Eggspo '68

Talented Egg Chefs who've mastered and outstripped such breakfast clichés as ham and eggs or bacon and eggs, who've graduated to eggs at night rather than in the morning, take pride in owing allegianced to no pat formula. Every man whose culinary hobby is egg dishes seems compelled to draw up his own rules, to use or to cast aside as he pleases any meat. poultry or sealood. any sauce, garnish or spice within arm's reach.

Egg dishes are especially apropos for bachelors entertaining before or after the game, the theater, the movies or the concert. All bachelors have an appetite for improvising or they wouldn't be bachelors. Like Louis XIII. whose historical claim to fame was that he could cook eggs in a hundred different ways. the man who can compose novel egg dishes will be able to keep both himself and his guests in fine fettle.

In this country. hard-boiled eggs are normally oval. In Japan, they're triangular, as in the recipe below that calls for poached eggs cooked in water. In the first dated cookery book, Dr Honesta Voluptate (Venice, 1475). a description is given of eggs poached in wine rather than in water, as they still are in the Burgundy region of France. As a cook, Alexandre Dumas. who wrote the Dictionary of Guisine. was as adventurous as some of the heroes in his novels. He must have encountered the Italian frittata, an omelet folded not into the conventional pocketbook shape but flat like a sumptuous pie, tender as an angel's breath, chock full of purple onions, spinach. potatoes. grated chees, fresh or dried herbs, chopped fillets of anchovies or anything else edible and suitable at the moment to the frittata chef ranging uninhibited through his larder. The frittata is cut into big pie-shaped wedges at the table: and though it takes no time to make, it's notorious for taking even less time to disppear after it's served. Talk about throwing rules to the wind, there's the French omelet panachée, in which a modest two- or three egg omelet, colored either red or green with the addition of tomatoes or spinach, is tucked inside a big six-egg omelet. the whole production surrounded by a rich ribbon of brown, white or tomato sauce.

Many an egg dish not always listed in the egg repertoire turns out to be wonderful grist for midnight feasting For instance, the great but dated food philosopher Brillat-Savarin is credited with a fondue. It contains Swiss cheese and is listed as a cheese dish in cheese cookbooks. It's voluptuously rich, and one can't imagine anything smoother coming out of a chafing dish. But when Brillat-Savarin's recipe is examined, it turns out to be not really a cheese dish so much as an egg dish: the weight of the eggs is three times that of the cheese. Unlike the standard Swiss-cheese fondue that bubbles on and on till the last molecule of cheese is wiped up with the last chunk of French bread, Savarin's fondue must be snatched off the flame as soon as the eggs are cooked. Here again, the egg dish lends itself to delicious, unending varitations. It may be spooned onto fried bread, split toasted brioche or tartlet shells, onto plain buttered toast or toast spread with ancliovy butter. It may be ladled over grilled thin ham slices, grilled Candaian bacon or crisp bacon slices, or over grilled tomatoes, fried eggplant or artichoke bottoms. It may be mixed with sautéed minced mushrooms. shallots, black or white truffles. It can be eaten ice cold the next day during the cocktail hour as a canapé spread on melba toast.

Another French dish, called pipérade, for some reason or another finds its way into the vegetable sections of cooking tomes. A pipérade is essentially a scrambled-egg dish; and for its lightness, it depends upon adding the eggs to the pan in a small quantity at a time, while beating constantly, until each new batch is scrambled. Generally, it's scented with garlic and peppers or pimientos. along with other vegetables, and is made fluffy with eggs: but the fluff turns out to be its delicious substance rather than its shadow.

Even quiches, such as quiche Lorraine, although rich with cream, flavored with bacon or cheese or crab meat. are really dependent on eggs for their personality. You can take away the bacon or cheese or crab meat and still have a quiche; you can't take away the eggs. In the land of the frane and the home of the quiche, the pastry shell in which the egg mixture is poured has straight sides and is called a flan. In this country, the rim of the dough, for greter convenience in baking and serving. is spread out just like a pie shell; the flan is flanged. The number of prepared pie shells ready for the oven that are now offered in food shops is increasing all the time. Many are unexpectedly tender and delicate in flavor. Quiche fillings may contain anything from cooked squid to snail to smoked turkey.

No man is a host unto himself. One of the best ways to make guests feel at home is to invite them to join you at the range. Egg cookery is perfect for playing this seemingly reverse-hospitality game. Do you need some cream for the sauce, someone to drain the spinach, to mince the onions, to make the toast snippets? Invite a congenial companion to share in the fun.

