Chili Weather

for an animated camp-in, serve your guests the southwestern fun food that says "i'm hot stuff and hearty and guaranteed to win a warm reception"

Just about this time each year--when the flames of the winter fireplace have been extinguished and the summer barbecue is still in the offing--the knowledgeable host often adds a glow to a party with that sizzling crater known as the chili bowl. As a host, you can expect newcomers to a chili party to feel some distinct shock waves, like Becky Sharp in Thackeray's Vanity Fair, who gasped after tasting chili, thinking it "was something cool as its name imported"; but they'll return to the zesty mahogany-colored chili time after time, for its rich sock-it-to-me flavor. When people say "chili," they usually mean chili con carne, or chili with beef. Its name is Mexican, but its birthplace is most often attributed to the sprawling reaches of Texas. In the wide-open spaces that make up chilidom, you'll find, besides chili con carne, chili con queso (with cheese) or chili con anything you please. (Texas is the home of the Chili Appreciation Society International, which sponsored the World Chili Cookoff late last year. The hotly contested chilympiad ended in a draw.)

Chilies are the curries of the Americas. Like curries, they walk hand in hand with such spices as oregano and cumin, whose aggressive flavors automatically qualify them as alleged aphrodisiacs. But the star attraction is the native American chili pepper. As early as 1493, the newly discovered pepper pods were reported by Peter Martyr to be more powerful than the East Indian pepper berries for which Columbus originally sailed. The native chili (chile in Spanish) from the new continent turned out to be of a pepper family altogether different from the one that is ground and sprinkled from the pepper mill. Spanish explorers fighting their way through South America learned about its penetrating pungency the hard way. Natives simply built numerous fires in the path of the invaders and at the proper instant threw chili pods into the flames, raising a smoke screen of burning fumes that stopped the conquistadors, crying and sneezing, in their tracks. This historical note isn't to suggest that the ability to build up mere burning power alone will make you a sophisticated chilicrat. Actually, a fine dish of chili is a pepper polyphony containing not only dried chili powder but fresh chili pepper, dried cayenne pepper, mild fresh bell pepper, freshly ground black pepper, as well as sweet Hungarian paprika. But the horses of fire must have something to carry into the whirlwind; and, in the case of chili con carne, the chariot is filled with beef and beans.

The carne should be a sturdy, lean cut such as beef rump or round. Although the meat is often ground fine like hamburger, chili connoisseurs prefer the meat put through the coarse plate of the meat grinder, so that distinct tiny chunks emerge, looking like meat from a chopping blade. (In Texas, the grinder plate with large holes is known as the chili plate.) There's a second version in which the meat is cut by hand into cubes from 1/2 to 1 in. thick. They shrink later as the meat simmers. During the first step in chili building, the meat should be lightly sauteed. Here again, there are two rival camps--those who saute the meat in melted beef suet and those who saute it in olive oil. Disciples of beef suet are careful to remove the crisp pieces that remain after the fat melts. Those who have olive oil running in their veins will use only the most aristocratic of oils for chili con carne.

Chili powder is a conglomerate in a jar, consisting in its simple form of dried ground chili pepper, oregano, cumin, garlic and salt. Other blends, with the same starting line-up, are merged with coriander, allspice and cloves. Some chili powders are even graced with a sprinkling of bitter chocolate. But most chili masters look upon chili powder as a traditional artist looks upon a tube of paint--as just a beginning. To put something more than a dehydrated tiger in their tank, they add fresh onion, fresh garlic and fresh chili pepper, so that the crater really begins to bubble. Every host should make due allowances for the capacity of the fire-eaters at his party. If he knows there are timorous palates in the crowd, he'll subdue the potency of the chili pot and provide supplementary bottles of crushed dried pepper or Tabasco sauce for the braver ones.

Your best bet for finding fresh chili peppers is a vegetable stall in a Spanish or Italian neighborhood. Fresh chili peppers--some are red, some green--should be skinned before going into the chili pot. Boiling them for a half to three quarters of an hour will loosen the thin sheath. Another technique is to wrap them in aluminum foil, place them in a hot oven for about a half hour and then, with a towel or a paring knife, rub off or peel the skin. The little pods should then be split, the stems cut off and the seeds and veins removed with a paring knife. If fresh chili peppers aren't available, dried hot red peppers may be used--the familiar ones, strung in long braids, that proudly adorn adobe homes in the Southwest. You may crush them by hand or in a mortar, or buy the redpepper flakes that include seeds.

