Back to Campus

"Up Against the Wall!" some collegians cry, while others prefer football, pizza and fraternity parties. But even the most rah-rah undergrads are demanding more say in campus affairs, proving that student power is definitely a force to be reckoned with. Although specific goals and tactics may differ, undergraduate sentiment and rhetoric are dominated by an insistence on freedom of expression and the right to do one's thing.

This new activist attitude also extends to the kind of apparel the male student body prefers to wear. From Berkeley to Boston U, matriculants are returning to the campuses of their choice decked out in conservative, upbeat and offbeat attire that reflects both local and national sartorial trends. To accurately chronicle the similarities and differences of fashion opinions, we've conducted our annual photo coverage of schools in five different geographic regions—the East, the South, the Midwest, the Southwest and the West Coast—and interviewed students concerning their preferences in clothing. For openers, let's look Eastward to the hallowed halls of the Northeastern and Middle Atlantic campuses.

The East: We're happy to report that undergrads in this section of the country have broadened their fashion outlook and no longer exclusively don traditional Ivy wear. Stu Zuckeriman, a senior at Dartmouth majoring in psychology and the president of the campus radio station, WDCR, comments, "On campus, fashions are pretty hang-loose. Some Ivy styles are still being worn, of course, but there are plenty of bell-bottoms, wide ties and spread-collar shirts around, and many guys also go for unusual odds and ends, such as an old opera cape that they discovered at the local Salvation Army store."

Suits: The majority of Easterners have on hand at least one three-piece dark-toned sack suit to be worn to weddings, wakes or during fraternity rush week. On other occasions, two-button single-breasteds, in subdued plaids and solid shades, and six- and eight-button double-breasteds with wider lapels, deep center vents and additional suppression at the waist put in a welcome appearance and brighten the fashion scene.

Sports jackets: The ubiquitous navy-blue blazer, both single- and double-breasted, is a uniform favorite worn by the majority of Eastern undergrads. Other more colorful choices include shaped bold-plaid jackets with peaked lapels and tweedy Norfolk models with a full or half belt.

Slacks: From Maine to Delaware, the big swing is to bell-bottoms, in widths that range from a slight 17-inch flare to an elephantine 26 inches. Look for Donegal tweeds that have extra-high three-inch cuffs, classic tartans, denims, striped herringbones and printed corduroys. On some campuses, Army-Navy surplus-store bell-bottoms or khaki pants are worn with a buttondown shirt and moccasins or sneakers, both in the classroom and on a casual date.

Shirts: Undergrads who have styled up their wardrobes with shaped suits also select bold-colored shirts that feature medium- and wide-spread collars. The buttondown is still being worn for most occasions by a small band of ultraconservative undergrads who staunchly resist any fashion change. More adventuresome scholars, however, sport billowy-sleeved body shirts in such luxurious fabrics as voile and crepe when attending off-campus parties.

Sweaters: A hefty supply of V-necks, crews, turtles, (continued on page 172)Back to Campus(continued from page 169) mock turtles and cardigans is a must. At Williams, for example, bulky mohair ski sweaters earn top sartorial grades. Easterners should also expect to see a revival of wool Argyle V- and crew-neck pullovers woven in classic patterns.

Outerwear: You"ll want to prepare early for the cold New England winter that's sure to come: Arm yourself with outerwearables in both light- and heavyweight fabrics. Early in the fall, fringed buckskin jackets, poplin windbreakers, checked wool lumberjack shirts, Mexican serapes and Army fatigue jackets are favored by both SDSers and the type of studious math major who never appears in public without a slide rule strapped to his belt. When the temperature starts to drop, peacoats, pile-lined trench coats, hip-length polished-leather jackets and full-length polished-leather coats in both single- and double-breasted styles bloom on campus. For dressy occasions, single-breasted chesterfields and double-breasted camel's-hair polo models are favored. Raccoon and other fur-out coats are being worn—often topped with a fur astrakhan.

Shoes: Boots in both mid-calf and jodhpur heights are an Easterner's favored footwear, along with monk-strap bluchers, sneakers, penny loafers and wing-tip brogues.