The flavors of both table wines and egg dishes are such stuff as dreams are made on. With almost all egg dishes. the most likely of all wines to serve is the driest of dry champagnes--the blanc de blancs of either France or California. If this seems like flying too high, then a French graves or a carefully chosen California pinot blanc, chilled but not biting cold, works beautifully. Another key to the problem is to think not of the eggs but of the garnish that goes with them. If, for instance. you were serving omelets with creamed-chicken hash, glasses of young Pouilly-Fuissé would be right on target at the table. With poached eggs in red wine, beaujolais would be very congenial. If the garnish were lamb kidneys or chicken livers in a rich brown sauce, beaujolais, again, or a Napa Valley rosé would cast a proper spell over the table. In some cases, you might pass up the wine entirely. If. for instance, in the wee hours of the morning, you were serving a platter of scrambled eggs with anchovies or grilled salt mackerel, a perfect libation would be glasses of ice-cold aquavit taken neat. Scandinavian style.

There are certain rules in cooking to which every chef must bow. When the recipe calls for two tablespoons of flour in a cup of medium sauce. You must use two and not four, or you'll face a minor disaster in you saucepan. But there are other options without end: You can substitute zucchini for spinach. yellow peppers for green, seafood for poultry, chieves for scallions, basil for tarragon, white wine for red and, in each case, you'll be creating rather than merely copying. The following dishes are desinged to egg you on to culinary heights.

[recipe_title]Brillat-savarin's Fondue[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]6 extra-large eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]1/1 lb. natural gruyère cheese or natural Swiss emmentaler cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. butter[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

For this preparation. be sure to use a chafing dish over simmering water or the top section of a double boiler--not the conventional fondue dish over a direct flame. Beat eggs until whites are no longer visible as whites. Force cheese through large holes of metal grater or cut into extremely small dice. Put butter, cheese and eggs in top part of chafing dish. Cook over barely simmering water, stirring constantly with spoon. until fondue is thickened but creamy. Add salt to taste and season generously with pepper. Remove from heat. Makes fine midnight collation with white wine or champagne.

[recipe_title]Spinach Fritata[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]6 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. package frozen leaf spinach, cooked[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup diced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup diced celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large clove garlic, very finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon dried basil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size boiled potatoes, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

Preheat broiler. Drain spinach well and chop coarsely. Heat oil in a saucepan, add onion, celery, garlic, basil and oregano and sauté over low flame until onion is yellow. Add spinach and potatoes and sauté only until all vegetables are heated through. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from fire. Beat eggs with 3 tablespoons cold water and parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Add vegetables to eggs. Heat butter in a 10-in. heavy iron pan or omelet pan. When butter is hot. pour egg mixture into pan. As egg cooks on bottom. lift sides from time to time to let uncooked eggs flow to bottom. When bottom is brown but top still uncooked. Avoid browning egg under broiler. Remove from broiler and invert frittata onto serving platter.

[recipe_title]Triangular Egg And Shrimp Salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. (cooked weight) boiled shrimps, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup water chestnuts, sliced thin[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sliced pimiento-stuffed olives[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced fresh chives[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt. pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]4 long strips pimiento. 1/4 in. wide[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup canned consommé madrilene. cold but not jelled[/recipe]

(concluded on page 108) Eggspo'68(continued from page 102)

Fold 4 sheets regular-size typewriter paper in half. fold in half again. Holding open ends to top and left. fold the first facing sheet diagonally to make a triangular pocket in front. Balance of paper behind pocket may be stapled to hold pocket in place. Place 4 narrow custard cups in a large pot. Place paper pockets in cups, point down. Break an egg into each pocket. Fill pot to rim of custard cups with boiling water. Cover pot with tight lid and boil 8 to 10 minutes or until eggs are firm. Remove eggs, still in paper, to refrigerator and chill. Cut shrimps crosswise into diagnonal slices about 1/2 in. thick. Combine shrimps with water chestnuts, olives, chives, mayonnaise and lemon juice. Toss thoroughly, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon shrimps onto 4 coquille shells or onto 4 lettuce cups placed on serving plates. Remove eggs from paper. Trim edges to make as symmetrical as possible. Place eggs top-side down on salad. Place a pimiento strip lengthwise on top of each egg. Spoon just enough madrilene on top to coat eggs lightly. Place in refrigerator until madrilene is jelled.