One of the best ways of keeping the chili buffs at bay until the proper moment of truth is to bring forth a shakerful of margaritas. The smoothly finished tequila now coming to the States has gradually made the margarita a modern cocktail classic. For drinkers north of the Rio Grande, follow this prescription: Pour 1 1/2 ozs. tequila, 3/4 oz. fresh lemon or lime juice and 1/2 oz. triple sec into a cocktail shaker. Add more than the normal amount of ice and shake with abandon. Pour into an oversize cocktail glass that is both prechilled and saltrimmed. The salt on the rim shouldn't be so thickly encrusted that it overpowers the drink. The best procedure is to dip the rim of the prechilled glass into fruit juice to a depth of about 1/4 in. and then sprinkle the rim with salt from a salt shaker, rather than immerse the glass into a dish of salt, as usually recommended. When pouring the margarita, be sure to pour into the center of the glass, to keep the salt rim intact.

Since the heat of the chili demands a quenching coolant, a chili party almost invariably becomes a beer party. The beer must be ice cold; that is, colder than the usual 38°--40° F. The brew, whether from bottle, can or dispenser, should flow copiously.

While the chili itself should be blazing hot, the rest of the menu shouldn't add fuel to the fire. Any guest with a margarita in one hand will appreciate a canapé of mild smoked sturgeon on chive butter or Nova Scotia salmon on parsley butter in the other. A smooth cold avocado soup and a dessert of fresh fruit chunks beneath a honey cream sauce will help everybody keep his cool before and after the chili.

Nothing sends a Texan on the warpath as fast as somebody else's recipe for chili. Since no two chilies are ever alike, it follows that chili men constantly lock horns over whether a proper chili should contain tomatoes, over how it should be thickened, over the cut of meat or the kind of beans or the brand of chili powder. Knowing full well that the eyes of Texas are upon us, we bravely offer our version of chili con carne, together with citations of some of the many-sided chili classics now flourishing. All spices may be increased or decreased to taste; the quantities given are hot, but not hellishly so.

[recipe_title]Chili Con Carne[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]2 1/2 lbs. beef round or rump, trimmed of fat, coarsely ground[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup pinto beans[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup very finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large green or red sweet pepper, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons chili powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon ground cumin[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]2 fresh chili pods, skinned, minced very fine[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 quarts beef or chicken stock[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cracker crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt[/recipe]

Soak beans overnight. Cook in salted water, following directions on package, about 1 hour or until tender. Heat olive oil over low flame in a large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven. Add meat, stirring frequently until it loses red color. Add onion, garlic, sweet pepper, bay leaf, oregano, chili powder, cumin, cayenne pepper, black pepper, paprika and chili pods. Stir well. Cover pan and sauté about 5 minutes. Stir in flour, blending well. Add stock and bring to a boil. Reduce flame and simmer 1 hour. Stir in sugar and cracker crumbs. Drain beans and add, without their juice, to the pan. Simmer about 10 minutes longer. Add salt if necessary. Serve with freshly opened or toasted oyster crackers. May be served with plain rice or pasta as an accompaniment.

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Chunk Beef Chili. Cut beef into cubes, 1/2 to 1 in. thick. Increase cooking time if necessary and simmer until beef is tender. Beef may also be cut chip size, Oriental style, as served in pepper steak.

Chili with Tomatoes. A 1-lb. can of tomatoes, coarsely chopped, may be added, together with the juice in the can. Decrease stock to 1 quart.

Chili with Red Wine. 1 to 2 cups dry red wine may be added; decrease quantity of stock accordingly. The chili powder still pulls the leading strings, but the cool wine flavor comes out distinctly.

Chili with Kidney Beans. Bachelor chefs pressed for time find canned red kidney beans, drained of their juice, a satisfactory timesaver.

Chili with Pork. Aficionados of chili who like their spices herculean often prefer a mild meat flavor. Instead of the 2 1/2 lbs. beef, use 1 1/2 lbs. beef and 1 lb. lean pork.

Chili with Chili Sauce. Chili powder is one spice not used in bottled chili sauce. Many people who dote on its sweet tart flavor like to blend it with chili con carne. Use anywhere from 1/4 to 1 cup.

[recipe_title]Cold Avocado Soup[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

[recipe]2 large ripe avocados[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups cold chicken broth, fresh or canned[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups milk[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, white pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size scallions[/recipe]

Peel avocados and dice enough to fill 2 measuring cups, firmly packed. There should be some avocado left to slice for garnishing later. Sprinkle this with lemon juice, to keep it from discoloring, and chill in refrigerator until serving time. Combine diced avocado with chicken broth, milk, light cream and sour cream for puréeing in blender. Do the job in two batches if necessary. Blend at low to medium speed until well puréed. Pour into bowl. Season to taste with salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate. Chill well. Soup must be ice cold when served. Cut scallions (white and firm part of green) into thinnest possible slices. At serving time, pour soup into prechilled cups. Slice remaining avocado and place a few slices on soup. Sprinkle with scallions. Minced fresh chives may be used in place of scallions if desired.