The South: In Dixie, there are two schools of fashion thought: A minority of students are exponents of decidedly avant-garb; the rest take the line of least resistance and stick to traditional tailoring. Mike Russell, a junior at the University of Virginia, reports, "This is a coat-and-tie school. Eighty-five percent of the guys wear sports jackets or blazers and a tie to class. Incidentally, I'm what you might call a sartorial dropout, because I wear to class whatever I feel like putting on in the morning—usually a pair of Levis, an old shirt and a pair of loafers."

Suits: One dark three-piece pin stripe in a medium-weight worsted or flannel and a lightweight single-breasted two-button glen plaid should suffice for occasions when a suit and tie are the order of the day—or night. However, there's also a strong indication that more and more Southern gentlemen are forsaking the single-breasted ranks and switching to the double-breasted coat featuring a suppressed waist, slanted pockets and deep center vent.

Sports jackets: Bold plaids and subtle stripes in two- and three-button natural-shoulder models are the norm on most Southern campuses. On casual dates or when T. G. I. F.ing, navy-blue single- and double-breasted blazers, too, are combined with a white or blue shirt and a silk scarf knotted apache style at the side of the neck. However, despite the fact that Dixie is still a bastion of fashion traditionalism, an increasing number of with-it Southerners are being turned on by more contemporary creations, such as those worn by the Rollins students pictured on page 165.

Slacks: Poplins, denims and corduroys in both solid colors and small plaids are often combined with a V- or crew-neck sweater for a collegiate look that's both classic and comfortable. Bell-bottoms combined with a wide belt are rapidly gaining acceptance—especially for weekend dates.

Shirts: While buttondowns and tabs still have the South conservatively buttoned up, shirts with modified-spread and long-pointed collars are making fresh fashion inroads—and are often worn with a three-to-four-inch-wide tie in stripes or paisley patterns. French-cuff styles in powder blue or deep blue also walk away with exceptionally high fashion marks on many campuses.

Sweaters: V-necks, crews, turtles and cardigans are traditional favorites. (If you've gone way South for the academic year, plan to spend more money on pullovers in Shetland, alpaca and synthetic blends and less on heavyweight coats.) Also expect to see sleeveless knit Argyles in both pullover and button-front styles worn on most campuses across the South.

Outerwear: Whether you've chosen the University of Virginia or Florida State, you'll need some type of outer apparel, such as a lined windbreaker, for those occasional cool fall mornings and downright cold winter afternoons. When walking in the wet, we strongly advise you to buckle up an English-type trench coat that extends to stylish lengths, thus providing maximum protection from the elements. But for less inclement days, a buckskin frontier shirt worn with a pair of rough-tweed slacks should serve you comfortably.

Shoes: Take along a pair of cowboy boots and both penny and tassel loafers. For dressy affairs, monk-strap bluchers that buckle across the instep and wing tips are Southern shoe-ins.

The Midwest: Middle-of-the-country but only partially middle-of-the-road collegians in the Central States combine a respect for the traditional with a fashion flair that often belies the region's outdated Main Street image. Winter snow and sub-zero temperatures may occasionally force some far-out garb into hibernation; but when the weather suits, students suit up in everything from transplanted Ivy to double-breasted blazers worn with colorful extra-wide ties.

Suits: Three-button traditional, with or without vest, finds acceptance on most campuses, though this conservative approach may put you in a class with the Dow recruiter at Antioch and other Midwestern outposts of individuality and OM. Patterns range from stripes and herringbones to outsized windowpanes and glen plaids. Double-breasted shaped suits with wider lapels also continue to grow in popularity.

Sports jackets: Dick Dana, a senior at the University of Wisconsin, pretty well sums up the Midwestern scene by pointing out that students in Madison "sometimes wear bell-bottoms and Edwardian-influenced sports jackets on dressier occasions, along with dark-toned shirts with high collars and wide ties. Single- and double-breasted blazers, too, are often seen with a turtleneck sweater." On all Midwestern campuses, corduroy coats are popular, as they've been for past decades; but the pipe-smoking literary type will look more up to date sporting a full-belted tweed Norfolk jacket.

Slacks: Ring in the bell-bottoms; even on relatively stodgy campuses, 20 to 30 percent of the male populace is swinging to the wide, wide cuff, with the trend pointing toward more of the same. Solid favorites include permanent-press poplins and denims, as well as plaids and assorted (often multicolor) vertical-striped styles. Cords also are popular during early fall, and an occasional pair of leather slacks is seen—often extending over cowboy boots—at football games on chilly weekends.

