Paella y Sangria

Certain Food-and-Drink Combinations--such as cheese and port, curry and beer or caviar and champagne--have never become clichés, because their ensemble chords twang so beautifully that you can barely think of the one without the other. In the summertime, the most delicious of the Damon and Pythias partnerships is paella and sangria, the rice casserole and the wine punch, both imports from Spain.

Many a Spanish professional chef exuberantly hails the fact that his paella is never the same twice. Among the uninhibited recipes, you'll find paellas with mussels, tiny artichoke hearts and spicy garlic sausages; others with shrimps, chicken livers, whiting and stuffed eggplant; yet others with ham, chicken, quail and squid. On the French side of the Spanish border, refugees are even more unrestrained, offering paellas studded with veal, partridge, eggs, mushrooms, salt pork and tongue and, as though these weren't enough, a rare filet mignon or two tossed atop the whole voluptuous pile.

Undoubtedly, the first paellas were cooked up by peasants who, having rice and little else to eat, gathered into the pan scraps of pork, bits of onion, a wild mushroom or two and any stray pimiento that could be obtained. But today's paella masters--individualists to their core--follow a more advanced guideline: Every morsel of flesh or fish that goes into the pan must be supremely delicious in its own right. In Valencia, you may find your paella chock-full of fresh mountain snails and baby eels thinner than your finger. But if you live in an area where fresh snails and eels are hard to come by, you shouldn't be content to settle for such carbon copies as frozen eels or canned snails. Certainly, in this country, it makes sense to include in the paella the tenderest of baby broiler breasts and the tightest hard-shell clams from the nearest shore. Giant Spanish onions should be used, for their sweet and mellow flavor. Your garlic, even though you may not buy it by the yard, as they do in Spain, should be stony hard and fresh, spurting juice the first moment the point of your knife penetrates it. Your olive oil must be virgin or first pressing; it may come from France or Italy, but if you're going to strive for authenticity, you'll want to use the best Spanish olive oil obtainable.

You can make paella in a huge restaurant-size skillet or saucepan or in a big Dutch oven. But the particular host insists on the authentic Spanish paella pan, sometimes called a paellera--a shallow utensil at least 14 inches across, with two short handles on opposite sides. Don't buy one made of tin; it will tend to scorch the food quickly. The heavier aluminum pan is more practical and is now available in American gourmet kitchen shops. Incidentally, it has many other uses: for browning or glazing fish or eggs or crepes at a party buffet, for making king-size omelets at party brunches or for serving huge summer seafood salads.

There's no lid on a paella pan, and this is the key to perfection. From the cook's viewpoint, paella is a horizontal rather than a vertical creation. Unlike a deep stewpot built for long slow simmering and the smallest possible evaporation, the paella pan permits the cook to work quickly in his wide shallow crater, where heat hits every ingredient almost instantly. On a small studio stove, two flames may be necessary to keep the I paella simmering.

The first cooking step is to generously coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. It may seem like a lot of oil, but in the finished paella, with its wealth of solid food, there will be no hint of an oil-laden dish. Meat and poultry are quickly sautéed and then set aside. Chopped onion, garlic and rice spring into action only long enough to make the rice opalescent when stock is poured into the pan. Meat, poultry and seafood are plunged into the bubbling lake while the rice slowly swallows the liquid--and the medley in full view reaches its sumptuous finale. When the paella is done, the rice should be half dry, half dewy, neither desiccated like Chinese rice nor buttery-wet like risollo alla milanese. The entire performance moves in such double time that occasionally the rice will become tender while a small pool of liquid still lingers in the pan. If this occurs, the paella should be gently stirred and allowed to rest over a low flame until the rice soaks up the remaining stock. There are partisans who insist that the best paella is one that is made one day and reheated the next; it may violate the purist's code, but the rich marriage of flavors, after a day's living together, is not only consummated but sanctified.

The ingredient that gives rice its luscious lemon color and its herb flavor, both faintly bitter and sweet, is saffron--current American price, $407 per pound, a highflying figure until you realize that saffron is simply another word for the dried stigmas of the flower known as the Crocus sativus and that it takes approximately 225,000 of these individually hand-picked stigmas to make a single pound of saffron. But a sixth of an ounce of saffron threads will provide enough of the golden stigmas to flavor at least four paellas. The unpulverized saffron in Spain is usually heated in the oven for a few minutes to release its aroma and then pounded in a mortar before it goes into the paella. Saffron powder, a more convenient form and one that can be more accurately measured, is available on most gourmet spice shelves.

