spoon. Cut the same size as the radishes or as close as possible. Cut scallions, white and green parts, crosswise into thinnest possible slices. Combine noodles with radishes, green pepper, cucumber, scallions, cheese, vinegar and cream. Mix well, tossing with a two-pronged kitchen fork. Add salt and pepper to taste. Transfer salad to serving bowl. Chill well before serving.

[recipe_title]Skewered Beef, Almond Dip[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]6 1bs. sirloin steak, 1 in. thick[/recipe]

[recipe]2 scallions, sliced thin[/recipe]

[recipe]2 3-1/2-oz. packages ground almonds[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup lime juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons dry sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup yoghurt[/recipe]

Remove bone, gristle and fat from steak. Cut steak into strips 1 in. square and 1/2 in. thick. Put scallions and 1-1/4 cups water in blender. Blend at high speed 1 minute. Pour into mixing bowl. Add almonds, soy sauce, lime juice, oil, sherry and sugar. Mix well. (If ground almonds are unavailable, almond slices may be ground in blender.) Remove 2/3 cup almond mixture, mix with yoghurt and chill. Marinate beef in remaining almond mixture for 1 hour. Thread beef on 8 skewers. Prepare charcoal fire or preheat broiler for 1/2 hour. Broil beef, turning once, until browned. Serve with chilled almond dip.

[recipe_title]Chicken and Sausage Casserole[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]8 whole breasts of chicken (16 halves)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1b. button mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1b. small link sausages[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate, 2 12-oz. cans concentrated chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]3 dashes Tabasco sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon brown gravy color[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. cognac[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. dry sherry[/recipe]

Remove skin and bone from chicken, or bribe or persuade your butcher to do the job for you. Cut off mushroom stems protruding beyond bottom of cap. Stems may be used for another purpose. Pierce each sausage link several times with a two-pronged kitchen fork. Cook sausage, following directions on package. Cut each link crosswise into three pieces; set aside. Remove long fillet on underside of each chicken breast and cut crosswise in half. Cut balance of breast pieces crosswise into 1/2-in. slices. Heat oil and butter in a large stewpot or Dutch oven until butter melts. Add chicken and mushrooms. Sauté, stirring constantly until chicken loses raw color. Sprinkle flour into pot and stir well until no white flour is visible. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate. Add chicken broth and 2 12-oz. cans water, vinegar, lemon juice and Tabasco sauce. Stir well; bring to a boil; reduce flame and simmer 20 minutes. Add sausages. Add brown gravy color, cognac and sherry. Simmer 5 minutes. Correct seasoning. Serve with herbed rice; that is, cooked rice flavored after cooking with finely minced fresh parsley, fresh chives and fresh chervil, if available.

[recipe_title]Rock Lobster Croquettes Diavolo[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]3 9-oz. packages frozen rock lobster tails[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]Instantized flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups milk[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]Bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion, grated[/recipe]

[recipe]2 whole eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

In Southern or tropical regions, fresh lobster tails should be used, if at hand. Cook lobster tails, following directions on package. Drain. When cool enough to handle, remove meat from shells and cut into small cubes no more than 1/4 in. thick. Put butter, 6 tablespoons flour and milk in a heavy saucepan. Heat over moderate flame, stirring constantly, until butter is melted and sauce is thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Combine sauce with lobster, egg yolks, 1/3 cup bread crumbs, lemon juice and onion, stirring very well. Chill in refrigerator, overnight if possible. Using a small ice-cream scoop as a measure, divide lobster mixture into 16 mounds, each enough for a croquette. Shape into flat cakes, cylinders or cones. Beat whole eggs well. Dip cutlets first into flour, then into eggs and finally into bread crumbs. If mixture is difficult to handle, a small additional amount of bread crumbs may be added, but use as little as possible. Fry in deep oil heated to 370° or in a heavy skillet with 1-1/2 in. oil. Serve with sauce diavolo, below.

[recipe_title]Sauce Diavolo[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]2 8-oz. cans tomato sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons red wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons Dijon mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dried basil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

In a heavy saucepan, combine tomato sauce, vinegar, pepper, mustard, brandy and basil. Mix well with a wire whip until mustard is well blended with other ingredients. Heat slowly, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Remove from flame. Add butter, stirring until melted. Keep sauce warm over a candle or low trivet flame. Serve with lobster croquettes.

[recipe_title]Swedish Brown Beans with Apple[/recipe_title]

(Serves 12)

[recipe]1 1b. small white pea beans[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup finely minced celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 1b. butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 packets instant bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup dark molasses[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup dark-brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon brown gravy color[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup cider vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]25-oz. can apple-pie filling[/recipe]

Be sure apple-pie filling is sweetened and spiced, ready for the crust, and not sliced apples in water. Wash beans, drain and soak overnight in 2 quarts cold water. Sauté onion, celery and garlic in butter over very low flame until onions just begin to turn yellow. Add beans, together with their water. Add 1 quart additional water, instant bouillon and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce flame and simmer slowly for 1 hour. Add molasses, sugar, brown gravy color and vinegar. Continue to simmer, with pot uncovered, over low flame, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching on bottom, for 1-1/2 hours or until liquid in pot has become as thick as a medium sauce. Chop apples on cutting board until pieces are no larger than beans. Add to beans. Heat about 10 minutes longer. Add salt and pepper to taste. Beans are best if prepared at least one day before serving. Reheat in double boiler or in covered casserole in moderate oven.

With these recipes as a beginning, the knowing host should have no trouble establishing his cocktail-party credo as: "Drink—eat—and be merry!"