Shirts: The decline and fall of the buttondown has finally reached Midwestern campuses, and long-pointed and medium-spread collars—worn with an appropriate shaped suit or sports jacket— now are the order of the day and evening. Look for wide-tracked stripes and deep-toned solid shades in rich blues and bright orange. You'll also find that a number of short-sleeved pullover golf shirts will come in handy when engaging in touch-football scrimmages on a sunny fall afternoon.

Sweaters: Polished-wool turtlenecks, Shetland and cashmere V-necks, mohair crews and cable-stitch cardigans are all top-drawer choices. Specific styles vary from campus to campus, so you'd be wise to keep your eyes open for local trends when doing your shopping. You also might try some of the new synthetic blends in fabrics, if you've been a strictly woolly thinker in the past.

Outerwear: This year, Midwestern collegians are hell-bent for rough-and-ready outercoats in polished leather. Fleece-lined three-quarter-length styles are the foremost favorites, with waist-length World War Two aviator jackets coming in a close second. Both lined and unlined polished-leather vests are being worn—often over a heavy wool plaid lumberjack shirt that's tucked into a pair of bell-bottomed Levis and topped with a cowboy hat. On occasions when a suit and tie are called for, a maxi-length double-breasted polished-leather greatcoat will separate the style-wise undergrad from his conservative-minded peers.

Shoes: Sandals and sneakers are favored early in the fall and again in the (concluded on page 276)Back to Campus(continued from page 172) spring, while cowboy boots and jodhpurs set the pace for winter footwear. Classic wing-tip brogues and monk-strap bluchers remain eminently suitable for dressy occasions, no matter what the season.

The Southwest: Students in this section of the country boast an eclectic approach to clothes; many combine Ivy and avant-garde duds with Western wearables, thus creating a fashion image that is strictly Southwestern and refreshingly original. Tim Kelleher, a junior at SMU, comments, "This school is really split into two clothing factions—the ultraconservatives, who think only in terms of Ivy, and the fashion liberals, who welcome style changes and are quick to try something new if it turns them on."

Suits: On most campuses, undergrads don dark suits (make it a three-piece one) for any number of occasions, including fraternity smokers and Saturday-night sorority dances. Depending on how well rounded your suit wardrobe is, you'd also be wise to have on hand a double-breasted six- or eight-button style that features extra-wide peaked lapels, higher armholes and flared-leg trousers.

Sports jackets: Like every other campus area in the country, the Southwest has been—and still is—going to blazers, in shades from navy blue and bottle green to camel's hair. However, if your blazer collection is both colorful and complete, put your money on a tartan or blanket-plaid shaped sports jacket in a medium- to heavyweight fabric.

Slacks: Southwesterners are notoriously adventuresome when it comes to slacks; one day they'll don a pair of low-slung faded-blue Levis and the next they're sporting the latest look in wide-legged, wide-cuffed Donegal tweeds worn with a pair of heavy brogues or cowboy boots. For this reason, you'll want to round out your slacks wardrobe with a number of pairs of pants in a wide variety of cuts, colors and fabrics, including multihued corduroy bell-bottoms and trim poplins and denims.

Shirts: From Baylor and SMU to tony Tulane, undergrads are supplementing their basic oxford buttondown collection with broad-striped and small-checked dress shirts that offer medium-spread or long-pointed collars—under which is often knotted a broad-striped or polka-dotted tie. While students in other sections of the country, such as the East, occasionally wear billowy-sleeved Edwardian shirts, with and without ruffles, Southwesterners prefer the lean, lanky look of the cowboy and wear trimly tailored styles that taper from the shoulders.

Sweaters: Student individuality really runs rampant when it comes to the sweater scene. Early in the fall, when temperatures may drop at dusk, Shetland-wool or synthetic-blend crews, V-necks or cardigans bring an instant warming trend to otherwise chilly nights. Later in the year, mohair mock turtles, ribbed wool turtlenecks and brightly colored ski sweaters are often worn to class under a tweed sports jacket.

Outerwear: If you're heading to this area for the first time, you may be surprised to learn that the winter won't be one long sunny sojourn. When an occasional northern Hits, students immediately dive for cover and reappear bundled up in good-looking outercoats. The minimum requirements for keeping yourself warmly under wraps include a poplin windbreaker or fringed buckskin jacket, a mid-thigh-length outercoat with a synthetic-fur lining and at least one dressy overcoat—possibly a camel's-hair model or a double-breasted leather coat that extends to just below the knee.