Like the matador and his bull, every paella must have its sangria. A good sangria goes down so easily and in such healthy quantities that even the most fastidious château-wine specialists fine themselves taking long draughts rather than sips. Spanish hosts like to marinate the wine and the fruit peel at least an hour before serving, to give the sangria its fruit-flavored overtones. But its basic wine taste shouldn't be awash with noticeable quantities of other fruit juices; even the brandy and liqueurs that sometimes go into sangrias must not be overpoured. The best Spanish red wine is rioja, a frequently heavy-bodied red table wine; but the amount of rioja that flows into the States is rather limited. Actually, any good dry red wine with a light fruity flavor--a beaujolais, a California gamay or a gamay beaujolais--will help make a superb sangria. White sangria made with dry white wine seems like a contradiction in terms, since the word sangria means bloodletting. But white sangria appears frequently at parties, and it's beautiful for recharging the flamenco spirit with each swallow.

Speaking of words, etymologists believe that the Spanish word paella was derived from the Latin patella, a platter in which food offerings were once presented to the gods. We prefer the Spaniards' own explanation, which tells how all the effort is really directed toward a certain doncella (Spanish for maiden) and how the finished dish is therefore pa-ella--for her.

The word for the following paella and sangria recipes is delicious. Each will serve six to eight.

[recipe_title]Playboy Paella[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1-1/2 lbs. pork loin, center cut[/recipe]

[recipe]2 chicken breasts (4 halves), boneless and skinless[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. chorizo sausage, 1/4-in. slices[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. sliced leg of veal, pounded thin, as for scaloppine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. chicken livers[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. bay scallops[/recipe]

[recipe]Olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 sweet red peppersor canned pimientos[/recipe]

[recipe]2 green peppers[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. fresh mushrooms, sliced thin[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. raw shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. fresh peas or 10-oz. package frozen peas[/recipe]

[recipe]3 large cloves garlic, minced extremely fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion, minced extremely fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon saffron powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups long-grain rice[/recipe]

[recipe]4-5 cups chicken broth, canned or fresh[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Remove bone and fat from pork. Cut into 1-in. squares, 1/4 in. thick. Cut chicken crosswise into 1-in. chunks. Cut veal into 1-in. squares. Cut chicken-liver pairs into halves. Cut peppers into 1/2-in. squares, discarding stem ends, seeds and membranes. Using a scissors, cut shrimp shells through back and underside, leaving shells on shrimps and tails intact. Shell fresh peas. Heat 1/2 cup oil in paella pan. Sauté pork until deep brown; remove from pan. Sauté chicken, chorizo, veal and chicken livers until light brown; remove from pan. Sauté peppers and mushrooms until just barely tender, adding more oil to pan if necessary; remove from pan. Wash and dry pan. Add 1/2 cup oil and heat over low flame. Add garlic, onion, saffron, oregano and rice (continued on page 214) Paella y Sangria (continued from page 140) and stir well. Sauté, stirring constantly, 5 minutes. Add chicken broth, pork, chicken, chorizo, veal, chicken livers, scallops, peppers, mushrooms and shrimps. Bring liquid to a boil. If chicken broth is unseasoned, add 1 to 2 teaspoons salt. Reduce heat; simmer 10 minutes. Add peas and simmer 15 to 25 minutes longer, stirring gently but as little as possible, to keep ingredients from sticking to pan bottom. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

[recipe_title]Meatball Paella[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/2 1b. (cooked weight) boiled, shelled shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 1b. lean chopped beef[/recipe]

[recipe]2 slices stale white bread[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion, very finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon ground cumin[/recipe]

[recipe]3 chicken breasts (6 halves), boneless and skinless[/recipe]

[recipe]11/2 lbs. lobster tails, thawed if frozen[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large green peppers[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size zucchini[/recipe]

[recipe]Olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3 large cloves garlic, minced extremely fine[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can plum tomatoes, drained, chopped fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups long-grain rice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon saffron powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]4-5 cups chicken broth, canned or fresh[/recipe]

[recipe]6-oz. can pitted black olives, drained[/recipe]