[recipe_title]Chili Con Queso[/recipe_title]

(Six to eight appetizer portions)

[recipe]1/2 lb. sharp cheddar cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup very finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon chili powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon ground cumin[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. can tomatoes with green chilies[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs, well beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt[/recipe]

Force the cheese through the large holes of a metal grater. Melt butter in the top part of a double boiler over simmering water. Add onion, garlic, chili powder and cumin; stir well. Heat for about 10 minutes. Add cheese, cream and tomatoes. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until cheese has melted. Slowly stir eggs into mixture. Cook until thick. Add salt if necessary. For serving at a buffet, place chili con queso in a chafing dish over barely simmering water. (Do not heat in a fondue pot over a direct flame.) Serve with chunks of French bread, fondue style, or with crisp cornflavored chips.

[recipe_title]Shrimp Chili[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]3 lbs. medium-size shrimps in shell[/recipe]

[recipe]3 8-oz. bottles clam broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup very finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 teaspoons very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup minced fresh parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons chili powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 teaspoons paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon cumin[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, freshly ground black pepper[/recipe]

Pour clam broth and 3 cups water into a large saucepan or pot. Add shrimps, diced onion, celery and 1 teaspoon salt. Slowly bring to a boil. When liquid boils, remove pan from flame. Let shrimps remain in pan 10 minutes. With a slotted spoon or skimmer, lift shrimps from pan, leaving vegetables and liquid. As soon as shrimps are cool enough to handle, peel them and remove back veins. Return shrimp shells to pan and simmer until stock is reduced to approximately 3 cups. Strain stock; if necessary, add water to make 3 cups liquid. In another saucepan, melt butter and sauté minced onion, garlic, parsley and bay leaf until onion is yellow. Stir in chili powder, paprika, cumin and oregano; stir in flour. Slowly add strained shrimp stock. Bring to a boil; reduce flame and simmer 10 minutes. Season with salt and a generous dash of black pepper. Add shrimps and simmer until they are heated through. Serve with rice.

[recipe_title]Chicken Chili[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

[recipe]2 2 1/2-lb. broilers, cut up as for stewing[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil or cooking oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup very finely minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 quarts chicken broth, fresh or canned[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons instantized flour[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons chili powder[/recipe]

[recipe]2 fresh chili peppers, peeled, very finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon powdered cumin[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]2 2-oz. jars sliced pimientos[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

Heat oil in a large stewpot or Dutch oven over a low flame. Sauté chicken, a few pieces at a time, until chicken is light brown. Do not overcrowd pot. Remove each batch of chicken after it has been browned. Add onion and garlic to pot and sauté until onion is light brown. Add oil if necessary. In an electric blender, blend chicken broth, flour, chili powder, chili peppers, paprika, cumin and cayenne pepper until smooth. This should be done in several batches. Return chicken to pot and add blended liquid. Bring to a boil; reduce flame and simmer about 1 hour or until chicken is very tender. Remove about a cup of gravy from pot and spin in blender with yogurt until smooth. Return to pot. Add pimientos; add salt and monosodium glutamate to taste.

[recipe_title]Fresh Fruit Compote, Honey Cream Sauce[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

[recipe]1 1/2 quarts fresh or cooked fruit, such as pineapples, pears, papayas, bananas, etc., in spoon-size chunks[/recipe]

[recipe]4 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup honey[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon vanilla extract[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. extra-large, toasted, salted pecans[/recipe]

Fruit should be ice cold for serving. Fruit such as pears and bananas should be dipped into orange or pineapple juice, to keep it from discoloring, but should not be immersed in juice for serving. Beat egg yolks until light in the top part of a double boiler. Slowly stir in sugar, honey and flour. Stir in milk and light cream. Place over simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until thick. Remove from flame and stir in vanilla. Chill in refrigerator. Whip heavy cream until thick. Fold into sauce just before serving. Spoon fruit into serving dishes, spoon sauce on top and sprinkle with pecans.

No matter what permutation of chili strikes your fancy, it should always be served in an atmosphere of casual camaraderie. Even the most reserved of guests will thaw out when exposed to the warm glow emanating from the convivial chili pot.