Shoes: Cowboy boots, sneakers or loafers are often worn to class. Other good styles include a smooth-calf monk-strap model with brass buckle and high tongue, and classic wing-tip brogues.

The West Coast: Far West and occasionally far out, the on-campus wardrobes of shore-line statesmen from Alaska to Southern California and on out to Hawaii reflect the immense geographic differences of the area and the kind of individualism upon which this portion of the country was built. Yet, despite the vast variety of norms indigenous to this region, certain guideposts can be pointed out to aid wide-eyed newcomers—as well as the self-assured upperclassmen—in rounding out or refurbishing their collegiate clothing collections.

Suits: At wide-open multiversities such as Berkeley, two- and three-button single-breasted and six- and eight-button double-breasted shaped suits with high armholes, deep center vents and flared leg bottoms are favored over Ivy wear. However, farther north, at such outposts of sartorial traditionalism as the University of Alaska, well-tailored tweeds (the heavier the better) in a conservative single-breasted cut have the suit-fashion scene sewed up cold.

Sports jackets: On the Coast, both single- and double-breasted blazers abound, as do less conventional, more upbeat looks, including shaped eight-button sports jackets with an action back pleat and a deep center vent.

Slacks: Bell-bottoms in Donegal tweeds, wool worsteds, corduroys and rayon twills in bold plaids and stripes ring many West Coast matriculants' fashion chimes, but you'll also see narrow-legged faded-blue denims and skintight wheat jeans held up by a wide leather belt. When an ancient pair of Levis eventually wears out at the knees, Californians are quick to convert them into instant surfing shorts.

Shirts: Scott Leithead, a junior at the University of Hawaii, reports, "Here on the Islands, 1 buy aloha materials by the bolt and then have a tailor custom-make my shirts and ties with the fabric reversed. This means that the muted colors are on the outside and the gear immediately has the kind of faded, lived-in look that I like." Over in California, bold-colored buttondowns in broad stripes (worn with a silk scarf knotted at the side of the neck) are being donned by well-tanned members of the sun set. As the occasion dictates, pointed- or spread-collar dress shirts in such off-trail shades as lavender are coordinated with shaped suits and worn to off-campus parties. This latter look, incidentally, is an excellent barometer of just how far California fashions have come since those days, not long ago, when West Coast undergrads favored bleeding madras for virtually every item of apparel.

Sweaters: Crews, turtles, mock turtles, V-necks and cardigans are all favored, with fabrics varying in warmth and weight, depending on the climate (weatherwise, not political) of your campus. Sleeveless V-necks in classic Argyle or unusual ribbed patterns may be worn with an open-necked long-sleeved shirt and a pair of wide-legged slacks.

Outerwear: Water-repellent windbreakers with a zip-in lining, natural-color trench coats and various cape styles are donned when the going is wet. Parka-type jackets also are popular; they vary from lightweight nylon in Southern California to rabbit-, seal- and wolfskin at the University of Alaska, where mid-winter temperatures can drop to 50 or 60 below zero. Polished-leather vests, aviator jackets and double-breasted maxicoats are worn—sometimes with a long scarf thrown over the shoulder. Army-Navy surplus uniforms, Mexican serapes, bush jackets, frock coats—virtually anything wearable that's offbeat will be favored by somebody out there. If this type of garb is your bag, more flower power to you.

Shoes: Models range from Mexican tire-soled sandals (favored in sunny Southern California) to sneakers, cowboy boots, loafers and wing tips. As we advise each year, you'd be wise to check out the campus you plan to attend and let the local styles determine your next shoe steps.

Fashion is never anything more than a reflection of current tastes, and no one will drop you from the crew team if you choose to stroll across the quad in madras Bermudas and a coonskin cap. Yet, there's a satisfaction in keeping up with clothing trends, since attire—like art, music and automobiles—is today more than ever a form of self-expression and an indication of your ability to keep in tune with the surrounding world. To see what the campus cognoscenti in your region will be wearing this term, take a look at the photographs on pages 165–169, where we've presented the fashions at such typical schools as Johns Hopkins, Oklahoma, Oregon State, Rollins and Antioch. Peace.