[recipe_title]Pipérade with ham[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]8 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]4 round slices ham. 1/4 in. thick, 4 to 5 ins. in diameter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large fresh beefsteak tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large sweet red. green or yellow pepper, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large cloves garlic, very finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]8 slices French bread, fried in oil or butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley[/recipe]

Grill or Iry ham. Set aside; keep warm. Lower tomatoes into boiling water for 20 seconds. Hold tomatoes under cold running water and remove skins with paring knife. Remove stem ends with paring knife. Remove stem ends and cut tomates into quarters: press to remove seeds and jucie. Cut tomatoes into small dice. Heat salad oil in heavy sacucepan. Add tomatoes, diced pepper, garlic and sugar. Sauté slowly, stirring frequently, until juice in pan has evaporated. Add butter. When butter melts, remove pan from fire. Beat eggs in mixing bowl. Add 1/4 cup cold water (not milk or cream) to eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Add a small quantity of beaten egg (equivalent to about 1 egg) to the pan containing the tomatoes and pepper. Return pan to low flame and stir until egg is scrambled. Continue to add eggs in the manner, stirring constantly, until all are scrambled. Place fried bread on platter or serving plates. Place ham on bread, spoon eggs on top and sprinkle with parsley.

[recipe_title]Poached eggs in red wine[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]1 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]2-1/2 cups dry red wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup very finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large cloves garlic, very finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon dried thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1 packet instant bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter at room temperature[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices Frech bread, fried in olive oil or toasted[/recipe]

In a shallow saucepan about 8 or 9 ins. wide, simmer wine, onion, garlic, bay leaf, thyme and bouillon powder for about 5 minutes. Open each egg into a sacuer (to make sure yolk is intact) and lower eggs one by one into pan. Cover pan with tight lid and simmer 3 to 3-1/2 minutes, or until eggs are pached. Remove eggs from pan with slotted spoon or skimmer and keep them warm unitl serving time by placing them in a pan or bowl of very hot water (not over flame). Strain red-wine mixture and return to saucepan. Mix butter and flour to a smooth paste. Bring wine to a boil, add butter-flour mixture and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Season with salt and pepper. Drain eggs and place on Frech bread on serving plates. If sauce seems too thick to flow easily. it may be thinned with additional wine. Pour sauce over eggs. If desired, they may be served with grille ham, bacon or small link sausages. (The first time you try this dish, there may be a natural delay between steps; the second or third time, the routine will be smooth and brief.)

[recipe_title]Breaded Eggs, Curry Sauge[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]8 hard-boiled eggs, shelled[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt. pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 raw egg[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Flour[/recipe]

[recipe]Bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion, very finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon curry powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/8 teaspoon Tabasco[/recipe]

Cut hard-boiled eggs in half lengthwise. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Beat raw egg with I tablespoon salad oil and lemon juice. Dip hard egg halves in flour, coating thoroughly. Dip in raw-egg mixture, then in bread crumbs. Pat crumbs onto eggs to coat thorougly.1 Melt butter in saucepan over very low flame. Add onion and curry powder and sauté until onion is soft. Stir in 3 tablespoons flour. Slowly add hot milk, stirring constantly. Simmer slowly 5 minutes. Add Chartreuse and Tabasco and stir well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Keep sacuce warm until serving time or reheat just before serving. In a large skillet, heat 1/1 in. oil until it begins to smoke. Fry breaded eggs, turning to brown on each side. Pour sauce onto serving plates. Place 4 egg halves on each plate. Serve with rice and chilled chutney, passed separately at table.

[recipe_title]Canadian Bacon and Egg Quiche[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]9-in. prepared piecrust, unbaked[/recipe]

[recipe]1 hard-boiled egg[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. sliced Canadian bacon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ols. cheddar cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]1 raw egg[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon white pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Paprika[/recipe]

Preheat oven at 400. Thaw piecrust. if frozen. Pierce sides and bottom of curst with fork at 1-in. intervals. Bake shell 15 to 20 minutes or until light brown. If dough "bubbles" at any spot during baking (check is several times). pierce the bubble with a fork. Remove crust from oven. While dough is baking, cut hard-boiled egg into 1/4-in. dice. Cut bacon into 1/4-in. squares. Force cheese through large holes of metal grater. Beat cream. egg yolks, whole egg. salt and pepper. Strain into top of double boiler. Cook over simmering water, stirring frequently, especially in corners of pan, until mixture coats the back of the spoon. Put diced egg, bacon and cheese into pie shell. Pour egg-cream mixture into pie shell. Sprinkle with paprika. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until top of quiche feels firm when lightly touched with fingers. Serve warm. If quiche is made beforechand, it may be reheated in a slow oven just before serving. Quiche may be cut into 12 portions as an hors d'oeuvre rather than a supper item.

There's an ancient and somewhat scurrilous gag line to the effect that all Romanian recipes begin with "Steal two eggs." We recommend no such drastic measures. But with eggs as your basic ingredient and the preceding recipes as springboards for your imagination, you'll be able to steal the culinary show.