Soak bread in cold water a few minutes, then press gently to remove excess water. Put through meat chopper, using fine blade, the shrimps, previously chopped beef, bread and 1/4 cup minced onion. Add egg, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, oregano and cumin. Mix well. Shape into balls about 3/4 in. thick, keeping hands wet to shape meat easily. Set aside in refrigerator until needed. Cut chicken and lobster crosswise into 1-in. chunks. Cut green peppers lengthwise into eighths. Remove and discard stem ends, seeds and membranes. Peel zucchini and cut in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1-in. chunks. Heat 1/2 cup oil in paella pan. Sauté meatballs until brown; remove from pan. Sauté chicken until light, streaky brown; remove from pan. Sauté green peppers and zucchini, using more oil if necessary, until just barely tender; remove from pan. Wash and dry pan. Add 1/2 cup oil. Heat for a minute or two over low flame. Add remaining onion, garlic, tomatoes, rice, saffron and paprika and stir well. Sauté, stirring constantly, 5 minutes. Add lemon juice, chicken broth, meatballs, chicken, lobster, green peppers, zucchini and olives. If chicken broth is unseasoned, add 1 to 2 teaspoons salt. Bring liquid to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 20 to 30 minutes, stirring gently from time to time. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

[recipe_title]All-Seafood Paella[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 live northern lobsters, 11/2 lbs. each[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. raw shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]2 dozen unopened littleneck clams[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. halibut steak[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1b.squid[/recipe]

[recipe]11/2 lbs. fresh asparagus[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 green pepper, large dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 sweet red pepper, large dice[/recipe]

[recipe]3 large cloves garlic, minced extremely fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Spanish onion, minced extremely fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon saffron powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup finely minced fresh parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons finely minced culantro[/recipe]

[recipe]3 large tomatoes, peeled, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups long-grain rice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]4-5 cups clam broth, fresh or bottled Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Cut live lobsters in half (or have seafood dealer do this for you, if lobsters are to be used at once). Remove sac in head; crack claws; cut each lobster crosswise into 3 chunks. Using scissors, cut shrimp shells through back and underside, leaving shells on shrimps and tails intact. Scrub clams well. Cut halibut into 3/4-in. chunks, discarding bone. Have squid cleaned by fish dealer. Boil about 1/2 hour or until tender. Drain and cut crosswise into 1/4-in. slices. Peel asparagus with vegetable peeler. Discard hard ends; cut crosswise into 1-in. pieces. Boil until just tender, then drain. Heat oil in paella pan over low flame. Sauté peppers until just barely tender. Add garlic, onion, saffron, parsley, culantro, tomatoes, rice and bay leaf. Sauté 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add clam broth and bring to a boil. Reduce flame so that liquid merely simmers. If clam broth is unseasoned, add 1 teaspoon salt. Place in pan the lobster pieces, shrimps, clams, halibut, squid and asparagus. Simmer slowly, tending pan frequently, checking pan bottom to avoid scorching. Cook until rice is tender and has absorbed all liquid. Season with salt and pepper just before serving.

[recipe_title]Sangria[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 fifth light dry red wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 whole orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 ripe Elberta peach, peeled and sliced[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 slices lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]11/2 ozs. cognac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. triple sec[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. maraschino[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon or more sugar to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. iced club soda[/drinkRecipe]

Cut entire peel of orange in a single strip, beginning at stem end and continuing until spiral reaches bottom of fruit. White part should be cut along with outer peel, so that orange fruit is exposed. Leave peel attached to orange bottom, so that fruit may be suspended in pitcher. Pour wine into glass pitcher. Add peach, lemon, cognac, triple sec, maraschino and sugar. Stir to dissolve sugar. Carefully place orange in pitcher, fastening top end of peel over rim. Let mixture marinate at room temperature at least 1 hour. Add soda and 1 tray of ice cubes to pitcher. Stir.

[recipe_title]White Sangria[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 fifth dry white wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 whole orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 slices lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 slices lime[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. cognac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 tablespoons sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 piece stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]8 large strawberries, stems removed, halved[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. iced club soda[/drinkRecipe]

Cut entire peel of orange, following procedure in above recipe. Pour wine into glass pitcher. Add lemon, lime, cognac, sugar, cinnamon and strawberries. Stir to dissolve sugar. Carefully place orange in pitcher, fastening top end of peel over rim. Let mixture marinate at room temperature at least 1 hour. Add soda and 1 tray of ice cubes to pitcher. Stir.

With paella and sangria gracing his groaning board, the host is able to offer a feast that echoes the elegant simplicity of its Iberian birthplace. All that remains is to reap a harvest of bravos.